Guernsey Pictorial Directory and Stranger's Guide.

by Thomas Bellamy.

PREFACE.

The Guides. .h.i.therto tendered the public, having in some measure fallen short of furnishing the Stranger with a just notion of the island and its interior beauty, from want of ill.u.s.tration and leisure for natural observation; the Author of the following desultory pages, flatters himself by simplicity of arrangement, utility of matter, and a few tail-pieces strongly ill.u.s.trative of native scenery, to introduce a bearing towards the same: and here it is but just to remark that his daily memoranda during his temporary sojourn has been the chief source of his information, which, if deemed of sufficient importance to attract the attention of strangers, he solicits for it that candour, which he has some right to claim when he labours for the welfare of others, and is anxious only for the information of the visitor. It now only remains to render a fit apology for the inaccuracy of some of the wood-cuts, and the disproportion of others; which if duly considered, in connexion with the work, as being executed by one hand, together with the views, within the short s.p.a.ce of five months, perhaps will be sufficient. However, the Author takes this opportunity of mentioning, that should he be so far encouraged as to issue a second edition, he trusts his friends and others will favor him with their drawings, especially upon such things appertaining unto the antiquity, architecture, botany and natural history of the island. Hitherto, at the suggestion of others, he laments having borrowed many of his views from by-gone works, which on being compared with the original of the day, have fallen considerably short of truth, especially as regards the improved character of sylvan and other extensive ornamental innovation; and, in this respect, he alludes chiefly to the country churches, which though in all their architectural portions are confessedly correct, nevertheless in the back scenery are somewhat defective. He likewise acknowledges with much pleasure that he is indebted for three of the engravings to two gentlemen, whose native talents are an ornament to the island; he alludes to Mr F. C.

Lukis, and Mr Charles Mac Culloch; also for some excellent information from Col. Lane, Mr John Allaire, jun., and several others.

To conclude, the stranger is begged to understand, that as he may occasionally fall in with the word "Baillif," it is used in direct contradistinction to the English word "Bailiff," which if properly rendered signifies a menial or subordinate officer, whereas "Baillif" of Guernsey carries the important meaning of chief magistrate or judge.

_Guernsey, August 7, 1843._

GUERNSEY

Is situate in the great gulf or bay of St Michael, in the English Channel, 7 to 8 leagues West of the Norman coast, but subject to the British Crown, and frequently treated of in topographical works, under article Southamptonshire. It lieth between 49d. 24m. and 49d. 33m. North lat., and 2d. 32m. and 2d. 48m. West longitude. It is distant about 108 miles South-West of Southampton; 99 miles South-West of Portsmouth; 90 miles South-East from Plymouth, and 61 miles South of Portland. In relation to others of the Channel Islands, it is 7 leagues North of Jersey; 5 leagues South-West of Alderney; and 2 leagues West of Serk. The two last are dependencies of Guernsey, as are also Herm and Jethou, which serve to shelter the roadstead, that otherwise would be of no importance. In approach, the sh.o.r.es of Guernsey do not present the same attractions as those of Jersey, being altogether more sterile, and of a less fertile aspect. The form of the island is triangular, and its whole circ.u.mference upwards of thirty miles, and is deeply indented with commodious bays and harbours. Its length from North-East to South-West is twelve miles; its breadth from North to South about nine, and contains twenty-four square miles, or fifteen thousand three hundred and sixty acres, and about four thousand and seventy houses, with a fluctuating population of from 25,000 to 30,000 inhabitants.

The face of the country is varied with gentle risings and hills, being watered with springs, ponds, and fine clear gravelly brooks, many of which are constantly employed in turning over-shot mill-wheels. On the North or vale side, the coast, with the exception of a few cairns and risings, is generally low and flat, making a gradual elevation from a level very little above high-water mark, to the South side, which is beautifully intersected by deep ravines and craggy hills, for the most part covered with wild herbage, on the whole forming a true miniature representation of Welch scenery, the crags rising precipitately to the height of 280 feet above the level of the sea.

