Cinerarias.--Give the final shift to the plants intended to flower as specimens in early spring.

Chrysanthemums to be treated with manure water occasionally. All suckers and spindly shoots to be removed, and the flowers to be thinned.

Pelargoniums.--A little fire-heat by day, with plenty of air, will be of service to drive off the damp and stagnant atmosphere caused by heavy rains. Watering, if necessary, to be given in the morning; the princ.i.p.al shoots to be tied into a regular form, and the weakly and useless ones removed; to be placed near the gla.s.s, to encourage a st.u.r.dy, short-jointed growth. Two ounces of the Gishurst compound, dissolved in one gallon of soft water, will speedily banish the green fly.

FORCING-HOUSES.

Cuc.u.mbers.--Keep them tied in as they grow; stop the side-shoots at the second joint; allow the leader to grow to the required length before stopping it; and pinch off the young fruit if you think they are not sufficiently strong to carry a crop.

Peaches.--Prune and dress the trees as soon as they lose their leaves. If the lights are still off any of the early houses the sooner they are put on the better. An abundance of air to be given.

Pines.--The temperature of the fruit-swelling plants to range from 60 to 65 at night, with an increase during the day in accordance with the state of the weather, whether bright and sunny, or rainy, foggy, or frosty; and the succession plants a few degrees less.

Humidity to be considerably reduced, as it tends at this season to produce weak and immature growth. The bark-beds of strong succession plants that are required to start into fruit early, to be renewed by having a small quant.i.ty added to the surface of the bed. Pits heated by dung will require covering with mats at night: when covered let every other light be slightly raised, to allow the steam to pa.s.s off. When the covering is off it will escape through the laps of the gla.s.s. Take advantage of all opportunities for giving a little air.

If it can be done every day, so much the better for the health of the plants.

Vines.--The Vines in late houses that will not require to be pruned for some time should have the tops or other portions of the immature wood cut off, to give strength and plumpness to the back eyes. If the houses are dry, kept free from drip, and the scissors employed amongst decaying berries, the fruit that now remains will be in a good condition for holding on for a long time.

NOVEMBER.

FIRST WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

Now that the dull, foggy days and sharp frosty nights have arrived, it is necessary to keep all plants that have finished their growth free from excitement, and rather dry at their roots. A gentle fire to be applied during the day, which will allow the advantage of a free circulation of fresh air, and, by closing up early in the afternoon, will retain sufficient heat to resist the encroachments of ordinary frosts during the night. But if the frost should set in severely, night coverings, if possible, should be applied in preference to fire-heat.

American Plants, &c.--Pot, if not done, Rhododendrons, Kalmias, hardy Azaleas, Lily of the Valley, and other plants usually required for winter forcing.

Chrysanthemums.--They will require an abundance of air to prevent the flowers expanding weakly. Keep them well supplied with water, and the leaves in a healthy state; for a great portion of their beauty depends upon so doing. They may sometimes be seen almost entirely denuded of leaves when in flower, which considerably detracts from what should be their ornamental appearance in the greenhouse or conservatory.

Primroses (Chinese).--Give a few of the strongest and most forward a shift into larger pots. The double varieties are very useful for cutting where bouquets are much in request, as they do not drop the flowers like the single varieties.

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.

Great caution will now be necessary in the application of atmospheric heat and humidity, as an excess of either will cause a premature and unseasonable growth which no after-care could thoroughly rectify. The thermometer for the majority of stove plants need not at any time of the day exceed 60, with a fall of 8 or 10 during the night.

Begonias.--They deserve a place in every stove, as they are plants of easy cultivation, and bloom at a season when flowers are scarce; they can also be introduced to the conservatory or sitting-room when in bloom.

FORCING-HOUSES.

Hotbeds.--Keep up the heat of dungbeds by adding leaves and dung to the linings; but not sufficient of the latter to cause a rank steam in the frames.

Peaches.--If any vacancies occur in the late houses they should now be filled up. We have before recommended trees of large size to be taken from the walls for this purpose, but in so doing care should be taken to select such sorts as the _Murray_, _Elruge_, and _Violette Hative_ Nectarines; _n.o.blesse_, _Royal George_, _Grosse Mignonne_, and _Chancellor_ Peaches, being the best adapted for forcing. Some sorts are of little value as forced fruit, although they may bear abundantly.

Pines.--Coverings to be used, and as little fire-heat as possible, to keep up the required heat during the night. The heat of the spring-fruiting and succession-houses to be gradually decreased, so that it may range from 60 to 65. The winter-fruiting plants to range 10 higher.

