LONG-ON.

Stands deep on the on-side. When the bowling is very swift, he can take the place of mid-wicket on, as a ball in such a case is seldom hit fair, either on the on or off side. He must be a good catch, a good thrower, and very swift on his legs.

LONG-OFF.

Occupies the same position as long-on at the other side of the wicket.

LEG.

Stands about the same distance behind the wicket on the on-side as long-on does before it. He must possess a quick eye and great agility.

Leg-hits, after touching the ground, usually turn off in quite a different direction from what one would expect. Leg should therefore try to get them before they pitch, or else be careful in running to meet them.

MID-WICKET ON AND OFF.

Stand halfway between the long-fields and the striker's wicket. As many catches come to these parts of the field, they should be very sharp and active, and try to prevent the ball going past them.

THIRD MAN UP.

In very swift bowling the long-on often takes this position. He stands between point and short-slip, in a direct line with the bowling-crease, at a distance of about twelve yards.

And now, having given the functions of the fieldsmen, we propose to show, by diagrams, their positions with regard to fast and slow bowling.

DIAGRAM I.--FAST ROUND-ARM BOWLING.

[Ill.u.s.tration: S. Striker; 1. The Bowler; 2. Wicket-Keeper; 3.

Long-Stop; 4. Short-Slip; 5. Point; 6. Long-Slip; 7. Mid-Wicket on; 8.

Long-off; 9. Cover-Point; 10. Third Man up; 11. Long-Leg; U. Umpire.]

DIAGRAM II.--MEDIUM PACE ROUND-ARM BOWLING.

[Ill.u.s.tration: S. Striker; 1. Bowler; 2. Wicket-Keeper; 3. Long-Stop; 4.

Short-Slip; 5. Point; 6. Long-Slip; 7. Long-on; 8. Long-off; 9.

Cover-Point; 10. Mid-Wicket on; 11. Leg; U. Umpire.]

DIAGRAM III.--SLOW UNDERHAND BOWLING.

[Ill.u.s.tration: 1. Bowler; 2. Wicket-Keeper; 3. Leg; 4. Short-Slip. 5.

Point; 6. Extra Long-on; 7. Long-on; 8. Long-off; 9. Mid-Wicket off; 10.

Mid-Wicket on; 11. Square-Leg; S. Striker. U. Umpire.]

As in very swift bowling the ball is often hit to the off, it will be seen that in Diagram I. we have placed no less than six out of the eleven on that side. Mid-wicket on and long-off should be a little nearer the bowler, and long-slip nearer the long-stop, than represented in the ill.u.s.tration.

In Diagram II. third man up is made mid-wicket on, while cover-point comes in nearer than when the bowling was very fast.

In Diagram III., as the bowling is slow, no long-stop is required; he is therefore sent as an additional field behind the bowler. Short-slip stands in very close to the wickets.

CROQUET.

MATERIALS OF THE GAME.

THE MALLETS.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

The mallet, of which in a Croquet set there are eight, varies in length from 32 to 39 inches. The handle is thin and round, and is fastened into the head somewhat in the manner of an ordinary mallet used for knocking in tent pegs. The head slightly resembles in shape a dice-box, inasmuch as it is narrower in the centre than at the ends. The mallet is the active agent in the game, just as the bat is at cricket; and as the mallet is always in the hands of the striker, care should be taken that it is well planed. Towards the top of the handle a few circular lines may be cut with advantage, as they give a firmer hold to the hand. At the bottom of the handle is usually painted a colour, or a number of lines, corresponding to the marks on one of the b.a.l.l.s. Such an arrangement, although not absolutely necessary--since a player can use any mallet without interfering with the game--is of advantage in according to each player the same coloured mallet as his ball; and were the mallets uncoloured, disputes would probably arise about one which was a greater favourite than the others. Some people prefer to have the colour of all the b.a.l.l.s painted on their mallets. This is a very good plan if one is in the habit of playing with inattentive people, who will not recollect when it is their turn to play. As the hard surface of the end of the mallet-head coming sharply in contact with a ball often cracks, chips, or breaks it in two pieces, it has been suggested that a piece of wash-leather should be let in at each end of the head, in order to deaden the force of the stroke. We do not, however, recommend the adoption of this plan, as it is very expensive, and the wash-leather is not only likely to be soon torn, but in the course of the game may come out altogether; besides, a Croquet-ball can always be replaced for a trifling sum, and, if played with carefully, ought to last twelve months at least.

[Ill.u.s.tration: CROQUET.]

[Ill.u.s.tration]

THE b.a.l.l.s.

The b.a.l.l.s are eight in number, and are generally painted different colours--blue, pink, black, yellow, brown, orange, red, green. The size varies from 3 inches to 3? inches in diameter. The b.a.l.l.s of some of the better Croquet games are not entirely covered with paint, but adorned simply by a band of paint, about half an inch in width, or with lines of blue and red, varying from one to four in number, as in the ill.u.s.tration. b.a.l.l.s coloured thus are, however, not so easily distinguishable as those which are painted all over.

THE HOOPS.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

The hoops, ten in number, are made of iron. They are about 16 inches high, and 12 inches wide; although these dimensions are not of much importance. In some games the hoops are of bronze, or else are painted a golden colour. Usually, however, they are of a black, iron tint. The set with which we generally play is painted white. This plan is in many respects advantageous, for as the shades of evening close round the players the contrast between the gra.s.s and the hoops becomes less vivid, and consequently in the excitement of the game a player occasionally tumbles over a hoop, and probably hurts his legs; when, however, the hoops are painted white, the play can be continued to a late hour without the chance of such a casualty as the breaking of one's shins against the iron hoops.

THE POSTS.

The posts, two in number, should be from 24 to 36 inches high. One end must be sharpened into a point, in order to allow it to stick well in the ground. One is called the starting, the other the turning post. The top half is, in the cheaper sets, divided into eight divisions, each of which is painted according to the colours of the ball. Thus, beginning from the top, we trace the divisions into the following order:--

1. Blue.

2. Pink.

3. Black.

4. Yellow.

5. Brown.

6. Orange.

7. Green.