This will give you the desired height.

Posts as already mentioned should be of locust or some other long lasting wood, as cedar, and should be thoroughly seasoned before putting in the ground. The posts should be fully 6 inches in diameter. If from larger locust and split, so much the better, as the older the tree the longer it will last. The cutting and setting of the posts, putting up of the fence, can be done by the "fur-farmer" in those sections where locust and cedar grow, so that all the cash outlay necessary in building the enclosure, will be for galvanized wire, some staples and sheet tin for the top. Instead of placing the tin around the top, it may be fastened on the inside of the wire (as shown), about four feet from the ground.

The corner posts should be two or three times larger than the others; they should be set more firmly in the ground, five feet being about right. This will necessitate these posts being two feet longer than the rest. They should be firmly braced in both ways.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fence with Sheet Tin Four Feet from Ground.]

The cost of fencing an acre, varies, of course. An acre contains 160 square rods or about 12-1/2 rods each side--equal to 50 rods of fence.

If the wire costs $1.50 a rod, and posts 40 cents each, the cost of material required to enclose an acre will be $95.00. We are figuring on two posts to the rod. Add to this staples, gates, etc., and the cost will perhaps be about $100.00. Of course a much cheaper wire could be used, poorer posts, etc., so that the cost would be greatly reduced--but it generally pays to do a thing well.

To enclose a certain amount of ground with the smallest number of rods of fencing possible, the plat or ground to be enclosed should be in a square. The additional cost to enclose an acre, say 20 rods long by 8 wide, would be material for 6 additional rods. To fully ill.u.s.trate, an acre fenced in a square would be 12-1/2 rods on each side, or 50 rods; if 20 rods long, the two sides would be 40 rods, and the ends 8 each or 16 rods, making a total of 56 rods.

While the cost of enclosing an oblong piece of ground would be a few dollars more than if square, this should not stand in the way if the oblong piece of ground would make a better home for your fur-bearing animals.

The persons who expect to make "fur-farming" a business, can begin in a small way and same need not interfere with other work to a great extent.

Year after year, as they learn more of the business, they can enlarge, etc. Trappers, hunters and others who from experience know much of the animals, will no doubt be the most successful from the start. One party writes to know if skunk, fox, opossum and mink can be successfully raised in the same enclosure. If he means allowed to run together, they can not. If he means the same outside enclosure, with separate apartments for the various animals, there is no reason why such a place should not be successful as there will be advantages in such a plan.

First, an enclosure of four acres can be built much cheaper than four separate enclosures of one acre each. To enclose four one-acre enclosures would require 200 rods of fencing--50 rods for each. The four acres in one enclosure would be only about half or 100 rods. A square 25 rods on each side would be almost 4 acres. Should the fur-farmer wish to subdivide this into four tracts, a fence thru the middle each way would take 25 rods additional or 50 rods for both ways. This fencing need not be so high or so secure as the outside one. Should animals manage to get into another part of the four-acre enclosure, they would still not be at liberty, altho they might kill or injure some of the other species before being discovered by the owner.

If possible have a small stream of running water in the enclosure.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Plan for Combined Enclosures.]

Without labor the cost of material will vary from $2.00 to $3.00 per rod. The greatest variation in expense will be for posts. Those living where posts can be had, having considerable the advantage. This estimate being for galvanized one-inch mesh wire No. 14, per rod, smaller wire of course being cheaper. This is by far the best material in making enclosures, yet found. Some of the first experimenters used boards, but where there were cracks, or the sap or bark on edges rotted, affording the animals a place to gnaw, they soon found a way out. This had to be guarded against where the boards extended into the ground they often rotted so that there was always danger of the animals escaping. Where stones were set up edgewise or cement used, it was rather expensive and as galvanized wire lasts well either in the ground, where not exposed to the air, or being galvanized, it stands the elements well, it seems to meet the requirements of the fur farmer for fencing or enclosure purposes.

