D is not well developed in the line of this section; but seaward it expands into a plain: it is not present on the south side of the valley; but it is met with, as stated under the former section, a little south of the town.

E is well developed on the south side, but absent on the north side of the valley: though not continuously united with E of Figure 9, it apparently corresponds with it.

F. This is the surface-plain, and is continuously united with that which stretches like a fringe along the coast. In ascending the valley it gradually becomes narrower, and is at last, at the distance of about ten miles from the sea, reduced to a row of flat-topped patches on the sides of the mountains. None of the lower terraces extend so far up the valley.)

We come now to the terraces on the opposite sides of the east and west valley of Coquimbo: the section in Figure 10 is taken in a north and south line across the valley at a point about three miles from the sea. The valley measured from the edges of the escarpments of the upper plain FF is about a mile in width; but from the bases of the bounding mountains it is from three to four miles wide. The terraces marked with an interrogative do not exist on that side of the valley, but are introduced merely to render the diagram more intelligible.

These five terraces are formed of shingle and sand; three of them, as marked by Captain B. Hall (namely, B, C, and F), are much more conspicuous than the others. From the marine remains copiously strewed at the mouth of the valley on the lower terraces, and southward of the town on the upper one, they are, as before remarked, undoubtedly of marine origin; but within the valley, and this fact well deserves notice, at a distance of from only a mile and a half to three or four miles from the sea, I could not find even a fragment of a sh.e.l.l.

ON THE INCLINATION OF THE TERRACES OF COQUIMBO, AND ON THE UPPER AND BASAL EDGES OF THEIR ESCARPMENTS NOT BEING HORIZONTAL.

The surfaces of these terraces slope in a slight degree, as shown by the sections in Figures 9 and 10 taken conjointly, both towards the centre of the valley, and seawards towards its mouth. This double or diagonal inclination, which is not the same in the several terraces, is, as we shall immediately see, of simple explanation. There are, however, some other points which at first appear by no means obvious,--namely, first, that each terrace, taken in its whole breadth from the summit-edge of one escarpment to the base of that above it, and followed up the valley, is not horizontal; nor have the several terraces, when followed up the valley, all the same inclination; thus I found the terraces C, E, and F, measured at a point about two miles from the mouth of the valley, stood severally between fifty-six to seventy-seven feet higher than at the mouth. Again, if we look to any one line of cliff or escarpment, neither its summit-edge nor its base is horizontal. On the theory of the terraces having been formed during a slow and equable rise of the land, with as many intervals of rest as there are escarpments, it appears at first very surprising that horizontal lines of some kind should not have been left on the land.

The direction of the diagonal inclination in the different terraces being different,--in some being directed more towards the middle of the valley, in others more towards its mouth,--naturally follows on the view of each terrace, being an acc.u.mulation of successive beach-lines round bays, which must have been of different forms and sizes when the land stood at different levels: for if we look to the actual beach of a narrow creek, its slope is directed towards the middle; whereas, in an open bay, or slight concavity on a coast, the slope is towards the mouth, that is, almost directly seaward; hence as a bay alters in form and size, so will the direction of the inclination of its successive beaches become changed.

(FIGURE 11. DIAGRAM OF A BAY IN A DISTRICT WHICH HAS BEGUN SLOWLY RISING)

If it were possible to trace any one of the many beach-lines, composing each sloping terrace, it would of course be horizontal; but the only lines of demarcation are the summit and basal edges of the escarpments. Now the summit-edge of one of these escarpments marks the furthest line or point to which the sea has cut into a ma.s.s of gravel sloping seaward; and as the sea will generally have greater power at the mouth than at the protected head of the bay, so will the escarpment at the mouth be cut deeper into the land, and its summit-edge be higher; consequently it will not be horizontal. With respect to the basal or lower edges of the escarpments, from picturing in one's mind ancient bays ENTIRELY surrounded at successive periods by cliff-formed sh.o.r.es, one's first impression is that they at least necessarily must be horizontal, if the elevation has been horizontal.

But here is a fallacy: for after the sea has, during a cessation of the elevation, worn cliffs all round the sh.o.r.es of a bay, when the movement recommences, and especially if it recommences slowly, it might well happen that, at the exposed mouth of the bay, the waves might continue for some time wearing into the land, whilst in the protected and upper parts successive beach-lines might be acc.u.mulating in a sloping surface or terrace at the foot of the cliffs which had been lately reached: hence, supposing the whole line of escarpment to be finally uplifted above the reach of the sea, its basal line or foot near the mouth will run at a lower level than in the upper and protected parts of the bay; consequently this basal line will not be horizontal. And it has already been shown that the summit-edges of each escarpment will generally be higher near the mouth (from the seaward sloping land being there most exposed and cut into) than near the head of the bay; therefore the total height of the escarpments will be greatest near the mouth; and further up the old bay or valley they will on both sides generally thin out and die away: I have observed this thinning out of the successive escarpment at other places besides Coquimbo; and for a long time I was quite unable to understand its meaning. The rude diagram in Figure 11 will perhaps render what I mean more intelligible; it represents a bay in a district which has begun slowly rising. Before the movement commenced, it is supposed that the waves had been enabled to eat into the land and form cliffs, as far up, but with gradually diminishing power, as the points AA: after the movement had commenced and gone on for a little time, the sea is supposed still to have retained the power, at the exposed mouth of the bay, of cutting down and into the land as it slowly emerged; but in the upper parts of the bay it is supposed soon to have lost this power, owing to the more protected situation and to the quant.i.ty of detritus brought down by the river; consequently low land was there acc.u.mulated. As this low land was formed during a slow elevatory movement, its surface will gently slope upwards from the beach on all sides. Now, let us imagine the bay, not to make the diagram more complicated, suddenly converted into a valley: the basal line of the cliffs will of course be horizontal, as far as the beach is now seen extending in the diagram; but in the upper part of the valley, this line will be higher, the level of the district having been raised whilst the low land was acc.u.mulating at the foot of the inland cliffs. If, instead of the bay in the diagram being suddenly converted into a valley, we suppose with much more probability it to be upraised slowly, then the waves in the upper parts of the bay will continue very gradually to fail to reach the cliffs, which are now in the diagram represented as washed by the sea, and which, consequently, will be left standing higher and higher above its level; whilst at the still exposed mouth, it might well happen that the waves might be enabled to cut deeper and deeper, both down and into the cliffs, as the land slowly rose.

The greater or lesser destroying power of the waves at the mouths of successive bays, comparatively with this same power in their upper and protected parts, will vary as the bays become changed in form and size, and therefore at different levels, at their mouths and heads, more or less of the surfaces between the escarpments (that is, the acc.u.mulated beach-lines or terraces) will be left undestroyed: from what has gone before we can see that, according as the elevatory movements after each cessation recommence more or less slowly, according to the amount of detritus delivered by the river at the heads of the successive bays, and according to the degree of protection afforded by their altered forms, so will a greater or less extent of terrace be acc.u.mulated in the upper part, to which there will be no surface at a corresponding level at the mouth: hence we can perceive why no one terrace, taken in its whole breadth and followed up the valley, is horizontal, though each separate beach-line must have been so; and why the inclination of the several terraces, both transversely, and longitudinally up the valley, is not alike.

I have entered into this case in some detail, for I was long perplexed (and others have felt the same difficulty) in understanding how, on the idea of an equable elevation with the sea at intervals eating into the land, it came that neither the terraces nor the upper nor lower edges of the escarpments were horizontal. Along lines of coast, even of great lengths, such as that of Patagonia, if they are nearly uniformly exposed, the corroding power of the waves will be checked and conquered by the elevatory movement, as often as it recommences, at about the same period; and hence the terraces, or acc.u.mulated beach-lines, will commence being formed at nearly the same levels: at each succeeding period of rest, they will, also, be eaten into at nearly the same rate, and consequently there will be a much closer coincidence in their levels and inclinations, than in the terraces and escarpments formed round bays with their different parts very differently exposed to the action of the sea. It is only where the waves are enabled, after a long lapse of time, slowly to corrode hard rocks, or to throw up, owing to the supply of sediment being small and to the surface being steeply inclined, a narrow beach or mound, that we can expect, as at Glen Roy in Scotland ("Philosophical Transactions" 1839 page 39.), a distinct line marking an old sea-level, and which will be strictly horizontal, if the subsequent elevatory movements have been so: for in these cases no discernible effects will be produced, except during the long intervening periods of rest; whereas in the case of step-formed coasts, such as those described in this and the preceding chapter, the terraces themselves are acc.u.mulated during the slow elevatory process, the acc.u.mulation commencing sooner in protected than in exposed situations, and sooner where there is copious supply of detritus than where there is little; on the other hand, the steps or escarpments are formed during the stationary periods, and are more deeply cut down and into the coast-land in exposed than in protected situations;--the cutting action, moreover, being prolonged in the most exposed parts, both during the beginning and ending, if slow, of the upward movement.

Although in the foregoing discussion I have a.s.sumed the elevation to have been horizontal, it may be suspected, from the considerable seaward slope of the terraces, both up the valley of S. Cruz and up that of Coquimbo, that the rising has been greater inland than nearer the coast. There is reason to believe (Mr. Place in the "Quarterly Journal of Science" 1824 volume 17 page 42.), from the effects produced on the water-course of a mill during the earthquake of 1822 in Chile, that the upheaval one mile inland was nearly double, namely, between five and seven feet, to what it was on the Pacific. We know, also, from the admirable researches of M.

Bravais, that in Scandinavia the ancient sea-beaches gently slope from the interior mountain-ranges towards the coast, and that they are not parallel one to the other ("Voyages de la Comm. du Nord" etc. also "Comptes Rendus"

October 1842.), showing that the proportional difference in the amount of elevation on the coast and in the interior, varied at different periods.

COQUIMBO TO GUASCO.

In this distance of ninety miles, I found in almost every part marine sh.e.l.ls up to a height of apparently from two hundred to three hundred feet.

The desert plain near Choros is thus covered; it is bounded by the escarpment of a higher plain, consisting of pale-coloured, earthy, calcareous stone, like that of Coquimbo, with the same recent sh.e.l.ls embedded in it. In the valley of Chaneral, a similar bed occurs in which, differently from that of Coquimbo, I observed many sh.e.l.ls of the Concholepas: near Guasco the same calcareous bed is likewise met with.

In the valley of Guasco, the step-formed terraces of gravel are displaced in a more striking manner than at any other point. I followed the valley for thirty-seven miles (as reckoned by the inhabitants) from the coast to Ballenar; in nearly the whole of this distance, five grand terraces, running at corresponding heights on both sides of the broad valley, are more conspicuous than the three best-developed ones at Coquimbo. They give to the landscape the most singular and formal aspect; and when the clouds hung low, hiding the neighbouring mountains, the valley resembled in the most striking manner that of Santa Cruz. The whole thickness of these terraces or plains seems composed of gravel, rather firmly aggregated together, with occasional parting seams of clay: the pebbles on the upper plain are often whitewashed with an aluminous substance, as in Patagonia.

Near the coast I observed many sea-sh.e.l.ls on the lower plains. At Freyrina (twelve miles up the valley), there are six terraces beside the bottom- surface of the valley: the two lower ones are here only from two hundred to three hundred yards in width, but higher up the valley they expand into plains; the third terrace is generally narrow; the fourth I saw only in one place, but there it was distinct for the length of a mile; the fifth is very broad; the sixth is the summit-plain, which expands inland into a great basin. Not having a barometer with me, I did not ascertain the height of these plains, but they appeared considerably higher than those at Coquimbo. Their width varies much, sometimes being very broad, and sometimes contracting into mere fringes of separate flat-topped projections, and then quite disappearing: at the one spot, where the fourth terrace was visible, the whole six terraces were cut off for a short s.p.a.ce by one single bold escarpment. Near Ballenar (thirty-seven miles from the mouth of the river), the valley between the summit-edges of the highest escarpments is several miles in width, and the five terraces on both sides are broadly developed: the highest cannot be less than six hundred feet above the bed of the river, which itself must, I conceive, be some hundred feet above the sea.

A north and south section across the valley in this part is represented in Figure 12.

(FIGURE 12. NORTH AND SOUTH SECTION ACROSS THE VALLEY OF GUASCO, AND OF A PLAIN NORTH OF IT.

From left (north, high) to right (south, high) through plains B and A and the River of Guasco at the Town of Ballenar.)

On the northern side of the valley the summit-plain of gravel, A, has two escarpments, one facing the valley, and the other a great basin-like plain, B, which stretches for several leagues northward. This narrow plain, A, with the double escarpment, evidently once formed a spit or promontory of gravel, projecting into and dividing two great bays, and subsequently was worn on both sides into steep cliffs. Whether the several escarpments in this valley were formed during the same stationary periods with those of Coquimbo, I will not pretend to conjecture; but if so the intervening and subsequent elevatory movements must have been here much more energetic, for these plains certainly stand at a much higher level than do those of Coquimbo.

COPIAPO.

