_First day, 10th._ Unable to sit up this morning. Dear Eli sat by my birth during meeting-hour, and our hearts were raised in aspiration heavenward. P. M. Able to sit up toward evening, and we concluded that it would be best to try for a meeting, which collected a little after sunset under a clear sky and a full moon, all canvas filled. The moon shed a mild intermingled gleam through the shrouds of our gallant ship, and delightful indeed were our meditations. The silence was at length broken by dear Eli in a feeling testimony to the universality of divine grace. The people were encouraged to forsake their sins and come to Jesus the Saviour of the world. It was a sweet, heavenly season. We felt to tell them that it was not a light thing to be thus remembered by Him who rolls the planets in their spheres. A great change is apparent in all on board. Everything is almost as we could wish, compared with what it was when we came. May we do nothing to diminish the reputation of our beloved Society!

The captain says that we are about six hundred miles from the coast of Africa in a straight line.

_14th of 8th mo._ Saw a whale to-day: shall pa.s.s the tropic of Cancer to-night; chilly. About two days' sail from Cape Verde.

_17th._ Cool and pleasant, very different from expectation in a tropical climate. I have been ill to-day; dear Eli somewhat better. It being First day, we were present in spirit with our friends at home in their meeting. Spoke a ship, and the captain and dear Eli took boat and went off to her. She proved to be the St. Paul, bound to Cowes. We sent a few lines home by her.

_20th._ A dreadful storm is on the main, and our ship is like a leaf in the winds. Several sails are split, and we may lose all before morning.

_21st._ My dear Eli is not able to sit up much, which saddens me.

_25th._ But little progress. I do not feel much anxiety but for my dear Eli, who seems failing every day from loss of appet.i.te and want of things to make him comfortable, and for the poor emigrants, many of whom suffer from the same causes.

_26th._ This evening there is quite an excitement on board. My Eli discovered land; the captain thinks it may be Grand Cape Mount. The captain just called us on deck and a novel scene presented itself. Our ship seemed gliding through a stream of liquid fire, while each crested wave shed a beautiful silver light amid sparkling gems that bespangled the whole face of the deep. Thinking we might soon reach land, it seemed right to have another opportunity with the emigrants, which we obtained this P. M. We felt an impression that some one present would soon be taken home to rest in Jesus. It proved a satisfactory season, thankfully received by them.

_28th._ This morning early we were saluted with the joyful intelligence that we were near Cape Mesurado. We hastened on deck, and once more beheld the "dark green robes of earth," which never seems so lovely as after a sea-voyage. The n.o.ble promontory is nearly covered with a thick forest, interwoven with luxuriant vines that hang in rich drapery from the branches of the trees, and the stately palm tree rears its lofty head high in air, like some tall cliff. It was Nature in her chastest charms arrayed. Soon my thoughts were diverted from this deeply interesting scene to one as novel as can well be imagined.

The native canoes appeared, manned by natives without clothing. Soon the water seemed almost alive with them, and the air rang with strange sounds. We made ready to go on sh.o.r.e. I cannot describe my feelings at this moment, but, like Peter, I thought that I must call nothing common or unclean that G.o.d had cleansed. The captain, dear Eli, and I were soon seated in one of our boats manned by natives, and in a few minutes pa.s.sed the bar in safety and reached the city of Monrovia, just in rear of the cape, and with grateful emotions set our feet on the sh.o.r.es of Africa.

B. V. R. James welcomed us to the sh.o.r.e, and kindly invited us to go to his house and refresh ourselves. We proceeded up a gentle ascent through the city as far as his house--were pleasantly received; took breakfast and dined with them. Called on President Roberts and his wife, who received us cordially; delivered our papers and letters; they kindly invited us to call again and make our home with them if agreeable. Called also at James B. McGill's, a very interesting family, and returned before nightfall to our floating home. It has been a fine day, though in the midst of the rainy season.

