MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

1 cups chickpea flour 2 cups water 5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 extra-large eggs, separated, yolks lightly beaten 1 medium onion, thinly sliced 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 pint cherry tomatoes 3 anchovy fillets, rinsed and coa.r.s.ely chopped teaspoon dried oregano cup chopped fresh basil cup coa.r.s.ely chopped pitted Nicoise olives 2 tablespoons capers, rinsed cup freshly grated Parmesan 1. Mix the chickpea flour with the water, 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, 2 teaspoons salt, and 1 teaspoon pepper. Let sit for 1 hour. Mix the chickpea flour with the water, 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, 2 teaspoons salt, and 1 teaspoon pepper. Let sit for 1 hour.

2. Preheat the oven to 425F. Rub an 812-inch baking dish with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Preheat the oven to 425F. Rub an 812-inch baking dish with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil.

3. Beat the egg yolks into the batter. Whip the egg whites until they hold soft peaks and then fold into the batter. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake until it sets, 12 to 15 minutes. Let cool for 15 minutes. Beat the egg yolks into the batter. Whip the egg whites until they hold soft peaks and then fold into the batter. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake until it sets, 12 to 15 minutes. Let cool for 15 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large saute pan over high heat. Add the onions and cook until they start to brown, about 5 minutes. Be careful not to let them burn. Add the garlic and tomatoes and cook for 3 minutes. Add the anchovies, oregano, basil, olives, and capers, season with pepper, and cook for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat. Meanwhile, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large saute pan over high heat. Add the onions and cook until they start to brown, about 5 minutes. Be careful not to let them burn. Add the garlic and tomatoes and cook for 3 minutes. Add the anchovies, oregano, basil, olives, and capers, season with pepper, and cook for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat.

5. Preheat the broiler. Spread the onion mixture over the cooled panisse "crust, " sprinkle with the cheese, and place under the broiler until the top is brown, about 5 minutes. Serve hot or at room temperature. Let cool for 3 minutes if you want to serve it right away. Preheat the broiler. Spread the onion mixture over the cooled panisse "crust, " sprinkle with the cheese, and place under the broiler until the top is brown, about 5 minutes. Serve hot or at room temperature. Let cool for 3 minutes if you want to serve it right away.

Seafood According to the National Fisheries Inst.i.tute, Americans consume a paltry 15 pounds of seafood a year (compared to 220 pounds of meat and poultry) and the whale's share of that-about two-thirds-is prepared in restaurants. Subtract the 3 pounds of canned tuna from the approximately 5 pounds of seafood each of us consumes at home, and there's hardly enough left over for a decent Friday night dinner of fish and chips. Inst.i.tute, Americans consume a paltry 15 pounds of seafood a year (compared to 220 pounds of meat and poultry) and the whale's share of that-about two-thirds-is prepared in restaurants. Subtract the 3 pounds of canned tuna from the approximately 5 pounds of seafood each of us consumes at home, and there's hardly enough left over for a decent Friday night dinner of fish and chips.

I suspect that these statistics conceal a far different story, a reality in which there is a vast majority of people who cook no seafood at all, and a small minority who do, and know they're on to a good thing. These are the people lining up at seafood counters in grocery stores and fishmongers to buy salmon fillets, or tuna steaks, even when those fillets cost roughly double the price of flank steak and fresh tuna's in the same league as filet mignon. These are the people who get excited when August rolls around, because they know the bluefish will be running. A very few of them actually buy squid and octopus, to the amazement of their friends, while again, the others only wonder, "What do you do with that?" None of these people is eating only 15 pounds of fish a year-they're eating a lot more. If you recognize yourself in these portraits, this chapter is for you.

Fish (I'm using the term interchangeably with "seafood") is often expensive and tolerates the smallest margin of error of any animal protein in how it's cooked. The first thing to understand about seafood is that the texture of any individual type of fish has a lot to say about the method and length of cooking time. Fish with st.u.r.dy flesh that holds together can be grilled, pan-seared, fried, or even braised. Thin-filleted white fish like sole demand to be fried. The more delicate the flesh, the lighter the flavor, and the greater the need for your attention. A few minutes of overcooking can turn that fifteen dollars worth of salmon into cat food.

Unlike meat and poultry, whose flavors can often be successfully enhanced (as with marinades) or blended with other ingredients (in long braising), seafood works best when its natural flavors are allowed to shine with minimal interference. I rarely use acidic marinades with fish, and when I do resort to a marinade, it's usually nothing more than a little oil flavored with fresh herbs. That's not to say that some fish can't stand up to spicy flavors, but the seasonings should always work in counterpoint with the flavor and texture, not overwhelm it. Even when I cook fish with other ingredients, as in the braised dishes or any of the fish stews, the flavors don't blend so much as complement each other.

Always buy bright, fresh seafood and try to cook it within a day of purchase, sooner if possible. When selecting seafood, it should appear moist, and freshly cut or filleted; cut seafood looks dull and blurry after a couple of days. When in doubt, ask to smell it; most fresh seafood has little aroma, except perhaps a slight brininess. Any other odor is a signal to pa.s.s.

