However, as we have said, the chief difficulty in getting good position is when playing--

CANNONS.

Here the player has to consider the position of all three b.a.l.l.s at the end of the stroke. There are two ways of getting position in playing a cannon.

We can leave the red over a pocket, or play to bring the b.a.l.l.s together. It is obvious that when all the b.a.l.l.s are close together, it is almost a certainty that there is an easy score left.

Suppose, in Fig. 6, the red ball is on the spot S, the white ball at B, and the player in hand. There is, of course, an easy cannon left, but how ought he to play it so as to leave an easy score next time?

The game here is to leave the b.a.l.l.s together at the end of the stroke. The striker spots his ball at A in baulk, so as to strike B the ordinary half-ball stroke. The stroke should be played slowly, so that the white ball rebounds off the left-hand upper side cushion at C, and travels towards D. The player's own ball hits the red gently, and all three b.a.l.l.s are left close together, near the top of the table, one of the best positions possible.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 7.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 8.]

{314}

In playing to leave the red ball over a pocket, a good deal depends upon whether you play a cannon off the red on to the white, or off the white on to the red. For instance, in Fig. 7, suppose the striker in hand, and the two other b.a.l.l.s stationed at A and R. If A is the red ball, the stroke is played one way, and if A is the white ball it is played another way. If A is the red you should play to make the cannon with just sufficient strength to double the red across the table, and leave it in position A_1, over the middle pocket. If R was the red ball, you ought to play with just sufficient strength, and also sufficiently accurately, to hit the red ball full and leave it in position R_1, over the left-hand top pocket.

Another important point in playing cannons is to play what is called "outside" the b.a.l.l.s when they are close together. Suppose, in Fig. 7, the b.a.l.l.s are in the position shown in C, D, and E. C is the player's ball. If he hits D and makes the cannon hitting E full, he separates the b.a.l.l.s, but if he plays so as to just touch D and E, hitting them on the extreme edge, he keeps them together.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 9.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 10.]

{317}

We will, in conclusion, give a brief explanation of the spot stroke in the "all-in game." This is in fact, as we have already seen, a series of spot hazards.[70] We must, however, warn the beginner that though nothing looks more simple, nothing really is more difficult. The simplest position for the spot stroke is when the striker's ball is in a direct line with the red ball and the pocket (Fig. 8). Of course, the proper play is to screw back and bring your own ball into the same place. Were this a "certainty," the striker would go on scoring for ever. Sooner or later, however, he will find his ball will not come back quite straight. It will come back slightly nearer the top cushion, or rather more away from it. In the first of these cases (position 2, Fig. 9), the best plan is to follow through the red ball. This can be done simply by a following stroke. A is the striker's ball; B the position of the striker's ball after the stroke. When the b.a.l.l.s are nearly, but not quite straight, this is done by means of a stab shot.

In position 3 (Fig. 10) the striker's ball is at A. The play now is to drop on to the red ball with sufficient strength to put it in, and get position at B off the top cushion. Sometimes a little side is necessary.

In position 4 (Fig. 11) the striker's ball A is nearly, but not quite, in a line with the red ball and the opposite pocket. When this is the case, the only way to get position is to run through the red and get position off the two cushions. You must play to hit your ball very high and with a great deal of freedom of cue. It is a stroke in which a beginner would probably fail.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 11.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 12.]

{320}

It is as well to know within what limits the spot stroke can be played.

Suppose we draw a line, X Y (Fig. 12), through the spot S, parallel with the top cushion. If the striker's ball is within this line or nearer to the top cushion, it is no use putting in the red gently, as position would be lost. The only plan to recover position is to play all round the table.

Suppose the striker's ball is within the line at A, he now plays to put the red ball in the right-hand top pocket and recover position by going right round the table till his ball stops at B. This is a very difficult stroke, but is often played for and obtained by a first-cla.s.s player.

THE BILLIARDS CONTROL CLUB RULES.

