1. Bring a medium saucepan of salted water to a boil. Meanwhile, fill a second pot with ice water. Add the peas to the boiling water and cook until just tender, about 1 minute. Drain and plunge them into the ice bath to cool. Drain and set aside. Bring a medium saucepan of salted water to a boil. Meanwhile, fill a second pot with ice water. Add the peas to the boiling water and cook until just tender, about 1 minute. Drain and plunge them into the ice bath to cool. Drain and set aside.

2. Melt 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter in a small saute pan over medium heat. Add the leeks, season with salt and pepper, and cook until tender, about 8 minutes. Add the peas and chicken stock and simmer for 2 minutes. Puree the mixture in a food processor or blender. Strain through a fine sieve and set aside. Melt 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter in a small saute pan over medium heat. Add the leeks, season with salt and pepper, and cook until tender, about 8 minutes. Add the peas and chicken stock and simmer for 2 minutes. Puree the mixture in a food processor or blender. Strain through a fine sieve and set aside.

3. Grind the pistachios in two batches: Put Grind the pistachios in two batches: Put cup of the nuts in a blender or food processor and pulse until they form a powder. Watch closely-if you process them too long, they will become a paste. Transfer to a small saucepan and repeat with the second batch. cup of the nuts in a blender or food processor and pulse until they form a powder. Watch closely-if you process them too long, they will become a paste. Transfer to a small saucepan and repeat with the second batch.

4. Stir the cream into the pistachios and simmer over low heat for 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper. Keep warm. Stir the cream into the pistachios and simmer over low heat for 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper. Keep warm.

5. Melt the remaining 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter in a large saute pan over high heat. Add the radicchio, season with salt and pepper, and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Melt the remaining 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter in a large saute pan over high heat. Add the radicchio, season with salt and pepper, and cook until tender, about 5 minutes.

6. Ladle the pea soup into warm bowls. Swirl some of the warm pistachio cream into each portion, top with the radicchio, and serve immediately. Ladle the pea soup into warm bowls. Swirl some of the warm pistachio cream into each portion, top with the radicchio, and serve immediately.

Fresh Tomato Soup with Seared Eggplant Sandwiches This dish shows how even old standbys can sometimes be reworked so they become vivid and fresh again. Tomato soup and old-fashioned eggplant Parmesan are too predictable. But an open-faced sandwich of eggplant slices with pesto and mozzarella-that would get me to sit up and pay attention. And what if we serve it in a rich tomato broth jazzed up with some garlic and onions? The soup tastes wonderful and the black stripe of eggplant against the brilliant red soup attracts the eye. Where did this dish come from? Not any one place, but bits and pieces of the puzzle are a.s.sembled from all over Italy. old standbys can sometimes be reworked so they become vivid and fresh again. Tomato soup and old-fashioned eggplant Parmesan are too predictable. But an open-faced sandwich of eggplant slices with pesto and mozzarella-that would get me to sit up and pay attention. And what if we serve it in a rich tomato broth jazzed up with some garlic and onions? The soup tastes wonderful and the black stripe of eggplant against the brilliant red soup attracts the eye. Where did this dish come from? Not any one place, but bits and pieces of the puzzle are a.s.sembled from all over Italy.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS.

About cup extra virgin olive oil 2 medium onions, chopped into -inch dice 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 pounds ripe plum tomatoes, coa.r.s.ely chopped 1 teaspoon sugar 1 beautiful eggplant (about 10 ounces), sliced inch thick into 8 slices 2 cups water cup chopped fresh basil, plus 4 leaves for garnish cup Pesto (page 44) Four -inch-thick slices fresh mozzarella (about 2 ounces) Four -inch-thick slices rustic bread, about the same size as the eggplant slices

1. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large soup pot over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic, season with salt and pepper, and cook until tender, 7 to 8 minutes. Add the tomatoes and sugar, lower the heat, and cook for 25 minutes. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large soup pot over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic, season with salt and pepper, and cook until tender, 7 to 8 minutes. Add the tomatoes and sugar, lower the heat, and cook for 25 minutes.

