Originally hopes were entertained that a very large population of Malays, and even Chinese would speedily collect at Port Essington: but from some defect in the colonial regulations their immigration was for a time checked. At length, however, a remedy has been applied, and facility given for the introduction of settlers from the Indian Archipelago and the Celestial Empire.

The great difficulty that this small settlement has had to contend with from the beginning, is the climate; which, though not absolutely pernicious in itself, is unsuited to European const.i.tutions. The settlers have been attacked at various times by fever, and have experienced a large comparative mortality; but hopes are entertained that by proper regulations, especially if temperate habits could be introduced, this may be avoided.

The capabilities of the soil, though it has by some been p.r.o.nounced totally unfit for agricultural purposes, are still supposed by others to be great, and it is believed that if colonists, capable of working in the climate, could be induced to repair to Port Essington, rice, cotton, indigo, etc. might be raised, of the finest quality, and in great abundance.

The livestock at the settlements, consisted, by the last accounts, of an English cow and a bull, two Indian heifers and two cows, above fifty goats, six working oxen, thirty buffaloes, six pigs, a few fowls, five ponies, and thirty half-greyhounds for catching kangaroos. Some of these were private, others public property. Several cattle have been lost, on hearing which, a plan that had before suggested itself, recurred vividly to my mind. I once thought the herds of buffalo and other animals might be prevented from straying, by a fence run across the Peninsula, between Mount Norris Bay, and the north-east corner of Van Diemen's Gulf. The width is only three miles, and the rude Micmac Indians of Newfoundland, have carried fences for a similar purpose many times that extent. The necessity of so doing became more apparent each time I visited the place, especially when I heard of herds of buffaloes being seen upon the main.

Another advantage which occurred to me in connection with this subject, was, that it would have rendered an out-station necessary, and have thus led to a further communication with the natives, which would ultimately tend to increase our knowledge of them and the interior; this after our subsequent discovery of Adelaide river became of still greater moment.

The existence of the out-station would also form a change for the settlers, and journeys thither would remove the dreary inactivity of a new settlement at certain periods. The absence of this fence may account for Captain Grey's party having seen signs of buffalo on the mainland; he discovered the tracks of a cloven-footed animal, which one of his men who had been much in South Africa, at once recognised as the spur of a buffalo. But one advantage can arise from the want of this precaution.

Some of the finest lands in the neighbourhood of Sydney, now called Cow Pastures, were discovered, by finding them to be the constant haunt of wild cattle; a similar accident might prove equally advantageous in the neighbourhood of Port Essington.

To return, however, to the period of the establishment of the colony: it was of course deemed desirable to take an early opportunity of exploring Cobourg Peninsula, on which Victoria is situated; and accordingly on May 1st, Lieutenant P.B. Stewart, with several well-armed companions, started on an exploring expedition. They carried water and a week's provisions on two ponies, but did not enc.u.mber themselves with a tent; sheltering themselves at night from the dew in little huts made of branches. On the second day they crossed several running streams, with extensive gra.s.sy patches, and came to a halt during the sultry part of the day on the banks of a river or chain of pools. Here grew many fine cedar-trees, of a light colour and close-grained, while thick woods of the mangrove appeared on all sides: these much impeded their advance, and prevented them from making any great progress. However, they crossed to the eastern side of the Peninsula, where they found a rich and beautiful country, in some parts reminding them of the rich South American forest, rather than the dreary sameness of an Australian wood. Numerous tracks of the buffalo seemed to testify to the excellence of the pasture. Several evidences, also, of the presence of natives were from time to time discovered, and at length a small party met them and exhibited a very friendly spirit.

They acted as guides to the explorers, showing them where water could be found, giving every information in their power, and supplying them with crabs; but of course they did not fail to ask for bread, of which as much as could be spared was given them. On May 8th, they conducted Lieutenant Stewart's party back to Middle Head, and he expresses great surprise at the precision with which they found their way in the bush without having any apparent means to guide them. I have before alluded to this instinctive power of the aborigines of Australia.

Lieutenant Stewart gives as the general result of his observations, extending over about seventy or eighty miles, that there is abundance of fresh water on the Peninsula; that the South side is by far the finest and best watered country; that the trees are there free from the white ant; and that in a large tract of country, the cabbage-palm abounds. He also observes, that as much of the south coast as he saw, has a coral reef extending about a mile from the beach; and that the rise and fall of the tide is much greater than at Port Essington.