These Rules (issued in February, 1909) are specially applicable to professional matches, and,--like the Rimington-Wilson Code, on which they are based,--have particularly in view the reduction of safety misses to a minimum and the imposition of one definite penalty for each and every kind of foul stroke or illegitimate miss. In issuing the Code, the Secretary lays stress on the following provisions:--

A player may not make two misses in successive innings, unless he or the opponent scores after the first miss, or a double baulk intervenes. (_Rule 9._)

When striker's ball remains touching another ball, red ball shall be spotted, and non-striker's ball, if on the table, shall be placed on the centre spot; striker shall play from the D; if non-striker's ball is in hand, red shall be spotted, and striker shall break the b.a.l.l.s. (_Rule 10._)

Consecutive ball-to-ball cannons are limited to 25; on the completion of this number the break shall only be continued by the intervention of a hazard or indirect cannon. (_Rule 13._)

PENALTIES.

If, after contact with another ball, striker's or any other ball is forced off the table, the non-striker shall add two points to his score. (_Rule 18._) {321}

For a foul stroke the striker cannot score, and his opponent plays from hand. His ball shall be placed on the centre spot, the red ball shall be spotted, and his opponent shall play from the D.

For refusing to continue the game when called upon by the referee or marker to do so, or for conduct which, in the opinion of the referee or marker, is wilfully or persistently unfair, a player shall lose the game. (_Rule 18._)

PYRAMIDS.

This game is played by two persons with sixteen b.a.l.l.s,--one white, and fifteen red. The latter are arranged in the form of a solid triangle, with its apex on the Pyramid spot (P in Fig. 1), and its base towards the top cushion and lying parallel thereto.

At the commencement of the game, one player leads off from the half-circle, and plays at any one of the red b.a.l.l.s. Should he pocket one or more b.a.l.l.s, he scores one for each red ball pocketed. He continues playing till he fails to score.

If a player gives a miss, or pockets the white ball, a point is taken off his score and he must replace one of the red b.a.l.l.s he has previously pocketed; on the Pyramid spot, if unoccupied, or, if that be occupied, as near to it as possible in a line directly behind it. If he has not previously pocketed a ball, he _owes_ one, and must pay it by replacing the first ball that he pockets later on.

After a miss, the opponent follows on from where the white ball stopped; but after a pocketing of the white ball, the opponent follows on from the {322} half-circle. In playing at a red ball, baulk is no obstacle.

If a striker pockets the white ball, and at the same time pockets one or more of the red b.a.l.l.s, he gains nothing by the stroke, but one is deducted from his score; the red b.a.l.l.s pocketed must be spotted on the table, as well as one of the striker's red b.a.l.l.s previously pocketed. The opponent follows on from the half-circle.

When the red b.a.l.l.s have all been pocketed but one, the player making the last score continues playing with the white ball, and his opponent uses the other. If a striker now make a miss, or pocket the ball he is playing with, the opponent adds one to his score, and the game is over.

Sh.e.l.l OUT.

This is a name given to Pyramids when played by more than two persons.

When a striker pockets a red ball he receives from each of the other players a stake previously agreed on. No ball is ever replaced on the table after a miss, or after pocketing the white. Should any player miss or pocket the white, he pays for each of the other players as well as for himself whenever the next red ball is pocketed. When only one red ball is left in play, each player continues playing with the white. Pocketing the red is now paid double all round; and if a striker miss, or pocket the white, he pays double all round.

The order of play is drawn for at the beginning of each game. {323}

WORKS OF REFERENCE.

BILLIARDS EXPOUNDED. By J. P. Mannock, a.s.sisted by S. A. Mussabini.

Grant Richards, 2 vols., 15s.

PRACTICAL BILLIARDS. By C. Dawson. To be had from the author, "Thorns,"

Hook Road, Surbiton, Surrey. 12s. 6d.

HINTS ON BILLIARDS. By J. Buchanan. Geo. Bell and Sons.

MODERN BILLIARDS. By J. Roberts. C. Arthur Pearson, Limited.

BILLIARDS FOR EVERYBODY (Oval Series). By Charles Roberts. Routledge.

1s.