2. While the tomatoes are cooking, season 8 eggplant slices with salt and pepper. (If you have more than 8 slices, set the remainder aside for another use or discard.) Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the eggplant slices and sear on each side until golden brown and cooked through. Remove from the heat and let cool. While the tomatoes are cooking, season 8 eggplant slices with salt and pepper. (If you have more than 8 slices, set the remainder aside for another use or discard.) Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the eggplant slices and sear on each side until golden brown and cooked through. Remove from the heat and let cool.

3. Add the water to the tomatoes and bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes. Puree in a blender and strain through a fine sieve. Return the tomato soup to the pot, add the chopped basil, and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the water to the tomatoes and bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes. Puree in a blender and strain through a fine sieve. Return the tomato soup to the pot, add the chopped basil, and simmer for 5 minutes.

4. Preheat the oven to 375F. Preheat the oven to 375F.

5. Spread the eggplant slices with the pesto. Put a slice of mozzarella on 4 of the slices. Top with the remaining 4 eggplant slices, pesto side down, to make "sandwiches." Spread the eggplant slices with the pesto. Put a slice of mozzarella on 4 of the slices. Top with the remaining 4 eggplant slices, pesto side down, to make "sandwiches."

6. Brush the bread with about 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and place on a small baking sheet. Toast in the oven until golden brown. Top each slice with an eggplant sandwich and continue heating until the cheese begins to melt. Brush the bread with about 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and place on a small baking sheet. Toast in the oven until golden brown. Top each slice with an eggplant sandwich and continue heating until the cheese begins to melt.

7. While the sandwiches are heating, reheat the tomato broth. While the sandwiches are heating, reheat the tomato broth.

8. Place an eggplant sandwich in the bottom of each warm bowl. Pour the tomato broth around the sandwiches. Drizzle with olive oil, garnish with the basil leaves, and serve immediately. Place an eggplant sandwich in the bottom of each warm bowl. Pour the tomato broth around the sandwiches. Drizzle with olive oil, garnish with the basil leaves, and serve immediately.

Pesto Although the Fresh Tomato Soup recipe calls for only cup of pesto, it hardly seems worth the effort to make less than a cup. The remainder always disappears into sandwiches, crostini, or pasta within a few days. Toward the end of basil season, I make a double batch without the cheese and freeze it in plastic containers the size of baby food jars, topping each portion with a light covering of olive oil; it will keep for 3 months frozen. Allow it to thaw in the refrigerator, then stir in the cheese. recipe calls for only cup of pesto, it hardly seems worth the effort to make less than a cup. The remainder always disappears into sandwiches, crostini, or pasta within a few days. Toward the end of basil season, I make a double batch without the cheese and freeze it in plastic containers the size of baby food jars, topping each portion with a light covering of olive oil; it will keep for 3 months frozen. Allow it to thaw in the refrigerator, then stir in the cheese.

MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP.

2 cups lightly packed basil leaves cup extra virgin olive oil 2 garlic cloves, minced and then mashed with a pinch of salt to a paste cup pine nuts, toasted cup freshly grated Parmesan 2 tablespoons freshly grated Pecorino Romano Kosher salt

1. Put the basil leaves in a food processor. With the motor running, add the oil in a thin steady stream and process until the basil is finely chopped, about 1 minute. Add the garlic and pine nuts and process for another 20 seconds, or until the pine nuts are finely chopped but not a paste. Put the basil leaves in a food processor. With the motor running, add the oil in a thin steady stream and process until the basil is finely chopped, about 1 minute. Add the garlic and pine nuts and process for another 20 seconds, or until the pine nuts are finely chopped but not a paste.

2. Transfer the pesto to a bowl. Stir in the cheeses. Taste and season with salt as necessary. Transfer the pesto to a bowl. Stir in the cheeses. Taste and season with salt as necessary.

Summer Squash and Onion Soup with Toasted Almonds Quite a few Junes and Julys had to pa.s.s before I finally figured out that the key to enjoying summer squash is to move it from main character to supporting role in a dish. The flavor of summer squash is too fragile to carry the load when the whole show rests on its shoulders. But in a light soup, with some complementary ingredients, summer squash shines. Finely diced, the squash adds color, texture, and a mild but distinctly summery flavor to chicken stock. Ginger and savory (or thyme) enhance its flavor rather than cover it up. Sweet onions, sherry, and almonds (a Spanish combination) contribute depth without overwhelming it. The broken angel hair pasta cooks quickly and adds substance before the freshness of the vegetables simmers away. Julys had to pa.s.s before I finally figured out that the key to enjoying summer squash is to move it from main character to supporting role in a dish. The flavor of summer squash is too fragile to carry the load when the whole show rests on its shoulders. But in a light soup, with some complementary ingredients, summer squash shines. Finely diced, the squash adds color, texture, and a mild but distinctly summery flavor to chicken stock. Ginger and savory (or thyme) enhance its flavor rather than cover it up. Sweet onions, sherry, and almonds (a Spanish combination) contribute depth without overwhelming it. The broken angel hair pasta cooks quickly and adds substance before the freshness of the vegetables simmers away.

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS.

2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 4 medium sweet onions (Vidalia or Walla Walla, for example), thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper cup dry sherry 6 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth 2 ounces angel hair pasta, broken into 2-inch lengths 2 pounds mixed summer squashes (zucchini, yellow summer, and pattypan are all good choices), scrubbed and chopped into -inch dice 1 tablespoon chopped fresh savory or thyme cup sliced almonds, toasted cup freshly grated Parmesan

1. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the onions, garlic, and ginger, season with salt and pepper, and cook until golden, about 20 minutes. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the onions, garlic, and ginger, season with salt and pepper, and cook until golden, about 20 minutes.

2. Add the sherry and reduce by half, only a minute or two. Add the chicken stock, pasta, and squash. Bring to a boil and cook until the pasta and squash are just cooked, about Add the sherry and reduce by half, only a minute or two. Add the chicken stock, pasta, and squash. Bring to a boil and cook until the pasta and squash are just cooked, about 3 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

3. Add the savory and ladle the soup into warm bowls. Sprinkle with the almonds and cheese and serve immediately. Add the savory and ladle the soup into warm bowls. Sprinkle with the almonds and cheese and serve immediately.

Clam and White Bean Soup with Fennel, Anchovy, and Lemon This satisfying soup is another instance of a European cla.s.sic crashing into the New England seacoast and ending up better for the experience. The dish began life as an Italian bean soup loaded with fennel. But I already loved steaming fresh Wellfleet clams with fennel, and it was only a matter of time before the clams and beans were introduced. The beans lend the soup a luscious quality that recalls a cream chowder, but in this case it's without either cream or pork fat. instance of a European cla.s.sic crashing into the New England seacoast and ending up better for the experience. The dish began life as an Italian bean soup loaded with fennel. But I already loved steaming fresh Wellfleet clams with fennel, and it was only a matter of time before the clams and beans were introduced. The beans lend the soup a luscious quality that recalls a cream chowder, but in this case it's without either cream or pork fat.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS.

cup dried medium white beans (navy or cannellini), picked over for stones and broken beans, and rinsed cup extra virgin olive oil 1 medium white onion, chopped into -inch dice 1 small carrot, chopped into -inch dice celery stalk, chopped into -inch dice 1 fennel bulb, trimmed of stalks and tough outer layers, cut in half lengthwise, cored, and chopped into -inch dice 6 garlic cloves, chopped 1 teaspoon fennel seeds 4 bay leaves 3 cups Fish Stock (page 33) or 2 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) plus 1 cup bottled clam juice 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.

2 anchovies, rinsed and finely chopped 1 teaspoon minced lemon zest 40 littleneck clams (3 to 4 pounds), scrubbed 1 cup dry white wine cup chopped fresh basil

1. Put the beans in a medium saucepan, cover with 2 inches of water, and bring to a boil, then turn off the heat. Let sit uncovered for 1 hour. Drain. Put the beans in a medium saucepan, cover with 2 inches of water, and bring to a boil, then turn off the heat. Let sit uncovered for 1 hour. Drain.