Where is the farmer who would expect to make a success at raising horses, cattle or sheep, by keeping them in a small pen and feeding them foods not to their liking or nature? Yet, such has been the case with some of those who tried "fur animal raising." They made a failure of it and no one who is at all familiar with fur-bearing animals is surprised.

Those who will be successful at "fur-farming" are trappers, hunters and farmers who know something of the animal or animals they expect to raise--those who love the animal and have a desire for the business.

The ox, horse and sheep were all wild at one time, but have become domesticated. Why not the same with the fur-bearers? This is exactly what should be done. Skunk, especially, are very easily domesticated, and other fur-bearers, such as c.o.o.n, mink and opossum, soon lose much of their fear.

When the raiser learns this and furnishes a large enclosure with dens and food similar to their wild state, they will be on the road to success. As one raiser says: "They do well in a semi-wild state." If the enclosure is too small, fleas, seed ticks, and other parasites are a great enemy to the animals. In a large enclosure the animals are more "at home" although at first they are restless and will walk around seeking a way to escape; that is they try to escape at night. They are seldom, if ever, seen during the day when first let loose in the enclosure; they generally go in the first den that has been prepared for them.

Water is important. If you are raising skunk, fox or opossum, water for drinking is all that they require; the same is the case with the c.o.o.n, although they will do best where they have water to wade, play and search for food. Muskrat, otter, beaver and mink must have water to swim and play in, as well as to drink or they cannot be raised. The enclosure for mink and muskrat should include a stream of running water if possible, or a pond of pure water. The same conditions apply to otter and beaver, but of course the wire should be of larger size than for mink and muskrat. Several different species of fur-bearers can be successfully raised in the same enclosure. c.o.o.n, opossum, and skunk will all do well together. Beaver and otter, apparently, live peaceably for weeks in the same beaver lodge or house.

The thousands of small lakes, ponds, etc., offer a splendid opportunity for the successful raising of muskrat. While many owners of such, today, in their natural condition, or without any fence, are reaping a profitable and furry harvest; yet there are additional hundreds that by building a fence around, would soon have a muskrat lake or pond worth a great deal. Muskrat are fond of their homes and often remain at the same location for years. If a wire fence three feet high were built around this lake or pond, (with one foot underground), it would keep the rats at home, as some would leave, especially as soon as the increase became large. Such a fence would also keep out mink, which kill muskrat, often.

Muskrat, in their wild or natural homes, seldom leave the water more than a rod or two, so that a pond a considerable distance from any stream, would be a comparatively safe place to raise them, without any enclosure. The danger would be, mainly, that after the animals became quite plentiful, some would perhaps leave, for instinct seems to teach them that some should seek homes not so crowded. This has happened in their natural breeding places where they became very plentiful.

How large and where to build enclosures for fur farming, must be decided by each individual. One party may have a creek, pond or lake, perhaps a swamp, already inhabited by muskrat, and all that is necessary is to keep other hunters and trappers off. On navigable rivers or lakes having an inlet and outlet, we believe in most states any one can trap so long as he is upon the water. In other words, the water does not belong to the land owner and he cannot keep others off; but any small lake or pond may be enclosed. On this point it would be well to see some lawyer in your county, as different states may have different laws.

A wooded bluff containing some den trees for c.o.o.n, and hollow logs, stumps, etc., for opossum and skunk, would be an ideal place for a fur-farm. The location of the farm should be within sight of the home of the raiser, in case a dog should get within or a thief should visit the farm. To guard against stealing at night your dog would give the alarm, or you could have an electric appliance connect the farm with the house.

Islands in large lakes offer a splendid place to begin raising fur-bearing animals, and especially those that do not like to get their "fur wet" or that naturally are not swimmers. In this cla.s.s are the various kinds of foxes, skunk and opossum; marten, it is true, are not included in the swimming cla.s.s, but the successful marten raiser perhaps will be found, if at all, in the higher alt.i.tudes where the snow gets several feet deep during the winter months, and the ground is covered with snow eight or nine months each year--such is the ideal and natural home of the marten.

