Season with salt when the beans are nearly soft. Do not add tomatoes or any other type of acidic ingredient until the beans are nearly done, because acid inhibits their cooking. Remove from the heat and let the beans cool in their liquid. Cover and refrigerate for up to 5 days.

TIP: Because dried beans that have been harvested within a year cook more evenly and have superior texture and flavor, choose beans from the bulk bins of a busy store or buy from a grower at your farmers' market. Because dried beans that have been harvested within a year cook more evenly and have superior texture and flavor, choose beans from the bulk bins of a busy store or buy from a grower at your farmers' market.

Simple Sesame Tahini Dressing Besides being tasty on grain and Asian noodle salads, this dressing is also fantastic drizzled over grilled fish or chicken or fresh sliced tomatoes, or used as a sandwich spread. Tahini is a paste made from ground sesame seeds, used often in Middle Eastern cuisine (it's one of the essential ingredients in hummus). You can find tahini in both raw and roasted versions, in either jars or cans. It is produced both domestically and overseas. Look for it in health food and specialty stores and in the world foods aisle in some grocery stores. Any type of tahini can be used in this recipe. I buy locally produced organic, raw tahini from Artisana. Tahini should be refrigerated after opening as it goes rancid quickly.

TIME REQUIRED: about 10 minutes active about 10 minutes active YIELD: about cup about cup 2 garlic cloves, peeled and left wholeSalt[image] cup sesame tahini paste cup sesame tahini paste3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice2 teaspoons honey1 teaspoon soy sauce teaspoon toasted sesame oil With a mortar and pestle, pound the garlic to a paste with a pinch of salt. In a blender, combine the garlic paste, tahini,[image] cup water, the lemon juice, honey, soy sauce, and sesame oil and blend until smooth. Season with salt. Use immediately or cover and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks. cup water, the lemon juice, honey, soy sauce, and sesame oil and blend until smooth. Season with salt. Use immediately or cover and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.

Wheat Berry Salad with Roasted Beets, Kale, Toasted Walnuts, and Simple Sesame Tahini Dressing [image]

This is just one of many different seasonal grain salads that can be made with the Simple Sesame Tahini Dressing. You can vary the grain by using brown or other types of rice, farro, quinoa, or kamut. Likewise, vary the vegetables seasonally. In summer, you'll want to use tomatoes, green beans, and cuc.u.mbers; in fall, roasted squash and pumpkin seeds; in spring, sweet peas, asparagus, or fava beans. You could also add shredded leftover chicken, canned wild salmon, or hard-cooked eggs for protein.

TIME REQUIRED: about 45 minutes active; 1 hour pa.s.sive about 45 minutes active; 1 hour pa.s.sive YIELD: 6 servings 6 servings 4 small to medium beets (see Tip Tip) cup (about 2 ounces) walnut halves, coa.r.s.ely chopped1 cup wheat berries, soaked for 4 to 5 hours or overnight and drainedSalt1 bunch Lacinato or green or red kale cup Simple Sesame Tahini DressingFreshly ground black pepper Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.

Trim the beets and wrap them in one or two foil packets, depending on their size, keeping like-sized beets with like-sized beets. Put them in a baking dish to prevent beet juice from leaking into your oven and roast until tender and fragrant, 35 to 40 minutes. Use a small paring knife or skewer to check for doneness. The knife or skewer should go in easily with a small amount of resistance. Set them aside to steam in their foil packets. When they are cool enough to handle, peel them by rubbing the skins off with your fingertips, and then cut the beets into bite-sized wedges. Alternatively, the beets can be roasted up to 5 days ahead and refrigerated, left in their foil wrappers, until ready to use.

Lower the oven temperature to 300 degrees F.

In a small baking dish, arrange the walnuts in a single layer. Toast until brown and fragrant, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool.

While the beets are roasting and the walnuts are toasting, set a medium saucepan with 3 cups of water over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil and add the wheat berries and a pinch of salt. Lower the heat to a slow simmer, cover partially, and cook until tender and pleasantly chewy, 45 to 50 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the wheat berries sit until you are ready to a.s.semble the salad.