The natives were found by the settlers, as we have already stated, very friendly, and their a.s.sistance proved valuable: they brought in the head of the palm-cabbage, which makes an excellent vegetable, though to procure it, the tree is cut down and destroyed: they also supplied the party with wild honey. One of the Raffles Bay tribe instantly made himself known on the arrival of the Expedition in the Bay; he was called by the name of Alligator, on account of his huge teeth, though his proper appellation was Marambari.

From Lieutenant Vallach* of H.M.S. Britomart, I received much valuable information respecting the natives, whom I find to be divided in three distinct cla.s.ses, which do not intermarry. The first is known as Maudrojilly, the second as Mamburgy, the third as Mandrouilly. They are very particular about the distinction of cla.s.ses, but we could never discover which was the superior and which the inferior cla.s.s, though it is supposed by most of those who have inquired into the subject, that the Madrojilly, or first cla.s.s, head the others in war, and govern the affairs of the tribe.

(*Footnote. Lieutenant Vallach died at Moulmain in 1841.)

These aborigines were certainly a fine race, differing in some matters from the other natives of Australia; their hair was neither curly nor straight, but crisp. The custom of extracting a front tooth prevails among them, while the nasal cartilage here as elsewhere was perforated. I noticed in particular that they did not make use of the boomerang, or kiley, but of the throwing stick or womera, of a larger kind, however, than any I have observed elsewhere; the head of their spears was made of stone. They have a smaller kind, chiefly used to kill birds and other animals at a considerable distance. They have also large heavy clubs, while the natives on the South coast carry only the short throwing stick.* They go wholly naked, except when entering the settlements, on which occasions they wear a few leaves. Their canoes were chiefly obtained from the Malays.

(*Footnote. We refer our readers to Mr. Eyre's work, where these and other weapons are figured.)

I here saw the only musical instrument I ever remarked among the natives of Australia. It is a piece of bamboo thinned from the inside, through which they blow with their noses. It is from two to three feet long, is called ebroo, and produces a kind of droning noise. It is generally made use of at corrobories or dances, some of which express feats of hunting and war, while others are very indecent, and reminded us of similar exhibitions in the East. It was generally remarked that the old clothes given to these savages disappeared in a most mysterious manner. They were understood to be sold to the natives inhabiting the loftier parts of the interior, but of this I entertain very considerable doubt. Sand, in which the Australian continent abounds, is like everything else proceeding from the hand of the Creator, not without its uses. On cold nights the natives make up for their total want of covering, by burying themselves in it, and nothing can be more irresistibly comic than to see these black lumps sticking out of the earth, like so many enchanted unfortunates in an eastern romance. It moreover has other uses, forming a subst.i.tute for soap;* and when cooking turtle it is mixed with earth and sprinkled over the meat, as we should pepper.

(*Footnote. Their general habits are cleanly.)

One discovery which was made through the medium of the natives, was that the large tumuli noticed by Captain King and others, and supposed to be raised by the inhabitants, are the works of a bird; some of them are thirty feet long and about five feet high; they are always built near thick bushes in which they can take shelter, at the least alarm. The edifice is erected with the feet, which are remarkable both for size and strength, and a peculiar power of grasping; they are yellow while the body is brown. Nothing can be more curious than to see them hopping towards these piles on one foot, the other being filled with materials for building. Though much smaller in shape, in manner they much resemble moor-fowl. The use made of the mound is to contain eggs, which are deposited in layers, and are then hatched by the heat generated in part from decomposition. The instant that the sh.e.l.l bursts, the young bird comes forth strong and large, and runs without the slightest care being taken of it by the parent. Of the number of eggs laid by each bird, seldom more than two are hatched. It is singular that these mounds are found away from the earth and sh.e.l.ls of which they are composed. It seems difficult to credit that a bird so small could raise a structure so large. The largest we ever saw was about eight feet high, on one of the Possession Islands in Endeavour Strait.

The name given to the bird by Mr. Gould is Megapodius tumulus, and it will be unnecessary to enter upon any further details concerning it, as he has described it most interestingly in his work on the birds of Australia.