_29th._ Just returned from sh.o.r.e; had a pleasant day and a delightful walk. Took breakfast at James McGill's, who with his pleasant wife entertained us very cheerfully. Dined with Beverly Wilson, a Methodist minister, who with his wife interested us highly. Visited the Alexander high school, B. V. R. James teacher. It contained seventy scholars, fifty of whom were present. They reflected credit on their competent teacher by their advancement and circ.u.mspect demeanor. We thought them as good scholars as those of the same age in America. We imparted some religious instruction and suggested some trifling improvements, with which the pious teacher and pupils seemed pleased.

One is our Master, even Christ, and all we are brethren.

_30th._ Morning rainy; dear Eli has been ash.o.r.e; thinks the place increases in interest every time he visits it. He has made two appointments for to-morrow, one at the Methodist and one at the Baptist house.

_31st, First day._ Morning rainy, but we thought best to try and meet our appointments. Arrived in time, but got somewhat wet; changed clothes. We felt it to be no ordinary occasion as we pa.s.sed through the throng to our seats and then mingled in sweet and sacred communion for the first time with dear brethren and sisters in a distant land, for whose souls we had long borne the burden of a dying Saviour's love. The silence was impressive, and the streams of that river that gladdens the heritage of G.o.d circulated sweetly through the a.s.sembly.

The holy fervor of gospel love filled our hearts to the great abasedness of the creature. Ability was given us to show forth that living faith that works by love to the purifying of the heart, and to point out the difference between this saving faith and a dead faith that the world and its spirit will overcome. We were melted together as the heart of one man. The Lord reigned gloriously. At the close of this solemnity the people wished to get our hands, giving demonstrations of great joy at meeting us, and bidding us welcome to their sh.o.r.es with great blessing. Dined at James B. McGill's. Our afternoon meeting was increasingly interesting. We were led to explain the nature of that worship which only can be acceptable to G.o.d.

Returned to our ship with the testimony sealed upon our heads. Not unto us, but unto Thy great Name, be all the honor.

_9th mo. 1st._ Morning rainy; had to remain in the packet; evening more pleasant. Pa.s.sed our time in writing, reading, etc.

_9th mo. 2d, Third day._ Morning rainy; dear E. went ash.o.r.e. He seems quite improved, which is very cheering. We feel quite at home on board, though far away dwell the hearts bound to us by the tenderest ties.

_3d._ We went on sh.o.r.e and called on Sarah Smith, a pious colored woman who keeps a place of refreshment; then called on President Roberts and wife, and had a very interesting conversation on several subjects relative to the interest and welfare of the republic. The President was truly courteous and affable. In his manner there is an elegant simplicity adorned with Christian piety. He said, "I am truly thankful the Lord has sent you here, and for your prayers for us in your native land." His wife's highest ornament is piety, which is sweetly cherished in her gentle heart. After dinner, accompanied by the President and his wife, we repaired to the Presbyterian place of worship (a previous appointment). The house was crowded, but orderly and still. It was given us to deal very plainly with the people.

_4th._ Raining; dear E. went on sh.o.r.e and visited a native town, with which he was much interested. I felt the privation of remaining in the ship; I was somewhat impatient at being confined in my cage-like cabin. The deck being very wet, I was somewhat circ.u.mscribed, but in settling up the day's accounts I did not feel fully satisfied, and my earnest prayer is that I may keep my mind stayed on the Lord.

_5th._ Just returned from sh.o.r.e; have enjoyed the day much. Visited a private school taught by Georgianna Johnson, and suggested some improvements. Called on President Roberts and wife (they being directors of two or more female benevolent societies) to obtain their consent to meet those societies at their own time and place. We met them the following day, and had a very interesting conference.

Suggested some improvements, such as ameliorating the condition of those immigrants, many of whom are dest.i.tute of employment or not willing to work, who lead a wretched life of indolence and consequently vice. The President said that it was a source of much solicitude to himself; he was fearful of the continuance of this state of things. We suggested a house of industry. This struck him pleasantly as the very antidote needed. Called at George R. Ellis's, who is a magistrate. We were kindly received.