Meanwhile, trim, stem, and wash the kale and put it in a vegetable steamer set over boiling water. Steam until tender and wilted, but still bright green, about 5 minutes. Remove immediately to a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking. Drain and squeeze out excess moisture. Chop coa.r.s.ely and set aside.

When all the ingredients are ready, drain the wheat berries and transfer them to a serving bowl. Add the beet wedges, kale, and walnuts. Add the dressing and toss thoroughly. Taste and correct the seasoning with salt and pepper and serve immediately or within 2 hours at room temperature. The salad can also be covered and refrigerated for 3 to 4 days. Bring to room temperature before serving.

TIP: I like to roast beets this way whenever I have the oven on for something else. It's an energy-saving strategy and a great way to have cooked beets on hand for adding to salads anytime I like to roast beets this way whenever I have the oven on for something else. It's an energy-saving strategy and a great way to have cooked beets on hand for adding to salads anytime.

The Great Salad Toss-Up Guide Do you want to eat more seasonally, locally, sustainably, and healthfully, and avoid falling back on supermarket takeout or restaurants after a busy day? Here's a system to do that, but first you must banish the image of a typical green salad from your mind.

Shop your farmers' market and buy a variety of seasonal vegetables to have on hand. Keep your pantry stocked with grains and legumes. Cook one variety of grain and legume each over the weekend to have on hand for the week, and you'll be able to create flavorful, balanced salad meals very quickly.

Make extra and brown-bag your lunch. Think of meat as an occasional embellishment, use up leftover cooked vegetables from other meals, and you'll have a zero-waste, economical, and sustainable kitchen, and you'll get plenty of vegetables in your diet without even trying.

Look at the four salad recipes in this chapter, read the seasonal suggestions in their head notes, and consider the tips below to begin to get a feel for good combinations. Pretty soon you'll be creating your own favorites by instinct and by the season.

Use the lists lists to follow this four-step system for creating endless salads whatever the season or your mood. to follow this four-step system for creating endless salads whatever the season or your mood.

1. Choose 1 salad base (or combine a grain and legume).2. Add 2 or 3 vegetable and/or protein additions, depending on what's in season and what sounds good to you.3. Add 1 or 2 garnishes and embellishments.4. Choose your dressing, and toss.

SEVEN WINNING SALAD COMBINATIONS.

Lentils, roasted beets, slivered fennel, arugula, feta, and Basic Best-Ever Vinaigrette Basic Best-Ever Vinaigrette made with lemon juice made with lemon juice Brown rice, corn, cherry tomatoes, sauteed summer squash, Fresh Whole-Milk Soft Cheese Fresh Whole-Milk Soft Cheese, and Tomato-Garlic Vinaigrette Tomato-Garlic Vinaigrette Quinoa with sauteed mushrooms, mustard greens, sugar snap peas, Spicy Kimchi Spicy Kimchi, sesame oil, and Soy-Ginger Dressing Soy-Ginger Dressing Potatoes with roasted asparagus, radishes, mixed fresh herbs, and Creamy Herb Dressing Creamy Herb Dressing Chickpeas with roasted red peppers, green beans, avocado, olives, and Simple Sesame Tahini Dressing Simple Sesame Tahini Dressing Rice noodles with shredded Mustard and Bourbon-Glazed Pork Roast Mustard and Bourbon-Glazed Pork Roast, sugar snap peas, green onions, sesame oil, and Soy-Ginger Dressing Soy-Ginger Dressing Wheat berries, roasted b.u.t.ternut squash cubes, sauteed chard, toasted walnuts or pumpkin seeds, goat cheese, and Basic Best-Ever Vinaigrette Basic Best-Ever Vinaigrette THE PROBLEM WITH TUNA.

You may have noticed that I recommend canned wild salmon, herring, and sardines, but not tuna. That's because many species of tuna are endangered and others are caught using methods that harm the environment. Also, larger, longer-lived species of tuna can have high levels of mercury. Since it's hard to know which type of tuna is in those little cans or how it was caught, I usually avoid it unless I can find hook-and-line caught (but not long-line caught) skipjack or some other small breed of tuna. Go to www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/seafoodwatch.aspx to learn more about choosing sustainable seafood. to learn more about choosing sustainable seafood.