Great numbers of kangaroos were also found here, which at the period of our arrival the settlers were just getting into the way of killing. There are three varieties, of which the largest weighs about 160 pounds. I must further allude to a most beautiful little opossum which inhabits these parts. It is about half the size of a full-grown rat, and designated as Belideus ariel. Its colour and fur greatly resemble the chinchilla, and I have little doubt that the skin is valuable and might be made an article of trade. This animal has a membrane between the fore and hind paws, which aids it to some extent when leaping from bough to bough. It is a great enemy to the wild bee, devouring them and their nests; the bees the natives discover by tapping the tree and listening for a buzzing from within. Those we saw, amounting to nearly a hundred, were about the size of a fly, of a dusky black colour, and strange to say, were hovering round an empty tar-barrel. They have been unsuccessfully tried in hives at Sydney.

Alligators abound, and one of the marines had a very narrow escape from them. It appears that one of these monsters who had come out of the water in the night, in search of food, found him sleeping in his hammock, which he had very injudiciously hung up near the water. The alligator made a snap at his prize; but startled at this frightful interruption of his slumbers, the man dexterously extricated himself out of his blanket, which the unwieldy brute, doubtless enraged at his disappointment, carried off in triumph. For some time this story was not believed, but when afterwards the huge reptile, on a similar excursion, was shot, a portion of the blanket was found in his stomach with the paw of a favourite spaniel, taken when swimming off the pier head.

Extensive hauls of fish were made on Point Record, amongst which one species, there called salmon, was most excellent eating.

It is unnecessary for a transient visitor to enlarge upon the birds of Port Essington, as in Mr. Gould's work we have the result of the labours of an individual who spent months collecting in the neighbourhood.

The spot selected for our observations was Government House, where nearly a hundred observations with the sun and stars were made for lat.i.tude, the mean result being 11 degrees 22 minutes 21 seconds South, which strange to say, was nearly 15 seconds greater than Captain Stanley and Mr. Tyers'

determination: this difference to me was quite unaccountable, as the instruments used in the Beagle were before and subsequently, satisfactorily tested at well determined places. The longitude being affected by the doubtful meridian distance between Sydney and Port Stephens, we can only give an approximate result; and therefore for the sake of the longitudes of those places referred to the meridian of Port Essington, we consider it 132 degrees 12 minutes East of Greenwich.

From the quant.i.ty of iron in the rocks at Victoria, it was impossible to get any satisfactory observation for the variation of the compa.s.s. Those obtained varied from 3/4 to 2 1/2 degrees east.

We found that Mr. Tyers had made about seven months' observations on the tides, which gave a very irregular rise and fall, varying from two to thirteen feet. The time of high-water being half past three, at the full and change. Oxide of iron is found in some places in large quant.i.ties, and is used by the natives to adorn themselves when dancing. This it is which gives to the coast the peculiar red hue noticed between Cape Croker and Port Essington. Many of the cliffs were composed of a light-coloured marl; but the formation is chiefly old arenaceous rocks. Two of the highest and most remarkable hills on the Peninsula, known as Mounts Bedwell and Rose, have singular flat tops, bearing some resemblance to the curious appearance of Cape Bedford. I am inclined to believe this formation to be floetz trappe. Their elevation is about four hundred feet, being twice the general height of the Peninsula.

RAFFLES BAY.

The temperature during our stay averaged 82 degrees while land and sea breezes prevailed. We should not omit to mention, that Lieutenant Stewart, when visiting Raffles Bay in order to invite the French officers as above alluded to, found that a deep inlet intervening, formed a good harbour, to which he gave the name of Port Bremer. Of the old settlement nothing remained, save the graves of those whose labours had tended to render this part of Australia another outlet for the surplus population of the mother country, extending at the same time the blessings of civilization. The rapid growth of rank vegetation had swept all else away, and there in solemn solitude, upon that still and silent sh.o.r.e, mouldered the bones of the original colonists of Raffles Bay, whose praiseworthy efforts were rendered futile, by the unfavourable reports forwarded to Government; reports we cannot think entirely free from prejudice, when we know from Captain Law's account, that one of the Commandants declared that he felt disposed to sell out of the army in preference to going there.* One thus prepared to dislike the place, could scarcely be expected to take an interest in the country, or endeavour fully to develop its resources.

(*Footnote. See Wilson's Voyage round the World page 153.)

