TIME REQUIRED: 5 minutes active; 7 to 9 hours pa.s.sive 5 minutes active; 7 to 9 hours pa.s.sive YIELD: 4 to 6 servings 4 to 6 servings 6 cups water1 cup steel-cut oats cup hominy, soaked for at least 8 hours and then chopped coa.r.s.ely cup amaranthPoached egg for servingCheddar cheese for servingSimple Tomato Salsa for serving for serving Combine the water, oats, hominy, and amaranth in a Crock-Pot and cook overnight (or for 7 to 9 hours) on low. Serve with a poached egg, Cheddar cheese, and Salsa.

Mix-and-Match Guide to Porridge Add-ins Your homemade porridge is endlessly customizable. For a traditional sweetened breakfast porridge, choose desired add-ons from each category below and enjoy. A savory porridge might include fresh cheese, yogurt, sausage, eggs, or anything else you can think of.

SWEETENERS.

* Honey* Maple syrup* Plum-Verbena Jam Plum-Verbena Jam or other homemade or store-bought jam or other homemade or store-bought jam* Brown sugar* Agave syrup LIQUIDS AND DAIRY ADDITIONS.

* Yogurt Yogurt* Soy milk* Almond Milk Almond Milk* Cow or goat milk* Coconut milk* Fresh Whole-Milk Soft Cheese Fresh Whole-Milk Soft Cheese* Creme Fraiche Creme FraicheCRUNCHY ADDITIONS* Granola Your Way Granola Your Way* Toasted nuts or seeds STIR-INS.

* Roasted Peanut b.u.t.ter Roasted Peanut b.u.t.ter or or Raw Almond b.u.t.ter Raw Almond b.u.t.ter* Fresh fruit* Dried fruit* Coconut flakes

Chapter Five.

Pickles and Ferments Simple Wild SauerkrautSarma: Serbian Stuffed Cabbage Rolls with SauerkrautSpicy KimchiSpicy Soft Tofu Soup with KimchiLacto-Fermented Baby BeetsWild Salvadoran CurtidoBread and b.u.t.ter PicklesItalian Table PicklesPickled Kohlrabi and Turnips with CardamomSimple DalSpicy Pickled Green BeansPotato Salad with Pickled Green Beans and Hard-Cooked EggsGarlicky Cuc.u.mber Pickle RelishBlack-Eyed Peas with Stewed Okra and Tomatoes with Garlicky Cuc.u.mber Pickle Relish ALMOST EVERY HUMAN CULTURE incorporates a variety of pickled or fermented vegetables into meals. Traditionally used as a way to preserve foods, extend shelf life, and add flavor, pickled and live-culture foods can add interest, texture, and excitement to the simplest meals. Examples of common fermented foods include cheese, kimchi, salami, sourdough bread, and wine. Wild fermented foods are made by adding salt to vegetables to inhibit spoilage while the vegetables are left out at room temperature to allow the wild yeasts and bacteria in the environment to colonize the food. These wild organisms multiply rapidly as they work to preserve the foods. They also contain beneficial organisms that are thought to improve digestion and general well-being, and they taste great. Pickles are preserved through the use of vinegar and salt and can be made with a wide variety of vegetables. Different kinds of pickles abound throughout the world, including common pickled cuc.u.mbers, j.a.panese pickled radish, and Indian mango pickle.

This chapter includes a variety of pickles and wild fermented vegetables along with suggestions for using them in or alongside other recipes in the chapter. Small-batch pickling and fermenting is the focus, but readers who wish to preserve larger quant.i.ties for shelf-stable storage can adapt the recipes by using the processing chart in any good canning book (see Sources Sources).

Simple Wild Sauerkraut Sauerkraut is often thought of as a German dish, but the first sauerkraut was probably created in China. Before refrigeration, it was a great way to preserve fresh vegetables for traveling workers and armies. The technique is easy and lends itself to a variety of different vegetables. Once you've made this a few times, you'll want to experiment with different vegetables and embellishments. On the 'kraut continuum, on one end, there's just cabbage and salt. On the other end, you'll see many other types of vegetables (and sometimes fruits), including whole cabbages, turnips, or beets (I've even seen people ferment mashed potatoes). In the middle, you have something like this: mostly cabbage, a few different vegetables to add interest, and some whole spices or aromatics. I like to play with garlic, ginger, or other types of whole spices. In the winter, when the kale and daikon radish are at their best, I will add them instead of carrots and turnips. Think of this as a nice basic 'kraut to help you build skills and confidence.

TIME REQUIRED: 15 minutes active; 5 to 10 days pa.s.sive 15 minutes active; 5 to 10 days pa.s.sive YIELD: 1 quart 1 quart 1 medium head green cabbage (about 1 pounds), quartered, cored, and sliced as thinly as possible2 to 3 carrots, grated on the large holes of a box grater3 to 4 red turnips, grated on the large holes of a box grater1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon mustard seeds or fennel seeds, lightly crushed Put all the vegetables in a large bowl along with the salt and mustard seeds. With clean hands, toss and squeeze the vegetables until they start to soften and release their liquid (about 5 minutes). Pack them tightly into a 1-quart, wide-mouthed, gla.s.s mason jar, pushing down on them with a wooden spoon or your fingertips with as much force as you can until the level of liquid rises above the vegetables. Put a smaller jar inside the gla.s.s jar and push down on it to keep the vegetables submerged. Cover with a clean towel and secure with a rubber band. This is to allow the 'kraut to breathe while keeping bugs out.