For considerable distances off the land, the island is circ.u.mgirt with sharp sunken rocks, which together with the line of breast-works, batteries, and a regular and efficiently supplied fort and citadel, renders it upon the whole almost impregnable.

[Ill.u.s.tration: A View of rough Sea, near Richmond.]

Formerly, in the Valle, there was a n.o.ble sheet of water, extending for upwards of two miles in length and one in breadth, which of late years, by great labour and expence has been drained off. At present, it is an inland marsh, but a vestige of the pool may still be seen throughout the winter months, as inundating a s.p.a.ce of about three acres a little to the West of Noirmont, and which may be plainly seen from Grandes Roques and the road leading thereto.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Grande Mare.]

The inhabitants have still a few small and convenient fish-ponds, and one the property of Mr Arnold, near the Valle church, when full, is upwards of three acres, has pleasure boats on it, and abounds in excellent fish, such as tench, mullet and eels; which latter, properly speaking, are the only kind that inhabit the rivulets and fresh water pools of the island.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Mr Arnold's House and Pool.]

The houses lie scattered throughout the island; mansions, farm-houses, and even cottages being excellently built; and if not pleasantly surrounded with orchards, trees and shrubs, at least with neat little gardens, flowers-beds and bowers. Most of the mansions have green-houses, for a late paper says, "in our country rambles we took many a peep into the kitchen-gardens and green-houses, and were highly gratified in observing the paths syringed and fresh, and sickly plants watered at the roots with liquid manure: and were careful to note in thinning them they went over twice instead of all at once; which we understood to be much better, as they avoided wounding them. They examined newly budded stocks, which were secured by tying to the tree, and encouraged by removing suckers and buds beneath. They disbudded wall-trees, and nailed in the young shoots, as they became sufficiently advanced; moved earth frequently with the spade under the walls, and slipped off all infected shoots," &c.

Indeed, whatsoever direction one takes from St Peter-Port, the capital and only town in the island, he is sure to fall in with indications of wealth, refinement and good taste; and if he cannot exactly decide on the splendour of architectural finish, he will at least discern something beyond the usual order, that evidently mark competence and ease. This unique appearance is not only confined to the houses, for with scarcely an exception every detached house has some elegant ground tastefully arranged into a lawn replete with beautiful and rare shrubs, which, for the most part, are kept in tolerable condition, and their foliage allowed to droop gracefully on either side of a small winding carriage-road. In this respect, perhaps the Grange, the Rohais, and the St Andrew's roads may appear most conspicuous, and even the cottages, in these, and many other parts of the suburbs, a.s.sume a very different aspect to what they usually do in England and the sister-isle; for here, even in the less respectable parts of the town, small cottages, having gardens, afford generally a good display of jonquils, pansies, ranunculuses, polyanthus, hyacinths, daisies, anemones, &c., which in some front gardens are excellently arranged, whereas in others, from lack of room, are entirely omitted, but have in their place a mossy lawn and a few exotic shrubs, elegantly arranged, which considerably heightens their respectability and effect.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Mont Durant House.]

The residence of the wealthy Mr John Allaire, proprietor of the island of Jethou, and other considerable estates in Guernsey.

On the opposite side of the road, is Summerland, the property of Tupper Carey, Esq., remarkable for its castellated style of building, some gay green views, and a variety of elegant adjoining grounds.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Summerland.]

On the Rohais road may be seen Hirzelbourne, a kind of Indian villa, the property of Captain De Lisle, which unfortunately is nearly concealed from public view by a lofty wall.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Hirzelbourne.]

A little below is Frogmore, the residence of Dr Carey, remarkable for its ponderous veranda, whimsically constructed of rustic elm-stumps. The adjoining grounds are neat, and the gardens may be said to be tastefully arranged.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Frogmore.]

At Pet.i.te-Marche, is the mansion of Sir Thomas Saumarez, heavily shrouded in front by dense shrubberies, and open in the back to sloping meads, well studded with trees. From the lawn there is also a fine view of the isles of Serk, Herm, and Jethou.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Sir Thomas Saumarez's House.]