SALAD BASES.

* Beans and legumes: any kind, from black beans to lentils to chickpeas* Potatoes: new potatoes, fingerlings, small red potatoes, and sweet Yukon golds are fantastic for salads* Grains: wheat berries, quinoa, brown rice, farro, kamut, barley* Soba and rice noodles VEGETABLE AND PROTEIN ADDITIONS.

* Roasted beets* Roasted red peppers* Arugula, endive, or radicchio* Steamed or roasted asparagus* Sauteed or steamed chard, kale, mustard greens, or collards* Sauteed mushrooms* Steamed green beans, snow peas, or sugar snap peas* Roasted cubed squash or sweet potatoes* Tomatoes* Cuc.u.mbers* Corn, cut off the cob* Thinly sliced fennel* Sauteed summer squash* Radishes* Sea vegetables, such as wakame or hijiki* Hard-cooked egg* Canned fish: wild salmon, mackerel, or sardines* Leftover shredded chicken, pork, or beef GARNISHES AND EMBELLISHMENTS.

* Simple Wild Sauerkraut Simple Wild Sauerkraut* Spicy Kimchi Spicy Kimchi* Micro greens or sprouts* Gomashio (a flavorful mixture of sesame seeds, salt, and sometimes seaweed that is used in j.a.panese and macrobiotic cooking)* Toasted nori* Green onions* Sesame oil* Fresh Whole-Milk Soft Cheese Fresh Whole-Milk Soft Cheese, feta, blue cheese, or creamy goat cheese* Fresh herbs: basil, chervil, savory, cilantro, and parsley* Olives* Avocado* Toasted nuts and seeds dressings DRESSINGS.

* Creamy Herb Dressing Creamy Herb Dressing* Basic Best-Ever Vinaigrette Basic Best-Ever Vinaigrette with lemon, vinegar, or with lemon, vinegar, or Tomato-Garlic Vinaigrette Tomato-Garlic Vinaigrette* Simple Sesame Tahini Dressing Simple Sesame Tahini Dressing* Soy-Ginger Dressing Soy-Ginger Dressing

Chapter Three.

Dairy Products YogurtEasy Yogurt CheeseFrequently Asked Yogurt QuestionsBeet and Turnip Salad with Yogurt and HerbsStone FruitYogurt Cake with Cornmeal and Walnut StreuselFresh Whole-Milk Soft CheeseWhat to Do with WheyMarinated Fresh CheeseSavory Spinach-Cheese Pie with Olive Oil CrustFresh Cheese CrepesFresh Pasta with Asparagus, Homemade Cheese, and LemonCreme FraicheDairy DiscoveryArtichoke Soup with Creme FraicheCultured b.u.t.terMascarpone CheesePain Perdu with Maple-Cinnamon Mascarpone THE DAIRY PRODUCTS YOU WILL FIND in this chapter start simply-with milk or cream and some sort of culturing or curdling agent. It's my intention to provide a useful repertoire of dairy products boiled down to a few simple formulas and techniques. If you are interested in learning more about making your own dairy products or getting into more complicated cheeses, there are resources resources in the back of this book to help you. in the back of this book to help you.

There is nothing more satisfying than watching your own fresh cheese form curds or tasting your own homemade tangy yogurt or creamy cultured b.u.t.ter for the first time. Many commercial dairy products are full of artificial flavors, stabilizers, and colors. Not so with homemade. And it's a simple process that anyone can master. All you need is good milk or cream and a few simple tools. The dairy products in this chapter can be made by anyone, in any home kitchen. The methods are simple and streamlined and avoid the use of special equipment whenever possible. You'll find four fresh and delicious homemade dairy products and a variety of special recipes that utilize them-everything from pasta to crepes to a cake.

