On the fifth floor, we came upon three older men, talking and laughing.

J.T. looked them over. "You all staying on the eleventh floor, right?" he asked.

"No," said one of them without looking up. "We moved to 1206."

"To 1206, huh? And who said you could do that that?" None of them answered. "You need to settle up if you're in 1206, because you're supposed supposed to stay in 1102, right?" to stay in 1102, right?"

The men just cradled their beer cans, heads down, stung by the scolding.

J.T. called out to one of his foot soldiers, "Creepy, get these n.i.g.g.e.rs over to T-Bone." T-Bone, I knew, was one of J.T.'s close friends and senior officers.

As we resumed our climbing, I a sked J .T. what had just happened.

"Squatters," he said. "See, a lot of people who live around here don't have a lease. They just hang out in the stairs 'cause it's too cold outside, or they just need a safe place-maybe they're running from the police, or maybe they owe somebody money. We provide them protection. Sometimes they get out of hand, but most of them are pretty quiet. Anyway, they're here to stay."

"The gang protects the squatters?"

"Yeah, no one f.u.c.ks with them if they're in here. I make sure of that. But we can't have two million of these n.i.g.g.e.rs, so we have to keep track. They pay us."

As we continued our climb, we occasionally pa.s.sed an older woman wearing a blue Tenant Patrol jacket. There were about a dozen of these women in each building, J.T. said. "They make sure that old folks are doing okay, and sometimes we help them." Somewhere around the thirteenth floor, J.T. stopped when he saw a Tenant Patrol woman bent over a man who was squirming on the floor.

"Morning, Ms. Easley," J.T. said. The man looked like he was just waking up, but I could also smell vomit, and he seemed to be in pain. He lay right outside the incinerator room, and the garbage smelled terrible.

"He's coming down," Ms. Easley told J.T. "He said someone sold him some bad stuff."

"Hmm-hmm," J.T. said disapprovingly. "They all say that when something goes bad. Always blaming it on us."

"Can one of your boys take him to the clinic?"

"s.h.i.t, he'll probably just be back tonight," J.T. said, "doing the same thing."

"Yeah, baby, but we can't have him sitting here."

J.T. waved over the remaining foot soldier, Barry, who was trailing us. "Get a few n.i.g.g.e.rs to take this man down to Fiftieth." Barry started in on his task; "Fiftieth" referred to the Robert Taylor medical clinic, on Fiftieth Street.

"All right, Ms. Easley," J.T. said, "but if I see this n.i.g.g.e.r here tomorrow and he's saying the same s.h.i.t, Creepy is going to beat his a.s.s." J.T. laughed.

"Yes, yes, I know," she said. "And let me talk to you for a second." She and J.T. took a short walk, and I saw him pull out a few bills and hand them over. Ms. Easley walked back toward me, smiling, and set off down the stairwell. "Thank you for this, sweetheart," she called to J.T. "The kids are going to be very happy!"

I followed J.T. out to the "gallery," the corridor that ran along the exterior of the project buildings. Although you entered the apartments from the gallery, it was really an outdoor hallway, exposed to the elements, with chain-link fencing from floor to ceiling. It got its name, I had heard, because of its resemblance to a prison gallery, a metal enclosure meant to keep inmates in check. J.T. and I leaned up against the rail, looking out over the entire South Side and, beyond it, Lake Michigan.

Without my prodding, J.T. talked about what we had just seen. "Crackheads. Sometimes they mix s.h.i.t-crack, heroin, alcohol, medicine-and they just can't see straight in the morning. Someone on the Tenant Patrol finds them and helps."

"Why don't you just call an ambulance?" I asked.

J.T. looked at me skeptically. "You kidding? Those folks almost never come out here when we call, or it takes them an hour."

"So you guys bring them to the hospital?"

"Well, I don't like my guys doing s.h.i.t for them, but once in a while I guess I feel sorry for them. That's Creepy's decision, though. He's the one who runs the stairwell. It's up to him-usually. But this time I'm doing Ms. Easley a favor."

