What beans? What roast? Espresso Espresso refers to the refers to the method method of making the coffee and not the coffee itself. The dark "espresso roasts" are certainly a traditional way to go for that bold, dark, caramelized flavor with hints of bittersweet chocolate, and you'll find them wherever a variety of coffees are sold. But you may find that a lighter roast is more enjoyable, giving you citrus, berry, or floral notes, depending on the coffee's origin. Experiment with different types of coffees, blends, and roasts to see what flavors, bodies, and aromas appeal to your particular taste buds! of making the coffee and not the coffee itself. The dark "espresso roasts" are certainly a traditional way to go for that bold, dark, caramelized flavor with hints of bittersweet chocolate, and you'll find them wherever a variety of coffees are sold. But you may find that a lighter roast is more enjoyable, giving you citrus, berry, or floral notes, depending on the coffee's origin. Experiment with different types of coffees, blends, and roasts to see what flavors, bodies, and aromas appeal to your particular taste buds!

The stovetop method: Using a stovetop espresso maker is fairly simple. After a few tries, you'll get the hang of the timing, so don't stress over a few trial-run mistakes. Using a stovetop espresso maker is fairly simple. After a few tries, you'll get the hang of the timing, so don't stress over a few trial-run mistakes.

Step 1-Unscrew the top and bottom chambers. Remove the little basket (A) out of the bottom chamber and fill the bottom chamber with fresh, cold water. (Filtered is best.) You want to fill it just up to the base of the little steam valve (B). Don't go over the valve.

Step 2-Grind the beans finely. You want the consistency of fine sand. Don't grind them too too finely-you don't want powder-or you'll make the beans bitter. Conversely, finely-you don't want powder-or you'll make the beans bitter. Conversely, do not do not use coffee that's been preground for a use coffee that's been preground for a drip drip maker. The grind should be finer than a drip grind. If you don't have your own grinder, then look for a coffee that's been preground especially for making espresso. maker. The grind should be finer than a drip grind. If you don't have your own grinder, then look for a coffee that's been preground especially for making espresso.

Step 3-Measure the grinds loosely loosely into your stovetop basket (A). For each cup, the measure is 1 to 3 level teaspoons of finely ground coffee-using the teaspoon from your measuring set. I use 2 level teaspoons per cup, which comes out to 6 level teaspoons total for a 3-cup Moka pot; 12 level teaspoons for a 6-cup pot, and so on. If you like your espresso milder, then add less coffee; if you like a stronger taste, add more. Don't tamp the grounds in-just pile it up into a pyramid in the basket. into your stovetop basket (A). For each cup, the measure is 1 to 3 level teaspoons of finely ground coffee-using the teaspoon from your measuring set. I use 2 level teaspoons per cup, which comes out to 6 level teaspoons total for a 3-cup Moka pot; 12 level teaspoons for a 6-cup pot, and so on. If you like your espresso milder, then add less coffee; if you like a stronger taste, add more. Don't tamp the grounds in-just pile it up into a pyramid in the basket. NOTE: NOTE: You should not try to make You should not try to make less less coffee than the pot holds. If you have a 3-cup espresso pot, then you must make 3 cups every time-not 1 and not 5. If you have a 6-cup maker, you must make 6 cups, and so on. coffee than the pot holds. If you have a 3-cup espresso pot, then you must make 3 cups every time-not 1 and not 5. If you have a 6-cup maker, you must make 6 cups, and so on.

Step 4-Tightly screw the upper pot down onto the lower one, making sure no coffee grounds are sitting on the rim to prevent a tight seal. Put the pot on the stove over low to medium heat. (If you make your espresso over heat that's too high, you may overextract your espresso and turn it bitter. As with many things in life, you shouldn't try to rush the process!)

Step 5-The entire brewing cycle takes between three and six minutes, depending on the size of your pot. The water will heat up in the lower chamber, producing steam. Because steam occupies more space than water, it builds pressure and forces the hot water up through the puck of coffee grinds in your filter. You will hear your espresso gurgling up through the pot's "fountain" (C) and into the upper chamber. When you hear the gurgling slow, watch for steam puffing out of the pot's spout, then check the upper chamber. If it's filled with coffee, then you're finished! Remove from the heat and pour into prewarmed cups. (To prewarm my cup, I simply use hot tap water. Fill the cup; let sit a minute; discard the water; wipe dry; and you're good to go!) HOW TO CREATE LATTE AND CAPPUCCINO FROTH WITHOUT WITHOUT AN ESPRESSO MACHINE STEAM WAND AN ESPRESSO MACHINE STEAM WAND.