Yogurt Plain, full-fat yogurt is a staple in my house. I eat it for breakfast with honey, fresh fruit, and Granola Your Way Granola Your Way. It's also great with maple syrup or jam stirred in. Sometimes I drizzle it into whole-grain porridge whole-grain porridge; drain it to transform it into thick, creamy dressings and dips; dollop it on Simple Dal Simple Dal or spicy grilled chicken; blend it with fresh summer fruit into smoothies; or add it to baked goods for a luscious tang. It's very easy to make yogurt without a yogurt maker, but you will need a method for keeping your yogurt warm while it cultures. Read the or spicy grilled chicken; blend it with fresh summer fruit into smoothies; or add it to baked goods for a luscious tang. It's very easy to make yogurt without a yogurt maker, but you will need a method for keeping your yogurt warm while it cultures. Read the FAQs FAQs before getting started before getting started.

TIME REQUIRED: 20 minutes active; 20 minutes pa.s.sive, but watchful; 8 to 10 hours pa.s.sive 20 minutes active; 20 minutes pa.s.sive, but watchful; 8 to 10 hours pa.s.sive YIELD: 1 quart 1 quart 1 quart of the best milk available (I use non-h.o.m.ogenized, full-fat organic cow's milk from a local dairy, but you can use low-fat milk if you prefer)2 tablespoons plain yogurt with active cultures, or 1 teaspoon powdered yogurt starterEQUIPMENT NEEDEDA candy or dairy thermometer (optional but helpful)A one-quart mason jarA whisk that will fit into the mason jar Pour the milk into a large saucepan and turn the heat to medium-low. Heat it slowly, stirring occasionally, until it is just below the boiling point, about 20 minutes. Watch carefully and do not allow it to boil. If you have a thermometer, the milk should be about 185 degrees F. There are some visual and olfactory cues to look for if you don't have a thermometer. Tiny bubbles will form just under the skin that covers the surface of the milk. The surface will undulate slightly, but the bubbles shouldn't break the surface. The milk will have a cheesy, scalded aroma. Once the milk reaches this state, hold it there for 5 minutes.

While you wait for the milk to come up to temperature, sterilize a 1-quart mason jar and its lid with boiling water. Let them air-dry. Warm a large pot of water for a water bath, if using.

Once the milk has remained at 185 degrees F for 5 minutes, remove it from the heat and let it cool down to 115 degrees F, stirring occasionally. This will take 20 to 30 minutes.

Put the yogurt or starter in the bottom of the sterilized mason jar and add about cup of the cooled milk. Whisk to blend well. Add the remaining cooled milk, stirring well to distribute the cultures throughout. Fasten the lid and place the jar in your incubator of choice for 8 to 10 hours.

Remove the jar from the incubator and refrigerate it until cool before eating. If your yogurt is a little lumpy, simply whisk it smooth before eating. If you would like thicker yogurt, strain it to the desired thickness in a coffee filter set in a strainer over a bowl. The whey that drains off can be used to soak grains, cook beans, or ferment beets soak grains, cook beans, or ferment beets.

Easy Yogurt Cheese Drain 1 quart of yogurt in the refrigerator in a coffee filter set over a strainer for 12 hours and you have yogurt cheese. It's sublime with fresh, sweet strawberries and makes an impressive appetizer with olive oil and the Middle Eastern spice za'atar. Serve it with Ajvar Ajvar, a.s.sorted pickles a.s.sorted pickles, and Whole-Wheat Sesame Crackers Whole-Wheat Sesame Crackers. One quart of yogurt yields about 1[image] cups of yogurt cheese cups of yogurt cheese.

Frequently Asked Yogurt Questions WHY MAKE YOGURT?.

1. If you find yourself drowning in plastic yogurt containers, making your own yogurt will solve that problem.

2. It may be difficult for you to find good-quality, plain yogurt without additives, gums, or thickeners.

3. Sometimes supermarket yogurt is super-heated, which kills some of the beneficial live cultures.

4. You'll save money because fresh, organic milk is less expensive than organic yogurt.

CAN I USE A YOGURT MAKER?.

You can buy a yogurt maker if you want to be completely foolproof, but all you really need is yogurt starter, a thermometer, and a method for keeping your yogurt at a steady 90 to 100 degrees F for 8 to 10 hours.