Leave out at room temperature for about 5 days. Check once daily to be sure the vegetables stay submerged, pushing down on them if needed. If you see a foamy sc.u.m, simply skim it off. Taste daily, starting on the third day. The sauerkraut is ready when it tastes good to you. This could be anywhere from 3 to 10 days. When it's to your liking, fasten the lid and transfer it to the refrigerator. Sauerkraut will last for months in the refrigerator. It doesn't really go bad, but older 'kraut can become unpalatably soft, almost mushy. Some people like to cook it when it gets to that point-in a bean soup or with sausages and potatoes.

Sarma: Serbian Stuffed Cabbage Rolls with Sauerkraut This is pretty much the version my mother made when I was growing up, but there was no recipe, so my sister and I re-created this one from our flavor memories. Even though my mother didn't, I've added Simple Wild Sauerkraut because I happen to love it, and I know many people bake their stuffed cabbage with sauerkraut. For a real Balkan baccha.n.a.l, kick off dinner with an appetizer of Ajvar Ajvar and and Easy Yogurt Cheese Easy Yogurt Cheese served with served with Whole-Wheat Sesame Crackers Whole-Wheat Sesame Crackers or crostini. This recipe nicely ill.u.s.trates how, with very little money, you can feed a lot of people gorgeous, filling, nutritious food or crostini. This recipe nicely ill.u.s.trates how, with very little money, you can feed a lot of people gorgeous, filling, nutritious food.

TIME REQUIRED: 45 minutes active; about 2 hours pa.s.sive (excluding sauerkraut and ketchup preparation) 45 minutes active; about 2 hours pa.s.sive (excluding sauerkraut and ketchup preparation) YIELD: 6 to 8 servings 6 to 8 servings CABBAGE ROLLS1 large head green cabbage (2 to 2 pounds)1 pounds ground beef (local pasture-raised if possible) cup uncooked, long-grain white rice small yellow onion, very finely chopped1 large egg, beaten1 teaspoons salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepperSAUCE2 tablespoons olive oil small yellow onion, diced (about cup)One 28-ounce can crushed tomatoesSalt3 to 6 tablespoons Real Ketchup Real Ketchup or store-bought ketchup or store-bought ketchup3 cups Simple Wild Sauerkraut Simple Wild Sauerkraut To make the rolls: Bring about 3 inches of salted water to a boil in a large pot. Core the cabbage, leaving it whole, and put it in the pot, covered. Cook until the leaves are pliable, but still retain their structure, about 12 minutes, turning once. Remove and drain until cool enough to handle. Reserve the cabbage water.

In a large bowl, mix together the beef, rice, onion, egg, salt, and pepper just until blended.

To make the sauce: In a medium saucepan, warm the oil. Add the onion and saute until soft. Add the tomatoes and a pinch of salt, stir, and bring to a simmer. Simmer while you stuff the rolls, until the sauce thickens and the flavors are blended, about 15 minutes. Add the ketchup, gradually, to taste.

Stuff the rolls. Carefully peel the large leaves from the poached cabbage. Using a sharp paring knife, gently trim some of the thick vein from the back of the larger leaves. This will make them easier to roll. Lay the leaves out on a flat surface. Spoon about 3 tablespoons of the beef mixture into each leaf, depending on the size of the cabbage leaves. Roll up each leaf lengthwise and tuck the ends in with your fingers to make little packets. If the leaves won't hold together, use a toothpick to secure them at the seam. You should have about 15 rolls.

Select a Dutch oven large enough to contain all the rolls and the sauerkraut. Spread the sauerkraut out on the bottom of the Dutch oven, covering it. Lay the rolls on top of the sauerkraut. You can make multiple layers.

Pour about 2 cups of the cabbage water into the tomato sauce and stir. If you don't have enough cabbage water, make up the difference with tap water. Pour the sauce over the rolls and bring the whole pot to a simmer over medium-high heat.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

Lower the heat under the Dutch oven to medium-low and simmer, partially covered, until the sauce begins to cling to the cabbage leaves, about 20 minutes. Cover completely, transfer the pot to the oven, and cook until the sauce thickens, the cabbage is soft, and the rolls are very hot inside, 1 hours. Serve hot with sauce spooned over. This one-dish meal has all the components you need, but you may want to serve it with a salad or a cooked vegetable and bread to scoop up the sauce.

NOTE: Some traditional cabbage-roll recipes used cabbage leaves from whole heads of cabbage fermented in giant crocks and kept through the winter. I'm sure the step of boiling the cabbage was developed as a short-cut method of softening the leaves, as if they'd been fermented. But there is no subst.i.tute for the taste. If I ever get one of those big fermenting crocks, I plan to try it sometime Some traditional cabbage-roll recipes used cabbage leaves from whole heads of cabbage fermented in giant crocks and kept through the winter. I'm sure the step of boiling the cabbage was developed as a short-cut method of softening the leaves, as if they'd been fermented. But there is no subst.i.tute for the taste. If I ever get one of those big fermenting crocks, I plan to try it sometime.

TIP: If using store-bought ketchup, be careful not to add too much as it's sweeter than Real Ketchup If using store-bought ketchup, be careful not to add too much as it's sweeter than Real Ketchup.

Spicy Kimchi [image]

I adapted this recipe from one I learned in a workshop at the Asian Culinary Forum in San Francisco with Huynjoo Albrecht, of CookingKorean.com. If you've only had commercial kimchi, which is sometimes overly salty and very spicy while lacking dimension, you'll be surprised at the complexity of this version. Lightly fermented and spicy, to be sure, the nuances of the individual components come through in layers. If you're worried about making it too spicy, start with less red pepper the first time you make it and see how you like it. It's wonderful with Spicy Soft Tofu Soup Spicy Soft Tofu Soup, served alongside brown rice and fish, or tossed into a seasonal grain salad seasonal grain salad.