Seared Tuna with Green Caper Sauce Is there a cuisine that doesn't have its own brilliant green sauce? There must be some deep-rooted universal appeal in the idea of pureeing fresh herbs or spring greens to make a condiment with a color as vivid as its taste. I always come back to this recipe because the anchovies, lemon, and tarragon steer the cart off the expected track of spinach flavor-and because it creates a vibrant green streak against the rosy center of a tuna steak. Serve this dish with Panisse with Tomatoes and Black Olives (page 176) on the side. doesn't have its own brilliant green sauce? There must be some deep-rooted universal appeal in the idea of pureeing fresh herbs or spring greens to make a condiment with a color as vivid as its taste. I always come back to this recipe because the anchovies, lemon, and tarragon steer the cart off the expected track of spinach flavor-and because it creates a vibrant green streak against the rosy center of a tuna steak. Serve this dish with Panisse with Tomatoes and Black Olives (page 176) on the side.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

SAUCE.

cup extra virgin olive oil 3 garlic cloves, minced Kosher salt 3 cups packed spinach leaves trimmed of stems, washed 1 cup flat-leaf parsley leaves 4 scallions, trimmed and sliced paper-thin 1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon 1 tablespoons capers, rinsed 6 anchovy fillets, rinsed and finely chopped Freshly ground black pepper 2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice TUNA.

Four 5-ounce tuna steaks, approximately 1 inches thick Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 teaspoons capers, rinsed 4 sprigs flat-leaf parsley 1. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil with the garlic in a small saute pan over medium heat until aromatic, about 2 minutes. Set aside. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil with the garlic in a small saute pan over medium heat until aromatic, about 2 minutes. Set aside.

2. Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil. Add the spinach, parsley leaves, and scallions and blanch for 2 minutes. Drain, reserving cup of the blanching water. Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil. Add the spinach, parsley leaves, and scallions and blanch for 2 minutes. Drain, reserving cup of the blanching water.

3. Put the warm spinach mixture in a blender with the garlic, tarragon, capers, anchovies, and the reserved blanching water. Puree until smooth and with a sauce consistency; add more water if necessary. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a small saucepan and keep warm. Put the warm spinach mixture in a blender with the garlic, tarragon, capers, anchovies, and the reserved blanching water. Puree until smooth and with a sauce consistency; add more water if necessary. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a small saucepan and keep warm.

4. Season the tuna with salt and pepper. Heat the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the tuna and cook for 3 to 4 minutes on each side, or until a crisp brown crust forms, for rare. If you like your tuna cooked further, reduce the heat to medium and cook for a minute or so longer on each side. Remove from the pan and let rest for 3 minutes before serving. Season the tuna with salt and pepper. Heat the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the tuna and cook for 3 to 4 minutes on each side, or until a crisp brown crust forms, for rare. If you like your tuna cooked further, reduce the heat to medium and cook for a minute or so longer on each side. Remove from the pan and let rest for 3 minutes before serving.

5. To serve, slice the tuna pieces in half across the grain, exposing the beautiful center, and arrange on four plates. Add the lemon juice to the sauce and pour next to the fish. (If you add the lemon juice earlier than just before serving, the sauce will turn olive green.) Sprinkle the tuna with the capers and garnish each plate with a sprig of parsley. To serve, slice the tuna pieces in half across the grain, exposing the beautiful center, and arrange on four plates. Add the lemon juice to the sauce and pour next to the fish. (If you add the lemon juice earlier than just before serving, the sauce will turn olive green.) Sprinkle the tuna with the capers and garnish each plate with a sprig of parsley.

Chilled Lobster with Potato-Blood Orange Salad and Lime In the summer, I run with the crowd when it comes to lobster-steamed or grilled, with lots of b.u.t.ter and lemon-but during the rest of the year I'm open to alternatives. A with the crowd when it comes to lobster-steamed or grilled, with lots of b.u.t.ter and lemon-but during the rest of the year I'm open to alternatives. A salade composee, salade composee, the French term for a cold salad plate in which several distinct elements are prepared separately then a.s.sembled for the finished dish, is a perfect technique for lobster. Lime vinaigrette lightly dresses the lobster without overwhelming it. The other ingredients maintain a complementary yet respectful distance. the French term for a cold salad plate in which several distinct elements are prepared separately then a.s.sembled for the finished dish, is a perfect technique for lobster. Lime vinaigrette lightly dresses the lobster without overwhelming it. The other ingredients maintain a complementary yet respectful distance.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

Kosher salt Two 1- to 1-pound lobsters (see page 181) 1 teaspoon minced shallots cup freshly squeezed lime juice teaspoon Dijon mustard cup plus 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil cup creme fraiche 1 teaspoon grated lime zest Freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons Pernod 2 tablespoons honey 2 blood oranges, skin and membrane removed, cut into segments over a bowl and stored in their own juice (use other sweet oranges if blood oranges are unavailable) pound fingerling or small Red Bliss potatoes, scrubbed 2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon 3 tablespoons chopped fresh chervil 2 tablespoons minced fresh chives 12 cherry tomatoes or other small sweet tomatoes, cut in half 4 small bunches small greens such as watercress or mache, washed and dried 1 lime, sliced into 4 wedges DO AHEAD: The recipe can be prepared a day ahead up through Step 4. If you're making this salad with the intention of having leftovers, don't dress what you won't serve. The recipe can be prepared a day ahead up through Step 4. If you're making this salad with the intention of having leftovers, don't dress what you won't serve.

1. Pour 1 inch of salted water into a large pot, invert a colander in the pot, and bring to a boil. Put the lobsters in the pot and cover tightly. Steam for 5 minutes, then open the pot carefully (steam is Pour 1 inch of salted water into a large pot, invert a colander in the pot, and bring to a boil. Put the lobsters in the pot and cover tightly. Steam for 5 minutes, then open the pot carefully (steam is hot) hot) and, using a pair of tongs, change the lobsters' position so they will cook evenly. Quickly replace the lid and steam for 5 more minutes. Remove the lobsters from the pot and allow to cool. and, using a pair of tongs, change the lobsters' position so they will cook evenly. Quickly replace the lid and steam for 5 more minutes. Remove the lobsters from the pot and allow to cool.

