FORCING-PIT.

Continue to introduce for succession bulbs, Lilacs, Roses, Sweet Brier, and the many other plants previously recommended as suitable and useful for that purpose. A temperature of from 65 to 70 to be maintained, with plenty of moisture in clear weather.

FORCING-HOUSES.

Figs.--Trees in pots to have their shoots stopped when they have made three or four joints, and to be supplied occasionally with liquid manure.

Melons.--The fruiting-beds to be prepared and in readiness for the reception of the young plants as soon as they have nearly filled their pots with roots.

Peaches.--If a house were started, as advised at the beginning of the year, a second should now be set to work. Syringe the trees several times a-day in clear weather, and once or twice in all weathers until the flowers begin to expand. Attention to be given to the early house, when the fruit is set, to thin it partially, but to leave one-third more on the trees than will be required to ripen off. If Peaches are intended to be grown in pots for next season, the maiden plants should now be procured, and potted in nine or ten inch pots. The _Royal George_ Peach and _Violette Hative_ Nectarine are the most eligible for that purpose.

Pines.--If any indications of the presence of worms appear on the surface of the pots a watering with clear lime water will remove them. The same steady temperature to be kept up in the fruiting-house or pit as lately advised. Although it is sometimes recommended we would not advise to withhold water at the roots for the purpose of starting them into fruit; for if, by proper management, they are good, healthy plants, they will have formed their fructiferous parts before this time, and therefore should not be allowed to get dry, but be watered when they require it with tepid water.

Vines.--The successional houses to be treated nearly in all respects the same as the early houses; the temperature may now be increased in accordance with the increase of light rather more rapidly at an early stage of their growth than that of the house in which forcing was commenced in December. When Vines for the early crops are grown in pots, put the eyes in 60-sized pots, and plunge them in a dung-frame or pit, with a bottom heat between 70 and 80.

The _Hamburghs_, _Black Prince_, _Muscadine_, and _Sweet.w.a.ter_ are the kinds to be preferred for that purpose.

SECOND WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

As plants naturally, after their season of rest during the winter, now begin to grow, it is advisable to shift the young stock, and all others that require it, into fresh soil, by which they will be the better enabled to progress to a healthy-blooming state without check or hindrance. Although from this time to the middle of March is to be considered the most favourable season for a general shift, nevertheless it may be necessary to shift some plants more than once or twice during their season of growth.

Climbers.--To be attended to, removing weak and dead wood, and cutting back to three or four eyes where an increase of young shoots is desirable. To be frequently syringed, to keep down red spider, as they are more liable than other plants to be infested by them.

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.

The advice given for the shifting of the general stock of greenhouse plants will also be applicable to the fresh potting of the stove plants.

Begonias.--Being of free growth they delight in fresh soil, consisting of equal parts of sandy loam and leaf mould. As a general rule they are repotted in February and August; but exceptions are sometimes made, and a shift is given whenever the roots become cramped or matted in the pot. The knife to be used cautiously, unless with the tall-growing sorts.

Gloxinias.--To be now started, if not done as advised a fortnight ago. When planted press the roots gently on the surface of the soil, and give them no water for some time; as the moisture in the soil will be sufficient at first until they begin to grow, when a little may be given, and the supply to be gradually increased as they advance in growth. When potted to be removed to a frame or pit where the temperature is about 60.

Luculia gratissima.--To be potted in a compost consisting of half turfy loam, one-fourth turfy peat, and one-fourth leaf mould, with good drainage.

Musa Cavendishii.--To be repotted in a compost of turfy loam, vegetable soil, or well-rotted manure, and a small portion of sand, with plenty of drainage. To be plunged in a brisk heat in a bark-bed, and to keep the roots moist.

Many of the Orchids may now be potted, and then placed in the warmest part of the house. The plants that are not shifted to be supplied with a little fresh material, taking care that the embryo buds are not covered. Look over the fastenings of all that are on blocks, or in baskets, and renew the wires where necessary. The temperature to be about 65 by day, allowing it to range to 70 or 75 by sun-heat.

FORCING-HOUSES.

Cherries.--Keep up the temperature from 50 to 55 while the trees are in bloom, with as little variation as possible. The trees not in flower to be frequently syringed.

Cuc.u.mbers.--The greatest attention should be paid to the state of the bed for the first fortnight after the plants are turned out; the heat-stick (a stick stuck into the bed) should be examined, being, as it is, a much better criterion to judge by than a thermometer, which is generally used to indicate the heat of the atmosphere in the frame; cover up according to the heat of the bed. If it will allow it, a small portion of air should be left on every night, which may be given in the evening after the frame has been closed for two or three hours. Keep up the heat by stirring, renewing, or topping-up the linings; and attend to the stopping of the plants, and the earthing-up of the hills, as the roots make their appearance on the surface.

Melons.--Pot off the plants when the seed-leaves are fully expanded.

Peaches.--When the trees have set their fruit, give the roots, if growing inside the house, a good watering with liquid manure, mixed with soft hot water, so as to be of the temperature of the house, or a little above it. The syringe to be used several times a-day in clear, mild weather as soon as the fruit is set.