If you have access to a Korean market, buy the medium ground Korean red pepper powder for kimchi, which usually comes in a one-pound plastic bag. Make sure that it doesn't have salt or other additives. Or see Sources Sources. You can also experiment with a milder cayenne pepper; a mild ground red chile, such as New Mexico; or Aleppo pepper, a mild red pepper used in Middle Eastern cooking that has a nice fruity flavor and a similar heat level to Korean pepper. This recipe is written for kosher salt. If you're using a finer-grained sea salt, you will need to use about 25 percent less.

TIME REQUIRED: 45 minutes active; 9 hours plus 3 days pa.s.sive 45 minutes active; 9 hours plus 3 days pa.s.sive YIELD: 1 quart 1 quart 2 cups plus 1 tablespoon kosher salt1 head Napa cabbage, untrimmed (about 2 pounds) pound daikon radish, peeled and grated on the large holes of a box grater2 green onions, finely chopped (white and green parts) cup mild ground Korean red pepper powder (see head note)2 garlic cloves, finely choppedOne 1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped1 tablespoon soy sauce1 tablespoon sugar1 teaspoons sesame oil1 teaspoon toasted white sesame seeds Dissolve 1 cups of the salt in 2 quarts of water. Test the proper amount of salt by gently placing an egg in the water. If it floats, the salt solution is perfect. If it sinks, add a little more salt.

Peel just the outer leaves from the cabbage and discard or compost them. Then, leaving it untrimmed, quarter it lengthwise through the root end, so the root holds each quarter together. Sprinkle 1 cups more salt between the cabbage leaves. Starting from the outer layer, lift each leaf and sprinkle salt on it, dividing the salt evenly, so that each layer of cabbage is salted. Put the cabbage in the salted water and place a weighted plate on top to keep it fully submerged.

Toss the grated radish in the remaining 1 tablespoon salt and let it drain in a colander while the cabbage soaks in its water bath.

The cabbage should soak until the heavy white parts of the cabbage closest to the root end are pliable but not mushy. Try bending one or two leaves. If they break, the cabbage hasn't soaked long enough. It should take 3 or 4 hours, depending on the room's temperature. In the end, the cabbage should offer a little resistance but not break.

Remove the cabbage from the salted water and rinse it thoroughly under running water several times (this is important or your kimchi will be too salty). Squeeze lightly and place the cabbage quarters, root-side up, in a colander to drain. Drain for 1 hour. Rinse the radish, squeeze out the excess moisture, and continue to drain it.

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, combine the onions, red pepper powder, garlic, ginger, soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil, and sesame seeds.

Squeeze the drained cabbage to remove as much water as possible. Slice the cabbage crosswise into pieces 1 to 1 inches wide. Add them to the bowl with the seasonings. Add the drained daikon and toss to coat thoroughly.

Transfer the kimchi and its juices to a 1-quart, wide-mouth mason jar and push it down with a wooden spoon. Fasten the lid and let it sit undisturbed at room temperature for 4 to 5 hours, depending on the warmth of the room. Refrigerate for 2 to 3 days to let the flavors develop before eating. It should taste balanced, but spicy and lightly fermented. It keeps, refrigerated, for several months.

Spicy Soft Tofu Soup with Kimchi [image]

Inspired by the soft tofu soups served in Korean restaurants, but using a quick and flavorful j.a.panese broth, this soup is an easy way to incorporate your homemade Spicy Kimchi into a meal. This dish is healthful, light, and low in calories. It's perfect for those feeling a little under the weather or simply trying to eat lightly. The dashi broth that you'll make in this recipe is the mother broth of j.a.panese cooking and has multiple uses in a resourceful kitchen. Use it to simmer vegetables or seafood for a light dinner; add miso, tofu, and green onions to make miso soup; or simmer noodles and fish together with greens for a quick dinner. See Sources Sources for information on locating any hard-to-find ingredients for information on locating any hard-to-find ingredients.

TIME REQUIRED: 15 minutes active; 25 minutes pa.s.sive (excluding kimchi preparation) 15 minutes active; 25 minutes pa.s.sive (excluding kimchi preparation) YIELD: 4 servings 4 servings Two 5-by-3-inch pieces kombu1 cup bonito flakes1 large shallot, thinly sliced2 garlic cloves, finely chopped1 tablespoon Korean red pepper powder or about teaspoon cayenne pepper (depending on its heat level and your taste)Salt1 turnip, peeled, sliced, and julienned1 carrot, peeled, sliced, and julienned2 ounces fresh mushrooms, such as shiitake or cremini, sliced ounce dried mushrooms, such as shiitake or wood ear, rehydrated and sliced thinly ounce wakame seaweedOne 14-ounce package organic soft tofu, cut into 1-inch piecesThinly sliced green onions (green and white parts) for garnishToasted sesame oil for drizzlingSpicy Kimchi for garnish for garnish In a large saucepan over medium heat, bring 2 quarts of water and the kombu to a boil. Turn off the heat and add the bonito flakes. Don't stir. Let the broth sit, undisturbed, until the bonito flakes sink to the bottom, about 5 minutes. Strain the broth into a bowl through a very fine strainer, or through a regular strainer lined with a coffee filter.

Rinse the saucepan and return the broth to it. Bring the broth to a boil and add the shallot, garlic, red pepper powder, and a little salt and simmer for 10 minutes. Taste and correct the salt. Add the turnip, carrot, mushrooms, and seaweed and simmer until the vegetables are crisp-tender, about 10 minutes. Add the tofu and simmer for another few minutes, to warm it through.