The view of the town from this spot, is very excellent, and from a drawing as given in Jacob's Annals, would appear to be much admired.

[Ill.u.s.tration: View taken from the back of Sir Thomas Saumarez's House.]

Opposite is Belmont, the residence of Mr William Brock, so much admired for its foliage and timber, being circ.u.mgirt on all sides with trees of no ordinary size, that would in fact be no small appendage to a n.o.bleman's domain. It is to be lamented that many of the trees are now being cut down.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Mr Brock's house.]

Adjoining l'Hyvreuse, or New Ground, is Castle Carey, which has so truly a picturesque effect from the sea and Castle Cornet. (_Vide Trees, Directory._)

[Ill.u.s.tration: Castle Carey.]

As we diverge from the town, villas become larger until they in almost every respect a.s.sume the air and character of n.o.blemen's seats, and perhaps as such Havilland Hall would fall in ident.i.ty with those of England, as it is a n.o.ble quadangular building, supported in front by four lofty columns, and is the present residence of the Governor, General Napier. Connected with the building are s.p.a.cious grounds and plantations which consist of beautiful meadows through which babbles a rippling brook. At the foot of this splendid mansion, or rather on the other side of the valley, is the family farm and dairy which is got up much after the English style, the whole being the properly of Col. De Havilland, a native of the Island.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Havilland Hall.]

The scenery in Guernsey, generally speaking, is not much enriched with sylvan beauty, and perhaps the above mansion, together with St George, and Woodlands are the most conspicuous. Although a dense wood or coppice is hardly known here, nevertheless, there is a good sprinkling of elm and other timber; the former of which is of a peculiar growth and quality, being in its structure not much unlike the poplar. The fields are commonly divided by hedge rows of oak, elm and ash, but in the lowland districts of the Valle with turf banks, surmounted with furze, which grows rapidly for three years, when it is cut for fuel. Should the ground be too wet and swampy for the growth of furze, stone fences are adopted in its stead.

It has been said the social interchanges of life have been much embarra.s.sed among those who dwell in the capital by too nice an attention to the different cla.s.ses or gradations of rank, in preference to a selection of company founded on the claims of merit and good fellowship; and that the same has been deemed ridiculous and troublesome, insomuch that it even descends to the retail traders of so small an Island possessing no native n.o.bility. The answer to this is quickly reb.u.t.ted when we deliberately dwell on the proper and just position of a society within a small circ.u.mference, who have a moral as well as judicial example to bestrew, lest by too close a connection the stream be defiled, and that excellent justice for which Guernsey has been so long famous, become corrupt and contaminated. Perhaps speaking with evenness and temperament, no spot in the world for upwards of half a century has put forth such pure and undefiled justice as Guernsey, for the rigorous exaction of which the main bulk of the present population feel themselves indebted to their late venerable and respected bailiff.[A]

[A] Daniel De Lisle Brock, Esq., died Sept. 24, 1842.

It has also been stated that mediocrity, rather bordering on poverty prevail throughout the country, and a rigid economy consequently practised.

An a.s.sertion of this kind may do well abroad, and private pique may go much towards its aggrandizement; but the stranger who by integrity has upheld himself amongst us, would for the love of candour be the first to give a retrograde evidence, and to establish a cause, which for the sake of truth we fain would plead. It has been acknowledged by those who have left us, the community of Guernsey is the happiest they have ever fell in with, and one in particular says: "The pictures of want, filth, and crime, which so frequently shock the eye of humanity in our own country, and which appear to an extraordinary extent in Ireland, and in the county of Dorset, are not to be met with in Guernsey; but in their stead are to be seen happy signs of abundance, comfort and contentment. Contrary to Dorset and Somerset the poor man has his neat little house, is surrounded by his cheerful family, and is under no apprehension that he shall not be able, with moderate labour, to provide a full meal and a comfortable lodging, for all who are dependent on him. What are the causes of this superior state of things in Guernsey? Why is it, that within so short a distance of the above places where the pining labourer is but half fed and half clad, the man of Guernsey should have a well stored board and abundance of clothing? The climate is not peculiar; the land is not remarkably fertile; yea, many parts of England are quite equal to Guernsey in both these particulars. How then is it that Guernsey should be so much a-head in the career of happiness? Guernsey has superior laws--superior inst.i.tutions, and the state of things in Guernsey is one among the thousand proofs that have been given, that the prosperity and happiness of a people are much more dependent on its laws, inst.i.tutions, and the manner which its government is carried on, than on climate and fertility of soil. I have twice visited the Island of Guernsey under circ.u.mstances favourable for becoming acquainted with its condition: and in the hopes of directing general attention to a model from which even a nation might derive advantage."