No, it is not the same as professional, coffeehouse-quality foamed milk, and I wouldn't even try try to pour latte art with it. For true microfoam nirvana, you should visit your local barista! To have some fun at home, however, my stovetop method allows you to create a to pour latte art with it. For true microfoam nirvana, you should visit your local barista! To have some fun at home, however, my stovetop method allows you to create a rustic rustic version of a coffeehouse cappuccino and latte in your own kitchen. version of a coffeehouse cappuccino and latte in your own kitchen.

If you're looking for something higher higher-tech, you can now find machines designed solely to heat and froth your milk. Just type "automatic milk frother" into an Internet search or shopping engine, and you'll get a variety of affordable models to begin considering. In the meantime, here's a low-tech solution for creating foam at home!

Step 1-Fill a medium-size saucepan aboutfull with water. Place the pan over high heat until the water begins to boil. Turn the heat down to medium and allow the water to simmer.

Step 2-Select a heatproof mixing bowl from your cupboard that is large enough to sit on top of the saucepan. (You are creating a double boiler.) Make sure the simmering water beneath the bowl is not touching the bowl's bottom. Pour fresh, cold milk into the bowl and allow it to warm over the boiling water for one one minute, no longer! How much milk? About minute, no longer! How much milk? Aboutcup per serving.

Step 3-With an oven mitt on one hand to hold the hot bowl and a handheld electric mixer in the other, tip the bowl enough to tilt all of the milk into one deep, concentrated pool and then whip it. (Whip it good! Use the fastest fastest speed available on your mixer and simply hold the mixing beaters in the center of the milk pool-do not move the mixer around.) In a matter of speed available on your mixer and simply hold the mixing beaters in the center of the milk pool-do not move the mixer around.) In a matter of seconds seconds, you'll see the warmed white fluid froth up. Whip the milk 20-90 seconds, depending on how much foam you'd like to create, and you're done! Do not over whip the milk. You won't be able to foam up every molecule of milk with this method, and if you whip it too much, you'll just begin breaking down the foam you've created.

Troubleshooting: To make this rustic frothing method foolproof, keep these four suggestions in mind. (1) Never try to re-froth milk that's been whipped and has fallen. It won't work. You must always start with cold, fresh, undisturbed milk. Pour it straight from the fridge to your measuring cup to the bowl. That's it. (2) Don't try to start whipping at a low speed and increase it. Whip it like crazy from the start, using the highest speed possible on your blender-if there's not enough immediate, vigorous whipping action, the milk won't properly foam up. (3) If you want to infuse spices or flavorings into your latte or cappuccino, then stir them into your hot espresso shot. Do To make this rustic frothing method foolproof, keep these four suggestions in mind. (1) Never try to re-froth milk that's been whipped and has fallen. It won't work. You must always start with cold, fresh, undisturbed milk. Pour it straight from the fridge to your measuring cup to the bowl. That's it. (2) Don't try to start whipping at a low speed and increase it. Whip it like crazy from the start, using the highest speed possible on your blender-if there's not enough immediate, vigorous whipping action, the milk won't properly foam up. (3) If you want to infuse spices or flavorings into your latte or cappuccino, then stir them into your hot espresso shot. Do not not add syrups, flavorings, or ground spices into the milk before trying to froth it. (4) Finally, do not allow the milk to warm much longer than a few minutes over the boiling water. Steaming milk properly brings out its sweetness. If the milk is overheated, however, your latte will have a terrible scorched taste instead of a sweet one. That's why my rustic frothing method is done double boiler style instead of in a pan sitting directly on the stove burner. It's the best way to control the heat and prevent your milk from scorching. add syrups, flavorings, or ground spices into the milk before trying to froth it. (4) Finally, do not allow the milk to warm much longer than a few minutes over the boiling water. Steaming milk properly brings out its sweetness. If the milk is overheated, however, your latte will have a terrible scorched taste instead of a sweet one. That's why my rustic frothing method is done double boiler style instead of in a pan sitting directly on the stove burner. It's the best way to control the heat and prevent your milk from scorching.