Ladle the soup into deep bowls and garnish each serving with green onions, a drizzle of sesame oil, and kimchi.

Lacto-Fermented Baby Beets The process used here is similar to the one used for Simple Wild Sauerkraut Simple Wild Sauerkraut, Wild Salvadoran Curtido Wild Salvadoran Curtido, and Spicy Kimchi Spicy Kimchi. Rather than vinegar, all of these vegetables are preserved with the help of salt, while the lactic acid bacteria that are naturally present starts the work of fermenting the vegetables. In the case of these beets, I've used whey obtained from draining yogurt to introduce the lactic acid directly. Many people use this method in place of brining with salt, but I like salt, so I use both. The lactic acid feeds on the sugar in the beets, introducing a gentle sourness. These beets will remain quite crisp after fermentation. Don't discard the brine after finishing your beets. It's a wonderful tonic drink that some people swear by as a liver cleanser. It's very similar to beet kva.s.s, which is made from fermented beets. You can also use it to make vinaigrette.

TIME REQUIRED: 10 to 15 minutes active; 8 to 10 days pa.s.sive 10 to 15 minutes active; 8 to 10 days pa.s.sive YIELD: 1 quart 1 quart 1 pounds baby beets (about 25 to 30)[image] teaspoon mustard seeds teaspoon mustard seeds2 cups non-chlorinated water (see Note) cup whey from drained chese whey from drained chese1 tablespoon kosher salt Scrub the beets and peel them if you wish (sometimes I just cut off the rough parts with a paring knife). Put them in a clean, 1-quart mason jar with the mustard seeds. Combine the water and whey in a small bowl. Add the salt and stir to dissolve.

Pour the water and whey over the beets to submerge. Cover the jar with a tea towel and fasten with a rubber band. Leave it out at room temperature for about 10 days, depending on the warmth of the weather. Start testing after 6 days by tasting a slice of one of the beets. When they are done, they will remain crisp all the way through but a slight sourness will overtake the beet's natural earthiness and they will no longer taste raw. Seal the jar and refrigerate them in their brine at this point. They will last for several months.

NOTE: Some munic.i.p.alities chlorinate the water. If this is true of your area, use bottled water, as chlorine can inhibit the fermentation process Some munic.i.p.alities chlorinate the water. If this is true of your area, use bottled water, as chlorine can inhibit the fermentation process.

Wild Salvadoran Curtido If you've ever eaten a pupusa pupusa in a Salvadoran restaurant, you've probably had the tangy cabbage salad called in a Salvadoran restaurant, you've probably had the tangy cabbage salad called curtido curtido that is usually served alongside them. Inhabiting the same culinary niche as that is usually served alongside them. Inhabiting the same culinary niche as Spicy Kimchi Spicy Kimchi or or Simple Wild Sauerkraut Simple Wild Sauerkraut, curtido is the perfect companion to any rich, heavy, or meaty dish. In addition to is the perfect companion to any rich, heavy, or meaty dish. In addition to pupusas, pupusas, I've enjoyed it on both fish and meat tacos, with quesadillas, on top of simply cooked beans with tortillas, or stirred into a bean soup, posole, or other Latin Americaninspired soup. Using the same technique as Simple Wild Sauerkraut and with a very different flavor profile I've enjoyed it on both fish and meat tacos, with quesadillas, on top of simply cooked beans with tortillas, or stirred into a bean soup, posole, or other Latin Americaninspired soup. Using the same technique as Simple Wild Sauerkraut and with a very different flavor profile, curtido is so simple to make and so versatile, you might find it becoming a staple in your kitchen. For my taste, I like a lighter ferment than for sauerkraut so I tend to only let my is so simple to make and so versatile, you might find it becoming a staple in your kitchen. For my taste, I like a lighter ferment than for sauerkraut so I tend to only let my curtido curtido ferment for three to five days. You'll want to taste it every day starting on day two and decide how you like it ferment for three to five days. You'll want to taste it every day starting on day two and decide how you like it.

TIME REQUIRED: 15 minutes active; 3 to 5 days pa.s.sive 15 minutes active; 3 to 5 days pa.s.sive YIELD: 1 quart 1 quart 1 medium head green cabbage (about 1 pounds), quartered, cored, and sliced as thinly as possible small onion, sliced thinly2 to 3 carrots, peeled and grated on the large holes of a box grater1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt2 jalapenos, cut in quarters lengthwise, seeded and sliced thinly teaspoon dried Mexican oregano, crushed Put the cabbage, onion, and carrots in a large bowl. Add the salt and, with clean hands, toss and squeeze the vegetables until they start to soften and release their liquid (about 5 minutes). Add the jalapenos and oregano and toss to distribute. Pack the mixture tightly into a 1-quart, wide-mouthed, gla.s.s Mason jar, pushing down on the vegetables with a wooden spoon or your fingertips with as much force as you can until the level of liquid rises above the vegetables. Put a smaller jar inside the gla.s.s jar to keep the vegetables submerged. Cover with a clean tea towel and secure with a rubber band. The curtido curtido needs to breathe. needs to breathe.

Leave out at room temperature for about 3 to 5 days. Check once daily to be sure the vegetables stay submerged, pushing down on them if needed. If you see a frothy residue on the surface, simply skim it off. Taste daily starting on the second day. The curtido curtido is ready when it tastes good to you. When it's to your liking, fasten the lid and transfer it to the refrigerator. It will last for months in the refrigerator. It doesn't really go bad but will soften over time. is ready when it tastes good to you. When it's to your liking, fasten the lid and transfer it to the refrigerator. It will last for months in the refrigerator. It doesn't really go bad but will soften over time.