Pines.--Pot the succession plants. If the pots are full of strong, healthy roots, pick out the crocks carefully without injuring them, leaving the ball entire, and giving them a good shift. But if unfortunately many of the roots are dead, shake the ball entirely away, and cut out all that are dead, preserving such as are alive and healthy, and potting them in fresh soil.

Strawberries.--Keep up a succession by placing a few dozen pots in a gentle heat once every fortnight or three weeks.

Vines.--All laterals to be stopped in due time, and all useless buds and branches to be removed; the leading shoots to be tied in regularly, and the bunches to be thinned. No more bunches to be left on each Vine than it is likely to bring to perfect maturity. About one dozen bunches are a good average crop for each rod. The temperature to range from 55 to 60 at night, with an increase of 5 to 10 during the day, and even higher during sunshine.

THIRD WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

The plants occupying the beds in the conservatory to be arranged, cleaned, and pruned. If the health or habit of a plant, or other considerations, should render it desirable to prolong the season of blooming, the pruning may be postponed for a week or two longer.

Continue to pot Cinerarias, Calceolarias, Pelargoniums, and all other such plants when they fill their pots with roots. To be then kept close for some days until fresh root-action begins. Green fly to be kept down.

Verbenas.--Put them in heat, to get cuttings; as also Heliotropes, and all other such plants, of which there is a scarcity, for bedding-out purposes.

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.

Increase the moisture and temperature gradually as the days lengthen. Start old and young plants of Clerodendrons, Dipladenias, and Stephanotis, in a sweet bottom heat. Rondeletias to be cut in, and started in the same manner.

Shift all Orchids that are starting into growth. As a high temperature causes a premature and unhealthy growth it is advisable to keep up a healthy atmosphere of from 55 to 65, with an increase of a few degrees in sunshiny weather, when a little air, if only for a very short time, should be admitted; but be careful to avoid draughts at this early period of the year. All growing plants to be watered at the roots only, being careful not to allow any water to lodge in the axils of the leaves to cause decay. To preserve the roots of some Orchids in a healthy state it is necessary to grow them on blocks of wood; the blocks to be made proportionate to the specimens they are intended to bear; and the heel of the plant to be placed close to the end of the log, to give as much s.p.a.ce as possible for the plant to grow upon. The following thrive well on blocks without moss:--_Barkeria spectabilis_, _Leptotes bicolor_, _Phalaenopsis amabilis_, and _Sophronitis cernua_, the Bra.s.savolas, the Cattleyas, nearly all the dwarf Epidendrums, all the Laelias, and nearly all the dwarf Maxillarias and Oncidiums, and all the Schombergias.

FORCING-HOUSES.

Cuc.u.mbers.--Attend to the thinning and stopping, and impregnate the fruit blossom when open.

Figs.--Care to be taken that cold currents and sudden changes of air are excluded from the trees. The roots to be well supplied with water, and the trees to be occasionally syringed overhead.

Peaches.--When set, thin the fruit and shoots as required; to be done gradually, a little at one time, to prevent any sudden and injurious change in the system of the tree. A liberal supply of moisture to be kept up, with a temperature ranging from 55 to 65 and 70 by sunheat. A drier atmosphere is advised for trees in bloom; the bloom to be thinned if the trees are weak; and if shy setters, to be artificially impregnated, using a camel-hair pencil for that purpose.

Pines.--Be watchful about the bottom heat, and lose no time in raising the pots nearer to the surface if an approach to a burning temperature is apprehended. To be thoroughly watered when they require it, and to be syringed overhead in the morning and evening of every clear day unless the plants are in bloom, or ripening their fruit. Any crowns, suckers, or small plants not well established will do well in a pit or frame on a bed of leaves, or well sweetened dung, where they will make a rapid and vigorous growth during the summer.

Vines.--Attend to last week's instructions as to stopping all laterals, &c., and thinning the bunches in good time; and tie up all the princ.i.p.al shoulders with soft strands of matting. Never allow the head or hand to touch the berries. Give them plenty of air-moisture during their swelling season; to be discontinued when they begin to colour. Shy-setting sorts--such as the _Black Damascus_, _Cannon Hall Muscat_, &c.--will set better by thinning the blossom-buds before expansion, by which a more regular and compact bunch will be produced. Late Vines should be pruned and dressed; and if not frosty the lights to be removed, which will r.e.t.a.r.d their breaking, and benefit the trees.

FOURTH WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

During continued frosty weather fires must be kept up in these houses, and then particular attention must be given to the New Holland plants, Heaths, and such like, which are impatient of heat, that they do not suffer from want of water. Be sure that the ball is thoroughly moistened at least once a-week.

PITS AND FRAMES.

Amongst climbers, Calampelises, Coboeas, Lophospermums, Maurandyas, Rodochitons, and Tropaeolums, deserve attention at this time, increasing them by cuttings or by seeds. Some annuals are also worthy of attention, such as Brachycomas, Phloxes, Portulaccas, Schizanthuses, with others which may all be forwarded in heat.