_6th._ Went on sh.o.r.e; had a very interesting opportunity with the Ladies' a.s.sociation (some of the most intelligent females in Liberia).

They managed their business in a correct and orderly manner, and by their records and accounts show that they are doing much for suffering humanity here. The emanc.i.p.ated slaves are sent here nearly penniless, except their portion of land, which is an unbroken forest, and six months' provisions, which are exhausted during the process of acclimating. The fever reduces them much. It is the judgment of the most intelligent residents of Liberia that it is best for the immigrants soon after their arrival to take up their farms and work a small portion of each day, clearing their land and planting sweet potatoes, and with the abundance of fruit growing around them they could live comfortably. This has been tried by some, and far less die.

With the fever much depends on keeping up the courage; there is but little chance for those who abandon exercise.

_7th._ We went on sh.o.r.e at an early hour; took breakfast at Uriah McGill's. Went to a First-day school containing ninety-four children, twenty-five of whom are natives; the latter are not able to read the Bible. At half-past two attended a meeting for the children. The Baptist house, being the largest, was selected, and was well filled; they were orderly and attentive. I trust impressions were made that will never be effaced.

_8th._ E. went on sh.o.r.e. In the afternoon he returned with our valued friend James B. McGill and two colored ladies, with their servants, the latter going to Greenville, Sinon county. We left the sh.o.r.es of Monrovia with a comfortable evidence that our labors were acceptable to Him who had sent us forth. We were quite cheered with the prospect of saying that we had personal acquaintances in Liberia.

_9th._ Anch.o.r.ed in Ba.s.sa Cove. Thank G.o.d for the blessings and mercies that have attended us on this emba.s.sy of love!

_11th._ Came to anchor off Greenville.

_13th._ Went on sh.o.r.e and made arrangements for meetings--in the morning at the Baptist house, in the afternoon at the Presbyterian.

The Methodist minister cordially invited us to attend the afternoon sitting of the quarterly meeting, saying the meeting should be at our disposal to worship in our own way. We were refreshed in the Lord.

_First day, 14th._ Had good meetings. At the Presbyterian house many stood about, not able to get inside. We were blessed together in heavenly places. Dined at Judge Murray's.

_Second day, 15th._ Set sail for Cape Palmas; anch.o.r.ed on account of head winds. I fear we cannot visit the town, Settra Kroo.

_16th._ We are in sight of Settra Kroo still. May the Lord keep us in safety!

_17th._ At anchor off Nasma Kroo; went on sh.o.r.e; called at the only two colonist houses there, then visited the native village. Here a strange scene presented itself: the females were entirely naked, except a small covering about the loins, mothers with their naked infants on their backs, from one month old and upward; la.s.ses with their skin painted indelible black and shining with palm oil, with which they are besmeared, came in crowds and surrounded us, gazing at me, crying, "White mammy;" others ran from us with fear. We gave the mothers some crackers, and soon every one that could get a child (sometimes quite as big as the pretended mother herself) had one packed on her back to get a cracker also. They are a very shrewd people--fine forms and well-proportioned. We visited the queen, who has a separate room in the king's house. He was absent; she received us quite graciously: her body was striped with white paint. We thought best to try for a meeting. The king's house was selected. One of the natives undertook to notify the meeting. He pa.s.sed on before us, stopping at each house, and very soon the people might be seen running from every point toward the house where they were to have a "G.o.d palaver," as they call it. A number gathered. A native named Giando undertook to interpret for us. They were attentive--promised with clamorous acclamation that they would do as we told them. The meeting was relieving, and we have great cause for grat.i.tude. Before we left the village several females had painted their faces white, which made them look ridiculous in the extreme.

_18th._ Set sail for Cape Palmas again. Came to anchor after sunset.

