The good encouragement it has lately received has, to a certain extent, a.s.sisted in bringing it back to the position of one of the most thriving colonies in Australia; though we must attribute much of its present prosperity to the impulse originally given by the policy of Colonel Gawler, which, though it may have caused a temporary financial embarra.s.sment, is now making its happy effects sensibly felt.

THE OVERLANDERS.

The eastern extent of the country of South Australia was determined by the Overlanders, as they call the gentlemen who bring stock from New South Wales. The first that came across were Messrs. Bonny and Horden. An interesting account of them will be found in Captain Grey's work. Many of these pioneers of civilization endure extraordinary hardships during their expeditions; as an example of which I may mention that Mr. Bonny, in endeavouring to find a new route, was compelled to kill a calf and drink its blood to save his life. On this occasion water was found by the cattle, turned loose for that purpose. Another gentleman, who had lost his way in the bush, had recourse to a curious expedient to a.s.suage his burning thirst, namely, to bleed the horse he rode, which was the means of preserving both himself and the quadruped also.

On our arrival in Adelaide the town was full of the Overlanders, and everyone was engaged in buying or selling stock, which gave the place quite an animated appearance. From one of these gentlemen I learned undeniable proofs that the Australians indulge in cannibalism. He had seen in a woman's bag the hand of a child that had been partly eaten.

Since that time the matter has been placed beyond a doubt by the report of the Protector, Mr. Sievewright, who witnessed with his own eyes a most horrible feast off the body of a young woman.* It is extraordinary that a custom so remarkable should have so long wanted confirmation.

(*Footnote. See Mr. Eyre's Discoveries in Central Australia.)

CAPTAIN STURT.

At Adelaide I had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of the intrepid traveller Captain Sturt, who has since again taken the field, endeavouring to penetrate to the interior of the Australian continent, and to remove the veil of mystery that now hangs over it. From him I learnt that the same strange kind of bird, a species of rail, that once visited Swan River, also made its appearance in South Australia on one occasion. I have already alluded to this remarkable circ.u.mstance in a former chapter.

During our stay we visited Mount Lofty, placed by our observations in lat.i.tude 34 degrees 58 minutes 20 seconds South, and longitude 12 degrees 30 minutes 20 seconds West of Sydney. The cool air of this range, the greatest elevation of which is 2200 feet, was very pleasant after a ride over the heated plain. I was agreeably surprised to find in the heart of the hills a most comfortable inn, where our party sat down to a luncheon of lamb chops and green peas, with a beautiful cool bottle of sherry.

Such is the march of civilization! To the north of our road was a lead mine, which will ultimately be a source of great riches to the colony; for which, indeed, nature has done much in the way of mineral productions.

NATIVE SCHOOLS.

I was greatly pleased with the apparent success that had attended the schools of the German Missionaries; and especially with the apt.i.tude for learning displayed by both boys and girls; but my pleasure would have been much increased had I not felt convinced that the system of education adopted, possessed many serious defects. In the first place, sufficient care did not seem to have been taken to recommend the schools to the natives, and to induce them to send their children voluntarily. That it was necessary to resort to some means of effecting this beyond mere persuasion, will be evident when we recollect how useful even the youngest member of an Australian family is to its parents. Almost as soon as the child begins to walk, certainly as soon as it is capable of receiving instruction, light tasks, even in the hunting expeditions, are allotted to it; so that, to remove either boys or girls, and take them to school, is, in reality, to deprive their friends of a.s.sistance, which to them is valuable. For this reason, some compensating advantage should be offered to the father, to prevail on him to send his children to school.

Again, when once pupils have been procured, it is exceedingly unwise to allow them to maintain a constant intercourse with their tribe, and be thus subjected to deteriorating influences that must almost irresistibly combat the beneficial effects of their education. But it is needless to dwell further on this subject, as Mr. Eyre has so completely stated the question in his late work.

REMARKS ON THE SYSTEM FOR CIVILISING THE NATIVES.

I cannot, however, refrain from alluding to another point in connection with this matter; namely, that when I visited South Australia, all instruction was communicated in the native language. My attention had already been drawn to the subject on visiting Tahiti, in 1835, when I perceived with regret, that the missionaries, instead of endeavouring to introduce the English tongue, persisted in imparting instruction in a kind of corrupted dialect, of which the words were for the most part native, whilst the syntax and construction were in exact conformity with our own; the observation of the same circ.u.mstance at New Zealand, had further induced me to reflect on the subject. How much more prudent would it have been to introduce, at once, the language of Great Britain into the islands of the Pacific; as, judging from every indication, it must ultimately prevail over the vast variety of primitive and imperfect dialects now spoken; and which serve as barriers between the various tribes. That the same mistake should have been made in South Australia was the more remarkable, as public opinion seems to run completely counter to it. It appears evident indeed, that if the object was to benefit and civilize the aboriginal inhabitant, the right course to take, was to give him an instrument which he could employ to enlarge his mind and extend his experience. It was wrong to expect that much good could be done by confining him within the sphere in which his thoughts had been accustomed to move; or at any rate, to limit the expansion of his knowledge, within the bounds of a dialect which was only imperfectly understood by the masters who taught it. I am aware that the excellent men who adopted this plan, were fearful of allowing the natives to acquire a facility of communicating with the vicious part of the white population; but had they taken a more enlarged view, and considered the absolute impossibility of preventing a certain amount of intercourse--had they had more confidence in the better part of their own race, and reflected on the immense advantage which the inquisitive savage would derive from being enabled to put questions to men who could enlighten him by their answers, they would more speedily have effected their benevolent intentions. I am of opinion that no surer method of raising the Australian in the scale of civilization could have been devised, than to put him in possession of the English language; and I am glad to hear that the opinion I so early formed has at length been partially acted upon.

