11. When the cue-ball is in contact with one or more b.a.l.l.s, all are taken up and placed as at the commencement of the game; and the player, being considered in hand, continues his play.

12. If the b.a.l.l.s are disturbed accidentally, through the medium of any agency other than the player himself--as, for instance, through the interference of his opponent, or the marker, or other outside party--they must be replaced, and the player allowed to play.

13. If, in playing, or after having played, the player disturbs any ball other than his own, he cannot make a counting stroke, but he may play for safety. But if he touches his own ball, except with the cue, or if he touches it more than once with that instrument, the stroke is foul, and he cannot play for safety.

14. A player has no right to disturb the b.a.l.l.s, and ought not to do it without the consent of his adversary.

15. When the cue-ball is very near another ball, the player ought not to play without warning his adversary that they do not touch, and giving him time to satisfy himself on that point.

16. Playing with the wrong ball is foul. The rules as to playing with the wrong ball in the four-ball game are applicable to the three-ball game.

17. Blowing on a ball, or using any other means to alter its course or position, is foul. If the player so offending is in play, he must yield the table to his adversary, should the latter demand it. In all cases, the opposing player shall have the privilege either of having the ball or b.a.l.l.s replaced, or played with as they are.

18. If a lost ball, on being put back on the table, disturbs another, the ball so disturbed must be put in its place again by the marker or referee, and the player whose turn it is to play shall proceed.

19. The red ball being lost, and its spot being occupied, it shall be placed on the "string" spot; if this latter should happen to be occupied also, then the red shall be placed on the pool spot at the foot of the table. A white ball being lost and its spot being occupied, shall be placed on the deep-red spot, or if that is occupied, on the pool spot, provided that it is not the turn of the player whose ball is lost to play. In that case, there is no occasion for spotting the lost ball.

20. On a carom table, a lost white ball that has been placed on the "string" spot cannot be moved after the opposing player has played a stroke while the ball was in this position; but on a pocket table, where the owner of a white ball that has been lost is compelled to play outside of the "string," he can, when his turn comes, play from any point within the semicircle, provided that his ball has not been struck by another. On a pocket table, it is held that a ball is in hand until it has been struck or moved from its position, it having been placed on the spot simply to afford the in-striker a chance to count. On the contrary, on a carom or pocket-less table, custom has made the rule that a lost ball ceases to be in hand after one stroke has been played; and, in consideration of this ruling, the player, instead of being allowed to shift the position of his ball, is privileged, in this country, to play at any ball irrespective of its being in or out of the "string," and regardless, also, of whether he stands at the head or at either side of the table.

[_Explanation._--The two rules last preceding may be further explained in this wise: Either on a pocket or a carom table, a ball that rolls on to and occupies the "string" spot in the course of play cannot be moved aside to permit the spotting of a white ball that has become "lost." The lost ball must be spotted on the dark-red, or the pool spot, as directed in rule 19, if its owner is not ent.i.tled to the next play, or within the semicircle if he is. But when, on a carom table, a white ball has been placed on the "string" spot by either player, instead of having rolled thereon, it may be moved aside to accommodate a "lost" white ball, provided that subsequent to the placing of the ball as mentioned _no stroke has been played_. In marked contrast with this, a white ball that has been placed on the "string" spot _on a pocket table_, may be moved aside at any time in order to permit the spotting of a "lost" white ball, provided always that the first-mentioned ball has not been touched while occupying the spot.]

21. A player who abandons a game declares it lost by so doing.

There is a pretty variation of this game called the "Pillet Game," in which the above rules are varied only to the extent of requiring the cue-ball to touch the cushion first before a carom can count, the score in this game being ten points up only.

HINTS TO AMATEURS.

