Besides the sandstone of which the peak is composed, I found a kind of slate on the north-west side. Several banks showed themselves, leaving at that time of tide scarcely a boat channel, although the river was a mile wide at high-water. A great part of the day was occupied in collecting material for the chart of this part, and we pa.s.sed the night near the foot of Curiosity Peak. On the gra.s.sy flat opposite, I killed five white ibises at a shot.

At sunset, I noticed large flocks of a rather small brown pigeon, constantly flying from Whirlwind Plains to the north-west, and back again in the morning. The mosquitoes did not give us any peace again this night.

ENCOUNTER AN ALLIGATOR.

November 3.

Starting early, we had just pa.s.sed all the shoals in the neighbourhood of Curiosity Peak, and entered a narrow part of the river, when the leadsman in the bows of the boat reported, "A large alligator coming down the stream, sir." Elated by the expectation of sport, we instantly grounded the boat on the right bank to keep her steady, and waited anxiously for the monster's approach. It will readily be believed, that every eye was fixed upon him as he slowly advanced, scarcely disturbing the gla.s.sy surface of the water, and quite unconscious of the fate that impended over him. At length he came abreast, and about eighty yards off, only the flat crown of his head, and the partly serrated ridge along his back, appearing in sight. It was a moment of deep excitement for us all, and everyone held his breath in suspense as I pointed my gun at the brute's head.

EFFECT OF A SHOT.

I felt confident of hitting my mark; but judging from the little effect I had produced on former occasions, scarcely dreamt of the execution my ball actually did. It happened that to-day I was in excellent practice, and had just hit a large wild dog, a long shot, making him jump high off the ground; but this beast is as tenacious of life as a cat, and instead of falling dead, he limped off and escaped. But to resume: I fired, and never heard a ball strike with more satisfaction in my life. It laid the alligator sprawling, feet uppermost. There was no time to be lost in getting him on sh.o.r.e; two or three strokes with the oars brought us alongside of the monster, as he floated on the surface of the stream. The business was to attach a line to one of his legs; and as we knew that he was not dead, but only stunned, this was rather a nervous operation. I noticed indeed a hesitation among the men, as to who should venture, and fearing lest our prize should escape, I seized the line and made it fast to one of his fore-legs, when we proceeded to the sh.o.r.e, dragging him alongside. Before reaching it, however, our friend gave signs of reviving animation, and as we could not foresee to what extent he might regain his activity, we dropped him astern, clear of the boat, fearing lest in floundering about he might stave in her broadside. In doing so, moreover, and by way of a sedative, I fired a charge of large shot at his head, the muzzle of the gun not being a yard from it; and yet the only effect produced, was a slight stupor of the intellectual faculties, evinced by a momentary state of quiescence.

THE ALLIGATOR ON Sh.o.r.e.

On reaching the sh.o.r.e, the men jumped out to haul the alligator up on the dry land, and began to pull away vigorously. It was a comic scene to witness. They expected to have some difficulty in performing their task; but suddenly they found the rope slacken, and looking round beheld the alligator walking up after them of his own accord, faster than was pleasant. In their haste, endeavouring to keep the rope taut, one fellow tripped up; and it was for a moment a question whether he would not be snapped in two; the feeling of alarm, however, soon gave way to a sense of the ludicrous, at beholding the manner in which he gathered himself up into a ball and rolled out of the alligator's way. I thought it now high time to take decisive measures, and with another shot altered the intentions of the monster, who endeavoured to back towards the water.

Perhaps if he had been further away from it, I might have been tempted to try Waterton's experiment.

It was not before he had received six b.a.l.l.s in the head, that he consented to be killed. During the operation he exhibited something of his savoir faire, by opening his mouth, that looked like a gigantic man-trap, and suddenly shutting it with a loud snap, which made us shudder, and forcibly recalled to mind the escape I had had a few days before, from having my body embraced by such a pair of jaws.

The reader will gather a good idea of their size from the woodcut; and their power of holding will be shown in the description accompanying. The view annexed represents the moment when the alligator received the first shot on sh.o.r.e; the singular character of Sea Range is also shown, and the small whirlwinds I have alluded to, as having the appearance of smoke.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ALLIGATOR.

Length of Alligator, 15 feet. From base of head to extreme of nose 2 feet 2 inches. Across the base of head, 2 feet. Length of lower jaw, 2 feet.

Teeth in both jaws, vary in size, and are variously disposed, as will be seen above; in upper jaw on each side of maxillary bone, 18, 2 incisors.

Ditto in lower jaw, 15, 2 incisors. The largest teeth are 1 1/2 inch in length. The two lower incisors are stronger and longer than the upper, and project through two holes in front part of upper jaw.