The stairwells, J.T. explained, were the one public area in the building where the gang allowed squatters to congregate. These areas inevitably became hangout zones for drug addicts and the homeless. J.T.'s foot soldiers, working in shifts, were responsible for making sure that no fights broke out there. "It ain't a pretty job," J.T. told me, laughing, "but that's how they learn to deal with n.i.g.g.e.rs, learn to be tough on them."

The gang didn't charge the squatters much for staying in the building, and J.T. let the foot soldiers keep most of this squatter tax. That was one of the few ways foot soldiers could earn any money, since they held the lowest rank in the gang's hierarchy and weren't even eligible yet to sell drugs. From J.T.'s perspective, allowing his foot soldiers to police the stairwells served another important function: It let him see which junior members of his gang showed the potential for promotion. That's why he let guys like Creepy handle this kind of situation. "Creepy can take the man to the clinic, or he can just drag his a.s.s out of the building and let him be," J.T. said. "That's on him. I try not to interfere, unless he f.u.c.ks up and the police come around or Ms. Easley gets p.i.s.sed."

I realized this was what J.T. had done the night I first stumbled upon his foot soldiers and was held overnight in the stairwell. He had wanted to see how they handled this stranger. Did they remain calm? Did they ask the right questions? Or did they get out of control and do something to attract the attention of tenants and the police?

"So what was going on with Ms. Easley?" I asked.

"You mean why did I give her money?" J.T. said. "That's what you want to know, right?"

I nodded, a little embarra.s.sed that he could see through my line of indirect questioning.

"Tenant Patrol runs after-school parties for kids, and they buy school supplies. I give them money for that. It keeps them off our a.s.s."

This was the first time J.T. had mentioned having to deal with tenants who might not like his gang's behavior. I asked what Ms. Easley might not like about his gang.

"I wouldn't say that she doesn't like like us," he said. "She just wants to know that kids can walk around and not get hurt. And she just wants to keep things safe for the women. Lot of these crackheads are looking for s.e.x, too, and they beat up women. It gets wild up in here at night. So we try to keep things calm. That's about it. We just help them, you know, keep the peace." us," he said. "She just wants to know that kids can walk around and not get hurt. And she just wants to keep things safe for the women. Lot of these crackheads are looking for s.e.x, too, and they beat up women. It gets wild up in here at night. So we try to keep things calm. That's about it. We just help them, you know, keep the peace."

"So she lets you do what you want as long as you help her deal with people causing trouble? It's a give-and-take? There's nothing that you guys do that p.i.s.ses her off?"

"We just keep the peace, that's all," he muttered, and walked away.

J.T. sometimes spoke vaguely like this, which I took as a sign to stop asking questions. At times he could be extraordinarily open about his life and his business; at other times he gave roundabout or evasive answers. It was something I'd learn to live with.

We kept climbing until we reached the top floor, the sixteenth. I followed J.T. down the hallway till we came to an apartment without a front door. J.T. told our foot soldier escort to stand guard outside. The young man nodded obediently.

Following J.T. inside, I was. .h.i.t by a noxious odor of vomit, urine, and burned crack. It was so dark that I could barely see. There were several mattresses spread about, some with bodies on them, and piles of dirty clothing and fast-food wrappers. The holes in the walls were stuffed with rags to keep out the rats.

"Sudhir, come over here!" J.T. shouted. I followed a dim light that came from the rear of the apartment. "See this?" he said, pointing to a row of beat-up refrigerators. "This is where the squatters keep their food." Each fridge was draped with a heavy chain and padlock.

"Where do they get the fridges?" I asked.

"From the housing authority!" J.T. said, laughing. "The CHA managers sell fridges to the squatters for a few bucks instead of taking them back to get them fixed. Everyone Everyone is in on it. That's one thing you'll learn about the projects." is in on it. That's one thing you'll learn about the projects."

J.T. explained that this apartment was a "regular" squat, which meant that the people sleeping there paid the gang a rental fee and were therefore allowed to keep food and clothes inside. Ten people stayed in this apartment. A squatter known as C-Note, who had been in the community for more than two decades, was their leader. It was his duty to screen other squatters who wanted to take up quarters, help them find food and shelter, and make sure they obeyed all J.T.'s rules. "We let him run things inside," J.T. said, "as long as he pays us and does what we say."

