1 quart can of tomatoes 1/2 pint of cream 1 quart of chicken bouillon 2 tablespoonfuls of b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoonfuls of arrowroot 1 bay leaf 1 blade of mace 1 onion 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 teaspoonful of paprika

Add the onion, paprika, mace and bay leaf to the tomatoes, boil rapidly five minutes. Moisten the arrowroot with three or four tablespoonfuls of cold water, add it to the hot tomato, boil ten minutes, and press through a sieve. Add the chicken bouillon, boil ten minutes, add the b.u.t.ter, and, when the b.u.t.ter is thoroughly dissolved, turn at once into cups. Put a tablespoonful of whipped cream on top of each, and serve.

This will serve ten persons.

GLAZE

Glaze is absolutely necessary for fine cooking, either for the browning of sweetbreads, birds or chickens.

Cover a half box of gelatin with a half cupful of cold water to soak for an hour. Put one quart of good bouillon, chicken or beef, over the fire, and boil it rapidly until reduced to a pint; add the gelatin. As soon as the gelatin is dissolved, strain the mixture. Put four tablespoonfuls of sugar into an iron saucepan, stir until it is browned, then add to it slowly the hot glaze, stir until it is thoroughly melted, turn it into a china or granite receptacle, and stand away to cool. Keep this in the refrigerator, and use it according to directions.

SWEETBREADS

SWEETBREADS a la CREME, No. 1

2 pairs of calves' sweetbreads 1 can of mushrooms 1 pint of milk 4 level tablespoonfuls of b.u.t.ter 4 level tablespoonfuls of flour 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of white pepper

Wash the sweetbreads and trim them. Throw them in a saucepan of boiling water and simmer gently for one hour; drain and throw them in cold water.

The water in which they were boiled may be used for stock. When they are thoroughly cold, remove the membrane, and pick them into small pieces.

Rub the b.u.t.ter and flour together in a saucepan, add the milk, stir until boiling, add the mushrooms, chopped fine, the sweetbreads, salt and pepper.

Stir until it again reaches the boiling point, cover and stand over hot water for twenty minutes. Serve in ramekin dishes, pate sh.e.l.ls or paper cases. This will fill twelve cases, or fourteen pate sh.e.l.ls.

SWEETBREADS a la CREME, No. 2

1 pound of fresh mushrooms 2 pairs of calves' sweetbreads 1/2 pint of milk 4 level tablespoonfuls of b.u.t.ter 4 level tablespoonfuls of flour 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of white pepper

Wash and stem the mushrooms; do not peel them. With a silver knife cut them into slices. Put half the b.u.t.ter in a saucepan, add the mushrooms and half the milk, and the salt and pepper. Cover the saucepan, and stew slowly a half hour. Rub the remaining b.u.t.ter and flour together; drain the liquor from the mushrooms, add it, with the rest of the milk, to the b.u.t.ter and flour. Stir until boiling, add the mushrooms and sweetbreads that have been boiled and picked apart. Cover the saucepan, stand it over hot water, or use a double boiler, pushing the boiler to the back of the stove for twenty to thirty minutes. The saucepan must be kept closely covered, or the aroma of the mushrooms will be lost.

This will fill sixteen cases, or fourteen pate sh.e.l.ls, or alone it will serve twelve persons.

SWEETBREADS a la BORDELAISE

1 pair of calves' sweetbreads 1/2 pint of stock 1 onion 1 bay leaf 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 can of mushrooms 1 teaspoonful of browning or kitchen bouquet 1 saltspoonful of white pepper 2 level tablespoonfuls of b.u.t.ter 2 level tablespoonfuls of flour

Wash the sweetbreads, put them in a saucepan, add the bay leaf, onion and one pint of cold water; bring to boiling point, and simmer gently one hour.

Save the water in which they were boiled. Throw the sweetbreads into cold water, remove the membrane and pick them apart. Put the b.u.t.ter and flour in a saucepan; when thoroughly mixed, add a half pint of stock in which the sweetbreads were boiled, stir until boiling, add the mushrooms, drained, and the seasoning. Bring to boiling point, and push to the back of the fire for ten minutes. Skim off any b.u.t.ter that comes to the surface, add the sweetbreads, cook gently ten minutes longer, and serve in either pate cases, ramekin dishes, or paper cases.

This will serve eight persons.