2. Separate the tail, claws, and knuckles from the body of each lobster. Save the bodies for lobster stock or discard. Remove the lobster meat from the sh.e.l.ls, trying to keep it in as large pieces as possible. (Sh.e.l.ls don't provide as much flavor for stock as lobster bodies, so I discard them.) Cut the sh.e.l.led tails in half lengthwise and remove the digestive tract, the dark vein-like structure. Cover and refrigerate the meat. Separate the tail, claws, and knuckles from the body of each lobster. Save the bodies for lobster stock or discard. Remove the lobster meat from the sh.e.l.ls, trying to keep it in as large pieces as possible. (Sh.e.l.ls don't provide as much flavor for stock as lobster bodies, so I discard them.) Cut the sh.e.l.led tails in half lengthwise and remove the digestive tract, the dark vein-like structure. Cover and refrigerate the meat.

3. To make the vinaigrette, whisk the shallots, 1 tablespoon of the lime juice, and the Dijon mustard together in a small bowl. Slowly add cup of the olive oil in a steady stream. Season with salt. To make the vinaigrette, whisk the shallots, 1 tablespoon of the lime juice, and the Dijon mustard together in a small bowl. Slowly add cup of the olive oil in a steady stream. Season with salt.

4. Mix the creme fraiche with the lime zest, 1 tablespoon of the lime juice, and the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate. Mix the creme fraiche with the lime zest, 1 tablespoon of the lime juice, and the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate.

5. Mix the Pernod with the honey and pour over the blood orange sections. Let sit for 30 minutes. Mix the Pernod with the honey and pour over the blood orange sections. Let sit for 30 minutes.

6. While the blood oranges are soaking, cut the potatoes into -inch-thick slices. Put the slices in a small saucepan and cover with cold water. Add 1 teaspoons salt per quart of water. Bring to a boil and simmer until the potatoes are just done, 4 to 5 minutes. Drain. Toss with 2 tablespoons of the lime vinaigrette and set aside to cool at room temperature. While the blood oranges are soaking, cut the potatoes into -inch-thick slices. Put the slices in a small saucepan and cover with cold water. Add 1 teaspoons salt per quart of water. Bring to a boil and simmer until the potatoes are just done, 4 to 5 minutes. Drain. Toss with 2 tablespoons of the lime vinaigrette and set aside to cool at room temperature.

7. Mix the chopped tarragon, chervil, and chives together. Mix the chopped tarragon, chervil, and chives together.

8. Right before serving, toss the lobster meat in a bowl with the remaining vinaigrette and 5 tablespoons of the herbs. Mix the potatoes with the remaining chopped herbs. Put 2 tablespoons of the creme fraiche in the center of each of four plates. Overlap the potato slices in a ring on the creme fraiche. Arrange the meat from half a lobster on top of each portion of potatoes-start with the knuckles, then the tail and then the claw (reserve the remaining vinaigrette in the bowl). Form a crescent of 6 tomato halves on one side of the lobster on each plate. Right before serving, toss the lobster meat in a bowl with the remaining vinaigrette and 5 tablespoons of the herbs. Mix the potatoes with the remaining chopped herbs. Put 2 tablespoons of the creme fraiche in the center of each of four plates. Overlap the potato slices in a ring on the creme fraiche. Arrange the meat from half a lobster on top of each portion of potatoes-start with the knuckles, then the tail and then the claw (reserve the remaining vinaigrette in the bowl). Form a crescent of 6 tomato halves on one side of the lobster on each plate.

9. Toss the watercress with the lime vinaigrette left in the lobster bowl. Place a bunch of dressed greens on each plate on the side of the lobster opposite the tomatoes. Distribute the orange segments around the edges of the plates and drizzle with any remaining syrup. Garnish each plate with a wedge of lime, and serve. Toss the watercress with the lime vinaigrette left in the lobster bowl. Place a bunch of dressed greens on each plate on the side of the lobster opposite the tomatoes. Distribute the orange segments around the edges of the plates and drizzle with any remaining syrup. Garnish each plate with a wedge of lime, and serve.

LOBSTER-HARD-Sh.e.l.l OR SOFT-Sh.e.l.l?I've suggested variability in the size of the lobsters in order to accommodate different pocketbooks and different times of the year when you might prepare this dish. If you're shopping in the late spring or fall, you'll find hard-sh.e.l.l lobsters are what's primarily available. In July, August, and September, molting season, soft-sh.e.l.l lobsters will dominate. January, February, and March see only hard-sh.e.l.ls. The meat of a recently molted lobster is particularly sweet to some people, but by comparison to a hard-sh.e.l.l lobster of the same weight, there seems to be quite a bit less of it. In order to accomplish the Houdini-like feat of shedding their sh.e.l.ls, lobsters shrink their bodies, especially their claws, through dehydration. A 1-pound hard-sh.e.l.l lobster will yield between 3 and 3 3 ounces of meat from the claws, knuckles, and tail; a soft-sh.e.l.l lobster of the same size will produce ounces of meat from the claws, knuckles, and tail; a soft-sh.e.l.l lobster of the same size will produce 2 2 to 2 ounces. During months when soft-sh.e.l.ls are primarily available, you will need to buy larger lobsters to get the same amount of meat you would from smaller hard-sh.e.l.ls. If you want to be sure you're getting a hard-sh.e.l.l lobster, ask to squeeze it. Soft-sh.e.l.ls have some give; they're flexible. Hard-sh.e.l.ls are rigid, and the lobster will feel heavier than other lobsters of similar appearance. to 2 ounces. During months when soft-sh.e.l.ls are primarily available, you will need to buy larger lobsters to get the same amount of meat you would from smaller hard-sh.e.l.ls. If you want to be sure you're getting a hard-sh.e.l.l lobster, ask to squeeze it. Soft-sh.e.l.ls have some give; they're flexible. Hard-sh.e.l.ls are rigid, and the lobster will feel heavier than other lobsters of similar appearance.