We cannot avoid expressing our regret at the abandonment of the settlement in Raffles Bay, after it had gone on so far successfully under Captain Barker's excellent management. In mentioning his kindness to the natives, to whose goodwill we must always owe much, we have already given one of the causes which a.s.sisted in fostering the undertaking. Nothing could be more unwise than the hostility shown to the natives by the first settlers, as from them we must always calculate on learning much that is useful and valuable, with regard to the productions of the country; a knowledge which would otherwise consume much time to acquire. This was not the only matter, however, in which he showed his superior good sense and judgment. His enticing the people of Maca.s.sar to come and locate there, was another instance of his foresight, which would have led in time to very favourable results. He was soon, however, compelled to retract his invitation, writing from Coepang to the Dutch Governor of Maca.s.sar, in order to stop the immigration, which otherwise would have been considerable. With all these several elements of success, we should doubtless, but for the abandonment, have now had a flourishing settlement in Northern Australia. The causes which led to its breaking up, are thus succinctly given by Dr. Wilson. "The alleged causes were: first, the unhealthiness of the climate; secondly, the hostility of the natives; and thirdly, the non-visitation of the Malays."

These he clearly proved, as we have subsequently done, to be without much foundation; but we ourselves do not so much deplore the leaving of Raffles Bay, perhaps an ill-chosen site, but rather that the settlement was not removed instead of being given up. When the anxieties and difficulties which universally accompany the formation of a new settlement are reflected on, the regret we have already expressed will be more easily understood. When Port Essington was located, all these had to be suffered over again; whereas had the station at Raffles Bay, been transferred thither at once, it would have been now at a very high pitch of perfection. Besides, however small the spot on which the English flag waves constantly, it will always prove a check on the marauding propensities of the neighbouring islanders, and thus add materially to the general welfare and civilization of such portions of the globe as fall within the influence of the respected locality.*

(*Footnote. In further proof of the prospects of success, which were open to the new settlement under its able Commandant, we give the following extract from Dr. Wilson's journal, when at Coepang, in company with Captain Barker, after their final departure from Raffles Bay. "We were informed by the master of the Mercus, that many Chinese were about to emigrate from Java to Raffles Bay, having recently learned that they would be permitted to do so. The total abandonment of the North coast of New Holland caused much regret to the mercantile people here, as they had antic.i.p.ated great advantages from a commercial intercourse.' Wilson's Narrative page 179.)

LEAVE PORT ESSINGTON.

July 24.

Finding that we could not procure a supply of provisions from the settlement, our stay was necessarily, though reluctantly, of short duration, and on the morning of the 24th, we were accordingly running out of Port Essington. After rounding Vashon Head, we steered to the westward, along the northern side of the Peninsula, and early in the afternoon anch.o.r.ed in Popham Bay, one point of which is formed by the North-West extreme of the Peninsula, a low projection with one tall mangrove growing on the point, and fronted by an extensive coral reef, past which a two-knot tide sweeps into the gulf of Van Diemen. On the eastern side of this projection is a snug boat or small-craft harbour, much frequented by the Malays, who call it Blue-mud Bay. It may be recognized by a little island lying off its mouth.

Our attention having been directed towards the openings on the coast opposite Melville Island, we proceeded towards the first, lying on the south side of Clarence Strait. It was further important to ascertain, if that strait was navigable, and also to examine the south-eastern side of Melville Island.

BIRD ISLAND.

Finding the western sh.o.r.e of Cobourg Peninsula placed too far from Port Essington on the chart, it was determined to commence the survey at Popham Bay, choosing for the observation spot a small bank of sand and dead coral lying in its centre, and bearing East 1/2 South 1/4 of a mile from where we anch.o.r.ed in nine fathoms. We named this Bird Island, from finding it almost covered with terns and gulls. The lat.i.tude of it according to our observations was 11 degrees 15 1/2 minutes South and longitude West of Port Essington 22 1/2 miles, being 4 1/2 less than is given in Captain King's chart, the North-West extreme of the Peninsula being there placed too far from Port Essington, and the North-East point, Cape Croker, too near, it would appear that the discrepancy was chiefly in the position of Port Essington, with respect to the northern extremes of the Peninsula, as Captain King and ourselves only now differ two miles in the distance between Cape Croker and Popham Bay, ours being the greater. The evening was calm as usual, while midnight brought with it a fresh South-East wind. During the night the temperature was as low as 73 degrees.