2. Heat cup of the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, celery, and fennel, and cook until tender and beginning to brown, about 8 minutes. Add two-thirds of the garlic, the fennel seeds and bay leaves, and cook 2 minutes. Heat cup of the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, celery, and fennel, and cook until tender and beginning to brown, about 8 minutes. Add two-thirds of the garlic, the fennel seeds and bay leaves, and cook 2 minutes.

3. Add the drained beans, stir well, and then add water to cover by 2 inches. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook for 1 hour. Add the drained beans, stir well, and then add water to cover by 2 inches. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook for 1 hour.

4. Add the fish stock and continue cooking until the beans are tender, about 30 minutes. The mixture should still be quite soupy by the time the beans are done; if not, add more water as necessary. Stir in the thyme and season with salt and pepper. Keep warm below a simmer. Add the fish stock and continue cooking until the beans are tender, about 30 minutes. The mixture should still be quite soupy by the time the beans are done; if not, add more water as necessary. Stir in the thyme and season with salt and pepper. Keep warm below a simmer.

5. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the remaining garlic and cook for 3 minutes. Add the anchovies, lemon zest, clams, and white wine, cover, and cook until the clams have opened, about 5 minutes. Discard any clams that don't open. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the remaining garlic and cook for 3 minutes. Add the anchovies, lemon zest, clams, and white wine, cover, and cook until the clams have opened, about 5 minutes. Discard any clams that don't open.

6. Add the clams and the steaming liquid to the beans and stir in the basil. Taste and add salt and pepper if necessary. Ladle into warm bowls, drizzle with the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, and serve immediately. Add the clams and the steaming liquid to the beans and stir in the basil. Taste and add salt and pepper if necessary. Ladle into warm bowls, drizzle with the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, and serve immediately.

Lobster, Corn, and Smoked Fish Chowder Every home cook needs the first-course equivalent of a little black dress-convenient and provocative at the same time. This is a rich, astonishingly quick appetizer soup that leaves you wanting more. The cla.s.sic chowder trio of seafood, salt pork, and milk metamorphoses into chunks of lobster and corn kernels suspended in an aromatic base of smoked trout and cream. Using homemade lobster or fish stock gives it a depth of flavor unusual in a soup that cooks so briefly. The ingredients shouldn't come together until the last moment, when they're heated for just a few minutes, so don't a.s.semble the chowder until you're ready to serve it. first-course equivalent of a little black dress-convenient and provocative at the same time. This is a rich, astonishingly quick appetizer soup that leaves you wanting more. The cla.s.sic chowder trio of seafood, salt pork, and milk metamorphoses into chunks of lobster and corn kernels suspended in an aromatic base of smoked trout and cream. Using homemade lobster or fish stock gives it a depth of flavor unusual in a soup that cooks so briefly. The ingredients shouldn't come together until the last moment, when they're heated for just a few minutes, so don't a.s.semble the chowder until you're ready to serve it.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS.

Kosher salt One 1-pound lobster (or pound freshly cooked lobster meat) 1 tablespoon unsalted b.u.t.ter 2 ears corn, husked and kernels stripped off with a sharp knife (about 1 cups) 2 shallots, finely diced 1 garlic clove, minced 2 cups light cream 2 cups Lobster Stock (page 34) or Fish Stock (page 33) or 1 cup clam juice plus 1 cup water 2 ounces smoked trout, skin and any bones removed, broken into small pieces Freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives for garnish

1. If you're using a live lobster, set a steaming rack in a large pot big enough to hold the lobster. The rack should sit at least 2 inches off the bottom of the pot (support it on ramekins if necessary). Add 1 inch of salted water to the pot and bring to a boil. Set the lobster on the rack, cover, and steam for 10 minutes. Let cool. If you're using a live lobster, set a steaming rack in a large pot big enough to hold the lobster. The rack should sit at least 2 inches off the bottom of the pot (support it on ramekins if necessary). Add 1 inch of salted water to the pot and bring to a boil. Set the lobster on the rack, cover, and steam for 10 minutes. Let cool.

2. When the lobster is cool enough to handle, crack open the sh.e.l.l and remove the meat from the tail and claws. Cut the meat into -inch pieces. Cover and refrigerate. When the lobster is cool enough to handle, crack open the sh.e.l.l and remove the meat from the tail and claws. Cut the meat into -inch pieces. Cover and refrigerate.

3. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the corn and cook until it starts to soften, about 2 minutes. Add the shallots and garlic and cook for 3 more minutes until aromatic. Add the cream and lobster stock and heat through. Add the lobster and smoked trout and heat until warmed through. Season with salt and pepper. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the corn and cook until it starts to soften, about 2 minutes. Add the shallots and garlic and cook for 3 more minutes until aromatic. Add the cream and lobster stock and heat through. Add the lobster and smoked trout and heat until warmed through. Season with salt and pepper.

4. Ladle the chowder into warm bowls, sprinkle with the chopped chives, and serve. Ladle the chowder into warm bowls, sprinkle with the chopped chives, and serve.

Stilton and Watercress Soup Too many cheese soups are weighty, gloppy affairs. This recipe produces a lighter soup with a smooth, creamy body infused with the spectacular flavor of Stilton cheese. Stilton's unique taste easily justifies its position as England's only name-protected cheese, so don't make the mistake of subst.i.tuting any old blue cheese for the genuine article. weighty, gloppy affairs. This recipe produces a lighter soup with a smooth, creamy body infused with the spectacular flavor of Stilton cheese. Stilton's unique taste easily justifies its position as England's only name-protected cheese, so don't make the mistake of subst.i.tuting any old blue cheese for the genuine article.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS.

2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 2 medium leeks, white part only, trimmed of roots and tough outer leaves, thinly sliced crosswise, and swirled vigorously in a bowl of cold water to remove any grit Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 baking potatoes, peeled, cut into quarters, and placed in a bowl with water to cover 4 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth 2 bunches watercress, tough stems removed, washed and coa.r.s.ely chopped 1 cup heavy cream 3 ounces Stilton (If Stilton is unavailable, subst.i.tute French Fourme d'Ambert or Italian Gorgonzola naturale, naturale, also called "aged" Gorgonzola-not also called "aged" Gorgonzola-not dolce, dolce, or "sweet, " Gorgonzola) or "sweet, " Gorgonzola)

GARNISHES (OPTIONAL).

12 very thin slices peeled and cored apple (keep covered with lightly salted water) 4 to 6 small sprigs watercress, large stems removed 2 to 3 teaspoons chopped walnuts

1. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add the leeks, season with salt and pepper, and cook until tender, about 8 minutes. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add the leeks, season with salt and pepper, and cook until tender, about 8 minutes.

2. Remove the potatoes from the water and add them to the saucepan. Add the chicken stock, season with salt, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer until the potatoes are fork-tender, about 20 minutes. Add the watercress and simmer until it's tender but still green, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the potatoes from the water and add them to the saucepan. Add the chicken stock, season with salt, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer until the potatoes are fork-tender, about 20 minutes. Add the watercress and simmer until it's tender but still green, 3 to 4 minutes.

3. Carefully puree the soup in a food processor. Pour the puree through a coa.r.s.e strainer into a clean pan. Heat the soup over medium heat until hot. Add the cream and Stilton, stirring constantly until the cheese has melted. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Carefully puree the soup in a food processor. Pour the puree through a coa.r.s.e strainer into a clean pan. Heat the soup over medium heat until hot. Add the cream and Stilton, stirring constantly until the cheese has melted. Taste and adjust the seasonings.

4. Ladle the soup into warm bowls. If using the garnishes, float a few slices of apple and a sprig of watercress atop each portion. Sprinkle with the chopped walnuts, and serve immediately. Ladle the soup into warm bowls. If using the garnishes, float a few slices of apple and a sprig of watercress atop each portion. Sprinkle with the chopped walnuts, and serve immediately.

