In all three of the brooder houses the young ducks are supplied with their drinking water from pipes through the houses. They are not given access to water until they are moved to the yards.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 27. Brooder house No. 3. At the time this picture was taken there were no ducklings in the house and advantage was taken of this fact to give it a good cleaning by throwing out the bedding and droppings, which will be hauled away and spread on cropped land.

(_Photograph from the Bureau of Animal Industry, U. S. Department of Agriculture._)]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 28. Long brooder house and yards with feeding track.

(_Photograph from the Bureau of Animal Industry, U. S. Department of Agriculture._)]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 29. Upper--Pekin ducklings 3 days old. Lower--Pekin ducklings 2 weeks old. Duck egg used for size comparison. (_Photographs from the Bureau of Animal Industry, U. S. Department of Agriculture._)]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 30. Upper--Pekin ducklings 3 weeks old. Lower--Pekin ducklings 6 weeks old. (_Photographs from the Bureau of Animal Industry, U. S. Department of Agriculture._)]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 31. Interior of a cold brooder house. The low part.i.tions can easily be stepped over. (_Photograph from the Bureau of Animal Industry, U. S. Department of Agriculture._)]

Yard Accommodations for Ducklings

As the ducklings get to be 8 weeks old they can stand ordinary weather conditions and it is not absolutely necessary to have houses for them.

However, it is common and good practice to provide shelter where they can be housed at night and can take refuge from storms. A suitable house for this purpose consists of a building 16 24 feet divided into two parts with 200 ducklings to a side. This house is 5 feet high in front and 3 feet in back. It is set on posts with a baseboard around it to make it tight. It can be constructed of matched stuff or unmatched stuff covered with paper. The front is left open but curtains are placed on the front which can be used to close the openings so as to keep out the snow. These are used only in the winter. When the ducklings are first started in these sheds they are shut in when desired by means of wire panels fitted into the lower part of the open front. The ducklings are left in these yards and fed there until they are ready for market.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 32. Eat, drink and grow fat for tomorrow they die.

Fattening or yard ducks with fattening house or shelter used.

(_Photograph from the Bureau of Animal Industry, U. S. Department of Agriculture._)]

_Shade._ Shade is important for the ducklings as soon as the sun gets hot. Exposure to the sun without shade will cause quite a heavy loss in ducklings. If natural shade is not furnished by trees, some artificial means must be adopted to supply the shade. This may take the form of shelters or low frames covered with boards, brush or burlap.

_Feeding._ The first feed and water is given as soon as the ducks are placed in the No. 1 brooder house or when 24 to 36 hours old. They are fed 3 times a day, in the morning about 6 a. m., at noon, and at night about 4:30 or 5 o'clock. The time of feeding should be regular, and fairly early in the morning but not any earlier in the afternoon than one can help so that the time between the evening and the morning feed will not be too long. Some growers prefer to feed 4 or 5 times daily for the first week or two. The birds are fed as much as they will clean up at each feeding and if any feed is left it should be gathered up so that it will not sour and cause digestive troubles.

The first feed consists of the following:--One measure corn meal, one measure bran, one measure ground crackers, stale bread or shredded wheat waste, one measure in 10 of beef sc.r.a.p or fish, one measure in 6 of creek gra.s.s or other very fine green stuff. Green rye or oats should never be used for this purpose after it becomes jointed. If the feed is mixed up with cold water about measure of low-grade wheat flour should be used to cause it to stick together. If hot water is used in the mixing this is not needed.

Sand must be fed either by mixing it in to the extent of about 3% of the ration or the sand can be fed separately in hoppers as previously described. This same mixture may be fed in the No. 1, No. 2, and No. 3 brooder houses, or in other words, until ducklings go to the yards, or ration No. 2 given below may be subst.i.tuted either at the start or after a week or ten days. After the ducklings go to the yards the following fattening ration is used: 200 pounds corn meal, 100 pounds low-grade flour, 100 pounds bran, 1 part in 10 of beef sc.r.a.p and 2 tubs or bushels of green stuff. Some duck growers prefer to feed 300 pounds of corn meal instead of 200 pounds. This ration like the other is fed 3 times a day.

Of course, there are many different rations in use with good results, every grower having more or less personal preferences in this matter. A proper proportion of animal feed, consisting of beef sc.r.a.p or fish is very important as the ducklings will not grow and make normal gains if this is omitted or reduced in amount.

Much has been written about the feeding of celery seed to fattening ducklings for the purpose of improving the flavor of the flesh and formerly ducklings were advertised and sold as "celery-fed". As a matter of fact, the amount of celery seed fed was small and it is questionable how much influence it had on the flavor of the birds. At the present time, celery seed is not used in fattening the ducklings on most of the large duck farms of Long Island.

A comparison of gains made by ducklings on two different rations is shown in the following table. Ration No. 1 consists of the fattening ration given above. Ration No. 2 consists of 100 pounds bran, 100 pounds corn meal, 50 pounds rolled oats, 50 pounds gluten feed, 10% beef sc.r.a.p.