MAKING A RUSTIC CAPPUCCINO.

For one serving, start withcup of cold, fresh milk. Follow my directions for frothing the milk. After 60-90 seconds of whipping, when much of the milk in the mixing bowl has grown into a thick cloud of rustic foam dense enough to scoop with a spoon, you're ready to create your cappuccino.

Step 1-Pour 1-2 shots of hot espresso (1 shot = 2 tablespoons) into an 8-ounce mug. The number of shots depends on how strong a coffee flavor you'd like in your drink.

Step 2-Stir in 1-2 teaspoons sugar, if desired. Or, if you'd like a flavored cappuccino, this is the time to stir in syrups or other flavorings.

Step 3-Carefully tip the mixing bowl and allow a bit of the steamed milk fluid to pour into the espresso. (Use a spoon to hold back the gobs of foam as you pour.) Finally, spoon the remaining thick foam into your mug-or as much as you can fit!

MAKING A RUSTIC LATTE.

A latte is similar to a cappuccino. The difference is in the amount of foam-a cappuccino has much more foamed milk than a latte. For one serving of a latte, start with 2/3 cup of cold, fresh milk, right from the fridge. Follow my directions for frothing the milk. Do not whip the milk more than 20- 30 seconds. At that point, about half of the milk in the bowl should still be fluid and half foamy. Now you're ready to make your latte. Simply follow the directions for my Basic Caffe Latte recipe on page 311.

Note on type of milk: In Italy, the use of full-fat whole milk is the standard. If you order a cappuccino with skim milk, they'll look at you like you're crazy. Why? In Italy, the use of full-fat whole milk is the standard. If you order a cappuccino with skim milk, they'll look at you like you're crazy. Why? La dolce vita La dolce vita-"the sweet life"-is the philosophy. It means you should savor the joy of living. If you're going to have a cappuccino, have it with the better better-tasting milk and drink with joy. If you want to limit the fat and calories in your drink, however, by all means use 1% or skim milk for most of the recipes in this book.

COFFEE DRINK RECIPES.

Espresso Variations In Italy, ending a meal with a freshly made demitasse of espresso is not only common, it's also thought to aid digestion of the meal. Here are some ideas for serving espresso as an after-dinner experience in your home.

ESPRESSO ROMANO "SWEET"

"Sweet" is my own term for this way of serving espresso that I've seen in some Italian-American homes. Rub the edge of your cup with a lemon wedge, then dip the dampened edge in sugar and sip the espresso through the sweet, lemony rim.

ESPRESSO WITH CANDIED ORANGE PEEL.

Simply serve the espresso with the candied citrus peel on the side of the demitasse saucer. See my recipe on page 364 for instructions on how to make your own candied orange, lemon, or grapefruit peels.

ESPRESSO AMERICANO.

Pour 1 shot of hot espresso into an 8-ounce mug. Fill the rest of the mug with hot water.

ESPRESSO WITH SAMBUCA.

Serve the demitasse of espresso with a shot of Sambuca on the side. Sambuca is an Italian liqueur with an anise flavor-and Italians believe that anise aids digestion after a meal. Traditionally it is served in a shot glass with roasted coffee beans floating on top. The beans can be ignored as ornamental, or you can chew them to increase the anise flavor of the liqueur. Three coffee beans is traditional good luck, standing for health, happiness, and prosperity. So when you serve your guests, count accordingly!

CAFFE CORRETTO ("CORRECTED COFFEE") Add teaspoon of brandy or grappa (Italian brandy) to 1 shot of hot espresso.

ESPRESSO AMARETTO.

Add 1 teaspoon of amaretto to 1 shot of hot espresso. Especially delicious served with Dante's Christmas Fruitcake Cookies and Mike Quinn's Cherry Cordial Fudge. (See recipes for these goodies and more in the following section.) ESPRESSO ANISETTE.

Add 1 teaspoon of anisette liquor to 1 shot of hot espresso. Serve with a lemon twist.

ESPRESSO KAHLUA.

Add 1 teaspoon of Kahlua to 1 shot of hot espresso. Top with a bit of milk foam.

ESPRESSO WHISKEY.

Add teaspoon of Irish whiskey to 1 shot of hot espresso. Top with a bit of whipped cream.

