1. Knit 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * across, ending with knit 2.

2. Slip 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat, ending with purl 1, knit 1.

3. Slip 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat, ending with knit 2.

Repeat last two rows until you have 32 rows in pattern, then knit 10 rows plain for top of pocket and bind off.

To make up the coat, first press the border of fronts; stretch into shape, pin to an ironing-board, cover with a damp cloth and press with a fairly hot iron until the cloth is dry. This will prevent the coat from drawing up, as the ribs are inclined to do. For sewing, use a blunt-pointed needle to avoid splitting the wool. Sew up the side and shoulder-seams, taking a st.i.tch from each edge and keeping the edges perfectly even, being careful not to draw the sewing-yarn so tightly as to pucker the seam in the least. Sew up the sleeves, and place the sleeve-seam an inch to the front of the side-seam, easing in any fulness there is around the top. Place the center of collar at center of back before sewing on; this must be done on right side of coat, and the collar turned over. Sew on the pockets, matching the ridges, and sew on five pearl or bone b.u.t.tons, about three-fourths of an inch in diameter, to correspond with the b.u.t.tonholes, placing a small pearl b.u.t.ton at the back of the larger one on wrong side of coat and sewing through both together.

This coat measures twenty-six inches from shoulder to hem. It may easily be made longer, if desired, but the model is an excellent one for ordinary wear, and very "natty," and it has the merit of being quickly knitted.

As has been suggested, a good way to do, when knitting a sweater in any st.i.tch, is to have a pattern and work to fit that. First, have a coat cut from any old cloth, and of any style desired. Seam it up and try it on, having it fitted nicely, then cut along the seam and take apart.

Fasten the different parts on a smooth surface by means of thumbtacks and knit to measure, without stretching your work.

Ladies' Sweater

[Ill.u.s.tration: Ladies' Sweater]

This sweater requires five skeins of knitting-worsted, and four b.a.l.l.s of Angora; electric blue for the body of the garment, and gray Angora were combined in the model, but other colors may be chosen at pleasure. The work is done in plain knitting, back and forth, with ribbed belt. With the knitting-worsted and No. 5 needles, cast on 119 st.i.tches for the back, which will measure about twenty-four inches, and knit 48 ribs, or 96 rows. Next row, * narrow, knit 4; repeat from *. Then change to No.

12 steel needles and do 20 rows in triple rib (knit 3, purl 3) for the belt. Change to No. 5 needles and knit 20 ribs; then decrease 1 st.i.tch at end of needle every other row five times. Knit 29 ribs plain, or without decreasing. Next row, knit 34 st.i.tches, slip them on to a spare needle, bind off 21 st.i.tches for neck, and on the remaining 34 st.i.tches, knit 4 ribs; then cast on 30 st.i.tches at the neck, knit 29 ribs, increase 1 st.i.tch at armhole every other row five times, and knit 22 ribs plain. Change to the steel needles, and work the belt as directed for the back, (purl 3, knit 3,) starting from front edge. Having completed the belt--20 rows of triple rib--change to No. 5 needles; *

knit 4, increase 1 st.i.tch, repeat from *. Then knit 48 ribs and bind off on the wrong side. Knit the other front to correspond, omitting b.u.t.tonholes if these are used.

For the sleeve: Working on right side of sweater, pick up 1 st.i.tch on each rib around the armhole, 72 st.i.tches in all; knit 8 ribs, then decrease 1 st.i.tch at each end of needle every 8th rib, eight times.

Change to steel needles and knit 12 ribs for the wrist; change to the larger (No. 5) needles, * knit 4, narrow; repeat across, then knit 12 ribs, join the Angora, knit 7 ribs, and bind off.

Collar: Using No. 5 needles and the knitting-worsted, cast on 65 st.i.tches; knit 28 ribs. Join the Angora wool, knit 11 rows, increasing 1 st.i.tch at each end of needle every other row, and bind off. Working on right side of collar pick up 1 st.i.tch on each rib at the side, knit 11 rows, increasing 1 st.i.tch every other row toward the corner and keeping the neck edge even, and bind off. Make the other side of collar to correspond and sew up the mitered corners. The border of Angora wool may be as much wider as one chooses to make it by adding more rows or ribs.

Two large b.u.t.tons covered with the knitting-worsted--either knitted or crocheted--and furnished with a loop sewed on each side, are used to fasten the belt.

For the b.u.t.tons: Using a bone hook which will carry the yarn, make a chain of 3 st.i.tches, turn, and in 2d st.i.tch of chain make 8 doubles; in next round make 2 doubles in each st.i.tch, working in both veins so there will be no rib; then make 1 double in 1st st.i.tch, 2 in next, and repeat.

Continue to work around and around until you have a circle which will cover the b.u.t.ton-mold--5 rounds in all were required for top of b.u.t.tons used on model, work around without widening, slip in the mold, then *

miss 1, a double in next, and repeat until the cover is closed. If preferred, knit a tiny square as you did the body of the garment; and use this to cover the mold, drawing it snugly over, and fastening underneath. For the loop, make a chain of 30 st.i.tches, turn and make a double in each st.i.tch; fasten securely beneath the b.u.t.ton.