Skunk and opossum are two animals that do not travel much in extreme cold weather, so that an island in a lake or large river, could be used with no fencing. It perhaps would be best to put up a wire fence but it need not be so substantial as if it were not surrounded by water. Of course islands in rivers that overflow, would not be suitable. There are, however, islands in the Great Lakes and elsewhere, that can be used for raising both skunk and opossum with little or no cash outlay at the start.

If islands are used for foxes (except in salt water where the water does not freeze), the same precaution in fencing must be taken as elsewhere.

Foxes travel during all kinds of weather and the first night the ice formed sufficient to bear their weight, they would be very apt to leave.

c.o.o.n could not be successfully raised on an island. They do not travel much during severe weather, but unless the island happened to be some distance from the mainland, they would likely swim to sh.o.r.e. Mink would be at home on an island where there was fish, frogs, etc., with drift and log piles to wander through, but as they are good swimmers, there would be nothing gained by starting with this animal on an island.

Skunk and opossum seem to be the only animals that can be safely raised on an island without the same precaution taken in fencing and enclosing, as upon the mainland. These two animals, while not the highest priced furred ones, for various reasons will prove to be as profitable, or more so, where conditions favor, than many other fur-bearers.

CHAPTER IV.

BOX TRAP TRAPPING.

I was born in Central Pennsylvania and spent the greater part of my early life among the mountains of that part of our country, writes Mr.

A. C. Williams, a well known trapper. From my early boyhood, I had a decided liking for the wilder cla.s.s of literature, and took special interest in tales of hunting and trapping adventures; but at that time, did not know that there were many who still followed hunting and trapping for profit. When I did learn of it, I naturally became even more interested, and tried to find a partner among my boy friends, intending, if I could find some person to accompany me, to make an extended hunting and trapping trip into some one of the wilder portions of the West or North.

Of course I was no more fitted for such a trip than any other country boy of the same age, and knew nothing of the wilderness; but being a boy, and having read so many tales of boy hunters traversing the wilderness as they would their own back yards, I naturally thought that life in the forests was a very simple thing, and that there was no reason why I should not go. As I grew older I learned that there was still some fur to be found in Pennsylvania, and not only that but that there were parties who made trapping a business, in season.

I was interested, and decided to try my hand on the fur-bearing animals found near my own home, before going farther, but I had no traps and knew nothing about the various sizes and grades; as a consequence, I sought out one of the trappers that I had heard of, and asked his advice regarding different traps for the various animals. He gave me the desired information, very willingly, and also remarked that he had been very successful in trapping mink and other small animals with box-traps.

After he had mentioned it, I remembered that my father had, on one occasion, caught a mink in a box trap, after it had been paying nightly visits to our chicken coop for a week or more, killing a hen each night; but for all of that I did not know that these traps could be used successfully when trapping for profit. It was not very long after my conversation with this trapper, that I had an opportunity of examining one of these wooden traps and studying its construction. I will give here a description of the trap used in that section:

A plain box, size 10 by 10 by 24 inches, is made of one-inch lumber, hardwood preferred, and is left open on one end and the top (see A) another part (B) the cover, is fitted in top and end, and hinged at back by driving a nail in each side, being careful to get both nails same distance from the end of board. This cover should work freely, and when dropped down in place, should fill the opening neatly, leaving no cracks for the captured animal to gnaw at.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Box Trap for Catching Animals Alive.]

Now nail two strips (CC) on opposite sides of the box and about three inches from the mouth of the trap. These strips should extend about ten inches above the top of the box, and should have the tops notched to hold stick (D). Stick (E) is tied at one end to a nail driven in the end of cover, and at the other end, is attached the trigger (F). One end of this trigger fits into a notch cut into the end of the box, and the other end fits into a similar notch cut in the bait-stick (G). The bait-stick, as will be noticed in the drawing, is slipped through a hole in the end of the box, just below the trigger notch, and is kept in place by means of a nail driven through on the inside of the box. A small trip board (H), rests under the bait-stick on the inside of the trap. This trip board doubles the value of the trap, as by its use many an animal which merely enters the trap to smell at the bait, will be caught; which would not occur if the board were not used.