Breadth across the animal, from extreme of one fore foot, across the shoulders to the other side, 5 feet 2 inches. The fore feet have each five perfect toes; the three inner or first, have long h.o.r.n.y nails, slightly curved; the two outer toes have no nails, nor are they webbed.

The third and fourth toes are deeply webbed, allowing a wide s.p.a.ce between them, which is apparent even in their pa.s.sive state. The hind feet have four long toes; the first two are webbed as far as the first joint, and the others are strongly webbed to the apex of last joint, the last or outer toe has no nail.

From the apex of tail, a central highly notched ridge runs up about midway of it, and there splits into two branches, which pa.s.s up on each side of the spine over the back, as far as the shoulders, gradually diminishing in height to their termination.

A central ridge runs down from the nape of the neck over the spinous processes of the vertebrae (being firmly attached to them by strong ligaments) as far down as the sacrum, diminishing to its termination likewise.

CONTENTS OF ITS STOMACH.

All the alligator's stomach contained was about fourteen pounds of pebbles, some of them measuring four inches in diameter. We were some time skinning the monster, and after securing a little of the best part of the flesh for eating,* proceeded on our way.

(*Footnote. The writer supped off alligator steaks, and informs the reader that the meat is by no means bad, and has a white appearance like veal.)

The river, as I have already said, ran along the base of Sea Range for some distance, when it turned off across the plain in a south-east direction.

BANKS OF THE VICTORIA.

The high land quite overlooked the stream, and enhanced the picturesque effect of the trees that rose in rich green ma.s.ses on the banks, which were here only about half a mile apart. The depth, however, was two fathoms, double what it had been for some distance before. We had now fairly turned our backs on Sea Range, and were crossing the plains in a south-east direction. On the part of the Victoria we had pa.s.sed were a few white ducks, with black or very dark brown wings. I noticed that the bill and legs were of a very pale pink, and they had a pale yellow eye.

They were evidently the same bird that I had seen at Port Essington.*

They were scarce and not met with in other parts of the river. Kangaroos were numerous on the banks, as we entered the plain, and during the day were to be seen in numbers under the bushes near the water's edge. I added one to our stock of fresh provisions, which with alligator steaks and ducks, gave us a good supply to share with the other boats. We named this part of the river Long Reach, from its carrying us nine miles in a direct course, with a general width of a quarter of a mile, and a depth of two and three fathoms. The banks were well defined, in many places being a low line of cliffs six feet high, presenting to our view several feet of brown soil, resting on a compact clay. This is the general character of this extensive plain; and from the small size of the trees, chiefly white gums, that are thinly scattered over it, we may infer that it is land of recent formation. Two miles from the end of Long Reach, we pa.s.sed a sandy head, where the tide rises from three to ten feet.

(*Footnote. Figured by Mr. Gould, as Tadorna radjah.)

The river now took a south by west direction, for nearly two miles, a little narrower, but three fathoms deep throughout. Towards the latter part the banks were fringed with mangroves of a small and singularly even growth, resembling a clipped garden shrubbery. Our course again changed to south-east, entering the low range of hills bounding the south-eastern side of Whirlwind Plains. It was long after dark when we reached so far.

We had pa.s.sed the watering boats some distance further down on their way to the ship. Our sudden meeting in the dark on the lonely river, had a singular and romantic effect. Being anxious to join the gig, we pushed on, and at midnight were surprised by a loud call from Captain Wickham, who lay beneath the shadow of a high bank. It was a strange sound, this English hail, to hear echoed in these wild hills, where only the shrill cry of the savage had been borne on the blast before!

THUNDERSTORM.

I was sorry to find, that the tide did not at present rise sufficient to admit the large boats into the fresh water, so that getting a load would have been a very long operation, had it not been for a tremendous fall of rain that followed a thunderstorm, deluging every pool, and at once affording the means of filling the casks. This storm began at South-East and drew round by east to North-West, from which quarter it blew strong for an hour. The torrents of rain lasted two hours, and cooled the air so rapidly, as in that time to reduce the thermometer from 92 to 82 degrees.

This change was so sudden, that it made those who felt it shiver as if it were the depth of winter, and RUSH INTO THE RIVER WATER TO KEEP THEMSELVES WARM.

November 4.

Both boats proceeded up the river at daylight. We started from the end of Short Reach, trending East-North-East, and about four miles within the range of hills, on the South-East side of the Plains. The first reach led us a mile and a half in a South-East direction, and at the end of it a flat of large boulders extended; across this we dragged the boats easily.

The river now took a turn from East-North-East to North, and at the end of a mile we came to another extensive flat, quite dry. There was a deep pool below it, with a precipitous hill, 350 feet high, on the eastern side. This we called Steep Head, and its singular dark cliffy face, frowning over the placid waters, gave an air of grandeur to the scenery.

Stretched out on the face of these cliffs, we left the skin of our friend the alligator, to be taken to the ship by the watering boats when they returned.