The ducks used were three days old at the first weighing and there were 27 in each lot. After the second weighing the number in each lot was reduced to 24 ducks.

Feed No. 1 Feed No. 2 Total Weight Average Weight Total Weight Average Wt August 14 4 lbs. 0.176 4 lbs. 0.176 August 21 10 " 0.37 9 " 0.352 August 28 16 " 0.687 17 " 0.729 September 5 25 " 1.041 27 " 1.125 September 13 44 " 1.854 48 " 2.02 September 19 50 " 2.083 56 " 2.354 September 27 64 " 2.666 67 " 2.62 October 4 78 " 3.27 82 " 3.437 October 11 99 " 4.145 103 " 4.312 October 18 115 " 4.812 119 " 4.958 October 25 126 " 5.25 135 " 5.62

_Lights for Ducklings._ Often when the ducks are about one-third grown or about 4 weeks old they will stampede at night at any unusual noise or any other disturbance. In doing this, especially when they are in fairly large lots, they surge back and forth in the pens, running over one another with the result that their backs are torn and scratched while not infrequently more serious injuries result and may cause cripples.

To keep them quiet it is common to use lights at night. Formerly lanterns were used but now on most duck plants electric lights are available for this purpose. For a house 140 feet long, six 15-watt lights scattered at equal intervals will be sufficient, and these can be used in like proportion for houses of other lengths. The lights are left on all night. Even when the ducks are half grown and may be out on the yards it is still necessary to use lights on stormy nights so that they will stay in and keep quiet and not get drowned in the rain. With a 16 24 foot house such as described previously, a single 25 watt light is sufficient. Ducklings are especially likely to be stampeded during thunderstorms and if a storm is coming up it is well to turn on the lights and to shut the ducklings in their shelters when they are first placed in the yards. One should not carry a lantern when moving among the ducklings at night as this will cause moving shadows which are very likely to frighten and stampede the birds.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 33. Another type of duck shed used on Long Island.

(_Photograph from the Bureau of Animal Industry, U. S. Department of Agriculture._)]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 34. Convenient feeding arrangements. At the right of the feeding track runs a water pipe with spigots and pans at frequent intervals. At the left are the feeding trays. (_Photograph from the Bureau of Animal Industry, U. S. Department of Agriculture._)]

_Pounds of Feed to Produce a Pound of Market Duck._ It is stated by long established duck growers that from 5 to 7 pounds of feed is required, this including the feed given to the breeding ducks for the season, to produce a pound of market duck.

_Water for Young Ducks._ Drinking water is provided to the ducklings while in the brooder houses by means of a piped supply. The drinking pans are filled at each feeding time but at no other time. Water is not left before them continuously while they are in the brooder houses as they would be working in it all the time and this would keep them dirty and make the house sloppy. After they are put out on the yards they may or may not be provided with water in which they can swim. Most duck growers on Long Island allow them to have access to water. While it is undoubtedly true that swimming in the water induces them to take more exercise and thus tends to reduce somewhat the rapidity of fattening, at the same time it lessens the labor very materially as they do not need to be provided with a supply of drinking water other than the water in which they swim. Ducklings can be grown very successfully with only a limited amount of water, that is, only enough to drink and in which to wash themselves.

_Age and Weight When Ready for Market._ Ducklings are usually marketed when they are 10 to 12 weeks old. A partial moult on the neck and breast occurs about this time giving them a somewhat rough look. This indicates that they are in proper condition to kill. If killing is not done within a week after this moult starts they will begin to lose flesh and it will be some time before they will fatten again. Ducks when ready to ship will average from 5 to 6 pounds. A majority will weigh nearer 5 than 6 pounds. A pen of fattened ducks is driven up to the killing house and into a pen where each one is caught up and examined to see if it is in good condition. If the duck has a good smooth breast so that the breastbone is not felt when handled and is well fleshed on the back it is ready to kill. If it is not in this condition it is thrown out and these thin ducks are returned to the yards for further fattening or are utilized for shipping alive. Thin ducks are generally used for live shipments as they will not shrink as much as well fattened ducks.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 35. An important part of rations for ducks. Green feed ready to be cut up into short lengths suitable for mixing in the feed. (_Photograph from the Bureau of Animal Industry, U. S. Department of Agriculture._)]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 36. Feeding fattening or yard ducks from the feeding track. (_Photograph from the Bureau of Animal Industry, U. S. Department of Agriculture._)]

_Cripples._ There will always be found in the flocks more or less crippled ducks and those with crooked backs, twisted wings, etc. As a rule ducks with twisted wings fatten well and are in good condition and can be killed about as soon as any of the others. The crippled ducks are sorted out into a lot by themselves where they are held until they can be put into condition to market. It is doubtful whether it pays the duck growers to bother with these ducks since they are rather difficult to condition and it would probably pay better to kill them. However, it is quite common practice to carry them until they can be marketed.

_Cleaning the Yards._ The yards must be cleaned whenever they need it.