BAKED SWEETBREADS

2 pairs of calves' sweetbreads 1 can of French peas 3 tablespoonfuls of b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoonfuls of glaze 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper

Wash the sweetbreads and soak them in cold water; cut them apart and trim them neatly. Sprinkle the bottom of a baking pan with a chopped onion, put the sweetbreads on top, dust them lightly with salt and pepper, baste them with one tablespoonful of the b.u.t.ter, melted, and run them in a quick oven to bake for twenty minutes. Then brush them thoroughly with glaze and bake them ten minutes longer. Drain, wash and heat the peas, add the remaining b.u.t.ter and season them with salt and pepper. Put the peas in the bottom of the serving dish, dish the sweetbreads in them and send at once to the table. These may also be served in individual dishes, cutting the sweetbreads in small pieces, so they may be eaten with a fork.

They will serve from four to six people. The throat sweetbread may be cut into halves, but as a rule one sweetbread is served to each person.

LAMBS' SWEETBREADS IN PAPER CASES

8 lambs' sweetbreads 1/2 box of gelatin 1 pint of beef stock or chicken bouillon 1 can of peas 1 head of celery 2 level tablespoonfuls of b.u.t.ter 2 level tablespoonfuls of flour 1/2 pint of milk 1 lemon Hearts of lettuce Yolks of two eggs Salt and pepper

Wash the sweetbreads, put them in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, add two tablespoonfuls of vinegar and a sliced onion. Cook gently for three-quarters of an hour. Drain, put them in a baking pan, brush them with b.u.t.ter, add a few tablespoonfuls of glaze or stock, put over three or four slices of bacon, and cook in the oven a half hour, basting three or four times. Rub the b.u.t.ter and flour together, add the milk, stir until boiling, add two tablespoonfuls of the soaked gelatin, a half teaspoonful of salt and a little white pepper. Take from the fire and add hastily the beaten yolks of the eggs. Cover the bottom of a cold baking pan with m.u.f.fin rings, put one sweetbread into each m.u.f.fin ring. When the sauce is a little cool, cover the sweetbreads thoroughly, filling the rings quite full. Stand these away over night in a cold place.

Dissolve the remaining gelatin in the hot bouillon, season, add the lemon juice, and stand it aside over night. At serving time, remove the contents from the rings and place them in paper cases of the same size. Turn the clear aspic out on to a towel and cut it into pretty shapes. Decorate the top of the cases with this aspic, placing a sprig of green in the centre.

Drain and press the cold peas through a sieve, and season them with salt and pepper; put this pulp in a pastry bag with a star tube, and decorate the top of each mold. Serve at once with mayonnaise pa.s.sed in a boat.

Another way is to fill the bottom of the paper cases with finely chopped celery, mixed with mayonnaise, and put the sweetbreads on top, omitting the peas. If made well, these are exceedingly handsome. One "ring" will be served to each person.

SWEETBREADS a la NEWBURG

2 pairs of calves' sweetbreads 1 can of mushrooms 4 hard boiled yolks of eggs 1/2 pint of milk 2 level tablespoonfuls of b.u.t.ter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of white pepper 1/2 saltspoonful of grated nutmeg A dash of cayenne

Cook the sweetbreads as directed in first recipe; when cold, pick them apart, rejecting the membrane. Rub the b.u.t.ter and flour together, add the milk, stir until boiling, and add this slowly to the mashed yolks of the eggs. Work and stir until you have a perfectly smooth paste. Press it through a fine sieve, add the salt, pepper, mushrooms and sweetbreads.

Stand over hot water for twenty minutes, until thoroughly hot. Add, if you use it, four tablespoonfuls of sherry, and serve.

This will serve ten persons.

Sh.e.l.l-FISH DISHES

DEVILED CRABS

12 crabs, or one pint of crab flake 4 hard boiled eggs 2 level tablespoonfuls of b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoonfuls of soft bread crumbs 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of grated nutmeg 1 teaspoonful of onion juice 1/2 pint of milk A dash of cayenne

Chop the whites of the hard boiled eggs very, very fine. Put the yolks through a sieve. Rub the b.u.t.ter and flour together, and add the milk; stir until boiling, take from the fire, and add the bread crumbs and the eggs.

Add all the seasoning to the crab flake, mix the two together, and fill at once into the sh.e.l.ls. The sh.e.l.ls must be quite full, so that there will be no danger of the fat being held in the sh.e.l.l. Dip the sh.e.l.ls in egg, then cover them thickly with bread crumbs. It is well to egg and bread crumb the upper side again; in fact both dippings may be on the upper sides, leaving the sh.e.l.ls red underneath. Put these in a frying basket and fry for a minute in hot, deep fat. Serve one to each person.

This quant.i.ty should fill eight sh.e.l.ls.

CRAB BACKS a la CARACAS

1 dozen crabs, or six backs and a pint of crab flake 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 teaspoonful of onion juice A dash of cayenne

Add the seasoning to the crab flakes, and mix without breaking the flakes.

Fill the mixture into the backs, put a teaspoonful of b.u.t.ter on the top of each, sprinkle lightly with crumbs, and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes,