_Poppy-flowered Anemones_ (_A. fulgens_ and _A. coronaria_) are also easily grown in the same way. They come in a variety of colors, including reds, whites, and blues. They are very cheery little flowers, two inches or so across, and well worth giving a few pots to.

Several of the bulbs are easily grown in water, or pebbles and water, with no soil at all. The best known of these is the Chinese Sacred Lily.

The Golden Chinese Lily is not so well known but very desirable.

Hyacinths are easily grown in pure water; a special vase called the "hyacinth gla.s.s" being made for the purpose.

CHAPTER XVI

VERANDA BOXES, WINDOW-BOXES, VASES AND HANGING BASKETS

Many of the plants ordinarily set outdoors in pots, or planted in the flower beds, could be much more effectively used in veranda boxes, window-boxes, vases or hanging baskets.

The veranda boxes are generally about eight by six inches, made as described on page 9, and of the right length to fit some window-sill, or the corner or top of a veranda railing.

Arrangements for watering should be made as convenient as possible, as this work is almost sure to be more or less neglected during the hot months when it needs frequent and thorough attention. The soil used should be porous and very rich, as many plants will have to get their nourishment from a very limited s.p.a.ce.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Window-boxes are at their best when containing only one or two kinds of bloom, part of it hanging down]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Iceland poppies are not often seen in the window-box, as it takes many blooms to make a good showing]

[Ill.u.s.tration: It is not necessary to have your window garden consist of tomato cans or old saucers--a little ingenuity will suggest such improvements as this movable plant table]

The majority of the plants described in the foregoing pages may be utilized successfully in box work; which ones in any particular case should depend on circ.u.mstances, such for instance as whether the boxes will be in partial shade, or strong sunlight; or whether in a sheltered or a windswept position. A favorite combination is dracaenas, Nutt or Beaute Poitevine, with the variegated vinca as a front border. The lover of plants desirous of artistic effects will not be content, however, to go by fixed rules where so many opportunities for expression of individual taste are offered.

There are two warnings to be given in addition to the suggestions above.

Do not attempt to crowd too many plants into the small s.p.a.ce available; remember that as a safe rule the most pleasing results will be obtained by the use of a very few kinds and colors. A good way to be sure of not making mistakes is to fill the boxes to within three or four inches of the top, arrange the plants, still in their pots, until a satisfactory picture is designed, and then fill up with soil and plant.

Vases usually have three serious drawbacks; they are very restricted in size, are exposed to the most drying action of winds and sun, and are not conveniently watered. The last two disadvantages can be to some extent overcome by placing them in situations at least partially sheltered and shaded, and by running a half-inch or three-quarter inch pipe (which may be bought second hand for two to four cents a foot, while good hose costs sixteen to eighteen), a few inches under the sod and up to the top of the vase. Such a pipe should be detached and drained in the fall and will last many years; the few feet running up to the vase will be sufficiently concealed by the vines and reasonably inconspicuous.

Where such precautions are not taken, restrict the plants used to those doing well in the heat, and a dry soil; one of the best is the ice plant (_Mesembryanthemum_) with flowers of pink or white, very freely produced.

There is no prettier way of displaying plants than in the hanging basket, either in the house or on the porch. That one so seldom sees them is undoubtedly due to the fact that few people seem to know how to fill and take care of them. In the first place, the basket should be as large as possible--a size or so larger than you think you ought to have, for what reason you will see in the following.

Get a supply of sphagnum moss, and line the entire inner surface, sides as well as bottom, an inch in thickness; press down compactly, then fill nearly full of light, rich prepared soil, and put in the plants; something tall and graceful in the center, compact and dwarf-growing around this, and vines around the edges. Astonishingly beautiful results may be had with small baskets by using only one sort of plant in each, such as oxalis, ivy geranium or some trailing flowering vines. Cover the surface of the soil between the plants with clean live sphagnum moss.

This will both add to the appearance and conserve the moisture.

The best way by far to water hanging baskets is to have them so arranged that they may be taken down easily and allowed to soak until thoroughly wet in a tub or pail of water--which will take some time, as the moss will be like a dry sponge. Let them drain until dripping ceases and hang in place again.

If the above method is adhered to, you are sure to meet with success that will prove most gratifying.

CHAPTER XVII

HOUSE-PLANT INSECTS AND DISEASES

If the suggestions for taking proper care of plants, detailed in a former chapter, are carefully followed, and they are given plenty of fresh air and not crowded together, insects should not cause serious trouble.

No matter how careful one may be, however, they are almost certain to put in an appearance and steps to combat them must be taken immediately.

Remember, however, that the best remedy is prevention, and the best prevention is to have good strong healthy plants.

The two troubles perhaps the most common are neither insects nor disease. They are gas and sour soil.

The faintest trace of furnace gas or of illuminating gas will cause trouble, indicated by the yellowing and falling of the leaves and unsatisfactory development of buds. Where there is no way of eliminating the presence of these gases the only way to success with the plants--unless they can be entirely shut off in an enclosed place as suggested in Chapter II--is to take every possible care about leaks, and to give all the fresh air possible.

Sour soil is the result of improper drainage conditions, too much water, or both. It causes the leaves to turn yellow and checks new growth. Making right the harmful conditions will usually renew the health of the plant, but in bad cases it will be far better to remove the earth, wash the soil from the roots, carefully clean the pot--if the same one is to be used--and repot in good porous fresh earth. Keep on the dry side until growth is resumed.