There were other, less stable squats in the building, J.T. explained.

"We got a lot of apartments that are just basically for the hos and the crackheads. They get high and spend a few nights and then they leave. They're the ones that end up causing trouble around here. That's when the police come by, so we have to be tight with them."

Outside the squat I sat down on the gallery floor, finally able to take a clear breath. I felt overwhelmed by all the new information hitting me. I told J.T. I needed a rest. He smiled, seeming to understand, and told me he'd survey the other two buildings by himself. When I started to resist, worried I might not have this chance again, J.T. read my mind. "Don't worry, Mr. Professor. I do this every week."

"Yeah, you're right," I said. "I'm beat. I'll meet you back at your place. I've got to go write some of this down."

My heart froze after I realized what I'd just said. I had never actually told J.T. that I was keeping notes on all our conversations; I always waited until we split up before writing down what had transpired. Suddenly I feared he would think about everything we'd just witnessed and discussed, including all the illegal activities, and shut me down.

But he didn't even blink.

"Shorty, take Sudhir back to Mama's place," he told the young man who'd been standing guard outside the squat. "I'll be over there in an hour."

I quietly walked down the sixteen flights of stairs and over to Ms. Mae's building. The elevators in Robert Taylor worked inconsistently at best, so the only people who bothered to wait for them were old people and mothers with small children. The foot soldier accompanied me all the way to Ms. Mae's door, but we didn't talk; I tended never to talk to foot soldiers, since they never talked to me- which led me to think they'd probably been told not to.

I wound up sitting at the living room table in Ms. Mae's apartment, writing up my notes. In a short time the apartment had becomethe place I went whenever I needed a break or wanted to write up some field notes. J.T.'s family grew comfortable with my sitting quietly by myself or even napping on the couch if J.T. was busy.

Sometimes the apartment was peaceful and sometimes it was busy. At the moment J.T.'s cousin and her two children were staying there, as was one of J.T.'s sisters. But the living arrangements were very fluid. Like a lot of the more established households in the projects, Ms. Mae's apartment was a respite for a network of poor and needy relatives who might stay for a night, a month, or longer. Some of them weren't actually relatives at all but were "strays" who just needed a place to stay. It could be hard to sort out J.T.'s relatives from the strays. Several of his uncles, I learned, were high-ranking gang members. But I didn't even know how many siblings he had. I'd often hear him talk about "my sister" or "a brother of mine on the West Side," but I couldn't tell if these people were blood relatives or just friends of the family.

Still, they all seemed content to let me hang out at Ms. Mae's. And they all knew that J.T. didn't want me wandering through the neighborhood by myself. Sometimes Ms. Mae would wordlessly set down a plate of food for me as I wrote, her Christian radio station playing in the background. No one in the family, including J.T., ever asked to see my notes-although once in a while he'd stand over me and joke about whether I was describing him as "handsome." He loved the idea that I might be writing his biography. But in general everyone respected my privacy and let me do my work.

Eventually Ms. Mae even cleared out a s.p.a.ce for me in the apartment to keep some clothes and books. Often, during a break from writing up my notes, I would start conversations with Ms. Mae and others in her apartment. They all seemed hesitant to answer specific questions-I'd already witnessed how tenants shied away from interviews with journalists or social workers-but they were more than willing to explain basic aspects of their lives and their community. Like Old Time and his friends in Washington Park, they talked openly about their family histories, Chicago politics, the behavior of the CHA and other city agencies, and life in the projects. As long as I didn't get too nosy-say, by asking about their income or who was living in an apartment illegally-they talked my head off. Just as important, I found I didn't have to hide my ignorance-which wasn't hard, since I was quite naive about politics and race in urban America. My naivete about these basic issues actually seemed to endear me to them.