WHAT KIND OF STARTER SHOULD I USE?.

You can use plain store-bought active yogurt, and your own homemade yogurt after that, or powdered yogurt culture bought in a grocery or natural foods store. Powdered culture will give you more consistent results and is necessary if you forget to hold back some yogurt for the next batch.

Powdered starter is available in small jars in the refrigerated section where dietary supplements are sold. The directions on the jar will tell you how much to use. You can also purchase yogurt starter from a cheese supply house cheese supply house.

WHAT'S THE BEST WAY TO INCUBATE YOGURT?

You may have to experiment a couple of times until you find the method that works best for you, but below are a few ideas.

1. Put a quart jar of ripening yogurt in a large pot of water heated to 90 to 100 degrees F and keep the whole thing in the oven overnight with the light on, or in a gas oven with the pilot light on.

2. Wrap the jar in a black plastic garbage bag and leave it in the sun on an 80- to 85-degree-F day for about 8 hours.

3. Put the yogurt in a warm water bath and set the whole thing in an insulated cooler with towels wrapped around it for 8 to 10 hours.

4. Wrap a heating pad set on low around a jar of ripening yogurt for 8 to 10 hours.

5. Make the yogurt directly in a pre-warmed insulated thermos and keep it in a warm place while it cultures.

Beet and Turnip Salad with Yogurt and Herbs This salad is the essence of uncomplicated deliciousness. All you do is steam the vegetables, whisk herbs into the Yogurt, and toss it together. Because the turnips will cook faster than the beets, steam the vegetables separately or use a two-level steamer that allows you to cook both at once, separately. Vary the herbs according to your taste and what's in your garden.

TIME REQUIRED: 10 minutes active; 25 minutes pa.s.sive (excluding yogurt preparation) 10 minutes active; 25 minutes pa.s.sive (excluding yogurt preparation) YIELD: 4 servings 4 servings 1 pound Tokyo (small white) or golden turnips, trimmed, or regular turnips, quartered1 pound medium beets, trimmed[image] cup cup Yogurt Yogurt1 tablespoon snipped fresh chives1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley2 teaspoons chopped fresh dill Pinch of fresh thymeSaltFreshly ground black pepper Place the turnips and beets on separate levels of a two-level steamer. If you only have one level, start the beets first as they will take 5 to 10 minutes longer. Turn the heat to medium, bring to a boil, and steam until the vegetables are tender, checking the water level occasionally, and adding more if necessary. The turnips will take about 15 minutes and the beets about 25 minutes.

In a small bowl, whisk together the yogurt, chives, parsley, dill, and thyme (or whatever herbs you are using). Season with salt and pepper. Set aside.

Remove the vegetables from the heat, let cool, and peel the beets. Cut the beets and turnips into bite-sized wedges and transfer them to a medium bowl. Pour the herbed yogurt over, toss to coat, and season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

TIP: The yogurt can be mixed with the herbs a couple of hours ahead of time, and the vegetables can be steamed and refrigerated up to 2 days ahead. It's best not to mix the vegetables and yogurt until you are ready to serve, as the beets stain the salad and the yogurt becomes watery. If you've cooked the vegetables ahead and refrigerated them, bring them to room temperature before tossing with the yogurt and serving The yogurt can be mixed with the herbs a couple of hours ahead of time, and the vegetables can be steamed and refrigerated up to 2 days ahead. It's best not to mix the vegetables and yogurt until you are ready to serve, as the beets stain the salad and the yogurt becomes watery. If you've cooked the vegetables ahead and refrigerated them, bring them to room temperature before tossing with the yogurt and serving.

Stone FruitYogurt Cake With Cornmeal and Walnut Streusel [image]

This cake is perfect for nonbakers because it's easy and foolproof. Inspired by a b.u.mper crop of plums from a relative's tree and my own homemade yogurt, I created this one summer day. The streusel was my friend Haven Bourque's suggestion. This has become my signature cake and may become yours as well. It's a great way to use frozen, sliced stone fruit of any sort, any time of year. Apples or pears, sauteed until soft before folding into the cake, are also a great idea.