The natives will soon be open to an engagement on board a vessel, and may expect to emulate the New Zealanders, some of whom have risen to be mates; and to acquire the information and experience of which they stand so much in need. Whereas, were their knowledge confined to their own imperfect dialect, not only would they be unable to extend their acquaintance with other parts of the world, and with the arts of civilization, but they would remain, as many of them now are, actually incapable of communicating with many inhabitants of their own districts.

For it must be borne in mind, that very frequently, a tribe inhabiting one valley is ignorant of the language spoken in the next. So that to instruct them only in their own forms of speech, is not only difficult, since, on the death of each master someone else has to learn the grammar and vocabulary to supply his place, but absolutely tends to perpetuate the isolation in which the natives now live; and which is the main cause of the little development of their minds, and the inferior position they occupy in the scale of civilization.

LEAVE HOLDFAST ROAD.

We sailed from Holdfast Road, on December 7th, but in consequence of light winds, with occasional very heavy squalls, it was not until the afternoon of the 10th, that we got out to sea by Backstairs Pa.s.sage, between Cape Jervis and Kangaroo Island. On the morning of the 8th, we were obliged to shorten all sail to a very heavy squall from West-South-West, which announced its appearance by a distant roaring, some time before it was seen on the water. These squalls generally succeed the hot winds that prevail at this season in South Australia, coming from the interior.*

(*Footnote. During the hot winds we observed the thermometer, in the direct rays of the sun, to be 135 degrees.)

ARRIVE AT SYDNEY.

Easterly winds prevented us from entering Ba.s.s Strait until the 16th. In reaching in towards the coast, seven or eight miles west of Cape Otway, we found that it projected three or four miles too much on the charts.

Ba.s.s Strait appeared under a different aspect from what it had been accustomed to wear; light winds, by no means in keeping with our impatience, detaining us till the 21st, when we got a kick out of the eastern entrance from a strong south-wester, and afterwards had a good run up to Sydney, where we arrived on the 23rd.

CHAPTER 2.7.

Land Sales.

Unsettled boundaries.

New Zealand.

Hunter River.

Midnight alarm.

Ludicrous scene.

Changes in Officers of ship.

Leave Sydney.

Port Stephens.

Corrobory.

Gale at Cape Upstart.

Magnetical Island.

Halifax Bay.

Astonish a Native.

Description of country.

Correct chart.

Restoration Island.

Picturesque arrival.

Interview with the Natives from Torres Strait.

Their weapons.

Shoal near Endeavour River.

Discover good pa.s.sage through Endeavour Strait.

b.o.o.by Island.

New birds.

The Painted Quail.

LAND SALES.

No improvement had taken place in colonial affairs, and the sales of land, in consequence of the high price, were very limited. The fact was, the regulations that had recently been made gave very little satisfaction. By these the minimum price was fixed at one pound per acre; in consequence of which many predicted that millions of acres would be excluded from the market for ages to come, as it seemed not conceivable that any change could make them worth a quarter that sum, especially as on an average the natural gra.s.ses of the country will only support one sheep to four acres. The inevitable consequence was to prevent an augmentation of the emigration fund, which inflicted a serious evil on the colony, though by many the high price was considered a great boon, as it enabled them to enjoy, at a trifling charge, immense back runs, as safe from the intrusion of interlopers as if they had been granted by the Crown in perpetuity. It is my impression that the attempt to raise the largest sum of money by the sale of the smallest number of allotments is unwise, as it operates as a discouragement to small capitalists, who wish to occupy the land for themselves; it would in the end be more advantageous almost to give the land away, to a certain extent, in order to encourage people to go there. It may be worth remarking here, that on a rough calculation the pound per acre system would realise, supposing the whole continent were sold, the sum of about 1,679,616,000 pounds.

UNSETTLED BOUNDARIES.

