As stated, an important element of successful fox trapping is to make as little disturbance, and to leave us little scent us possible, in working around, and going to and from trap. It follows then that one should not only aim so to fix his traps that they will require no actual attention under ordinary conditions of weather, except at considerable intervals, but should invariably locate them with a view to being able to look after them in a way not to arouse wily reynard's suspicions.

[Ill.u.s.tration: WHITE FOX SKINS.]

Sometimes, when trapping along a creek or other waters where it is not convenient to keep a boat, a rude raft may be constructed from which to make sets, and to be employed in visiting same. It simplifies the work one half to be able to do the whole thing by water, as water leaves neither scent nor trail. But where it is not possible to make use of this helpful agent, care should be taken to select a spot that can be approached over ledgy ground, or by jumping from rock to rock, two short strips of board to be stepped upon alternately, being often useful in bridging over any breaks that may occur in such line of approach.

Where this method cannot be employed, owing to the nature of the ground, it is advisable to vary the route in visiting, as by always following the same line a well defined trail will soon be made, which is certain to excite suspicion in an animal as shy as the fox. When dealing with an unusually shrewd customer, some wear snowshoes or strap hide of some sort on the feet, either of which is not a bad plan, as well as that of dragging a fresh pelt behind one to obliterate one's trail.

As to making beds of chaff, while I have no personal experience with this material, it never impressed me as being the proper thing for the purpose, as it is out of place in the woods or fields. If a man comes upon a pile of chaff any where away from buildings, it instantly occurs to him as being queer that it should be in such a place. Do you not suppose that the wild creatures, whose very existence depends upon their sharpness of observation, are likely to note the unfitness of the thing quicker than we? Of course, if the chaff be deposited in place early in the season, allowing time to discolor and decay, it may help the case, or feathers may be thrown over the bed. But in the latter event wind may at any time remove the covering. For myself, I have always had better luck in making sets for any animal with materials obtained from the immediate surroundings, and having therefore nothing foreign in smell or appearance to offend the creature's nose or eye.

Now a few words as to the fox's regard for iron. Does he feel that it is a thing to be avoided or not? It is my belief, brother trappers, that he does, under certain circ.u.mstances, have a strong instinctive fear of metal of any kind. That is to say, when he finds it in places where as a rule it is not to be found. The fact that he will walk for miles on the railroad track, and even upon the rails, is no argument to the contrary, for the reason that he has become accustomed to the iron in such places. A large quant.i.ty does not alarm him, but a small piece, half hidden in the dirt, in field or wood where he is not accustomed to see it, awakes his distrust. For the same reason, he will trot deliberately out in the road in front of a pa.s.sing team, when the mere snapping of a twig beneath the hunter's feet would send him off flying. He has learned that danger rarely comes to him from persons traveling by team; it is of the stealthy step and the swift act of raising a gun that instinct has taught him to stand in fear.

And so it is with respect to iron. It is all right in its place, he knows, but he also knows that it is quite out of place--from his standpoint, at least--in proximity to his favorite articles of diet.

Why even the stupid muskrat, who will go into people's cellars, and in fact most everywhere else he wants to, and who will walk into any sort of set so long as the trap be covered, will not step into a bare trap. Dozens of times have I had my dog follow the tracks one has made around my trap when it was left bare by falling water, but invariably the rat has left the bait rather than put his foot on the uncovered trap. It is absurd to think the thick-headed muskrat is sharper in any respect than wise Mr. Fox.

[Ill.u.s.tration: A RHODE ISLAND SCENE.]

CHAPTER IX.

RED AND GREY.

I will give a method for trapping the grey fox, and have to say trap him the same as the red fox, as any method that will take one will do for the other, says L. M. Pickens, of Tennessee. The trapper can easily tell which of these species he is setting for, as the grey fox has more of a round track, while his red brother leaves a much larger and longer imprint.

Each of these animals are great rovers, starting on a forage by sunset, traveling many miles in a night; never holing up for the bitterest freeze that comes.

Look for fox tracks in stock paths, old roads not much used, places under fences, washouts, and in large gullies, as such places are their travels, yet many other unnamed places suited risks for your traps may be found if one is closely looking around.

Carry with you a hardwood stick, ready sharpened, with which to dig the pit for your traps, and dig this lengthwise with the path, (not across it), and deep enough so the trap will be just a little below level of surface; now place the trap in, cover over springs and around outside of jaws with dirt, and lay a piece of paper, flat leaves or a piece of cloth over jaws and pan, then pulverize some of the dirt you dug up, sprinkle over the trap 'till all is covered over good, then lay a dead weed or stick on each side of trap two or three inches away, which completes the set.

[Ill.u.s.tration: GREY FOX.]

When you fasten the trap, do not staple it, but wire the ring or end of chain to a bush you cut, one that the fox can drag a distance, which always leaves the same trap pit or hole in readiness for your trap, which should immediately be smoked, set right back for another fox which is sure to come along, and if you are careful he will he yours, as it all depends upon skillful setting and covering the trap chain.

Have everything look as natural when you make the set as before, and I will guarantee the catch of every fox that comes along.

Use none but the best trap, and a Newhouse No. 2 is recommended, handle it and everything about the set with gloves, learn to respect the cunning of a fox by cultivating a habit of standing in one place, always be careful not to spit, whittle or leave any paper about a trap.

Don't use rusty traps, scour off the rust, and boil for thirty minutes in any green bark that will coat them; willow, walnut, or chestnut are good.

Don't lay your traps around on the ground at your sets; better carry them in a satchel, sack or something strapped around your shoulders.

Don't whittle or spit where you are making a set.