As a rule, insects do much more damage to house plants than is caused by diseases. One characteristic of nearly all plant insects which will astonish the amateur is the marvelous rapidity with which they increase.

One to-day, and to-morrow a million, seems no exaggeration. While it may be true that, as one of our erstwhile best-selling heroes said, "a few fleas is a good thing for a dog; they keep him from broodin' on bein' a dog," a few bugs are certainly not good for a plant, because in a day or two there will be enough of them to endanger its life and surely, quickly to ruin its appearance. Never let the bugs get a start. If you take them in time they're easy: if not you have a very difficult and disagreeable task on your hands.

PLANT ENEMIES

_Aphis._ Aphis or green plant louse is the most commonly encountered of all the insect pests. It used to be dreaded, but with modern methods it may be readily and effectively exterminated. There are several forms and colors of these pests. If you have attempted plant-growing you are undoubtedly familiar with them. In the house, shaded places, crowded plants, poor ventilation, dry plants, all furnish environment favorable to the development of aphids. Change these conditions at once. The old method of fighting used to be by burning moistened tobacco stems, or steeping them in water and making a very weak tea for spraying. But either was a difficult, disagreeable and unsatisfactory method. There are now on the market three forms of tobacco all of which are easy to use and efficient. Tobacco dust--but it must be strong and made especially for the purpose; liquid nicotine, to be diluted and sprayed on according to directions; and prepared paper for fumigating. The last is perhaps the most effective. Besides these, and in my experience pleasanter and quicker, is the comparatively new compound called Aphine, which can be had from almost any seedsman in quart tins--enough to make five gallons of very effective spray, which will not discolor flowers or foliage.

_Red Spider._ This very serious pest is about the size and color of a grain of red pepper--although sometimes appearing brown or dull red. To make himself inconspicuous, he works on the under side of the leaves and behind a tiny web, but his presence is soon made manifest by the leaves upon which he is at work, which first turn light green, then show minute yellow spots, turn yellow and finally drop off.

The red spider is very tenacious of life, and hard to get rid of when he is allowed time to become well established. The best weapon to use against him, where it can be done, is clear cold water with as much force as possible against the under side of the foliage. Damp atmosphere a.s.sists in the work; so keep the air damp, and be on a sharp lookout.

Evaporated sulphur, or flowers of sulphur dusted upon the leaves will also help.

Where the collection of plants is not too large a one, the quickest and most certain way to be rid of the spider is to dip the top of each plant quickly two or three times into hot water--140 to 165 degrees. Although uncomfortable to the hand, water of this temperature will not injure the tenderest plant. It is effective against aphis and mealy bug, as well as against the spider.

_Mealy Bug._ The mealy bug inhabits a white, cottony looking ma.s.s, which is easily seen. Remove this covering and the real intruder is there. It is most fond of the soft-wooded plants, such as coleus and fuchsias, thrives in a hot, dry atmosphere, and will keep out of sight, if not watched for, in a ma.s.s of leaves or under some branch axis, until there are a large number.

If they are discovered before multiplying to any great extent, exterminate them with a fine brush or feather dipped in alcohol, coal-oil or kerosene, any of which, if applied directly to them, will kill them on the spot.

_Scale._ The scales infesting house plants are of two kinds. The more common is the brown scale, which has a hard, slightly convex, circular sh.e.l.l, one-quarter of an inch or so in diameter. The white scale is much smaller, and soon forms quite dense colonies. Both attack the thick-leaved, smooth-barked plants, such as palms, ferns, lemons, and abutilons. They do not appear to be doing any damage, but invisibly suck the juices of the plant. They should be destroyed at once. This is accomplished by the use of fir-tree-oil soap, whale-oil soap, or kerosene emulsion and a stiff brush.

_Thrips._ These do not often appear in the house, but may where plants are crowded in a shady place. They eat the substance of the leaves, leaving only the skeleton structure. They are small, about a quarter of an inch long, and brown or black. Aphine, kerosene emulsion or Paris green (one teaspoonful to twelve quarts of water) will keep them quiet.

_Root Aphis._ Sometimes the leaves of a healthy plant will begin to look sickly with no apparent cause. It may be found upon examination that the blue root aphis is at work, clinging in cl.u.s.ters to the rootlets. Remove and wash away the soil, and then wash the roots in whale-oil soap suds, and repot in fresh soil. If no fresh soil is available, tobacco tea or tobacco dust should be washed into the soil every other day for a week.

_Soil Worms._ The common earthworms sometimes find their way into a pot, and while they do not seem to bother the roots, I should judge from observation that they render the soil next to useless, especially in small pots. Another worm, or rather larva, sometimes to be found, is very small and hatches into a small white fly. If numerous, they do a good deal of damage. The treatment recommended for root aphis will get rid of them; or lime water (slake a piece of fresh lime the size of an apple in a pail of water, drawing off the water after settling), if used freely will kill them.

DISEASES

There are but two plant diseases likely to attack plants in the house: fungus and mildew. The first seems to be a sort of decomposition of the leaf, leaving a black, powdery residue. It is combated by spraying with bordeaux. Bordeaux can now be had in paste or powder form, which for small quant.i.ties is much better than to try to mix it yourself.

Mildew causes the tenderest leaves to curl up and some of them seem to be covered with a white powder. Flowers of sulphur, dusted over the plants while the foliage is damp, is the standard remedy.

For the sake of ready reference, the foregoing is condensed in the following simple table of plant insects and diseases.