Bread and b.u.t.ter Pickles Sweet and a little spicy, these cla.s.sics are great on sandwiches and paired with creamy cheeses. I think they go surprisingly well with Southeast Asianinspired dishes like grilled chicken with Spicy Southeast Asian Peanut Sauce Spicy Southeast Asian Peanut Sauce, and they're perfect chopped up in egg, potato, or chicken salad.

TIME REQUIRED: 15 minutes active; 3 days pa.s.sive 15 minutes active; 3 days pa.s.sive YIELD: 1 pint 1 pint About pound medium pickling or Persian cuc.u.mbers (4 to 5), peeled and sliced into -inch slices cup distilled white vinegar cup sugar teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon mustard seeds teaspoon ground turmericPinch of celery seedsPinch of red pepper flakes Sterilize a 1-pint mason jar and lid with boiling water. Drain them and air-dry. Pack the cuc.u.mber slices into the jar as tightly as they will go.

In a small saucepan over medium heat, bring cup water, the vinegar, sugar, salt, mustard seeds, turmeric, celery seeds, and red pepper flakes to a boil. Stir to dissolve the sugar. Lower the heat and let them simmer for 5 minutes. Pour the hot liquid over the cuc.u.mbers, fasten the lid, and refrigerate.

Let them sit for 3 days to allow the flavors to develop. They should taste crisp and sweetly sour. They will keep, refrigerated, for several weeks.

Italian Table Pickles Also called giardiniera, these are the pickled vegetables found in many an Italian antipasti. They're great for your Thanksgiving relish, with sandwiches, or alongside any rich, heavy, or meaty meal. You can use a variety of vegetables, depending on the season: bell peppers, broccoli, cauliflower, onion, carrot, green beans, radishes, fennel-whatever strikes your fancy and is in season. You can make them spicier by adding more red pepper. Whichever vegetables you use, a good rule of thumb is to allow approximately one pound of cut-up vegetables per quart jar. The rough quant.i.ties given below add up to about one pound.

TIME REQUIRED: 15 minutes active; 3 days pa.s.sive 15 minutes active; 3 days pa.s.sive YIELD: 1 quart 1 quart About head broccoli, cut into floretsAbout head cauliflower, cut into floretsAbout red onion, sliced into -inch pieces1 large carrot, cut into bite-sized chunks3 garlic cloves, sliced3 sprigs fresh dill1 cup distilled white vinegar1 teaspoon sugar1 teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon red pepper flakes teaspoon fennel seeds teaspoon peppercorns[image] teaspoon yellow mustard seeds Pinch of celery seeds teaspoon yellow mustard seeds Pinch of celery seeds2 dried bay leaves Sterilize a 1-quart mason jar and lid with boiling water. Drain them and air-dry. Pack the broccoli, cauliflower, onion, carrot, garlic, and dill into the jar. Use a chopstick to distribute the dill and garlic evenly.

In a small saucepan, bring 1 cup water, the vinegar, sugar, salt, and spices to a boil. Stir to dissolve the sugar and salt. Pour the hot brine over the vegetables, fasten the lid, and refrigerate. Let it sit for 3 days or so to let the flavors blend. The pickles will taste crisp and vinegary with a nice balance of salt. They will keep, refrigerated, for several weeks.

Pickled Kohlrabi and Turnips With Cardamom These easy refrigerator pickles are wonderfully versatile. Enjoy them as a snack or on sandwiches or serve them with Simple Dal drizzled with homemade Yogurt Yogurt. Kohlrabi is a crisp, slightly sweet and spicy bra.s.sica vegetable that I believe is underutilized and underappreciated in American kitchens. Like turnips, it can be cooked, but I enjoy it raw or pickled best.

TIME REQUIRED: 30 minutes active; 3 days pa.s.sive 30 minutes active; 3 days pa.s.sive YIELD: 1 quart 1 quart About pound turnipsAbout pound kohlrabi1[image] cups distilled white vinegar cups distilled white vinegar2 garlic cloves, peeled and left whole2 teaspoons sugar2 teaspoons kosher salt4 green cardamom pods, lightly crushed6 whole peppercorns teaspoon mustard seeds, lightly crushed teaspoon ground turmeric Peel the turnips and kohlrabi and cut them into quarters. Cut the quarters into -inch wedges (after tr.i.m.m.i.n.g, the yield is about 1 pound total).

Sterilize a 1-quart, wide-mouth mason jar and lid with boiling water. Drain them and air-dry.

In a nonreactive, heavy, medium saucepan, combine[image] cup water, the vinegar, garlic, sugar, salt, cardamom, peppercorns, mustard seeds, and turmeric. Bring to a boil, lower the heat to a simmer, and cook for 10 to 15 minutes. cup water, the vinegar, garlic, sugar, salt, cardamom, peppercorns, mustard seeds, and turmeric. Bring to a boil, lower the heat to a simmer, and cook for 10 to 15 minutes.

Pack the cut vegetables into the mason jar and pour the hot vinegar and spice mixture over them. Fasten the lid and refrigerate immediately. Refrigerate the pickles for 3 days before enjoying to allow the flavors to blend. The pickles will be crisp and infused with spices. They will keep, refrigerated, for several weeks.