Vines.--The Grapes will require unremitting attention to keep the house dry, and to cut out the decayed berries. It will, we suppose, be generally observed that the fruit that was ripe before wet weather sets in will keep better than the more backward ones, which may be a useful hint "to make hay while the sun shines," or, in other words, to ripen the fruit in good time. Prune and dress the Vines in the succession-houses as recommended for the early ones.

When Vines have been taken out of the house they should be protected from the vicissitudes of the weather, as they are sometimes greatly injured by being exposed to excessive wet and severe frosts.

SECOND WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

Continue to admit air in favourable weather, but not in currents; shut up early; use water sparingly, and always tepid--giving little or none to succulents and plants in a state of rest.

Flowers.--Where there is a pit at liberty it may now be prepared for forcing flowers. The gla.s.s must be thoroughly cleaned, as light is of importance at this season. The tree leaves when gathered to be mixed with a portion of well-prepared dung, to produce an early action, and about nine inches of tan or sawdust placed over them in which to plunge the pots. The plants, if in proper condition, may be introduced immediately--viz. Azaleas, Camellias, Persian Lilacs, Gardenias, Moss and Provence Roses, Rhododendrons, Sweet Briars, Honeysuckles, &c. The Hyacinths, Narcissi, Tulips, and other bulbs that have been potted early, as advised in due season, may be introduced successively in small quant.i.ties when the buds are an inch or two long, plunging them in any out-of-the-way part of the pit, covering them for a time with four or five inches of old tan.

Heaths and New Holland Plants.--Water them sparingly. Dry the atmosphere if necessary by lighting a slight fire on fine days. Give air freely.

Pelargoniums.--Shift and tie out as they may require. A few of the most forward may be accelerated by a little heat.

Primroses (Chinese).--Water with caution. Two or three small pegs to be stuck into the soil around each, to keep the stem and plant erect in the pot. Thin out weak and deformed bloom-buds.

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.

The resting section of Orchids should now be allowed to settle down gently to their annual repose by withholding water at the root, by diminishing the amount of atmospheric moisture, and by giving a more liberal ventilation than in the growing season. The more evergreen kinds--such as some of the Aerides, Dendrobiums, Saccolabiums, Vandas, &c., to be favoured with the warmest situation.

FORCING-HOUSES.

Asparagus.--Where it is wanted early, preparations should now be made for forcing it. Any old Cuc.u.mber or Melon-bed that still retains a gentle heat may be used for the purpose. The plants to be placed as closely as possible, and covered with three or four inches of any light soil. The application of linings will supply any deficiency of heat that may be caused by severe weather. When the heads come up, to be supplied with an abundance of light and air.

Cherries.--Look over the plants in pots, and if they require shifting into larger pots it may be done at once. The pots to be plunged in coal ashes, or any other loose material, to protect the roots from frost, and where they will commence rooting immediately.

Figs.--If the summer and autumn attention has been given to them, as advised, very little, if any, winter pruning will now be required; but if such is necessary it may be done as soon as the leaves fade. The trees to be carefully washed clean all over with soap and water, and then painted over with a mixture composed of one ounce of soft soap and one ounce of sulphur to a quart of water.

Trees in pots to be shifted, or top-dressed, as may be necessary.

Shifting is only recommended when it is desirable to increase the size of the trees. To be afterwards placed in a shed with the pots plunged in leaves.

Pines.--The plants on which the fruit has recently appeared to be encouraged with heat and moderate moisture; but those that are likely to "show" for the next two months to be supplied with a temperature to keep them progressing slowly that they may be just beginning to swell their fruit when the days and sun are lengthening and strengthening. The state of temperature of the beds recently renewed with tan to be examined frequently, as they sometimes become suddenly too hot. Now, when Oak and other tree leaves can be collected, it is advisable to use half leaves and half dung for lining the pits heated by fermenting materials; the leaves contribute to make the heat more regular and lasting. Give no water to the succession plants during dull weather except to such plants as are near the flues and pipes, and are apt to get over-dry in consequence.

Sea-kale.--If this delicious vegetable is wanted early, a small hotbed should be made in some convenient place; the roots to be taken up and placed upon it, covered with a little light soil, and protected by boards or any other contrivance most convenient and suitable to exclude light and the inclemency of the weather.

Rhubarb.--The same as advised for Sea-kale. Where a Mushroom-house is at work is the best place for both.

Vines.--All fading leaves to be removed from the Vines on which fruit is hanging, and the house to be kept dry, light, and airy, and free from anything likely to create mould or damp.

THIRD WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.