To complete the trap, a snap catch (I) is fastened to one side of the trap in front of upright strip (C) and its purpose is to catch and hold the cover when the trap is sprung. This snap is made of springy wood, beveled on the top, and the falling cover presses it outward; but as soon as the trap is fully closed, it springs back to the original position holding the cover securely. In making this trap it is advisable, always, to use old, weather-beaten lumber.

As a result of my investigation, I made a number of these traps and was successful with them, from the start. In that part of the country there had been many saw-mills and logging camps, at one time or another and at such places I could always find old boards from which to construct the traps. The only tools required being a saw, a hatchet, and a half-inch auger, I would go to these places during the summer, whenever I had a day to spare, and make a few traps, hiding them near the places where I wished to set them.

The trap described above is of the size used for mink, skunk and opossum, but I made most of mine on a larger scale, and by baiting with fish, I caught many c.o.o.ns. On one occasion I caught three c.o.o.ns in one night, with only three traps set, and in another trap, set by the side of a small stream, in a gap of the mountains, I caught three mink and two c.o.o.ns in one fall season. At another time I caught a large bob-cat in such a trap.

As I said before I baited with fish when I could get them; but those trappers who used them for mink alone, never used bait, but attracted the mink into the trap by means of mink musk rubbed on the trip board.

I caught quite a lot of skunks in box traps, and it is a nice way to catch these animals, for the trap may be carried to the nearest water and the catch drowned by holding the trap beneath the surface. It is advisable always, to place a weight--a few stones or wet chunks--on the cover, as this will make it more certain in its action.

These traps are specially suitable for catching animals alive and uninjured, for breeding purposes, and now, that so many people are interested in raising fur-bearing animals, there is a ready sale for live animals, and this matter should be given attention.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Box Trap with Swing Gate.]

I have used another style of box-trap for muskrats, but is not intended for catching the animals alive, and the muskrats are always drowned. It is a simple box or square tube of boards, 6 x 6 x 24 or 26 inches, open at both ends. A wire screen is fastened over one end, and a loosely hinged gate of pointed wires is hung in the other end. I used for the gate, pieces of umbrella ribs, cut about eight inches long and the ends filed sharp. With the wires cut this length the gate will hang at an angle of forty-five degrees, or more, and will push in easily, allowing the animal to enter the trap without effort; but once inside, escape is impossible, as the gate cannot be pushed out, and even if the captured animal should raise the gate and attempt to creep under it, the pointed wires will catch in its back and prevent escape.

They are set in the dens, under water, and if the mouth of the den is too large, the s.p.a.ce around the trap should be closed with sods. Set in this way, it will catch any muskrat that attempts to leave the den, and I have caught three at one time in such a trap.

While muskrats caught in this way are always drowned, other animals, such as: mink, skunk and opossum, may be taken alive by setting the trap in the mouth of the den, blocking up all side openings. The width of the trap as shown in the cut, is considerably out of proportion, when compared with its length--it being drawn this way to show more clearly the working of the swing gate.

A very effective skunk trap may be made from an old barrel. The barrel is pivoted to a pair of stakes, driven firmly into the ground along a bank or hillside, where skunks are found, and the bait is fastened on the bottom of the inside of the barrel. This trap is shown plainly in the ill.u.s.tration. It will be apparent to all that when the skunk, in approaching the bait, pa.s.ses the center, where it is hinged to the stakes, the barrel tips over, and it will be impossible for the animal to escape.

Muskrats are sometimes taken with a wire net. To hunt them successfully in this way, two persons are required. While one holds the net over the mouth of the den, the other hunter drives the inmates from the burrow by prodding the ground with a pointed pole. A wire cage with a cover must be used to carry the captured animals, and each individual must be shaken into the cage as soon as captured, and the cage closed immediately to prevent their escape.