TIME REQUIRED: about 30 minutes active; 45 minutes pa.s.sive (excluding b.u.t.ter and yogurt preparation) about 30 minutes active; 45 minutes pa.s.sive (excluding b.u.t.ter and yogurt preparation) YIELD: 8 to 10 servings 8 to 10 servings 1 cups unbleached all-purpose flour cup yellow cornmeal1 teaspoons baking powder teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon baking soda8 tablespoons Cultured b.u.t.ter Cultured b.u.t.ter or store-bought b.u.t.ter, softened or store-bought b.u.t.ter, softened cup granulated sugar cup lightly packed brown sugar2 large eggs1 teaspoon vanilla extract[image] cup plain whole-milk cup plain whole-milk Yogurt Yogurt3 cups sliced fresh or thawed frozen plums or other fruit1 cup (about 4 ounces) pecan or walnut halves, lightly toasted and roughly chopped Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

Lightly b.u.t.ter and flour a 10-inch round cake pan. You can use a springform pan if you want to unmold it and serve it on a platter.

In a small bowl, sift together the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, salt, and baking soda.

In a large bowl, using a handheld mixer, beat together the b.u.t.ter, granulated sugar, and cup of the brown sugar until creamy. Add the eggs and vanilla and mix to combine.

Add the dry ingredients and the yogurt to the sugar mixture in two additions, starting with the dry ingredients and ending with the yogurt. Fold in the fruit.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Mix together the nuts and the remaining brown sugar and sprinkle over the top of the cake.

Bake on the middle shelf of the oven, until the cake rises in the center and browns, and a toothpick inserted into the cake comes out clean, about 45 minutes. Set the cake on a cooling rack and let it cool completely before cutting and serving, or removing from the pan. Wrap any leftovers well and store at room temperature for up to 2 days. The cake will keep, refrigerated, for 1 week, or may be frozen for 1 month, if wrapped well, whole or in pieces.

Fresh Whole-Milk Soft Cheese [image]

There is a whole cla.s.s of cheese made using this method. Ricotta is one, though it was traditionally made from the whey left over from making hard cheeses. This recipe makes a cheese similar to whole-milk ricotta. The same process is used to make queso blanco and panir, but that soft Indian cheese is lightly pressed. Whatever you call this fresh cheese, it's versatile; is easy for anyone to make; and tastes clean, sweet, and milky. You can create your own particular style of fresh cheese by adjusting the time you drain the cheese and the thickness of your cheesecloth. You can even try cutting holes in a plastic or metal container to make a cheese mold and then fashioning a press to make a pressed cheese. When moist, this cheese is good for spreading and using as a dessert filling. Drain it longer, and it's perfect for pizza and pasta.

TIME REQUIRED: 10 minutes active; 1 hour mostly pa.s.sive, yet watchful 10 minutes active; 1 hour mostly pa.s.sive, yet watchful YIELD: about 1 pounds, depending on how much whey you drain out about 1 pounds, depending on how much whey you drain out 1 gallon whole milk (not ultra-pasteurized as you may have trouble curdling it)[image] cup white or apple cider vinegar, or cup freshly squeezed lemon juice cup white or apple cider vinegar, or cup freshly squeezed lemon juiceNon-iodized salt, such as kosher or cheese salt (optional; see Sources Sources) Pour the milk into a large nonreactive pot (stainless steel, ceramic, or enameled). Over medium-low heat, slowly bring up the milk temperature to 185 degrees F, stirring occasionally. Take your time, so you don't scorch the milk. Stir occasionally and watch closely. This can take 45 minutes or longer.

While you wait, ready two, four, or six layers of cheesecloth (the number of layers depends on how dry you want your cheese), folded into a square of about 18 inches on each side. Place the cheesecloth in a strainer. Fewer layers will make the cheese drain more quickly and yield a drier, crumblier cheese.

If you don't have an accurate thermometer, you can still make ricotta. The milk should be just short of boiling. Signs that the milk is almost ready include tiny bubbles on the sides of the pan and a shimmering, vibrating surface not yet broken by bubbles.