Spicy Mussel Salad with Saffron Mayonnaise, Black Olives, and Roasted Peppers This is a composed salad of cla.s.sic Spanish ingredients-mussels, saffron, and peppers handled in a slightly offbeat way. While all sh.e.l.lfish release juices into the cooking liquid as they steam, mussels are in a league of their own. The French reverently refer to their juice as mussel liquor. Cooking the steaming broth down to a glaze for the basis of a warm sauce is a standard technique, but this recipe is a little unusual in that the mussel glaze flavors a cold mayonnaise. With its intense flavor of mussels, the mayonnaise makes a nice olfactory bridge between the mussels and the roasted peppers. All of the major components of this dish-the roasted peppers, steamed mussels, and saffron mayonnaise can be prepared as much as 24 hours ahead of time and refrigerated. Prepare the chopped garnishes just before serving. of cla.s.sic Spanish ingredients-mussels, saffron, and peppers handled in a slightly offbeat way. While all sh.e.l.lfish release juices into the cooking liquid as they steam, mussels are in a league of their own. The French reverently refer to their juice as mussel liquor. Cooking the steaming broth down to a glaze for the basis of a warm sauce is a standard technique, but this recipe is a little unusual in that the mussel glaze flavors a cold mayonnaise. With its intense flavor of mussels, the mayonnaise makes a nice olfactory bridge between the mussels and the roasted peppers. All of the major components of this dish-the roasted peppers, steamed mussels, and saffron mayonnaise can be prepared as much as 24 hours ahead of time and refrigerated. Prepare the chopped garnishes just before serving.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 shallots, thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 serrano peppers, stemmed and thinly sliced (to make this a milder dish, remove the seeds from the peppers) Kosher salt 48 mussels, scrubbed and debearded Pinch of saffron cup dry white wine 1 extra-large egg yolk 1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice cup vegetable oil Freshly ground black pepper 3 large bell peppers-1 red, 1 yellow, and 1 green, roasted (see page 99), peeled, stemmed, seeded, and cut into quarters cup peeled, seeded, and diced (-inch) cuc.u.mber cup diced (-inch) red onion cup chopped oil-cured black olives cup flat-leaf parsley leaves 1 tablespoon chili oil or extra virgin olive oil 1 lemon, halved 1. Heat the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the shallots, garlic, and serrano peppers, season with salt, and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the mussels, saffron, and white wine. Cover and steam just until the mussels have opened, about 5 minutes. Don't overcook, or the mussels will be tough. Remove from the heat. Heat the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the shallots, garlic, and serrano peppers, season with salt, and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the mussels, saffron, and white wine. Cover and steam just until the mussels have opened, about 5 minutes. Don't overcook, or the mussels will be tough. Remove from the heat.

2. Scoop the mussels out of the pan and spread them on a tray in a single layer to cool. (Do not discard the cooking juices.) When they are completely cooled, remove and discard the top sh.e.l.ls. Cover the mussels with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to serve. Scoop the mussels out of the pan and spread them on a tray in a single layer to cool. (Do not discard the cooking juices.) When they are completely cooled, remove and discard the top sh.e.l.ls. Cover the mussels with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to serve.

3. While the mussels are cooling, simmer the cooking juices (with the shallots, garlic, and serrano peppers) over medium-high heat until reduced to about 1 tablespoon of liquid. Transfer the reduction (with the shallots, etc.) to a bowl. Use a rubber spatula to get all the juices if necessary. While the mussels are cooling, simmer the cooking juices (with the shallots, garlic, and serrano peppers) over medium-high heat until reduced to about 1 tablespoon of liquid. Transfer the reduction (with the shallots, etc.) to a bowl. Use a rubber spatula to get all the juices if necessary.

4. To make the saffron mayonnaise, add the egg yolk and lemon juice to the mussel reduction and whisk until foamy. Whisk in the salad oil one drop at a time until an emulsion forms. Carefully whisk in the rest of the oil in a thin, steady stream. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. To make the saffron mayonnaise, add the egg yolk and lemon juice to the mussel reduction and whisk until foamy. Whisk in the salad oil one drop at a time until an emulsion forms. Carefully whisk in the rest of the oil in a thin, steady stream. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.

5. To serve, arrange one of each of the pepper quarters on each of four plates and season with salt and pepper. Distribute the mussels, in their half-sh.e.l.ls, in and around the peppers. Set a spoonful of mayonnaise next to the peppers. Sprinkle the plates with the cuc.u.mber, red onion, olives, and parsley leaves. Drizzle with the chili oil and a squeeze of lemon juice. To serve, arrange one of each of the pepper quarters on each of four plates and season with salt and pepper. Distribute the mussels, in their half-sh.e.l.ls, in and around the peppers. Set a spoonful of mayonnaise next to the peppers. Sprinkle the plates with the cuc.u.mber, red onion, olives, and parsley leaves. Drizzle with the chili oil and a squeeze of lemon juice.