Ladies' Knitted Gloves with Fancy Backs

[Ill.u.s.tration: Ladies' Knitted Gloves with Fancy Backs]

Use No. 16 steel needles, with Spanish knitting-yarn or worsted. Cast on 57 st.i.tches.

1. Purl 2, slip and bind, (over, knit 1) 5 times, over, narrow, purl 2, knit 6; repeat twice.

2. Purl 2, knit 13, purl 2, knit 6; repeat.

3. Purl 2, slip and bind, knit 9, narrow, purl 2, knit 6; repeat.

4. Purl 2, slip and bind, knit 7, narrow, purl 2, knit 6; repeat.

5. Same as 4th row.

6. Purl 2, slip and bind, (over, knit 1) 5 times, over, narrow, purl 2, take 3 of the 6 st.i.tches off on a separate needle, hold this at back of work, knit next 3 st.i.tches, then knit the 3 on separate needle; repeat.

Continue in pattern, twisting the "cable" as directed every 6th row, until the wrist is seven patterns in length. Then carry one cable up back of hand, with an openwork stripe each side, and knit plain across palm.

Commence thumb at top of wrist. As the gloves are right and left, care must be taken in starting the thumb so that both will not be for the same hand. On the left-hand glove the thumb is started at right of the stripe, on the right-hand glove at the left of stripe. Begin thumb with widen, knit 1, widen; knit 3 rows as usual, then widen, knit 3, widen; continue in this way until you have widened the thumb to 17 st.i.tches.

Put these on 2 needles, on a 3d needle cast on 7 st.i.tches, join and knit once around, in each of next 3 rounds narrow 1 of the 7 st.i.tches, arrange the st.i.tches evenly on 3 needles, knit two inches, then narrow at end of each needle until you have 6 remaining, put these on 2 needles and bind off.

Continuing with the hand, pick up the 7 st.i.tches cast on at base of thumb, knit to the base of the little finger, and divide the st.i.tches on 2 needles, or, if more convenient, take them off on a twine. For the little finger: Take 8 st.i.tches from back needle and 8 from front, and cast on 6 st.i.tches, knit once around plain, narrow off 1 of the 6 st.i.tches in each of next 5 rounds, knit 2 inches, narrow 1 st.i.tch at end of each needle until 6 st.i.tches remain, put these on 2 needles and bind off.

First Finger: Pick up the 6 st.i.tches cast on for little finger, knit to the middle, take 8 st.i.tches from each side next the thumb, cast on 6 st.i.tches for inside of finger, knit once around plain, in next 4 rounds narrow off 1 of the 6 st.i.tches, knit two and one-half inches, and finish off as before.

Third Finger: Pick up the 6 st.i.tches cast on for first finger, knit them, knit plain, leaving 9 st.i.tches toward little finger, putting these on separate needle, 9 st.i.tches from other side, cast on 6 st.i.tches, knit until you get to those left for little finger, narrow 1 of these and 1 of the 6 each time around for 6 rounds, knit two and one-half inches, and finish off as directed.

Middle Finger: Pick up the 6 from last finger, knit around plain, proceed as directed for third finger, knit two and three-fourths inches plain and finish off.

Knitted Slippers with Ermine Tr.i.m.m.i.n.g

[Ill.u.s.tration: Knitted Bedroom-Slippers with Ermine Tr.i.m.m.i.n.g]

Materials required are three skeins fourfold Germantown yarn, two colors, and one yard of ribbon. Pink and white yarn, with a little black, and pink ribbon are used for the slippers ill.u.s.trated.

Cast on 15 st.i.tches with white yarn, using medium-size steel needles.

Knit back and forth until you have a perfect square of white, then join the color. The square is for the toe of slipper.

Knit back and forth on the 15 st.i.tches until you have a strip long enough to extend around the sole of slipper and join to the square on other side, leaving two sides and one corner for the toe.

Darn the white with black; beginning at lower right-hand corner, bring the needle through the first two ribs and down between next two, miss three ribs, keeping the long thread on the wrong side, and repeat, having every other row alternate. This may be done before the strip is joined to opposite side of square, if more convenient. Sew to the sole, using strong thread and over-and-over st.i.tches. The strip should be stretched somewhat during the sewing, in order to make the slipper cling well to the foot.

For the border: Cast on 10 st.i.tches with white and knit plain, back and forth, until the strip is long enough to go around the top. Darn with the black yarn, making three rows, over one rib and under three, alternating the st.i.tches. Sew to top of slipper, turn back, and put on the bows.

These slippers are very easily knitted, extremely pretty and may be made to fit any size of sole. For a larger slipper cast on an additional number of st.i.tches for the square, which will make the strip proportionally wider; knit it long enough for the larger sole, and make the border wider, if desired. A smaller slipper is begun with less st.i.tches, following the same general directions.

Babies' Long Bootees