From Guasco to Copiapo, I followed the road near the foot of the Cordillera, and therefore saw no upraised remains. At the mouth, however, of the valley of Copiapo there is a plain, estimated by Meyen ("Reise um die Erde" th. 1 s. 372 et seq.) between fifty and seventy feet in height, of which the upper part consists chiefly of gravel, abounding with recent sh.e.l.ls, chiefly of the Concholepas, Venus Dombeyi, and Calyptraea trochiformis. A little inland, on a plain estimated by myself at nearly three hundred feet, the upper stratum was formed of broken sh.e.l.ls and sand cemented by white calcareous matter, and abounding with embedded recent sh.e.l.ls, of which the Mulinia Byronensis and Pecten purpuratus were the most numerous. The lower plain stretches for some miles southward, and for an unknown distance northward, but not far up the valley; its seaward face, according to Meyen, is worn into caves above the level of the present beach. The valley of Copiapo is much less steeply inclined and less direct in its course than any other valley which I saw in Chile; and its bottom does not generally consist of gravel: there are no step-formed terraces in it, except at one spot near the mouth of the great lateral valley of the Despoblado where there are only two, one above the other: lower down the valley, in one place I observed that the solid rock had been cut into the shape of a beach, and was smoothed over with shingle.

Northward of Copiapo, in lat.i.tude 26 degrees S., the old voyager Wafer found immense numbers of sea-sh.e.l.ls some miles from the coast. (Burnett's "Collection of Voyages" volume 4 page 193.) At Cobija (lat.i.tude 22 degrees 34') M. d'Orbigny observed beds of gravel and broken sh.e.l.ls, containing ten species of recent sh.e.l.ls; he also found, on projecting points of porphyry, at a height of 300 feet, sh.e.l.ls of Concholepas, Chiton, Calyptraea, Fissurella, and Patella, still attached to the spots on which they had lived. M. d'Orbigny argues from this fact, that the elevation must have been great and sudden ("Voyage, Part Geolog." page 94. M. d'Orbigny (page 98), in summing up, says: "S'il est certain (as he believes) que tous les terrains en pente, compris entre la mer et les montagnes sont l'ancien rivage de la mer, on doit supposer, pour l'ensemble, un exhauss.e.m.e.nt que ce ne serait pas moindre de deux cent metres; il faudrait supposer encore que ce soulevement n'a point ete graduel;...mais qu'il resulterait d'une seule et meme cause fortuite," etc. Now, on this view, when the sea was forming the beach at the foot of the mountains, many sh.e.l.ls of Concholepas, Chiton, Calyptraea, Fissurella, and Patella (which are known to live close to the beach), were attached to rocks at a depth of 300 feet, and at a depth of 600 feet several of these same sh.e.l.ls were acc.u.mulating in great numbers in horizontal beds. From what I have myself seen in dredging, I believe this to be improbable in the highest degree, if not impossible; and I think everyone who has read Professor E. Forbes's excellent researches on the subject, will without hesitation agree in this conclusion.): to me it appears far more probable that the movement was gradual, with small starts as during the earthquakes of 1822 and 1835, by which whole beds of sh.e.l.ls attached to the rocks were lifted above the subsequent reach of the waves.

M. d'Orbigny also found rolled pebbles extending up the mountain to a height of at least six hundred feet. At Iquique (lat.i.tude 20 degrees 12'

S.), in a great acc.u.mulation of sand, at a height estimated between one hundred and fifty and two hundred feet, I observed many large sea-sh.e.l.ls which I thought could not have been blown up by the wind to that height.

Mr. J.H. Blake has lately described these sh.e.l.ls: he states that "inland toward the mountains they form a compact uniform bed, scarcely a trace of the original sh.e.l.ls being discernible; but as we approach the sh.o.r.e, the forms become gradually more distinct till we meet with the living sh.e.l.ls on the coast." ("Silliman's American Journal of Science" volume 44 page 2.) This interesting observation, showing by the gradual decay of the sh.e.l.ls how slowly and gradually the coast must have been uplifted, we shall presently see fully confirmed at Lima. At Arica (lat.i.tude 18 degrees 28'), M. d'Orbigny found a great range of sand-dunes, fourteen leagues in length, stretching towards Tacna, including recent sh.e.l.ls and bones of Cetacea, and reaching up to a height of 300 feet above the sea. ("Voyage" etc. page 101.) Lieutenant Freyer has given some more precise facts: he states (In a letter to Mr. Lyell "Geological Proceedings" volume 2 page 179.) that the Morro of Arica is about four hundred feet high; it is worn into obscure terraces, on the bare rock of which he found Balini and Milleporae adhering. At the height of between twenty and thirty feet the sh.e.l.ls and corals were in a quite fresh state, but at fifty feet they were much abraded; there were, however, traces of organic remains at greater heights.

On the road from Tacna to Arequipa, between Loquimbo and Moquegua, Mr. M.

Hamilton found numerous recent sea sh.e.l.ls in sand, at a considerable distance from the sea. ("Edinburgh New Philosophical Journal" volume 30 page 155.)