Simple Dal This dish perfectly ill.u.s.trates how to eat simply, cheaply, and healthfully by using the building blocks in this book to make a complete meal. Cook some brown rice and make this dish in thirty minutes or so with nothing more than red lentils and a few simple spices. Accompany it with a side of sauteed greens, Pickled Kohlrabi and Turnips with Cardamom, homemade Yogurt Yogurt or or Easy Yogurt Cheese Easy Yogurt Cheese, Ajvar Ajvar, and homemade bread or even Flour Tortillas Flour Tortillas, and you have a very nice meal that doesn't pretend to be authentic to any one culture but whose flavors and textures go together beautifully. I encourage you to mix and match this book's building blocks in whatever ways interest you. Of course you've invested time up front on some of the accompaniments, but it's like time in the bank later.

TIME REQUIRED: about 30 minutes (excluding accompaniment preparation) about 30 minutes (excluding accompaniment preparation) YIELD: 4 servings 4 servings 1 cup split red lentils teaspoon ground turmericSalt2 tablespoons vegetable oil yellow or red onion, thinly sliced2 small, dried red chiles teaspoon c.u.min seeds teaspoon mustard seeds2 garlic cloves, finely choppedFreshly ground black pepper Rinse the lentils and put them in a medium saucepan with 4 cups water, the turmeric, and a few pinches of salt. Bring to a boil, lower the heat to a bare simmer, and cover partially. Cook until the lentils are soft and resemble a thick, textured porridge, stirring occasionally and watching so it doesn't boil over or scorch, 15 to 20 minutes.

In a heavy, medium skillet over medium-high heat, warm the oil. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until it begins to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the chiles, c.u.min, and mustard seeds and cook, stirring, for about 1 minute, until the seeds start to pop. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds. Stir this mixture into the lentils and cover. Let them sit for 5 minutes or so to blend the flavors. Season with salt and pepper. Serve with the accompaniments suggested in the head note.

Spicy Pickled Green Beans These spicy, garden-fresh beans are wonderful as part of a relish tray, served alongside sandwiches, tucked into a b.l.o.o.d.y Mary, or tossed into Potato Salad with Spicy Pickled Green Beans and Hard-Cooked Eggs.

TIME REQUIRED: 15 minutes active; 3 days pa.s.sive 15 minutes active; 3 days pa.s.sive YIELD: 1 quart 1 quart 1 pound green beans, stems snapped off and left whole2 fresh mild red chiles (such as Fresno), quartered lengthwise and seeded2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced3 or 4 sprigs fresh dill1[image] cups distilled white vinegar cups distilled white vinegar1 tablespoon sugar2 teaspoons kosher salt1 teaspoon yellow mustard seeds Sterilize a 1-quart mason jar and its lid with boiling water. Drain them and air-dry.

Pack the green beans, chiles, garlic, and dill into the jar in alternating layers, distributing them evenly.

In a small saucepan over medium heat, bring[image] cup water, the vinegar, sugar, salt, and mustard seeds to a boil. Stir to dissolve the sugar and let the mixture boil for 5 minutes. Pour the hot liquid over the green beans, fasten the lid, and refrigerate. Let it sit for 3 days to blend the flavors. The beans will remain crisp, with the flavors of the spices evident. The pickled green beans will keep, refrigerated, for several weeks. cup water, the vinegar, sugar, salt, and mustard seeds to a boil. Stir to dissolve the sugar and let the mixture boil for 5 minutes. Pour the hot liquid over the green beans, fasten the lid, and refrigerate. Let it sit for 3 days to blend the flavors. The beans will remain crisp, with the flavors of the spices evident. The pickled green beans will keep, refrigerated, for several weeks.

Potato Salad with Spicy Pickled Green Beans and Hard-Cooked Eggs [image]

This salad has a down-home uncomplicated taste, like a mid-day Sunday farmhouse supper-roasted chicken, biscuits, potato salad, and iced tea, all laid out on a checkered tablecloth. I really like the combination of tart, spicy green beans; creamy potatoes; and hard-cooked eggs. You don't even have to make a dressing. Just toss with olive oil and pickle juice from the Spicy Pickled Green Beans. If you want to make this salad but don't have any pickles on hand, replace the pickled green beans with fresh steamed green beans and make Basic Best-Ever Vinaigrette Basic Best-Ever Vinaigrette to dress the salad to dress the salad.

TIME REQUIRED: 20 minutes active; 20 minutes pa.s.sive (excluding pickle preparation) 20 minutes active; 20 minutes pa.s.sive (excluding pickle preparation) YIELD: 6 to 8 servings 6 to 8 servings 4 large eggs1 pounds young fingerling or Yukon gold potatoes1 small red onion, thinly sliced1 bunch radishes (about 6), halved and thinly sliced1 celery rib, cut in half lengthwise and thinly sliced on the diagonal1 cups Spicy Pickled Green Beans, cut into 1-inch lengths, juices reserved cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley1 tablespoon snipped fresh chives1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill cup olive oilSaltFreshly ground black pepper Put the eggs in a small saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Turn off the heat, cover, and leave the eggs undisturbed for 12 minutes (15 minutes if the eggs are very large). Drain the eggs and run cold water over them. Let them sit in the cold water until you are ready to peel them.

Meanwhile, wash the potatoes, leaving them unpeeled. In a vegetable steamer over medium-high heat, steam them until tender, about 15 minutes. Remove them from the steamer and let cool slightly.

Cut the potatoes into bite-sized pieces and put them in a large salad bowl. Add the onion, radishes, celery, green beans, and herbs. Peel the eggs and cut them into -inch pieces. Add them to the bowl. Toss and add the oil, season with salt and pepper, and add pickle juice to taste. Serve immediately, or within 2 hours at room temperature. This salad tastes best if it's consumed the day it is made and never refrigerated. If you must make it ahead, it will keep, refrigerated, for up to 5 days. Remove from the refrigerator 30 minutes before serving and taste and adjust the salt and pepper.