In my brief exposure to J.T. and others in his building, I had already grown dismayed by the gap between their thoughtfulness and the denigrating portrayals of the poor I'd read in sociological studies. They were generally portrayed as hapless dupes with little awareness or foresight. The hospitality that Ms. Mae showed and the tenants' willingness to teach me not only surprised me but left me feeling extraordinarily grateful. I began to think I would never be able to repay their generosity. I took some solace in the hope that if I produced good, objective academic research, it could lead to social policy improvements, which might then better their living conditions. But I also wondered how I might pay them back in a more direct fashion. Given that I was taking out student loans to get by, my options were fairly limited.

Once J.T. saw how much I enjoyed accompanying him on his surveys of the buildings, he took me along regularly. But he often had other work to do, work he didn't invite me to see. And he wasn't ready yet to turn me loose in the buildings on my own, so I generally hung out around Ms. Mae's apartment. I felt a bit like a child, always in need of a baby-sitter, but I could hardly complain about the access I'd been granted into a world that was so radically different from anything I'd ever seen.

Ms. Mae introduced me to the many people who stopped by to visit. In their eyes I was just a student, a bit of an oddball to be sure; sometimes they jokingly called me "Mr. Professor," as they'd heard J.T. say. Several of J.T.'s aunts and cousins also lived in the building, and they warmed to me as well. They all seemed fairly close, sharing food and helping one another with errands or hanging out together on the gallery during the hot summer days.

Life on the gallery tended to be pretty lively. In the evenings families often set up a barbecue grill, pulling chairs or milk crates from their apartments to sit on. I probably could have made friends a lot more quickly if I hadn't been a vegetarian.

Little kids and teenage girls liked to tug my ponytail when I walked past. Others would chant "Gandhi" or "Julio" or "Ay-rab" in my direction. I was still enamored of the view of the city, and still nervous about the fencing that ran around the gallery.

Whenever a child ran toward the railing, I'd instinctively jump up and grab him. Once, a little boy's mother laughed at me. "Take it easy, Sudhir," she said. "Nothing's going to happen to them. It's not like the old days." In "the old days," I found out, some children did fall to their deaths off the Robert Taylor galleries, prompting the CHA to install a safety fence. But it was obvious that the first mistake had been building exterior hallways in windy, cold Chicago.

After dinner parents sent their kids inside the apartments and brought out tables and chairs, cards and poker chips, food and drink. They turned the galleries into dance floors and gambling dens; it could become carnivalesque.

I loved the nightlife on the galleries. And the tenants were generally in a good mood at night, willing to tell me about their lives if they weren't too high or too busy trying to make money. It was gettingeasier for me to determine when people were high. They'd stagger a bit, as if they were drunk, but their eyes sank back in their heads, giving them a look that was both dreamy and sinister.

It was hard to figure out the extent of crack use among the tenants. A lot of people pointed out that other other people smoked crack- calling them "rock star" or "user" or "hype"-while insinuating that they themselves never did. Aside from a few older women, like J.T.'s mother, just about everyone was accused of smoking crack at one time or another. people smoked crack- calling them "rock star" or "user" or "hype"-while insinuating that they themselves never did. Aside from a few older women, like J.T.'s mother, just about everyone was accused of smoking crack at one time or another.

After a while it became clear to me that crack use in the projects was much like the use of alcohol in the suburbs where I grew up: there was a small group of hard-core addicts and a much larger group of functional users who smoked a little crack a few days a week. Many of the crack users in Robert Taylor took care of their families and went about their business, but when they saved up ten or twenty dollars, they'd go ahead and get high. Over time I'd learn enough to estimate that 15 percent of the tenants were hardcore addicts while another 25 percent were casual users.

One of the first people I got to know on the gallery was named Clarisse. She was in her mid-thirties but looked considerably older. Beneath her worn and bruised skin, you could see a beautiful and thoughtful woman who nearly always had a smile ready. She worked as a prost.i.tute in the building-"hustler" was the standard euphemism-and called herself "Clarisse the Mankiller," because, as she put it, "my love knocks 'em dead." Clarisse often hung around with J.T.'s family on their gallery. This surprised me, since I had heard J.T. and Ms. Mae openly disparage the prost.i.tutes in their building.