It is a matter of judgment to decide when this is necessary but they must be cleaned whenever they get sticky or sloppy. The weather will have a considerable influence upon the frequency of cleaning which may be necessary once in two weeks, or in the yards of brooder houses Nos. 2 and 3 may run as often as once a week. In dry weather the yards are cleaned by sweeping up the droppings and carting them away. In wet weather the ducks in running about over the yard pack down the droppings until they form a sort of putty-like layer which has to be sc.r.a.ped off with a hoe.

_Critical Period with Young Ducks._ The critical period with young ducks is the first week of their existence. With good management after they have pa.s.sed this point not many are lost. The loss in young ducks from the time they are hatched until they are ready for market will range all the way from 5 to 30%. When the loss does not average more than 10% for the season this is considered good. Undoubtedly many duck raisers lose a greater percent than 10.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 37. Yard ducks at rest. (_Photograph from the Bureau of Animal Industry. U. S. Department of Agriculture._)]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 38. On this plant, the lay of the land was such that not all of the yards could be run down to the stream. So a shallow ca.n.a.l was dug from the stream through the yards which were without natural water frontage. (_Photograph from the Bureau of Animal Industry, U. S.

Department of Agriculture._)]

Disease Prevention

Trouble from disease in young ducks is not severe although there is a greater loss from this source than in the case of mature ducks. The aim of the grower should be to use such methods of management and feeding as will keep the ducklings in good health and reduce the losses to a minimum. To accomplish this care must be taken to see that the brooding temperatures are correct, that the feed used contains what the ducklings need, that they are not overfed and that the house and yards are clean and dry and the feed and water dishes are clean. Remember that green feed and animal feed are essential ingredients in the ration.

_Gapes or Pneumonia._ One of the princ.i.p.al troubles is a disease which is called "pneumonia" by some duck raisers and by others "gapes". It is not the same disease which is called gapes in chickens. In fact, it is a form of cold which approaches pneumonia. The little ducks stretch their necks up and breathe hard and usually die within a comparatively short time. This disease may affect either the baby ducks or ducks which are old enough to kill. All that can be done is to make sure that the housing and brooding conditions are such as to correct the trouble which causes the colds.

_Fits._ In addition, the little ducks for the first 3 or 4 days may be more or less subject to a disease which is called "fits" by some duck growers. With this disease they simply keel over and soon die. It is probably a digestive difficulty of some sort. The feeding of plenty of green stuff or the turning of the ducks out on gra.s.s will usually stop this trouble.

_Diarrhoea._ This is a fairly common trouble. It may be due to improper feeding, or to too high or low temperature in the brooder. The obvious treatment is to remedy the cause or causes of the trouble.

_Lameness._ Not infrequently growers, particularly beginners, experience difficulty from a fairly large proportion of their ducklings becoming lame. This may grow worse until a considerable number of the birds will die. This trouble may be due to a lack of animal matter and mineral matter in the ration or may be due to digestive troubles caused by poor rations, by over feeding, by failing to gather up feed not eaten by the ducklings and leaving it to sour, or by lack of cleanliness of the feed and water dishes. Where the pens are allowed to become damp and sloppy this may also cause some lameness.

_Sore Eyes._ Occasionally duck growers complain that their ducklings suffer from sore eyes. This may be due to a cold causing a discharge from the eyes or may be due to the use of too sloppy feed which adheres to the eyes and causes an irritation. Affected birds should be placed in a separate pen from the others and the eyes should be bathed with an antiseptic solution.

_Feather Eating or "Quilling"._ This is a bad habit which is apt to cause more or less trouble when the ducklings are about two-thirds grown. It is much more likely to occur when the birds are kept in cramped quarters. It is usually started by one or a few individuals but when the feathers are injured so that they begin to bleed, which they will very quickly do, the vice will spread among the whole flock and serious damage will occur. It is therefore necessary to be on the lookout for this trouble, and as soon as detected, the birds responsible should be removed. If the culprits are placed with older birds which are already feathered, they will not trouble by trying to eat the feathers.

It is the blood in the growing feathers which attracts them. If the habit has become general, it is more difficult to check. About the best thing that can be done, is to turn them out in a roomy yard, one with a growing green crop, if available, where they will be so busy as to stop the feather eating of their own accord.

_Rats._--Rats are very destructive if they get into the brooder house. A single rat has been known to kill and drag off as many as 200 ducklings in one night. If a rat gets into the brooder house it is therefore of the utmost importance that it be hunted down and killed without delay.

Otherwise serious losses will result.

Cooperative Feed a.s.sociation

A very large proportion of the feed used on a duck plant is that which is fed to the market ducks. By purchasing feed in considerable quant.i.ties the duck grower is able to cut down the cost to some extent.

A number of the duck raisers on Long Island have developed this idea further by forming a cooperative feed organization. Stock in this concern is held both by the duck growers and by outsiders but is controlled by the duck growers. The feed a.s.sociation maintains a feed warehouse, purchases feeds in quant.i.ty and does business both with the duck growers and with other persons in the market for feed. The existence of a cooperative feed purchasing a.s.sociation of this sort not only cuts down to some extent the cost of feed but likewise makes it possible for the duck growers to have greater a.s.surance of securing the supply which is so necessary to them during the growing season.

CHAPTER VII