_19th._ Went on sh.o.r.e; called at Dr. McGill's; they received us pleasantly. He occupies the vacancy made by the lamented death of Governor Rupworm. Dined at F. Burns's, the Methodist minister. We were interested in the information they gave us of the colony and natives. The latter have three villages very compact, and with all the heathen customs, the most disgusting of which is their unclad forms that are seen in every direction, forming a striking contrast to the neat dwellings, decent clothing, and intelligent countenances of the colonists. On the outermost point of this high promontory is a lighthouse, and about it the colonists' houses stand surrounded with fine gardens and the beautiful African fruit trees. Made an appointment at the Methodist house for to-morrow.

_20th._ We have not been able to meet our appointment, the swell is so great. We have been somewhat disappointed in not getting to town, but are sure that all is well under the supervision of Him who commands the elements in His own consummate wisdom.

_21st, First day._ Beautiful morning; got safely on sh.o.r.e, and had a large meeting in the Methodist house. In the sweet covenant of peace and joy the meeting closed.

_22nd._ Got on sh.o.r.e, and rode in a small carriage drawn by natives about two miles into the country, accompanied by Dr. McGill and his amiable wife. Delighted with the scenery. The dwellings of the colonists are comfortable, but most of their farms are uncultivated; very rich soil. We have a strong apology to make for the indolence in Africa: most of the settlers. .h.i.therto are emanc.i.p.ated slaves, worn out with hard service in the land of oppression, from which they have been sent after their spirits and strength are wasted by unrequited toil.

Then they meet this enervating climate. A number of energetic husbandmen should be sent out with every colony to inspire them.

Manual-labor schools would doubtless succeed here, but the present operations must fail to arrive at the happy results antic.i.p.ated by the philanthropists.

_23d._ Went on sh.o.r.e and had a most interesting meeting with the children. Many youthful eyes were bedewed with tears as they heard the glad tidings of a Saviour's love.

_24th._ Had a meeting at the Episcopal house. The Lord was with us. We gave books and tracts.

_25th._ We were saddened by the conviction that some of us would meet no more on earth. We left Cape Palmas with an additional interest for Africa. We feel that we are only the pioneers--that the Lord will send yet more honorable members of his household to this land.

_27th._ Very weak. Came to anchor off Sinon. My E. went on sh.o.r.e, but I thought best to remain, write, and arrange for to-morrow. E.

returned wearied, but much delighted with his excursion into the country.

_28th._ Went early on sh.o.r.e, and, taking our vessel's boat and crew, proceeded up the Sinon River about two miles to a colonist settlement.

Our meeting was well attended and the word was heard with gladness. We walked in a footpath some distance in a smart shower, and were wet and much fatigued. Rested and dried our clothes a little before the meeting. The people more industrious than any we have seen before in Liberia.

_30th._ Went on sh.o.r.e; had a meeting in the Baptist house. It was a final parting and a heavenly season. No doubt that we shall have the prayers of these dear people.

_10th mo. 3d._ Anch.o.r.ed this P. M. off Ba.s.sa.

_4th._ Went on sh.o.r.e, but with much difficulty, it being the worst bar on the coast. We proceeded along the coast until we found a place to land in safety. The natives managed with great skill, and as soon as we came near land they sprang into the water and caught me, and in a minute set me down high and dry, seemingly highly gratified, exclaiming "Mammy no wet." We called at a little cabin and got a cup of tea made, and when the rain subsided we proceeded to the town.

Beautiful country, covered with orange trees and guava, but farms sadly neglected. I think the plough is needed as much as missionary labors, for without the former the latter cannot accomplish much.

P. M. Very rainy; had a ride in a hammock, or rather a subst.i.tute for one--a piece of native cloth with the ends fastened together with ropes, and a pole pa.s.sed through loops; the poles rested on the natives' shoulders. It was placed on the ground for me to step in and lie down, but I begged the privilege of walking, which was refused, as it would injure my health, for the rain was pouring. I did not like it, although I did not get wet. The idea of a bier was constantly presenting itself, together with the fear that it was too great a burden for the poor natives. A terrible storm came up on our way back to the ship, and we nearly lost our lives in the angry waves.

_5th, First day._ Had a meeting in the evening on board, as it was very rainy. In retirement this day we could say with the Psalmist, "How precious are thy thoughts unto me!"