Garlicky Cuc.u.mber Pickle Relish [image]

Pounding the garlic helps to distribute its flavor fully throughout this relish. I like a chunky relish like this to spoon over beans or Black-Eyed Peas with Stewed Okra and Tomatoes Black-Eyed Peas with Stewed Okra and Tomatoes. It also works as a fresh salsa on grilled chicken or fish. If you like a finer-textured relish, you can grate the cuc.u.mbers instead of dicing them, but you'll need to use a few more to fill your pint.

TIME REQUIRED: 15 minutes active; 20 minutes plus 3 days pa.s.sive 15 minutes active; 20 minutes plus 3 days pa.s.sive YIELD: 1 pint 1 pint 1 pound pickling or Persian cuc.u.mbers (about 6), peeled1 teaspoon kosher salt cup distilled white vinegar1 teaspoon sugar1 garlic clove, peeled and left whole1 small, fresh mild red chile (such as a Fresno), seeded and quartered, then sliced thinly1 teaspoon chopped fresh dill Sterilize a 1-pint mason jar and its lid with boiling water. Drain them and air-dry.

Cut the cuc.u.mbers into quarters lengthwise and sc.r.a.pe out the seeds. Cut each quarter lengthwise in half and then dice it into -inch pieces. If using plump pickling cuc.u.mbers, you will need to cut them one more time lengthwise to get a -inch dice. Put the cuc.u.mbers in a strainer and sprinkle teaspoon of the salt over them. Toss with your hands to distribute, and let the cuc.u.mbers drain for about 30 minutes. Squeeze and ma.s.sage the cuc.u.mbers with your hands once or twice during this time to help them release their liquid.

In a small saucepan over medium heat, bring cup water, the vinegar, sugar, and remaining teaspoon salt to a boil. Boil for 5 minutes.

Pound the garlic to a paste with a pinch of salt in a mortar and pestle.

Remove the vinegar mixture from the heat and stir in the garlic.

Pack the drained cuc.u.mbers, the chile, and dill into the mason jar. Pour the hot vinegar mixture over them and fasten the lid. Refrigerate for 3 days to blend the flavors. The relish will remain crisp with the flavor of garlic and spices permeating the cuc.u.mbers. It will keep, refrigerated, for up to 2 weeks.

Black-Eyed Peas with Stewed Okra and Tomatoes with Garlicky Cuc.u.mber Pickle Relish Black-eyed peas are so rich, it's nice to have a little something vinegary and spicy alongside them. For this reason, I always serve this dish with a spoonful of Garlicky Cuc.u.mber Pickle Relish. If you've spent much time dining in the South, you will be reminded of the bottles of chile-infused vinegar that are often available for diners to shake over rich, pork-infused greens or red beans and rice. This dish is great on its own, but it becomes a balanced meal when served over rice.

TIME REQUIRED: 30 minutes active; about 1 hour pa.s.sive (excluding relish preparation) 30 minutes active; about 1 hour pa.s.sive (excluding relish preparation) YIELD: 6 to 8 servings 6 to 8 servings 6 tablespoons vegetable oil for high-heat cooking1 yellow onion, diced1 celery rib, diced2 garlic cloves, finely chopped1 pound dried black-eyed peas, rinsed and drainedSalt1 pound fresh okra (choose small pods if available), left wholeFreshly ground black pepper1 pound fresh Roma tomatoes, cut into -inch dice teaspoon smoked paprikaGarlicky Cuc.u.mber Pickle Relish for serving for serving In a large soup pot over medium heat, warm 3 tablespoons of the oil. Add half of the diced onion, the celery, and the garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and fragrant, about 10 minutes. Add the peas and water to cover by 1 inch. Turn up the heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover partially, and simmer until the peas are almost tender, about 30 minutes. Stir occasionally to prevent sticking and add a little water, as needed, but don't add too much as this should not be an overly soupy dish. Season with salt. Continue cooking, covered, over low heat until the peas are tender and most of the broth is absorbed, another 15 minutes.

In a large skillet s.p.a.cious enough to hold all the okra, heat the remaining 3 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat. (I sometimes use a wok because it's large enough to contain all the okra, making it easy to toss.) Add the okra and a little salt and pepper and cook, stirring often, until the okra begins to soften and brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove the okra pods from the skillet to a bowl or plate and lower the heat to medium-low. If the okra pods are large (more than 1 inches long), cut them crosswise on the diagonal into two or three pieces. Add the remaining diced onion, and cook until the onion is fragrant, 7 or 8 minutes. Add the tomatoes and paprika and return the okra to the pan. Cover partially and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the okra is soft and the tomatoes have cooked down, about 10 minutes. Taste and correct the seasoning with salt and pepper.

Serve the stewed okra and tomatoes over the black-eyed peas with the Garlicky Cuc.u.mber Pickle Relish on the side.

NOTE: If you dislike the viscosity of okra, be aware that this characteristic is enhanced by cutting and exposing it to moisture. There are two methods for reducing slime. Buy small okra and cook it whole, never cutting it. Or, if only larger pods are available, cook them over high heat for 10 minutes before cutting and adding them back to the pan with the tomatoes to finish cooking. The initial high heat works to cauterize the okra, preventing excessive slime If you dislike the viscosity of okra, be aware that this characteristic is enhanced by cutting and exposing it to moisture. There are two methods for reducing slime. Buy small okra and cook it whole, never cutting it. Or, if only larger pods are available, cook them over high heat for 10 minutes before cutting and adding them back to the pan with the tomatoes to finish cooking. The initial high heat works to cauterize the okra, preventing excessive slime.