Mussel Soup over Polenta with Saffron, Tomatoes, and Garlic Mussels are the harried cook's friend. The simple process of steaming them with white wine, garlic, and a few herbs produces a broth so intensely flavorful that you can just adjust the seasonings and call it a day-with a great soup. If saffron and tomatoes are on hand, you have the makings of one of the Mediterranean's storied flavor combinations, and the basis of dozens of different fish stews. Perhaps because this takes so little effort, and happens so quickly, slices of grilled rustic bread are more often a.s.sociated with this type of soup than polenta. Why make more work? But polenta adds a dimension that bread does not. Bread is a pleasant companion; polenta elevates the dish with its own flavor and texture. Mussels are extremely perishable and should be eaten within a day of cooking, but the exquisite broth will last for a couple of days if refrigerated. friend. The simple process of steaming them with white wine, garlic, and a few herbs produces a broth so intensely flavorful that you can just adjust the seasonings and call it a day-with a great soup. If saffron and tomatoes are on hand, you have the makings of one of the Mediterranean's storied flavor combinations, and the basis of dozens of different fish stews. Perhaps because this takes so little effort, and happens so quickly, slices of grilled rustic bread are more often a.s.sociated with this type of soup than polenta. Why make more work? But polenta adds a dimension that bread does not. Bread is a pleasant companion; polenta elevates the dish with its own flavor and texture. Mussels are extremely perishable and should be eaten within a day of cooking, but the exquisite broth will last for a couple of days if refrigerated.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS.

POLENTA.

2 cups water Kosher salt cup coa.r.s.ely ground cornmeal teaspoon hot red pepper flakes 2 tablespoons freshly grated Pecorino Romano

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

SOUP.

cup extra virgin olive oil 1 large red onion, thinly sliced 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced Kosher salt Pinch of saffron teaspoon hot red pepper flakes 48 mussels, scrubbed and debearded 6 ripe plum tomatoes, peeled (see page 55), seeded, and chopped into -inch dice 1 cup dry white wine 3 cups Fish Stock (page 33) or 2 cups Chicken Stock (page 31), plus 1 cup bottled clam juice cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley Freshly ground black pepper

1. Bring the water to a boil in a medium heavy saucepan over high heat. Add Bring the water to a boil in a medium heavy saucepan over high heat. Add teaspoon salt, then add the polenta in a slow, steady stream through your fingers, whisking constantly so it doesn't clump up. If you get any lumps, mash them against the side of the pot with a wooden spoon and keep stirring. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook, stirring frequently, until the polenta is thick and shiny and begins to pull away from the sides of the pan, about 30 minutes. Regulate the heat as necessary so the mixture doesn't boil over or cook too quickly. teaspoon salt, then add the polenta in a slow, steady stream through your fingers, whisking constantly so it doesn't clump up. If you get any lumps, mash them against the side of the pot with a wooden spoon and keep stirring. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook, stirring frequently, until the polenta is thick and shiny and begins to pull away from the sides of the pan, about 30 minutes. Regulate the heat as necessary so the mixture doesn't boil over or cook too quickly.

2. When the polenta is done, stir in the hot pepper flakes and cheese. Season with salt as necessary. Pour the polenta into a gla.s.s or ceramic loaf pan. Allow to cool uncovered in the refrigerator until chilled and firm, at least 30 minutes. When the polenta is done, stir in the hot pepper flakes and cheese. Season with salt as necessary. Pour the polenta into a gla.s.s or ceramic loaf pan. Allow to cool uncovered in the refrigerator until chilled and firm, at least 30 minutes.

3. When the polenta is cold, cut it into 4 or 6 equal triangular portions, depending on how many you want to serve. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use. When the polenta is cold, cut it into 4 or 6 equal triangular portions, depending on how many you want to serve. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

4. Preheat the oven to 200F. Preheat the oven to 200F.

5. Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a medium saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the polenta, top side down, and sear until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Flip and cook on the second side until golden brown and heated through, about 3 minutes. Put the polenta into shallow ovenproof soup bowls and keep warm in the oven. Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a medium saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the polenta, top side down, and sear until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Flip and cook on the second side until golden brown and heated through, about 3 minutes. Put the polenta into shallow ovenproof soup bowls and keep warm in the oven.