Grilled Bluefish with Pomegranate Glaze and Cuc.u.mber-Yogurt Sauce So much to grill, so little time. Every August, just when I think it might be the summer when I might squeeze in everything I love to grill before Labor Day, the bluefish arrive and throw my backyard repertoire into chaos. Salmon and tuna may be available, but if someone offers me a fresh-caught bluefish, it's hard to resist. Slathered with pomegranate mola.s.ses, the bluefish tastes barbecued, if you can imagine barbecued fish with zither music playing in the background. As far as condiments go, a simple, cooling cuc.u.mber-yogurt sauce is absolutely essential, but if I have the time, I also make Skordalia (page 106) for the garlic lovers in the crowd. so little time. Every August, just when I think it might be the summer when I might squeeze in everything I love to grill before Labor Day, the bluefish arrive and throw my backyard repertoire into chaos. Salmon and tuna may be available, but if someone offers me a fresh-caught bluefish, it's hard to resist. Slathered with pomegranate mola.s.ses, the bluefish tastes barbecued, if you can imagine barbecued fish with zither music playing in the background. As far as condiments go, a simple, cooling cuc.u.mber-yogurt sauce is absolutely essential, but if I have the time, I also make Skordalia (page 106) for the garlic lovers in the crowd.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

MARINADE.

cup pomegranate mola.s.ses (available in specialty stores and groceries that stock Middle Eastern ingredients) 3 garlic cloves, chopped 1 small red onion, sliced as thin as possible 1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint 1 teaspoon crushed toasted coriander seeds 1 tablespoon grated orange zest

Four 6-ounce bluefish fillets, skin on, 1 to 1 inches thick

SAUCE.

cup vegetable oil 2 tablespoons pomegranate mola.s.ses for garnish cup pomegranate seeds for garnish 1. Mix all the marinade ingredients together in a bowl. Toss the bluefish in the marinade until evenly coated. Put the fish and any remaining marinade in a nonreactive container, cover, and refrigerate for 1 hour, turning once or twice. Mix all the marinade ingredients together in a bowl. Toss the bluefish in the marinade until evenly coated. Put the fish and any remaining marinade in a nonreactive container, cover, and refrigerate for 1 hour, turning once or twice.

2. Toss the cuc.u.mbers with salt and drain in a colander for 30 minutes. Toss the cuc.u.mbers with salt and drain in a colander for 30 minutes.

3. Pat the cuc.u.mbers dry to remove moisture and excess salt. Mix the cuc.u.mbers with the yogurt, red onion, herbs, and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper. Pat the cuc.u.mbers dry to remove moisture and excess salt. Mix the cuc.u.mbers with the yogurt, red onion, herbs, and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper.

4. Prepare a grill with both hot and medium zones (see page 265). A grill is hot when you can hold your hand near the grilling surface for no longer than a count of 2 before having to pull it away; it is medium when you can keep your hand near it for no longer than 4 seconds. The cooking times given are for a gas grill, with the lid closed; if using a wood or charcoal-burning grill, cook with the lid off. Make sure the grill grate is clean in order to minimize sticking. Prepare a grill with both hot and medium zones (see page 265). A grill is hot when you can hold your hand near the grilling surface for no longer than a count of 2 before having to pull it away; it is medium when you can keep your hand near it for no longer than 4 seconds. The cooking times given are for a gas grill, with the lid closed; if using a wood or charcoal-burning grill, cook with the lid off. Make sure the grill grate is clean in order to minimize sticking.

5. Season the bluefish with salt and pepper. Brush generously with the vegetable oil. Put the fish skin side down on the hottest part of the grill. Do not disturb the fillets until the surface is charred and a corner of a fillet releases from the grill when you carefully lift it with a spatula, after about 5 minutes. Flip the fillets and cook until opaque, another 4 to 5 minutes. Because the marinade has sugar in it, you need to keep a close eye out for burning. If it looks as though the surface is turning too dark too quickly, or burning, slide a spatula carefully under the fillets and finish cooking them on the medium section of the grill. Season the bluefish with salt and pepper. Brush generously with the vegetable oil. Put the fish skin side down on the hottest part of the grill. Do not disturb the fillets until the surface is charred and a corner of a fillet releases from the grill when you carefully lift it with a spatula, after about 5 minutes. Flip the fillets and cook until opaque, another 4 to 5 minutes. Because the marinade has sugar in it, you need to keep a close eye out for burning. If it looks as though the surface is turning too dark too quickly, or burning, slide a spatula carefully under the fillets and finish cooking them on the medium section of the grill.

6. To serve, put a fillet in the center of each of four plates. Put a spoonful of yogurt sauce next to each fillet. Drizzle the fish with the pomegranate mola.s.ses and sprinkle with the pomegranate seeds. Serve immediately. To serve, put a fillet in the center of each of four plates. Put a spoonful of yogurt sauce next to each fillet. Drizzle the fish with the pomegranate mola.s.ses and sprinkle with the pomegranate seeds. Serve immediately.

Grilled Tuna with Romesco Sauce Romesco is a Catalan sauce traditionally served with grilled fish, poultry, or vegetables. The basic recipe calls for roasted red peppers, garlic, almonds, vinegar, and olive oil, although I've seen variations that include tomatoes, bread, and hot peppers. I like the nuance that hazelnuts contribute. As a condiment for grilled food, especially tuna or shrimp, it is without equal. It's worth firing up your grill 15 or 20 minutes ahead of time to char the peppers for romesco. While the peppers cook, you can prepare the rest of the ingredients. Making the sauce itself is a snap-everything is just pulsed together in a food processor. traditionally served with grilled fish, poultry, or vegetables. The basic recipe calls for roasted red peppers, garlic, almonds, vinegar, and olive oil, although I've seen variations that include tomatoes, bread, and hot peppers. I like the nuance that hazelnuts contribute. As a condiment for grilled food, especially tuna or shrimp, it is without equal. It's worth firing up your grill 15 or 20 minutes ahead of time to char the peppers for romesco. While the peppers cook, you can prepare the rest of the ingredients. Making the sauce itself is a snap-everything is just pulsed together in a food processor.