TIP: You can cook the peas 1 to 3 days ahead and keep them refrigerated until you are ready to cook the okra and tomatoes. The whole dish makes fantastic leftovers You can cook the peas 1 to 3 days ahead and keep them refrigerated until you are ready to cook the okra and tomatoes. The whole dish makes fantastic leftovers.

Chapter Six.

Beverages KombuchaAbout Homemade Soft DrinksRoot BeerGinger BeerAlmond MilkHorchataHibiscus Tea WHEN I WAS A KID, sodas were a special once-in-awhile treat. Now, giant bottles of carbonated water, high-fructose corn syrup, chemical additives, and artificial colors are ubiquitous and heavily consumed by both children and adults. As criticism has mounted over soda's stranglehold over school vending machines, the industry has come up with alternative juice and tea drinks that are perceived to be more healthful, but they are still filled with sugar and processed ingredients. However, it's easy and fun to make your own tasty carbonated and noncarbonated drinks. And you'll cut out the chemicals, corn syrup, and excessive packaging. Homemade sodas naturally fermented with yeast are simple enough for kids to make. They'll learn about fermentation and enjoy their homemade sodas as the special treat they were meant to be. Taqueria favorites like horchata (rice milk) and jamaica (hibiscus tea) are great for parties and special occasions. The ancient beverage kombucha, which has become popular commercially over the past few years, is a healthful, raw drink that is naturally fermented and so easy to make at home. Just say "No more!" to over-sweetened bottles of empty calories.

Kombucha Kombucha is made by fermenting black tea and sugar with a special culture. It is slightly fizzy, a little bit tart, and very refreshing-like a slightly sour apple cider. It contains beneficial bacteria that aid digestion and boost the immune system. The sugar and caffeine are consumed by the culture, so they do not end up in the final product. Many people consider kombucha to be a powerful cure-all. In recent years, several commercial brands have emerged, usually sold in health food stores and specialty groceries. It is much less expensive to make your own. Many of the commercial brands are flavored. You can flavor yours however you like (with crushed fresh berries or other fruit, or with a bit of grated ginger). Do this after the fermentation is complete. I prefer to flavor my kombucha subtly by brewing it with a mixture of black tea and herbal tea. Elderflower tea, which I call for here, makes a light kombucha with a Sauvignon Blanclike character, but you should experiment on your own once you master the basic method.

TIME REQUIRED: 15 minutes active; 10 to 15 days pa.s.sive 15 minutes active; 10 to 15 days pa.s.sive YIELD: 1 gallon 1 gallon 6 black tea bags (I like to use organic oolong)2 tablespoons loose elderflower tea (or other herbal flower tea), in a tea-infusing sack1 cup sugar1 kombucha culture (see Sources Sources) Wash a 1-gallon gla.s.s container (such as a sun tea jug) in hot soapy water and let it air-dry.

In a large pot, bring 1 gallon water to a boil. Boil for 3 minutes. Meanwhile, put the tea bags and tea sack in another large gla.s.s container, such as a 4-cup gla.s.s measuring pitcher.

Pour some of the boiling water over the tea bags and let them steep until the water cools completely. Add the sugar to the remaining hot water and stir to dissolve. Let the tea water and the sugar water cool to room temperature.

Put the kombucha culture in the empty gla.s.s container. Discard the tea bags and tea sack, and pour the steeped tea and the sugar water into the container with the kombucha culture. Cover the jar with a towel fastened tightly with a rubber band to keep bugs out. (Fruit flies love kombucha.) Do not use a tightly fastened lid, though, as the culture needs to breathe. Place the jar in a cool, dark place (such as a cupboard) for 7 to 10 days. The actual time will depend on your culture and the warmth of the room. Your kombucha will brew faster in hot weather. A film will form on the top of the liquid, which means the culture is working and reproducing. Try not to jostle it while it's brewing because you'll eventually want to use this new culture, so it's best if it stays intact.

Every time you make kombucha, you will produce a new culture. These can be composted or given away to friends. The mother you started with will eventually weaken, so you should always hold back a few "babies" to keep your culture going. When the mother is very dark and rubbery, it should be discarded. After 5 days, begin tasting your kombucha daily. If your container doesn't have a spigot, this can be done with a small spoon. The kombucha is done when it is no longer sweet. It should taste like tart apple cider. Decant it into gla.s.s bottles, so there is no heads.p.a.ce and seal tightly with lids, making sure to save a culture to start the process over. Give away or refrigerate extras. Leave in a cool, dark place, undisturbed, for 5 days. This will allow your kombucha to develop a desirable fizziness. Start another batch in your clean, empty container. After 5 days, the bottles of decanted kombucha can be transferred to the refrigerator and enjoyed.

About Homemade Soft Drinks Making your own soft drinks is simpler than you probably think. It requires nothing more than water, sugar (or other sweeteners), natural flavorings, and yeast to start the fermentation process. Once you get started, you can experiment with different flavors. These recipes call for a special yeast used by home beer brewers, which is easy to find online (see Sources Sources) or at home-brewer shops. This yeast, like active dry yeast, should be kept refrigerated. Though I prefer gla.s.s to plastic, generally speaking, I use plastic 1-liter bottles from bottled water on the off chance the soda over-ferments and explodes before I can refrigerate it. I've found it's a good way to rotate through my supply of earthquake/disaster water, which shouldn't be kept around for more than a year anyway. Don't let the talk of explosions scare you, though. They are rare and never happen once the soda is refrigerated.

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