6. Heat cup of olive oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic, season with salt, and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the saffron, red pepper flakes, mussels, and tomatoes, then add the wine, cover, and cook until the mussels open, 4 to 5 minutes. Divide the mussels among the soup bowls, discarding any mussels that haven't opened, and return to the oven. Heat cup of olive oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic, season with salt, and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the saffron, red pepper flakes, mussels, and tomatoes, then add the wine, cover, and cook until the mussels open, 4 to 5 minutes. Divide the mussels among the soup bowls, discarding any mussels that haven't opened, and return to the oven.

7. Add the fish stock to the saute pan and bring to a boil. Add the parsley and season with salt and pepper as necessary. Pour the soup over the mussels and polenta and serve immediately. Add the fish stock to the saute pan and bring to a boil. Add the parsley and season with salt and pepper as necessary. Pour the soup over the mussels and polenta and serve immediately.

Oliver's Chicken Stew I have a special fondness for have a special fondness for this recipe; I wrote it several months after our first child was born, while I was still the sous-chef at Hammersley's Bistro in Boston. I'd go to the market in the morning before work and buy a chicken, a bunch of leeks, a bunch of carrots, and a head of celery. They'd go into a pot with some lemon and tarragon and chicken stock and everything would cook together for forty-five minutes. Later, Ken, who worked at home, would strip the meat off the bones, reduce the stock, and return everything to the pot along with some pasta. The result is thicker and richer than ordinary chicken soup. Then he'd puree some of the stew for Oliver. The two of them had dinner for the next three days. this recipe; I wrote it several months after our first child was born, while I was still the sous-chef at Hammersley's Bistro in Boston. I'd go to the market in the morning before work and buy a chicken, a bunch of leeks, a bunch of carrots, and a head of celery. They'd go into a pot with some lemon and tarragon and chicken stock and everything would cook together for forty-five minutes. Later, Ken, who worked at home, would strip the meat off the bones, reduce the stock, and return everything to the pot along with some pasta. The result is thicker and richer than ordinary chicken soup. Then he'd puree some of the stew for Oliver. The two of them had dinner for the next three days.

Food writer Sheryl Julian published the recipe in the Boston Globe Boston Globe ten years ago and I suddenly found myself with a fan club. People stopped me in the street to tell me they'd made Oliver's Chicken Stew. For years, when I'd pa.s.s through the dining room to check on things, new clients would introduce themselves by a.s.suring me that they made my chicken stew. Once or twice a year someone still calls Rialto and says she's lost the recipe and could I please send her a copy. The ingredients are standard French chicken soup, but my own theory is that the recipe is successful because it's uncomplicated and it tricks people into making a rich chicken stock. Poaching the chicken and vegetables in stock makes it possible to remove the chicken before it overcooks, while the meat is still tasty. Reducing the poaching liquid intensifies the flavor, making a rich soup even more concentrated. ten years ago and I suddenly found myself with a fan club. People stopped me in the street to tell me they'd made Oliver's Chicken Stew. For years, when I'd pa.s.s through the dining room to check on things, new clients would introduce themselves by a.s.suring me that they made my chicken stew. Once or twice a year someone still calls Rialto and says she's lost the recipe and could I please send her a copy. The ingredients are standard French chicken soup, but my own theory is that the recipe is successful because it's uncomplicated and it tricks people into making a rich chicken stock. Poaching the chicken and vegetables in stock makes it possible to remove the chicken before it overcooks, while the meat is still tasty. Reducing the poaching liquid intensifies the flavor, making a rich soup even more concentrated.

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS.

CHICKEN STEW.

1 free-range chicken (about 3 pounds), washed 8 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth Kosher salt 5 medium carrots, peeled and sliced inch thick on an extreme diagonal 5 celery stalks, peeled and sliced inch thick on an extreme diagonal 4 medium leeks, white part only, trimmed of roots and tough outer leaves, sliced inch thick on an extreme diagonal, and swirled vigorously in a bowl of cold water to remove any grit Bouquet garni: 1 bay leaf plus a few sprigs parsley, tied together with kitchen twine 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme 4 garlic cloves, smashed Freshly ground black pepper cup stellini (tiny star pasta) 3 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, at room temperature 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice, or more to taste 1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon cup coa.r.s.ely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

GARNISH.

4 thick slices crusty Italian bread cup extra virgin olive oil cup freshly grated Parmesan