Don't staple your traps, but cut and wire the chains to a green limb, one that the fox can drag a distance, and visit your traps regularly, avoiding any unnecessary company.

The method recommended is only the "path method," and to be used altogether without any bait or scents; as I believe the best results are obtained by just taking a fox unawares, and the whole secret is in choosing the place, then knowing just how to conceal the trap, and have everything as natural as possible when the set is made.

Look for fox tracks in stock paths, in pastures, fields, and woods, in large gullies, washouts and places under fences, old roads not much used, sand bars along streams, and other places; always selecting a narrow place for your set; approaching such places with trap ready set and wired to the brush, then with ready sharpened hard wood stick, stop and stand in one place until trap is properly set, when you can just walk right on to the next place.

Always dig the pit just the size of trap to be used, having the springs lengthwise in the path or trail--not across it--and just deep enough so the trap will be a little below the surface level when put in the pit. Cover over springs and around the outside of the jaws with dirt, lay a piece of paper over pan and jaws, or put fine moss, cotton, wool or dead gra.s.s inside of jaws and under pan; then haul on the fine dirt, just enough of it to thinly cover all, brush with a twig to level and complete the set by laying a couple of dead weeds, or small sticks, just haphazard like some two or three inches on each side of the trap.

As soon as you kill your fox, reset the trap in the same pit, but if your brush drag is chewed up, replace it with a new one. In addition, if it is a female fox that is caught, kill it near a path or any good place where a set can be made and where you have lately noticed a fox's track; then conceal and secure your trap as before, and the chances are as good for you to catch one or more fox at this set.

[Ill.u.s.tration: SACKING FOXES.]

Now try this method all the way through and you will soon see that I am right. My brother set his first fox trap Dec. 9th and on the morning of the 10th had a large female red fox and killed it in a pasture near a path, and that night caught the largest dog fox I ever saw or heard of.

He got both these foxes just exactly as the above method indicates.

The dog fox weighed 19 pounds and its hide measured 5 ft. 5 inches on the board. The old fox had lots of gray hairs on his head, evidently an old timer.

CHAPTER X.

WIRE AND TWINE SNARE.

Various are the ways being studied for the capture of the fox and other shy animals, says J. H. Shufelt, of Canada. Most every trapper has a particular method of his own. Years ago trappers thought it was necessary to set in water in order to be successful in catching foxes, but after a closer acquaintance with the ways of the fox, it was found that they were easily caught in a steel trap on dry land in many ways. At the present time the trapper has found a less expensive way of catching them with the snare. This method has many advantages, and when properly set is a sure thing. It takes in most of those old sly ones that have been nipped by steel traps, etc.

The method shown here is only one of the many ways of the snare.

Owing to the peculiar fastening of the snare, a powerful spring pole or weight can be used with a lighter wire. I use a copper or bra.s.s wire 1 gauge, with a foot or more slack between fastenings, which gives the spring pole a chance to instantly take advantage of the fox as soon as caught, when he will be caught up to the staple (which should be high enough from the ground so the fox will swing clear) and choked.

I set my snares in paths where weeds or gra.s.s grow each side to hide the snare. The loop should be seven inches in diameter, ten inches from the ground. It is as well before trapping to get the fox to traveling a path by leaving some good scent along the path. This can be done by boring a three-fourths hole downward in a tree near the path and pour the scent in, which will last a long time. If the same care is used in setting snares as is used in trapping, I think the snare will catch more. They work well in cold weather, and some fine catches can be made after a snowfall with the snare. Then the fur will be good and prime.

[Ill.u.s.tration: WIRE OR TWINE SNARE.]

A--Spring pole.

B--Staple.

C--Two small nails driven in tree. (Three inch nail head, end down, with snare looped at each end with a foot of slack between. As soon as the D--three inch nail is pulled down, it will slip past the nail at top end, when spring pole will instantly take up the slack, also the fox, to staple and does its work.)

E--Slack line or wire.

F--Loop should be 7 inches in diameter and bottom of loop ten inches from the ground.

Remarks--The nails should be driven above staple so it will pull straight down to release the snare fastening.

I may state that I learned all the best ways of setting traps for fox long ago from an old trapper, says A. H. Sutherland, of Nova Scotia.

But I never bothered setting a trap for a fox in my life, for the reason that I can catch them with snares on bare ground much easier and cheaper than with traps. But on snow if I could get fox to take bait, I would try poison on him. I may add that the snare is good for other animals besides the fox, such as c.o.o.n, skunk and wild cat.

Go to a hardware store and get some rabbit wire and put about five strands of it together, and twist it just enough so that it will stay together nicely. Have a small loop on both ends and run one end through the other so as to make a noose of it. Next get some good twine, put a piece about 10 or 12 inches in length into the loop on the end of the snare, that is, the end that is going to be fastened.

Now find a path in an old clearing or in the woods, and select a place where you think best to set your snare. Cut a stake about 2 feet long and 1 1/2 inches through, have a limb on the b.u.t.t end of it almost 3/4 inch in length. Sharpen the small end of the stake and drive it in the ground, leaving about 10 or 12 inches above ground; then cut a nice little pole about an inch and a half at the b.u.t.t end and sharpen it, trim off at about an inch at the top end and fasten your snare, or at least take your pole in both hands and force the b.u.t.t end into the ground till it will be good and firm.

Now bend down your pole and fasten your snare to it, and put the end of the pole under the catch on the stake. Be sure to drive your stake close enough to the path so as to have your snare light about the center of the path and the lower side of the snare about 8 inches from the ground. It is best to have them high enough so the fox cannot jump over them. Of course a man must use good judgment at setting snares just the same as he would in setting traps.