The old adage, "Experience is a great teacher," holds equally true in billiards as in any other of the many occupations of life. There is no royal road to learning, but the student of the present day enjoys vast facilities over his ancestors in the acquirement of every variety of knowledge. Every new fact promulgated aids in the development of additional facts, which, though ever existent, have but just been discovered. Bearing these axioms in mind, we propose to embody in the present article a few hints to billiard players, which will enable the tyro at once to benefit by the information which the proficient has only obtained by years of practice and observation.

Remember that all players have equal rights, and that no gentleman will take any advantage of an antagonist excepting such as he may be fairly ent.i.tled to by superiority of judgment or of skill.

Never make any remark or unnecessary noise when your adversary is about to play, but stand away from the table and not opposite the pocket at which he may be playing.

Do not play carelessly, or strike at random, but with some definite object in view; and if no eligible stroke presents itself, endeavour to leave the b.a.l.l.s as safe for your opponent as your skill will permit.

Never despair of winning a game; care and caution frequently insure success, even against apparent impossibilities. Fortune may seem to be against you, but remember that in the long run luck will invariably succ.u.mb to skill.

Attempt only strokes which seem to be within the compa.s.s of your abilities, except the necessities of the case require a deviation from this rule. This, however, is only to be considered a general law, and not by any means imperative.

Effecting the stroke at hand is but a part of the game, and the player should endeavour, in making this shot, to leave the b.a.l.l.s in a position where a second count can be secured.

By way of ill.u.s.tration of some of the "points" in the game of billiards, we present below a few diagrams, and the first is that ill.u.s.trative of the method of taking advantage of the chances for making points. The following is an explanation of abbreviations used in describing diagrams:--

A. stands for above the _centre_ of the ball; B. for below it; R. to the right of it; L. to the left; and D. for diagonal. Q. P. means the strength or quant.i.ty of power with which the cue-ball must be struck. We describe as follows: Q. P. No. 1, strength enough to make the ball roll from the string to the lower cushion and back to the head cushion. Q. P.

No. 2, from the string to the lower cushion, back to the head cushion, and from that to opposite the centre pocket. To propel it from the string to the opposite cushion, thence back to the head, and from that back to the lower cushion is Q. P. No. 3. Q. P. No. 4, is sufficient force to propel the ball from the string to the lower cushion, back to the head cushion, back to the lower cushion again, and thence half way down the table.

In playing billiards we frequently find the b.a.l.l.s in a position where a count can be effected in several different ways. In such cases, it is advisable for the player to take into consideration the probabilities of effecting the stroke, and the position of the b.a.l.l.s thereafter. If the stroke be at all doubtful, he should play where he would have the greatest prospect of success, or, in other words, "take the chances."

We will suppose the cue-ball to be in hand, and the player desirous of securing a good "break." The diagram below ill.u.s.trates the position.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

If, in the above case, the student is playing the usual game, it would be advisable for him to play on the object-ball, so as to pocket it and return over line 1, in this way taking three chances to make a count. If he is playing caroms alone, it would be better for him to play on the left of the object-ball, so as to draw it back in the string, as near the other b.a.l.l.s as possible. To make the first stroke: strike the cue-ball A., R., with Q. P. 2; and if the object-ball be pocketed in the corner, as represented, the carom will be made on one of the b.a.l.l.s numbered 2 and 3. To make the second stroke: strike the cue-ball A., R., with Q. P. 2, the object-ball to be hit ? L.

BRINGING THE b.a.l.l.s TOGETHER.

The grand strength and science of the game consists in managing the b.a.l.l.s so as to leave them in a favourable position for the next play, or if the player considers it impossible to count, to leave them as safe as may be for his antagonist.

We cannot insist too strongly upon a perfect mastery of this art. After the player has acquired a thorough practical knowledge of the philosophy of the _follow_, the _force_ and the _twist_, the next great essential is the exercise of judgment with regard to the feasibility of strokes and their relative relation to the game. The term _judgment_ is applied to the choice of strokes. The player, for instance, may have two apparent shots; the first may recommend itself to him because it is more facile, but if made will leave the b.a.l.l.s safe, while the second, although more difficult, will, if successful, leave the b.a.l.l.s in a position where a second count or even a run can be effected. _Judgment_, therefore, would dictate that he should attempt the second, rather than the first.