One of the most striking changes which the visitor, whether from England or France, meets with on his landing in Guernsey, is the entire absence of beggars; which are so truly abundant in England, especially in the pauper districts of Dorset and Ireland. That miserable compound of imposture and real distress--the wandering mendicant--is there unknown. A tradesman who has been established at St Peter-Port for upwards of thirty years, a.s.sured me that during the whole period of his residence in the Island he has never once seen a beggar. For myself I neither saw nor heard of one; and I was satisfied, from all I learnt, that a beggar in Guernsey is a being of a past age--a creation of history--a fit subject for the speculation of the antiquary--but too completely covered with the dust of ancient times, for those of the present day to examine. Not only is the island free from beggars, but it is free also from those debasing but unfortunate creatures whom the twilight of evening brings forth from their hiding places, like swarms of moths, to join the giddy dance round the flame that is soon to destroy them. Prost.i.tution proceeds from the same sources as mendicity--want and ignorance; and where the latter is not found, the former will rarely be met with. Be that as it may, however, the fact is, that the streets and roads of Guernsey are not disgraced by the appearance either of the prost.i.tute or the beggar.

St Peter-Port, the capital, is situate on the profile of a hill about the middle of the East coast, and extends for a considerable distance, the streets in the old town being narrow, whilst those of the upper or new one are very superior, but having the appearance of being built in valleys. On being slightly acquainted with the town, the stranger's uppermost remark is always the number of steps, when he is apt to exclaim: "There is no end to them!" The opening of a new street, the erection of a market-house, and the purchase of the adjacent land cost the States 80,000, the profits of which enabled them to erect a fish-market on a magnificent scale. The public buildings around are extensive and handsome, and consist chiefly of the Mechanics' Library, a semi-arcade of shops, and the a.s.sembly Rooms opposite, underneath which is the Poultry Market.

[Ill.u.s.tration: a.s.sembly Rooms and Market-Place.]

Besides this the town boasts of a s.p.a.cious Court of Justice, a Prison, Hospital, Public Libraries, Theatre, Billiard Rooms, Reading Rooms, &c.

The Harbour is the most inferior appendage to the town, being only surrounded by a pier of loose stones, not having mortar or anything withal to bind them together, and only extending Northward 460 feet by 757 Southwards. Plans upon plans have from time to time been laid down for a new one, but hitherto the States have not summed up resolution enough to accede to them. One would suppose it had never been touched since king James granted the _Pet.i.te Coutume_, which was a levy on the imported commodities and native manufacture of the island, for the support of the same.

The entrance of the pier is defended by Castle Cornet, a fortress built on a rock, well defended by batteries on all sides, and is about a quarter of a mile from the pier head. It commands a fine view of the town, harbour, heights, and adjacent isles, and may be esteemed an interesting object from the land. It has a signal post which announces every vessel sailing for or pa.s.sing the island; as also a flag-staff on which is hoisted the British flag in fine weather and on extraordinary occasions. It is supposed to have taken its name from the distinguished family of Cornet, who are mentioned as being present at the dedication of the Town Church. The Castle contains artillery and infantry barracks, and several ammunition stores sufficient to admit of about three hundred barrels of gunpowder, and a proportionable supply of shot.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Castle Cornet.]