LIMA.

Northward of Arica, I know nothing of the coast for about a s.p.a.ce of five degrees of lat.i.tude; but near Callao, the port of Lima, there is abundant and very curious evidence of the elevation of the land. The island of San Lorenzo is upwards of one thousand feet high; the ba.s.set edges of the strata composing the lower part are worn into three obscure, narrow, sloping steps or ledges, which can be seen only when standing on them: they probably resemble those described by Lieutenant Freyer at Arica. The surface of the lower ledge, which extends from a low cliff overhanging the sea to the foot of the next upper escarpment, is covered by an enormous acc.u.mulation of recent sh.e.l.ls. (M. Chevalier, in the "Voyage of the 'Bonite'" observed these sh.e.l.ls; but his specimens were lost.--"L'Inst.i.tut"

1838 page 151.) The bed is level, and in some parts more than two feet in thickness; I traced it over a s.p.a.ce of one mile in length, and heard of it in other places: the uppermost part is eighty-five feet by the barometer above high-water mark. The sh.e.l.ls are packed together, but not stratified: they are mingled with earth and stones, and are generally covered by a few inches of detritus; they rest on a ma.s.s of nearly angular fragments of the underlying sandstone, sometimes cemented together by common salt. I collected eighteen species of sh.e.l.ls of all ages and sizes. Several of the univalves had evidently long lain dead at the bottom of the sea, for their INSIDES were incrusted with Balani and Serpulae. All, according to Mr. G.B.

Sowerby, are recent species: they consist of:--

1. Mytilus Magellanicus: same as that found at Valparaiso, and there stated to be probably distinct from the true M. Magellanicus of the east coast.

2. Venus costellata, Sowerby "Zoological Proceedings."

3. Pecten purpuratus, Lam.

4. Chama, probably echinulata, Brod.

5. Calyptraea Byronensis, Gray.

6. Calyptraea radians (Trochus, Lam.)

7. Fissurella affinis, Gray.

8. Fissurella biradiata, Trembly.

9. Purpura chocolatta, Duclos.

10. Purpura Peruviana, Gray.

11. Purpura l.a.b.i.ata, Gray.

12. Purpura buxea (Murex, Brod.).

13. Concholepas Peruviana.

14. Na.s.sa, related to reticulata.

15. Triton rudis, Brod.

16. Trochus, not yet described, but well-known and very common.

17 and 18. Bala.n.u.s, two species, both common on the coast.

These upraised sh.e.l.ls appear to be nearly in the same proportional numbers- -with the exception of the Crepidulae being more numerous--with those on the existing beach. The state of preservation of the different species differed much; but most of them were much corroded, brittle, and bleached: the upper and lower surfaces of the Concholepas had generally quite scaled off: some of the Trochi and Fissurellae still partially retain their colours. It is remarkable that these sh.e.l.ls, taken all together, have fully as ancient an appearance, although the extremely arid climate appears highly favourable for their preservation, as those from 1,300 feet at Valparaiso, and certainly a more ancient appearance than those from five to six hundred feet from Valparaiso and Concepcion; at which places I have seen gra.s.s and other vegetables actually growing out of the sh.e.l.ls. Many of the univalves here at San Lorenzo were filled with, and united together by, pure salt, probably left by the evaporation of the sea-spray, as the land slowly emerged. (The underlying sandstone contains true layers of salt; so that the salt may possibly have come from the beds in the higher parts of the island; but I think more probably from the sea-spray. It is generally a.s.serted that rain never falls on the coast of Peru; but this is not quite accurate; for, on several days, during our visit, the so-called Peruvian dew fell in sufficient quant.i.ty to make the streets muddy, and it would certainly have washed so deliquescent a substance as salt into the soil. I state this because M. d'Orbigny, in discussing an a.n.a.logous subject, supposes that I had forgotten that it never rains on this whole line of coast. See Ulloa's "Voyage" volume 2 English Translation page 67 for an account of the muddy streets of Lima, and on the continuance of the mists during the whole winter. Rain, also, falls at rare intervals even in the driest districts, as, for instance, during forty days, in 1726, at Chocope (7 degrees 46'); this rain entirely ruined ("Ulloa" etc. page 18) the mud houses of the inhabitants.) On the highest parts of the ledge, small fragments of the sh.e.l.ls were mingled with, and evidently in process of reduction into, a yellowish-white, soft, calcareous powder, tasting strongly of salt, and in some places as fine as prepared medicinal chalk.

FOSSIL-REMAINS OF HUMAN ART.