When grilling tuna, make the fire as hot as possible. If using a gas grill, turn all the burners to high and allow it to heat with the lid down for 15 minutes. If you like your tuna rare (red in the center), be sure to buy fillets at least 1 inches thick to minimize the chance of overcooking. The cooking times given are for a gas grill, with the lid closed. If using a wood or charcoal grill, which will be hotter, cook with the lid off and subtract a minute from each of the times.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

SAUCE.

2 red peppers, roasted (see page 99), peeled, stemmed, and seeded 1 ancho pepper, soaked in warm water to cover until tender (about 30 minutes), drained, stemmed, and seeded 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped cup almonds, toasted (see page 16) 2 tablespoons hazelnuts, toasted (see page 16) cup pine nuts, toasted (see page 16) cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint cup extra virgin olive oil Kosher salt Pinch of hot red pepper flakes (optional)

TUNA.

Four 5-ounce tuna steaks, approximately 1 inches thick Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon paprika, preferably Spanish cup extra virgin olive oil

1. Combine all the romesco sauce ingredients except the salt and hot pepper flakes in a food processor and process to a coa.r.s.e puree. Season with salt to taste. Add the red pepper flakes, if desired. Combine all the romesco sauce ingredients except the salt and hot pepper flakes in a food processor and process to a coa.r.s.e puree. Season with salt to taste. Add the red pepper flakes, if desired.

2. Prepare a hot fire in a grill. A grill is hot when you can hold your hand near the grilling surface for no longer than a count of 2 before having to pull it away. Prepare a hot fire in a grill. A grill is hot when you can hold your hand near the grilling surface for no longer than a count of 2 before having to pull it away.

3. Season the tuna with salt, pepper, and the paprika. Brush with the oil. Grill on each side for 3 to 3 minutes for rare (red in the center), about a minute longer for medium-rare (a trace of red, but mostly pink), or until cooked to desired doneness. Check for doneness by cutting into the center with the tip of a sharp knife and judging the color. Tuna's transition from red to pink-with-some-red occurs quite quickly; also keep in mind that the tuna will continue cooking once it's off the grill, and that cooking time will also vary according to the thickness of the tuna steaks. Err on the side of underdoneness. It's a small matter to return a piece of tuna to the grill if it's too rare. However, the only thing to do with overcooked fish is to throw it away. Season the tuna with salt, pepper, and the paprika. Brush with the oil. Grill on each side for 3 to 3 minutes for rare (red in the center), about a minute longer for medium-rare (a trace of red, but mostly pink), or until cooked to desired doneness. Check for doneness by cutting into the center with the tip of a sharp knife and judging the color. Tuna's transition from red to pink-with-some-red occurs quite quickly; also keep in mind that the tuna will continue cooking once it's off the grill, and that cooking time will also vary according to the thickness of the tuna steaks. Err on the side of underdoneness. It's a small matter to return a piece of tuna to the grill if it's too rare. However, the only thing to do with overcooked fish is to throw it away.

4. Serve immediately, accompanied by the romesco sauce. Serve immediately, accompanied by the romesco sauce.

Grilled Striped Ba.s.s with Reine's Potato-Basil Puree Reine Samut is the chef-owner of the Auberge la Ferniere, an extraordinary restaurant in Lourmarin, in Provence. She generously allowed me to work in her kitchen for a day, and several years later I was delighted to host her at Rialto when she came to this country as part of a French cultural exchange. For three nights, we offered a special tasting menu featuring her Provencal specialties. The fish course was of the Auberge la Ferniere, an extraordinary restaurant in Lourmarin, in Provence. She generously allowed me to work in her kitchen for a day, and several years later I was delighted to host her at Rialto when she came to this country as part of a French cultural exchange. For three nights, we offered a special tasting menu featuring her Provencal specialties. The fish course was rouget rouget (a European mullet flown in from France) served atop a potato-basil puree. I usually think of mashed potatoes as cold-weather food, but this dish, with its basil and olive oil, seems saturated with the tastes of summer. Don't attempt it with anything except a first-cla.s.s extra virgin olive oil. (a European mullet flown in from France) served atop a potato-basil puree. I usually think of mashed potatoes as cold-weather food, but this dish, with its basil and olive oil, seems saturated with the tastes of summer. Don't attempt it with anything except a first-cla.s.s extra virgin olive oil.

The closest thing to rouget in this country is probably perch, but striped ba.s.s (which is easily grilled, unlike perch) seems a better alternative.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

1 pound baking potatoes 3 garlic cloves, coa.r.s.ely chopped Kosher salt cup finely chopped fresh basil Freshly ground black pepper About 1 cup extra virgin olive oil Four 6-ounce striped ba.s.s fillets, skin on, 1 to 1 inches thick 6 ripe plum tomatoes, cut in half lengthwise 2 ounces Nicoise olives, cup unpitted, remainder halved and pitted 2 lemons, 1 halved, the other cut in quarters 4 basil leaves for garnish 1. Peel the potatoes and chop into 1-inch dice. Put the potatoes and garlic in a pot and just cover with cold salted water. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer and cook until the potatoes are falling apart and the water has reduced by a third, 20 to 30 minutes. Remove from the heat; do not drain. Peel the potatoes and chop into 1-inch dice. Put the potatoes and garlic in a pot and just cover with cold salted water. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer and cook until the potatoes are falling apart and the water has reduced by a third, 20 to 30 minutes. Remove from the heat; do not drain.