July 25.

On leaving at daylight we crossed over to examine the western sh.o.r.es of Dundas Strait, formed by the eastern side of Melville Island; Captain King having pa.s.sed it in the night. As we stood close along it into the gulf, we found the soundings very irregular. Six miles North 40 degrees East from Cape Keith, we pa.s.sed over two patches of only three or four fathoms; these we could not see from the general disturbed and discoloured state of the water, it blowing fresh from South-East. We found the nature of this part of Melville Island to be low rocky points, separating sandy bays. One of the few remarkable features on it, is a round hill 320 feet high, five miles North-West from Cape Keith.

CLARENCE STRAIT.

Pa.s.sing the latter, we crossed over to the opposite eastern entrance point of Clarence Strait, Cape Hotham, discovering on our way thither a reef nearly awash, about two miles in extent, bearing South 25 degrees West fifteen miles from Cape Keith, and North 10 degrees East fourteen miles from Cape Hotham. The deepest water we found while crossing was 22 fathoms, five miles north of the latter, the general depth being 13 and 15 fathoms. The wind failing in the afternoon, it was evening when we reached our anchorage in nine fathoms, Cape Hotham bearing South 43 West, two miles and a half, and close to the edge of a large shoal which we subsequently found to extend a mile and a half north, and six miles east from the Cape. Here we found the tides set West by South and East-North-East from half a knot to two knots, the westerly stream beginning nearly three hours after high-water, a peculiarity generally occurring in straits.

July 26.

After one of those soft and lovely evenings so common to this part of Australia, with a gentle breeze and cloudless sky, we were surprised to find that the morning opened dreary and gloomy. There was a very fresh South-South-East wind with heavy ma.s.ses of clouds; the breeze continued until noon, when as usual it subsided. We moved the ship a few miles down the opening in the south side of the strait, and in the afternoon a party went on sh.o.r.e near Cape Hotham. We found the country very poor and sandy, and elevated about fifteen feet above high-water mark. Despite this, the white gum-trees appear to thrive, growing in great abundance, about thirty or forty feet high; there were also others of a different kind, besides a few palms. The rocks were red sand and ironstone blended together. In some places I noticed it had the same glazed and vitrified appearance, as before remarked by me at King's Sound, on the North-West coast.

Mr. Bynoe, who was of the party, added to his collection of birds, a kingfisher, and a specimen of a glossy species about the size and colour of an English blackbird; others were seen and killed, but all common to other parts; the most rare of the latter was the large cream-coloured pigeon I have alluded to, some few pages back.

NATIVE COMPANION.

The white ibis with a black neck, plentiful in King's Sound, and a large bird, a species of crane, were also seen. The latter was of a French grey hue, with the exception of the head, which was black and of the shape of a bittern, commonly known among the colonists by the name of native companion. It is difficult to imagine how this name could have originated, as there is no instance of the natives making a pet of anything, except the wild dog of the country, and of that only, it is probable, from its utility in procuring them food. On visiting this place a few days afterwards, to repeat the observations for the errors of the chronometers, we saw a few natives, but they avoided an interview, disappearing when we landed. They made the same motions with their arms, throwing them open, and bowing as the natives in King's Sound did. The few huts I fell in with, reminded me of one I had seen near the North-West part of King's Sound, a representation of which will be found in the portion of the work descriptive of that locality.

Those on Cape Hotham, to enter more into particulars, did not exceed five feet in height, nor were they so substantially built; they were, however, well thatched with the same kind of coa.r.s.e gra.s.s. The entrances were carefully closed, except in one instance, when the aperture was so small that it was with difficulty I could crawl in; when I had entered there was nothing to gratify my curiosity.

NATIVE CLOTHING.

Hanging on trees round these habitations, were specimens of an article of clothing, never before seen among the Aborigines of Australia, for which reason I have been induced to give the woodcut of one.* It is a kind of covering for the shoulders, a species of cape, made from coa.r.s.e gra.s.s.

(*Footnote. I have since heard from Mr. Earl, that the women in the South-East part of Van Diemen's Gulf, occasionally wear a covering round their waist, somewhat similar to the representation given.)

Baskets were also left hanging on the trees, bespeaking the honesty of the inhabitants of this part of the country.