"That's part of life around here," Ms. Mae had said, "but we keep away from them and I keep the kids away from them. We don't socialize together."

One quiet evening, as J.T.'s family was getting ready to barbecue, I was leaning against the gallery fence, looking out at the dusk, when Clarisse came up beside me. "You never tell me about the kind of women you like," she said, smiling, and opened a beer. By now I was used to Clarisse teasing me about my love life.

"I told you," I said, "my girlfriend is in California."

"Then you must get lonely! Maybe Clarisse can help."

I blushed and tried to change the subject. "How long have you been in the building, and how did you get to know J.T.?"

"They never told you!" Clarisse yelped. "I knew it! They just embarra.s.sed, they don't like to admit I'm family."

"You're part of their family?"

"Man, I'm J.T.'s cousin. That's why I'm around. I live upstairs on the fifteenth floor with my man. And I work in the building, too. I'm the one in the family they don't like to talk about, because I'm open about what I do. I'm a very very open person-I don't hide nothing from n.o.body. Ms. Mae knows that. s.h.i.t, open person-I don't hide nothing from n.o.body. Ms. Mae knows that. s.h.i.t, everyone everyone knows it. But, like I said, they don't always come clean about it." knows it. But, like I said, they don't always come clean about it."

"How can you live and and work in the building?" I asked. work in the building?" I asked.

"You see these men?" Clarisse pointed at some of the tenants along the galley, hanging out in front of their own apartments. "You should see how they treat women." I didn't understand what Clarisse meant; when she saw my face blank, she laughed. "Oh! We have a lot to talk about. Clarisse will educate you."

She then gestured toward a few women sitting on chairs. "See, all of them are hos. They all hustle. It's just that they do it quietly, like me. We have regulars, and and we live here. We're not hypes who just come and go." we live here. We're not hypes who just come and go."

What's the difference, I asked her, between a "hype" and a "regular"?

"Regulars like me, we hustle to make our money, but we only go with guys we know. We don't do it full-time, but if we have to feed our kids, we may make a little money on the side. I got two kids I need to feed, and my man don't always help out. Then you got hypes that are just in it for the drugs. They don't live around here, but J.T. lets them work here, and they give him a cut. I don't hang around with them. They're the ones that cause trouble. Some of them have pimps, some of them work for the gang, but they're all in it for the drugs. Clarisse don't mess with drugs. And that's why a lot of people accept us-even if they say things behind our back. They know we're only trying to take care of our families, just like them."

"Are you working now?" I said.

"Baby, I'm always working if the price is right!" She laughed. "But J.T. probably don't want me working tonight, so I won't be hustling."

This confused me, since J.T. had specifically told me that his gang didn't run a prost.i.tution racket. Most gangs didn't, he explained, since there wasn't much money to be made. Prost.i.tutes were hard to manage and required a great deal of attention: They were constantly getting beat up and arrested, which meant long periods without income. They needed to be fed and clothed, and the ones who used drugs were notoriously unpredictable. They were also p.r.o.ne to stealing money.

"What do you mean?" I asked. "You mean J.T. controls you?"

"No, but he told me once that if I wanted to hang out with his family, I had to play by his rules: no hustling when there's a family thing going on. Like tonight. And he runs things around here, so I have have to play by the rules." to play by the rules."

Even though J.T.'s gang didn't actually control the prost.i.tutes in his buildings, Clarisse explained that he did extract a monthly fee from both the hypes and the regulars. The regulars usually paid a flat fee (anywhere from fifteen to seventy-five dollars a month), and in return the gang would beat up any johns who abused the women. The hypes, meanwhile, turned over a cut of their income (ranging from 10 to 25 percent) to J.T.'s foot soldiers, who tried to keep track of how many tricks each woman turned. Clarisse said that J.T. was actually one of the nicer gang leaders on the South Side. He regularly lent money to women, helped them get medical care, even kept a few vacant apartments for them to use as brothels. So although J.T. didn't technically run a prost.i.tution ring, he certainly controlled the flow of prost.i.tution on his turf and profited from it.