2. Add the chopped basil and 6 tablespoons of the olive oil to the potatoes and puree with an immersion blender or transfer to a food processor if necessary. The puree should be the consistency of a smooth applesauce. Season with salt and pepper. Keep warm. Add the chopped basil and 6 tablespoons of the olive oil to the potatoes and puree with an immersion blender or transfer to a food processor if necessary. The puree should be the consistency of a smooth applesauce. Season with salt and pepper. Keep warm.

3. Meanwhile, prepare a hot fire in a grill. (If using a gas grill, turn all the burners to high and allow it to heat with the lid down for 15 minutes.) A grill is hot when you can hold your hand near the grilling surface for no longer than a count of 2 before having to pull it away. The cooking times given are for a gas grill, with the lid closed; if using a wood or charcoal grill, cook with the lid off and reduce the cooking time. Make sure the grill grate is clean in order to minimize sticking. Meanwhile, prepare a hot fire in a grill. (If using a gas grill, turn all the burners to high and allow it to heat with the lid down for 15 minutes.) A grill is hot when you can hold your hand near the grilling surface for no longer than a count of 2 before having to pull it away. The cooking times given are for a gas grill, with the lid closed; if using a wood or charcoal grill, cook with the lid off and reduce the cooking time. Make sure the grill grate is clean in order to minimize sticking.

4. Season the ba.s.s fillets on both sides with salt and pepper and brush with olive oil. When the grill is hot, lay the fish skin side down on the grate. Do not disturb until you're ready to turn the fish over-you need to allow the skin to char, or it will stick to the grill. After 5 minutes, gently peel up a corner of a fillet with a spatula to loosen it from the grill, then slowly pry the fish loose and flip it over. Flip the remaining fillets, and cook for 5 minutes, or until done: a sharp knife should slide easily into the fish and the flesh should be opaque. Season the ba.s.s fillets on both sides with salt and pepper and brush with olive oil. When the grill is hot, lay the fish skin side down on the grate. Do not disturb until you're ready to turn the fish over-you need to allow the skin to char, or it will stick to the grill. After 5 minutes, gently peel up a corner of a fillet with a spatula to loosen it from the grill, then slowly pry the fish loose and flip it over. Flip the remaining fillets, and cook for 5 minutes, or until done: a sharp knife should slide easily into the fish and the flesh should be opaque.

5. While the fish is cooking, season the tomato halves with salt and pepper and toss with 3 tablespoons of the olive oil. Grill cut side down until charred, 4 minutes or less, depending on the heat of the grill-the idea is to char, not incinerate, them. Don't disturb them until they've gotten a good sear, then carefully peel them off the grill and cook on the second side for another 2 minutes. They should be cooked, but not mushy. If they appear to be cooking too fast (hint: the skin is turning black), either shift them to a cooler part of the grill or remove them and cover. If covered, they'll continue cooking off the grill. While the fish is cooking, season the tomato halves with salt and pepper and toss with 3 tablespoons of the olive oil. Grill cut side down until charred, 4 minutes or less, depending on the heat of the grill-the idea is to char, not incinerate, them. Don't disturb them until they've gotten a good sear, then carefully peel them off the grill and cook on the second side for another 2 minutes. They should be cooked, but not mushy. If they appear to be cooking too fast (hint: the skin is turning black), either shift them to a cooler part of the grill or remove them and cover. If covered, they'll continue cooking off the grill.

6. Put a healthy dollop of the potato-basil puree on each plate. Arrange the fish on top and sprinkle with the olives. Put 3 tomato halves on each plate. Squeeze fresh lemon juice over the fish, drizzle with 2 tablespoons olive oil, and garnish with the basil leaves and lemon quarters. Serve immediately. Put a healthy dollop of the potato-basil puree on each plate. Arrange the fish on top and sprinkle with the olives. Put 3 tomato halves on each plate. Squeeze fresh lemon juice over the fish, drizzle with 2 tablespoons olive oil, and garnish with the basil leaves and lemon quarters. Serve immediately.

Grilled Mackerel with Eggplant, Tomatoes, and Capers I'm always surprised when I encounter people who love bluefish but won't give mackerel a chance. I'm convinced its color and price scare people away (it's often the cheapest fish at the fishmonger's-ergo, it encounter people who love bluefish but won't give mackerel a chance. I'm convinced its color and price scare people away (it's often the cheapest fish at the fishmonger's-ergo, it can't can't be good). For others it's memories of canned mackerel, which bears no comparison to the fresh whole fish. Mackerel is a firm, dark-fleshed fish with a moist meaty texture and sweet flavor that takes well to relishes. The eggplant dish included here is similar to Sicilian caponata, a sweet-and-sour eggplant salad. be good). For others it's memories of canned mackerel, which bears no comparison to the fresh whole fish. Mackerel is a firm, dark-fleshed fish with a moist meaty texture and sweet flavor that takes well to relishes. The eggplant dish included here is similar to Sicilian caponata, a sweet-and-sour eggplant salad.

Mackerel is often displayed whole, all the better to judge its freshness. As with bluefish, its fat content makes it more perishable than leaner fish. It should appear glistening and fresh, with clear eyes and no smell. If you've never grilled whole fish, mackerel is a good place to start. A -pound fish is a healthy portion for a single person. The skin crisps deliciously, and its high fat content both keeps the fish moist and cuts down on the likelihood of sticking. With just a little care, you can produce grilled whole fish that looks spectacular and tastes great. For this recipe, though, ask the fishmonger to fillet it for you. Explain that you want to end up with 1 to 2 pounds of fillets (two fillets for each person) with the skin on.

