[Ill.u.s.tration: SURFACE ENRICHMENT OF SMALL PRIMARY Ma.s.sES IN PRECIOUS METALS

CONTOUR AND SURFACE ENRICHMENT APPLIED TO FOBS

MAINLY FULL SURFACE ENRICHMENT BASED UPON VERTICAL INCEPTIVE AXES

PLATE 54]

[Sidenote: Inceptive Axes for Pins]

Figures 368 to 372 show articles based upon a horizontal inceptive axis.

The stone, in accordance with formal balance, is in the geometric center from left to right. One notices the important fact that the surface enrichment must bring the stone and contour together in sympathetic relation and, at the same time, be related to both stone and contour.

This again brings out the meaning of _dependent_ surface enrichment. The contour enrichment is to be kept as simple as possible and the interest concentrated upon the surface enrichment. The _accentuation of both surface and contour enrichment_ in a single design marks the height of bad taste in design.

Rule 10b. _Contour and surface enrichment should never appear to compete for attention in the same design._

[Sidenote: Fobs]

Plate 54 shows flat planes, the service of which suggests vertical inceptive axes. Figure 380 is noted as an exception to this vertical inceptive axis as it possesses a vertical primary ma.s.s but with radial inceptive axes. The interesting manner by which the dynamic leaves of the outer border transmit their movement to the inner border, which in turn leads toward the point of concentration, is worthy of attention.

The points of concentration in other designs on this plate are all contained in the vertical inceptive axes.

[Sidenote: Rings]

Plate 55, at first thought, would seem to fall under the cla.s.sification of low cylindrical forms but when reference is made to Figure 385 it is readily seen that the ring has to be first developed as a flat plane, to be afterwards bent into the required form. Care should be taken to keep the design narrow enough to be visible when the ring is in position on the finger.

[Ill.u.s.tration: SURFACE ENRICHMENT OF SMALL PRIMARY Ma.s.sES IN PRECIOUS METAL

ENRICHMENT OF FLAT PLANES

RINGS

PLATE 55]

The long horizontal band of the ring supplies the motive for the horizontal inceptive axis as a common basis or starting point for a large number of designs. If the designer so desires, the vertical axis of the finger is authority for an elliptical stone to be placed with its major axis as a vertical line in harmony with the finger axis. In any instance the designer seeks to lead the eye from the horizontal portion of the ring (the finger band) toward the point of concentration (the stone), by means of surface enrichment. A long sloping contour curve helps, as a transition line in the boundary, to carry the attention from the stone to the finger band. A great number of devices are used to complete a similar transition in the surface enrichment. Figure 390a.

Too much piercing weakens the structure, and it is therefore to be avoided.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Courtesy of the Elverhoj Colony_

FIGURE 390a.--Rings]

Plate 56 suggests some vertical flat planes for pendants. While no definite rule can be stated for the location of the stone, from past experience, it is easier for beginners to place the stone on the vertical inceptive axis slightly above the geometric center of the primary ma.s.s. Figures 391 to 395. A design thus formed is less likely to appear heavy, although there is nothing arbitrary about the suggestion.

Rule 10c. _Parts of a design differing in function should differ in appearance but be co-ordinated with the entire design._

[Ill.u.s.tration: SURFACE ENRICHMENT OF SMALL PRIMARY Ma.s.sES IN PRECIOUS METAL

ENRICHMENT OF FLAT PLANES OF PENDANTS, CHAINS, LOCKETS

PLATE 56]

[Sidenote: Pendants and Chains]

In pendant design the surface enrichment generally carries the attention from the contour of the pendant to the stone, thus insuring unity at this point, while the contour lines often lead the attention from the pendant to the chain. The eye should move in unbroken dynamic movement from pendant to chain. The chain may have points of accent designed to vary the even distribution of the links. These accents are frequently composed of small stones with surface enrichment sympathetically designed in unity with pendant, chain, and stone. Figure 401 shows examples of this arrangement and similarly the need of a horizontal inceptive axis to harmonize with the length of the chain. These small accents are quite similar in design to bar pin motives.

Rule 10m. _Transparent and opaque stones or enamel should not be used in the same design._

[Sidenote: Relation of Stones to Metal]

For the designer's purposes we may consider two kinds of stones, the transparent and the opaque. These should not be mixed in one design. The most favorable stones are those forming contrasts of value or brilliancy with the metal as, for example, the amethyst, lapis lazuli, or New Zealand jade, with silver; or the dark topaz, or New Zealand jade, with gold. Lack of these contrasts gives dull, monotonous effects that fail to make the stone the point of concentration. Figure 467. These effects may be partially overcome by frosting, plating, or oxidizing the metal, thus forming stronger contrasts of value.

INSTRUCTION SHEET

Plates 52 and 57 are representative of the steps, processes, and problems for school use.

SUMMARY OF DESIGN STEPS

(_a_) Draw the primary ma.s.s.

(_b_) Locate the inceptive axis in this primary ma.s.s with its direction determined by the ultimate use or position of the primary ma.s.s and its general shape.

(_c_) Locate zone of enrichment.

(_d_) Locate point of concentration in the zone of enrichment and in the inceptive axis.

(_e_) Design simple contour enrichment.

(_f_) Design leading lines in sympathy with the contour and leading toward the point of concentration.

(_g_) Elaborate the leading lines in sympathy with the material, the type of enrichment, the contours, and the inceptive axis.

(_h_) Render in the technical manner suggested by Plate 52, dimension the primary ma.s.s, and otherwise prepare the drawing for shop use.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Courtesy of the Elverhoj Colony_

FIGURE 401a.--Pendants]

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Courtesy of the Elverhoj Colony_

FIGURE 402.--Pendants]

SUGGESTED PROBLEM

Design a built-up ring using an elliptical cabochon cut stone as the point of concentration. The inceptive axis is vertical.

SUMMARY OF RULES

SMALL FLAT PLANES