SHOALS IN THE RIVER.

There was now heavy work before us, with the thermometer at 93 degrees in the shade: we had to drag the boats over the large flat that impeded our progress. The way was made as smooth as possible, and plenty of rollers laid, but an unlucky stone found its way through the thin plank of the gig. Captain Wickham acted as head carpenter in repairing the damage, which occupied so much time that it was dark before the boats were floated in the deep water beyond. We dined on the bank, by the light of a lantern hung on a tree. The tide at this place only rose two feet.

SCENERY ON ITS BANKS.

November 5.

Taking advantage of the cool of the morning, we moved off with the early dawn. A fine sheet of water lay before us, and everything promised well.

The vegetation looked stronger and richer. Above the growth of acacias and drooping gums, that leant over the banks kissing their reflection in the limpid waters, rose on each side high broken ranges. Their heights had round summits, just beneath which, in some, could be traced a low line of cliffs, so singularly characteristic of Sea Range. The very marked dip in the strata did not extend beyond the latter, and here I could not detect any. Flights of large vampires, whistling ducks, many-coloured parakeets, and varieties of small birds, made the river quite alive, and their continued cry of alarm gave vivacity to the scene, and disturbed the stillness that had reigned there for years. Every living thing is terrified at the sight of man. This reach of the Victoria enabled Mr. Bynoe to add two new birds to his collection; one, a species of pigeon, but resembling a small quail in its habits and size; the cerae of the nose, the beak and the feet, were a pigeon's, but the flight and the manner of running along the ground, where it kept, were those of a quail. It was found in small families of eight or a dozen, very wild and scarce, and was only seen in this part of the river. The only one we were able to get, had a very long pointed crest. The colour was a light red, with a white chin and a black band across the throat; the tips of the wings were slightly bronzed. It is figured in Mr. Gould's work, from this specimen, as Geophaps plumifera.

SINGULAR BIRD.

The other bird was of a species, that at first sight appeared to be a teal. It went in small flocks, and as it got on the wing made a long shrill plaintive kind of note. The deep glossy rifle-green colour of their back, and the transparent streak of white across the wing, gave them a most beautiful appearance, as the sun's rays lit up their rich plumage in their circuitous flight round the boat. Their number did not exceed twenty, and they too were only seen on this part of the river.

They were also very wary, which is singular in the inhabitants of a wilderness, almost totally unfrequented by man. We only got one specimen, by which we found that it had the head and bill of a goose. It was indeed quite a goose in miniature. Although we never before or afterwards met with this bird, it was seen at Port Essington, though of inferior plumage, some time in 1840, and a specimen was obtained, from which Mr.

Gould has named it Nettapus pulch.e.l.las. The whistling duck of the Adelaide River, was also only seen on this part of the Victoria.

After proceeding north-east one mile and a half, and east two miles, we came to a pretty little islet covered with palms and acacias, and rich long gra.s.s. Numbers of large white waterlilies grew on its banks. The river was now only an eighth of a mile wide, and two fathoms deep. This still promised well. Scarcely, however, had we indulged in the hope that the Victoria might yet convey the boats many miles into the interior, when a shoal appeared.

PROGRESS OF THE BOATS ARRESTED.

Over this we got tolerably well, but at the end of two miles in an East-South-East direction from Palm Island, all hopes were at an end of proceeding farther in the boats, as for a great extent the river was impa.s.sable for them. We found there was a large sheet of water beyond, and then another dry patch. It would therefore have been useless labour to attempt dragging the boats over any more of the dry parts. Two conical-shaped hills, so much alike that we called them the Brothers, bore North by West 1/2 West one mile.

The thermometer was 101 degrees at noon in the shade. I shot some very large dark-coloured ducks in the afternoon. Kangaroos were numerous. The water was fresh soon after pa.s.sing Palm Island.

That we were thus finally deterred from proceeding farther with the boats, was a source of deep mortification. Since the great flat we had experienced so much difficulty in getting over yesterday, all had gone well. Each turn in the river appeared more beautiful, and brought something new to increase our interest; and we fondly imagined that great discoveries were in store for us. But the fates had decreed otherwise, and we were compelled to pause, after having ascended in the boats from the ship above 75 miles. We named this reach, in consequence, Reach Hopeless.

November 6.

It being evidently impracticable to proceed higher up in the boats; a small party of us landed at daylight, in order to ascend a neighbouring height, and thence to trace as far as possible the upward course of the river, preparatory to a pedestrian excursion along its banks. Before sunrise we reached the summit of a narrow ridge, trending East-South-East 1/2 a mile east, from where the boats were lying: in this singular ridge I again noticed the dip to the south-east: it was composed of a variety of rocks, jasper, a greyish kind of flinty indifferent limestone, and greywacke.

SINGULAR APPEARANCE OF THE RIVER.