This is definitely a dish whose leftovers are worth saving. Cold grilled mackerel is a tasty fish, especially with a spicy mayonnaise like aioli or rouille (page 13). The eggplant salad is actually intended to be served at room temperature, and it even improves with a day of sitting in the refrigerator.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

EGGPLANT RELISH.

cup plus 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus additional (optional) for drizzling 1 medium eggplant (about 1 pound), chopped into -inch dice 1 small white onion, chopped into -inch dice 2 celery stalks, peeled and chopped into -inch dice 1 garlic clove, minced 1 teaspoon crushed toasted coriander seeds teaspoon hot red pepper flakes 1 teaspoon tomato paste 2 medium tomatoes, peeled (see page 55), seeded, and chopped into -inch dice 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar 2 teaspoons sugar 3 tablespoons chopped and pitted Sicilian green olives 2 tablespoons capers, rinsed 1 cup canned tomatoes, coa.r.s.ely chopped, with their juices Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 3 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 to 2 pounds mackerel fillets, skin on (8 fillets) cup vegetable oil, or as needed 1 lemon, quartered DO AHEAD: The eggplant relish can be prepared a day ahead and refrigerated. Allow it to come up to room temperature before serving. The eggplant relish can be prepared a day ahead and refrigerated. Allow it to come up to room temperature before serving.

1. Heat cup of the oil in a large saute pan over high heat. Add the eggplant and sear until golden on all sides (it won't be cooked through). Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a plate. Add 2 tablespoons more oil to the pan. Add the onion and celery and cook until they start to brown, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until aromatic, less than a minute. Add the coriander seeds, red pepper flakes, and tomato paste and cook for 1 minute. Heat cup of the oil in a large saute pan over high heat. Add the eggplant and sear until golden on all sides (it won't be cooked through). Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a plate. Add 2 tablespoons more oil to the pan. Add the onion and celery and cook until they start to brown, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until aromatic, less than a minute. Add the coriander seeds, red pepper flakes, and tomato paste and cook for 1 minute.

2. Add the remaining cup olive oil to the pan, along with the fresh tomatoes, vinegar, sugar, olives, and capers. Reduce the heat to medium and cook for 4 minutes. Add the canned tomatoes with their juices, and the eggplant. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook until the eggplant is tender. Season with salt and pepper and stir in 2 tablespoons of chopped parsley. Let cool to room temperature. Add the remaining cup olive oil to the pan, along with the fresh tomatoes, vinegar, sugar, olives, and capers. Reduce the heat to medium and cook for 4 minutes. Add the canned tomatoes with their juices, and the eggplant. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook until the eggplant is tender. Season with salt and pepper and stir in 2 tablespoons of chopped parsley. Let cool to room temperature.

3. Prepare a hot fire in a grill. A grill is hot when you can hold your hand near the grilling surface for no longer than a count of 2 before having to pull it away. The cooking times are given for a gas grill, with the lid closed; if using a wood or charcoal grill, cook with the lid off and reduce the cooking times. Make sure the grill grate is clean to minimize sticking. Prepare a hot fire in a grill. A grill is hot when you can hold your hand near the grilling surface for no longer than a count of 2 before having to pull it away. The cooking times are given for a gas grill, with the lid closed; if using a wood or charcoal grill, cook with the lid off and reduce the cooking times. Make sure the grill grate is clean to minimize sticking.

4. Season the mackerel fillets with salt and pepper on both sides, and brush both sides with the vegetable oil. Grill skin side down until the fish is three-quarters cooked, about 4 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fillets. The skin should be charred, and the fish should come off the grill easily. Season the mackerel fillets with salt and pepper on both sides, and brush both sides with the vegetable oil. Grill skin side down until the fish is three-quarters cooked, about 4 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fillets. The skin should be charred, and the fish should come off the grill easily.

5. Flip the fish and cook on the second side until done, probably only a minute or two. The fillets should be opaque all the way through. Flip the fish and cook on the second side until done, probably only a minute or two. The fillets should be opaque all the way through.

6. Spoon a quarter of the eggplant mixture into the middle of each plate. Place 2 mackerel fillets (or a fillet, depending on the size) on top of the eggplant mixture. Sprinkle with the remaining chopped parsley. Drizzle with additional olive oil, if desired. Garnish with the lemon quarters and serve immediately. Spoon a quarter of the eggplant mixture into the middle of each plate. Place 2 mackerel fillets (or a fillet, depending on the size) on top of the eggplant mixture. Sprinkle with the remaining chopped parsley. Drizzle with additional olive oil, if desired. Garnish with the lemon quarters and serve immediately.

Seared Shad Roe with Smoky Lentils Shad roe was one of the strange foods like kippered herring that my father occasionally made for breakfast-and I avoided. Now I think it's a treat, a genuine seasonal delicacy. It's available only a few short weeks in mid-March and April, and its appearance always reminds me that despite the snow on the ground, warm weather is indeed on the way. the strange foods like kippered herring that my father occasionally made for breakfast-and I avoided. Now I think it's a treat, a genuine seasonal delicacy. It's available only a few short weeks in mid-March and April, and its appearance always reminds me that despite the snow on the ground, warm weather is indeed on the way.

Shad roe are usually sold in "pairs, " or "sets, " attached pink lobes or sacs containing a firm ma.s.s of eggs. Cooked, the roe has a rich, distinctively nutty flavor and silky texture. Bacon, capers, and lentils are all traditional French accompaniments. In this recipe the pairs are briefly poached, then sauteed and served accompanied by lentils and wilted greens. You could easily double the recipe for an entree, but the roe is so rich that an appetizer portion really is more than enough.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

LENTILS.