The conversation with Clarisse that night made me realize that I was hardly the only person in the projects whose movements were dictated by J.T.

Whenever he took me on a survey of his buildings, I'd watch him deal with the various people who hung out in lobbies, stairwells, galleries, parking lots, and playgrounds. He warned a prost.i.tute not to hustle out in the open. He told a man selling sneakers-they looked like counterfeit Nikes-to move away from the lobby where J.T.'s gang members were selling drugs. J.T. often forbade homeless men from hanging out in the playground, especially if they were drinking. And if he spotted a stranger on the premises, he'd have one of his senior officers interrogate that person to learn his business. J.T. hardly knew every single person out of the roughly five thousand in his domain, but he usually managed to figure out whether someone was a local, and if he couldn't figure it out, he had plenty of people to ask.

All of this was accomplished with little drama. "You folks need to move this activity somewhere else," he'd say matter-of-factly. Or, "What did I tell you about hustling in the park when kids are playing?" Or, "You can't stay in this apartment unless you deal with Creepy first." I saw a few people resist, but none for any great length of time. Most of them seemed to respect his authority, or at least fear it.

In most of the sociological literature I'd read about gangs-they had been part of the urban fabric in the United States since at least the late nineteenth century-the gang almost always had heated relationships with parents, shopkeepers, social workers, and the police. It was portrayed as a nuisance at best, and more typically a major menace.

J.T.'s gang seemed different. It acted as the de facto administration of Robert Taylor: J.T. may have been a lawbreaker, but he was very much a lawmaker as well. He acted as if his organization truly did rule the neighborhood, and sometimes the takeover was complete. The Black Kings policed the buildings more aggressively than the Chicago police did. By controlling lobbies and parking lots, the BKs made it hard for tenants to move about freely. Roughly once a month, they held a weekend basketball tournament. This meant that the playgrounds and surrounding areas got thoroughly spruced up, with J.T. sponsoring a big neighborhood party-but it also meant that other tenants sometimes had to call off their own softball games or picnics at J.T.'s behest.

Over time J.T. became less reluctant to leave me alone in Robert Taylor. Occasionally he'd just go off on an errand and shout, "Hey, shorty, watch out for Sudhir. I'll be back." I generally didn't stray too far, but I did start up conversations with people outside the gang. That's how I first began to understand the complicated dynamic between the gang and the rest of the community.

One day, for instance, I ran into C-Note, the leader of the squatters, installing an air conditioner in Ms. Mae's apartment. C-Note was a combination handyman and hustler. For five or ten dollars, he'd fix a refrigerator or TV. For a few dollars more, he'd find an ingenious way to bring free electricity and gas into your home. When it came to home repair, there didn't seem much that C-Note couldn't, or wouldn't, do.

After he finished work at Ms. Mae's, I sat with C-Note on the gallery and had a beer. He told me that he had lived in the building for years and held various legitimate blue-collar jobs, but after being laid off several times he had lost his lease and become a squatter. He always found a little work and a place to sleep in J.T.'s building. He stayed out of people's way, he told me. He didn't make noise, didn't use drugs, and wasn't violent. He got his nickname, he explained, because "I got a hundred ways to make a hundred bucks."

I learned that a lot of tenants welcomed C-Note into their homes for dinner, let him play with their children, and gave him money for medicine or a ride to the hospital if he was hurt. But this began to change once J.T. moved his operations back into Robert Taylor. J.T. saw squatters as a source of income, not as charity cases. Nor was he pleased that C-Note was in the good graces of tenants, some of whom lobbied J.T. not to tax C-Note's earnings. Even J.T.'s mother was on C-Note's side in this matter.

But J.T. wasn't one to compromise when it came to money. He had to pay for the upkeep of a few cars as well as several girlfriends, each of whom needed her own apartment and spending allowance. J.T. also liked to go gambling in Las Vegas, and he took no small amount of pride in the fact that he owned dozens of pairs of expensive shoes and lots of pricey clothing. But instead of acting charitably toward someone like C-Note, J.T. was openly resentful of the idea that he was getting a free ride.