Frye's Practical Candy Maker.

by George V. Frye.

PREFACE.

It is not my intention in presenting this volume to the trade to write a long, dry dissertation on Confectionery, but to give plain practical receipts for the manufacture of fine Hand-made Counter Goods, and as I make no pretensions to literary merit, I hope to disarm criticism.

The work is the fruit of years of personal experience in the manufacture of fine candies, and though containing much, it does not pretend to teach all that a candy-maker should know; that must be learned by years of practice. Although not perfect, confectioners will find this little volume a useful one, if not invaluable. Its utility even to those who are skilled in the art of candy making appears to the writer to be great. But it is more especially designed for confectioners whose business does not justify their securing the services of skilled workmen. Many confectioners would be glad to exhibit to their customers a fine display of choice hand-made candies, knowing that by so doing they would soon increase their trade, but the wages of a good workman, in this line, are high, and he can not afford to keep one. The prices asked for the goods, by those that will wholesale them, make them too expensive to be practical, and at the same time the goods do not ship in good order, even if he had a favorable opportunity of buying them, so he is obliged to handle a line of cheap goods, which seldom give any satisfaction, or at least, do not create a desire for candies from his place; hence, his trade, or what should be his trade, is swallowed up by those whose goods are fresh and tempting. To such, the importance of this little volume, ready at call, to a.s.sist the confectioner in making a fine line of counter goods, is too plain to require discussion.

In conclusion, I earnestly hope these practical receipts will be an acceptable offering to a very large number of confectioners, whose prosperity I would promote. To them it is commended with the respects of the author.

G. V. FRYE.

SUGAR.

In selecting Sugar the confectioner must bear in mind that it is the foundation of all confectionery, and he can not expect to manufacture first-cla.s.s goods except from first-cla.s.s material; hence, select only Sugar that is perfectly dry and of uniform quality, and in white, hard, sparkling crystals; only such Sugar will give satisfaction.

In addition to selecting Sugar, particular attention must be paid to the changes that Sugar undergoes in pa.s.sing from one degree to another while cooking, and also its action when united with such ingredients as cream of tartar, glucose, mola.s.ses, nuts, fruits, etc. This must be done if one expects to be a proficient workman in the art of making fine candies.

FACTS FOR THE WORKMAN.

To have the following receipts produce the results desired certain conditions are imposed on the workman. In the first place, the best of Confectioner's Sugar must be used. Second, one quart of water to each six pounds of sugar, unless more than eighteen pounds is used, in which case, add only one pint of water to each additional six pounds. Third, the amount of cream of tartar or glucose mentioned in each receipt.

Fourth, that all goods are to be cooked over a rapid fire unless otherwise ordered. To show the importance of this I will ill.u.s.trate: In several places I have said "cook the sugar until it begins to turn yellow or about 330 by the thermometer." Now, if the best sugar, right amount of cream of tartar and water, and the batch is boiled over a rapid fire, it will not vary but a degree or so from turning at 330, but if a lower grade of sugar is used, more cream of tartar, more water, and the batch is boiled over a slow fire, the sugar will turn probably before the batch reaches 300, and the goods when made would soon become sticky and unfit for the counter. There are often times when a poorer grade of sugar must be worked and there is no reason why poor goods should be made from it, but good judgment is necessary. If the sugar is damp, use only water enough to dissolve it, use less cream of tartar and cook over a very rapid fire; yet, such sugar can not be used for first-cla.s.s goods, and should not be used at all unless the best can not be procured.

In flavoring candies never use ether flavors, only pure fruit extracts and oils.

Put all hard sugar goods, as soon as made, into air tight tin boxes, so they are not exposed to the atmosphere until needed for the counter.

In coloring the cheaper grades of hard candies, always make decided colors, but in the finer hard goods and cream work make only delicate shades.

Always dissolve cream of tartar in a small quant.i.ty of water before adding it to the batch.

DEGREES OF BOILING SUGAR.

THREAD.

The first degree found in boiling Sugar is called the Thread. The manner of ascertaining this is: having placed the batch on the furnace, which for example we will call six pounds of sugar and one quart of water, stir with a wooden spatula or skimming ladle until dissolved, having boiled a short time, raise the skimmer from the batch, pa.s.s the fore finger of the left hand across it, retaining on the end of the finger some of the syrup; now place the end of the finger on the thumb, and separate them, if a thread is formed between them, which breaks and settles on the thumb, the degree is reached. By the thermometer this degree is 220, by saccharometer 33.

PEARL.

The next degree is the Pearl, and is indicated by trying as before, and if able to separate finger and thumb to fullest extent, the degree is reached. The thermometer will show at this degree, 226, saccharometer, 37.

BLOW.

Continue the boiling, and raising the skimmer, blow through it, if small air bubbles appear on opposite side, the blow is reached, and the thermometer will show 230, saccharometer, 40.

FEATHER.

Proceed with the boiling a few minutes, raise the skimmer and blow through it as before, if a greater number of air bubbles appear the degree is reached. The thermometer will indicate 236, saccharometer, 42.

SOFT BALL.

The next degree is the Soft Ball, and is determined in the following manner: Place a measure of cold water near the furnace, and after inserting the right hand in the water reach in the batch with two fore fingers and bring out a small portion of syrup, immediately putting your hand back in the water, and if you can work the syrup into a soft ball in the water it has reached that degree. The thermometer showing 240, saccharometer, 44.

HARD BALL.

In a short time try as before, and if you can form the syrup into a hard ball that will stick to the teeth, when bitten, the degree is reached.

The thermometer showing 248, the saccharometer after this degree ceases to indicate correctly.

SOFT CRACK.

The next degree reached, after continuing the boiling for a short time, is the Soft Crack. Try in the water, as before, and if the syrup cracks when pressed by the finger and thumb, but on holding a moment, forms into a hard ball again, it is the degree sought. The thermometer shows this degree to be 252.

CRACK.

Test as before, and if the syrup cracks easily and will not form a ball, it has reached the crack. The thermometer marks this degree 260.

HARD CRACK.

The next degree we use, is when after being tested as before, it cracks like egg sh.e.l.ls, and will eat up readily. The thermometer shows at this degree 290.

The degrees higher than the Hard Crack or 290 are used only for such goods as machine drops, stick candies, etc., and will be explained as we proceed.

COLORS.

In choosing Colors for candy, certain qualifications are necessary.

First, they must not fade or change when exposed to the light. Second, they must not be easily affected by acids or alkalies; hence, it has been difficult to produce colors that are reasonably permanent and at the same time harmless. Yet the following will be found as near perfect as any yet produced.

RED, COCHINEAL COLOR.

Put on the fire, in a copper basin, two quarts of water; when it comes to a boil, add one fourth of a pound powdered Alum; then the same amount of powdered Cochineal; next, the same quant.i.ty of Salts of Tartar; let it boil a minute, stirring all the time, then set off the fire, and stir in six ounces Cream of Tartar; place again on the fire, and boil about five minutes; then strain through a fine sieve; when cool enough, put into a gla.s.s jar. Do not cover it, as it keeps much better when open to the air.

CARMINE.