ESPRESSO RUM.

Add 1 teaspoon of dark rum to 1 shot of hot espresso. Top with whipped cream and a dash of ground cinnamon.

ESPRESSO COCONUT RUM.

Add 1 teaspoon of Malibu rum to 1 shot of hot espresso. Malibu rum is made in Barbados with natural coconut extract. Top with a bit of whipped cream and a garnish of lightly toasted flaked coconut. A spirited accompaniment to Clare's "Bar-ista" Special Macaroons. (See recipe on page 339.)

COFFEE SYRUPS.

FLAVORED syrups date back to antiquity, when honey was used as a preservative for fresh fruit juices so that flavored drinks could be enjoyed all year long. As time went on, syrups evolved into flavors such as mint, orange, lemon, and almond and became a popular way to mix a refreshing drink. These days in Europe, flavored syrups are added to sparkling water to make classic "Italian sodas," while in North America, they are more commonly found as a way to flavor a coffeehouse latte or cappuccino.

The flavored latte revolution is actually a very recent one. As the story goes, a coffee industry veteran named "Brandy" Brandenburger noticed bottles of Torani brand syrup behind a counter in San Francisco's Caffe Trieste. These bottles were being used to create Italian sodas, but Brandy decided to bring home a bottle and experiment with espresso and steamed milk, and voila! The first flavored caffe latte was born! By the 1990s, adding syrups to espressos, lattes, and cappuccinos was an idea that had spread across the United States.

These days, there are a dizzying array of syrup flavors to choose from-not just vanilla, chocolate, caramel, and hazelnut, but also butter rum, carrot cake, chocolate chip, maple spice, eggnog, English toffee, pistachio, pina co lada, roasted chestnut, tiramisu, toasted marshmallow, and many, many many more! The possibilities for flavor combinations alone can make your head spin-and your mouth water. more! The possibilities for flavor combinations alone can make your head spin-and your mouth water.

As far as what brand of syrup to buy, coffeehouse pros will usually advise you to look for quality syrups that use pure cane sugar as the sweetening agent. Here are three great brand names to get you started. Go to their Web sites to learn more about the flavors they offer and where to purchase them. These sites are great. They even offer recipes! (Note: If any company does not sell its syrups directly to you from its Web site, just look for the link on the site where it suggests online retailers that do do sell to the public.) sell to the public.)

Torani-This is the oldest American brand of gourmet syrup, started in 1925 by Italian immigrants in San Francisco. www.torani.com

Monin-Monin was founded in France in 1912. Enjoyed for nearly a century by Europeans, it came to the American market in the early 1990s. www.monin.com

DaVinci Gourmet-This respected brand was launched in Seattle in 1989. www.davincigourmet.com

Tips for Using Gourmet Coffee Syrups

No need to add sugar-I love this. When you add a syrup to a drink (whether it's a latte, a steamer, or a cold sparkling water), you're automatically sweetening it, so there's no need to add more sugar. One tablespoon of syrup equals about 1 teaspoons of sugar and and it brings plenty of flavor to the party, too, not just sweetness. (Sugar-free syrups are also available.) it brings plenty of flavor to the party, too, not just sweetness. (Sugar-free syrups are also available.) Italian sodas-Just as the Europeans do, you can mix syrup flavors with sparkling water to create your own Italian sodas at home.

Cremosa-A cremosa is an Italian soda with a little cream, milk, or half-and-half added.

Steamer-A steamer is a latte without without the espresso, and it's great for kids or for someone who likes the idea of a delicious, warm latte but doesn't want any caffeine. Simply warm some milk in a saucepan and add the syrup as a jazzy alternative to hot cocoa. A gingerbread-caramel steamer, chocolate-chestnut steamer, or eggnog-butter rum steamer, for example, would be delicious to serve around the holidays. Just look for those syrup flavors among the brands on the market. the espresso, and it's great for kids or for someone who likes the idea of a delicious, warm latte but doesn't want any caffeine. Simply warm some milk in a saucepan and add the syrup as a jazzy alternative to hot cocoa. A gingerbread-caramel steamer, chocolate-chestnut steamer, or eggnog-butter rum steamer, for example, would be delicious to serve around the holidays. Just look for those syrup flavors among the brands on the market.