The most curious circ.u.mstance connected with the division of land in New South Wales, is the uncertainty that prevails respecting the boundary line of estates, which must be the source of endless disputes and expensive litigation among the colonists. The whole arises from the system adopted of laying down the boundaries by the magnetic north instead of by the true. This is in itself no easy matter, owing to the local attraction and the difficulty of finding needles that agree. But the chief cause of endless change is the variation, which has progressively increased at Sydney since the colony was first formed, so as to make a difference in the boundary of a grant of land of one square mile in ten.

I will suppose a case in order to ill.u.s.trate my meaning. In the early days of the colony a piece of land is obtained by a person who merely performs the location duties, and does nothing to his estate until the present time, when he or his successor goes to occupy it. When the land was purchased the direction of the boundary line was, by compa.s.s North 20 degrees East; but the proprietor finds that in consequence of the increase of variation during the interval, a North 20 degrees East line by compa.s.s at this time would differ from what it was when his t.i.tle deeds were made out, one square mile in ten. As this change has at Sydney been progressive, and may indeed take a contrary direction, the boundary lines of grants of lands depending on it will vary accordingly, and afford endless food for the lawyers. A scientific friend of mine, who was once trying to remedy the evil in a particular instance, was entreated by one of that profession not to interfere, for by so doing he would be taking the bread out of the mouths of himself and his brethren.

NEW ZEALAND.

Since our last visit to Sydney the colonisation of New Zealand had taken place, but from what I heard of the loose system pursued by the Company of obtaining lands from the natives, I could not but form an opinion that those who bought lots of them must in the end be ruined; even their right to sell these lands at all was at the time much questioned. This being the case, the difficulty any Governor must have to contend with, who should attempt to solve the intricate problem involved in the land-question, was apparent, and it will be evident also that those who pretend to form a judgment on the conduct of Captain R. Fitzroy, must take into consideration the character of the people, both white and coloured, with whom he had to deal, and various other circ.u.mstances that are usually kept out of sight.

During our long stay at Sydney I visited the mouth of the Hunter, for the purpose of determining the position of Newcastle. The courthouse, according to my observations, is in lat.i.tude 32 degrees 55 minutes 50 seconds South and longitude 0 degrees 34 minutes 45 seconds East of Sydney. This is the district from which all the coal used in New South Wales is brought, and a good harbour is therefore of importance. A party of convicts were employed in building a breakwater, connecting a cliffy island at the entrance with the south point of the river, for the purpose of deepening the mouth, but I much question whether it will answer, as the silt that is washed down by the stream not finding its former exit may by meeting the sea form a bar.

In ascending the valley of the Hunter I saw sufficient to convince me that a railroad could easily be carried up from Newcastle to Maitland, and thence to Patrick's Plains.*

(*Footnote. It appears that a company having for its object the realization of this idea has just been formed.)

MIDNIGHT ALARM.

I cannot at this place resist the temptation of relating an anecdote, which, though it is not exactly connected with the subject of my work, may not be thought uninteresting by the reader. I was one night sleeping at a friend's house; all the family had retired to rest, and I have no doubt that a perfect stillness prevailed around. Suddenly, a noise like thunder startled me from my slumbers, and as soon as I was able to collect my scattered thoughts, I distinctly heard a series of violent blows against a door at the foot of the staircase leading up to my bedroom. Though the first impression might have been that the disturbance was caused by thieves breaking into the house, it appeared improbable that such characters should make their approach with so much clamour. I instantly leaped out of bed, and arrived in time to see a sight which I shall never forget.

LUDICROUS SCENE.

The owner of the house, who slept on the ground floor, equally astonished with myself at the noise, had also quitted his pillow, and, arming himself with a sword and taper, advanced, in the costumes of Iago, when he reappears upon the stage after stabbing Ca.s.sio and Rodorigo, towards the door against which the monotonous thumping still continued at regular intervals. It now appeared that the cause of his alarm was on the inside; and my host who believed that a party of robbers had introduced themselves into his premises, hailed them in a loud voice, promising that if they did not cease their hammering, and surrender, he would put them every one to death. So far from attending to his suggestion the thumps increased in rapidity and violence, and he had scarcely time to put himself in a defensive position when the door burst open and out rushed his a.s.sailants--a mult.i.tude of round figures of all sizes, without heads, legs, or arms! His first thought was that the supernatural existences of New South Wales had now for the first time revealed themselves to his eyes! Here was material for a fairytale! The genii of this country in which everything runs into leg were then it appeared all body! Such were the fancies that flashed through his mind as he made a desperate lunge at the advancing foe, one of whom he transfixed from breast to back, whilst the rest in an instant overthrew and trampled him under foot, if I may use the expression. And now arose a wild scream--of laughter from myself and the others who had witnessed this mortal combat, for the disturbers of our night's repose were no other than a number of huge pumpkins, which had been placed in a heap upon a press on the landing, and from having been perhaps carelessly piled had given way, and rolled, one by one, downstairs, acc.u.mulating at the bottom against the door, until by their weight they forced it open!

CHANGES ON BOARD THE BEAGLE.