The diagram annexed will ill.u.s.trate our remarks.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

Strike the cue-ball B., ? L., with Q. P. 2, the object-ball to be hit so as to make it roll over the lines, as represented, and the player will have a break of b.a.l.l.s, which, with judicious management, will enable him to effect a long run.

With one more ill.u.s.tration of this feature of scientific play we close our article.

To play the b.a.l.l.s as shown in the ill.u.s.tration following the player must strike the cue-ball a little below the centre, and with a deadened stroke, caroming gently on the second ball; the object-ball about one-third to the right. This carom should be practised until each position has become familiar to the player.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

In either practice or ordinary play the beginner should never play carelessly, or strike at random, but with some definite object in view; and if no eligible stroke presents itself, endeavour to leave the b.a.l.l.s as safe for your opponent as your skill will permit.

[_Note._--There are two exceptions to this rule. The first occurs in leading off, and has already been explained. The second is where the cue-ball, while at rest, is in contact with another ball. Then the player does not forfeit. It is impossible to cause the cue-ball to hit, by a direct stroke, the ball with which it is in contact, and the player should not be penalized for failing to accomplish an impossibility. But, as it is possible for him to count by playing _away_ from that ball--for example, by striking some other ball, or a cushion, _first_, or by taking up all the b.a.l.l.s if his own is in contact with two or more--it is a settled ruling that, in case he should pocket his ball either by accident or design, or send it over the table, or cause it to lodge upon the cushion, he must pay forfeit--_two_ points, if his ball was in contact with a white, and _three_ if with a red.]

THE CANADIAN GAME OF LA CROSSE.

The game of La Crosse, now known as the "National game" of the new dominion of Canada, is of Indian origin, and is the oldest and only legitimate American game of ball now in vogue. La Crosse was played among the American Indians before the tread of a "pale face" invaded the "native heath" of the red man, and consequently our British friends cannot claim the credit of even originating the basis of this game, as in base-ball, though La Crosse resembles the Scotch game of Golf.

An attractive feature of La Crosse is that it can be played when base-ball or cricket cannot. No rolling or levelling of grounds are required, and but a merely nominal expense for _materiel_. The rules of La Crosse are simple enough for a child to comprehend them; but yet it is a game capable of yielding a great degree of exciting sport, both to the young and old as partic.i.p.ants, and to both s.e.xes as spectators.

Moreover, wherever there is an ordinary field or common, if the gra.s.s be not too long, a ground is ready for a match. As regards the physical requisites and advantages, the former are the possession of pedestrian skill and endurance to a more or less degree, with considerable activity of movement, while the latter consist of the benefits the excitement of a contest and the rapid exercise the game yields, agility, speed, and endurance being developed in the process of becoming a skilful player in the game.

La Crosse is played by twelve men on each side. These twelve players occupy the following positions, viz.: goal-keeper, point, cover-point, centre, home, and seven fielders. The goal-keeper's duty is to defend the goal; point is the player occupying the position out in the field, and nearest the goal-keeper; cover-point fronts the latter's position; the "centre" is the player who faces the playing party in the centre of the field; home is the position of the player who stands nearest the goal of the opposing twelve; and the fielders skirmish round generally.

Each contesting twelve elect a captain to superintend the game, and they choose umpires and toss for choice of goal.

There are two umpires, and these select a referee, whose decision on disputed points is final.

The "crosse" is a species of battledore, the ball being in the place of the shuttlec.o.c.k, the difference being, that the portion of the bat formed by network is of a similar form to an English kite (see diagram).

The network requires to be strung tightly together, so as not to "bag,"

but to be quite level.

The ball is made of soft spongy rubber, not exceeding eight inches in circ.u.mference.