When the milk reaches the proper temperature, turn off the heat, pour in the vinegar and stir to distribute. Stop stirring and let the milk sit undisturbed for 5 to 8 minutes. You will see curds begin to form and separate from the whey. Using a slotted spoon or small, handheld strainer, spoon the curds out into the cheesecloth-lined strainer. It will look a little like wet biscuit dough. Work the cheese a little with a spoon to release some of the liquid. Tie the ends of the cheesecloth together so you have a bundle of cheese and hang it from a wooden spoon set across a big pot until it reaches the desired consistency (5 to 10 minutes). Reserve the whey for another use, transfer the cheese to a medium bowl, and season with salt, if desired. If using for desserts, you'll want to add little or no salt. Mold the cheese or put it in a container and cover. The cheese will keep, refrigerated, for 4 to 5 days.

What to do With Whey Don't dump it down the drain! It provides nourishment for indoor and outdoor plants, and has many culinary uses besides. It can be used to cook porridges or grains for salads, or to serve as a broth for soup or beans. You can also add it to smoothies or simply drink it over ice.

Marinated Fresh Cheese Here's another easy dish that ill.u.s.trates how tasty foods from a D.I.Y. kitchen can be. A few fresh herbs, finely chopped shallots, and some great olive oil can transform your homemade fresh cheese into an impressive appetizer. You could do the exact same thing with store-bought cheese and it would taste good; but with your own cheese, it's great. Just serve it in a small bowl with a spoon, accompanied by fresh bread, olives, and pickles; and it will disappear fast. You can also use the marinated cheese in pasta or on pizza.

TIME REQUIRED: 5 minutes active (excluding cheese preparation) 5 minutes active (excluding cheese preparation) YIELD: pound; 4 to 6 servings as an appetizer pound; 4 to 6 servings as an appetizer pound Fresh Whole-Milk Soft Cheese Fresh Whole-Milk Soft Cheese cup extra-virgin olive oil2 teaspoons chopped fresh parsley2 teaspoons chopped fresh mint2 teaspoons finely chopped shallot1 teaspoon snipped fresh chives teaspoon chopped fresh thyme Pinch of red pepper flakesSaltFreshly ground black pepper Put the cheese in a small bowl and add the oil, parsley, mint, shallot, chives, thyme, and red pepper flakes. Season with salt and pepper. Stir with a fork to crumble the cheese and distribute all the flavors. Serve immediately or cover and refrigerate for 1 or 2 days.

Savory Spinach-Cheese Pie with Olive Oil Crust A luxurious filling of spinach and sweet, milky Fresh Whole-Milk Soft Cheese encased in a crisp-tender olive oil crust makes for a special dish that will work as a light supper, a side dish, or a picnic item. For those who are intimidated by pastry crust or pie dough, this dough is easy to mix and roll out, bakes up beautifully, and won't give you any trouble at all. You can subst.i.tute chard or kale for the spinach if you like.

TIME REQUIRED: about 45 minutes active; 1 hour pa.s.sive (excluding cheese preparation) about 45 minutes active; 1 hour pa.s.sive (excluding cheese preparation) YIELD: 4 servings as a meal; 6 as a side dish 4 servings as a meal; 6 as a side dish OLIVE OIL CRUST2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour1 teaspoon kosher salt[image] cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing filling cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing fillingFILLING cup extra-virgin olive oil1 medium yellow onion, diced2 garlic cloves, finely chopped3 bunches spinach (about 1 pound), washedSalt cup chopped fresh dill pound Fresh Whole-Milk Soft Cheese Fresh Whole-Milk Soft CheeseFreshly ground black pepper Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.

To make the crust: In a medium bowl, mix together the flour and salt. Pour in the[image] cup olive oil and mix with a wooden spoon until the flour is moistened. Add cup olive oil and mix with a wooden spoon until the flour is moistened. Add[image] cup warm water and continue to stir. With your hands, knead the dough in the bowl for a few minutes until it comes together. The dough will be soft and elastic, but not sticky. Divide it into two equal portions, one slightly larger than the other, and set both aside while you prepare the filling. cup warm water and continue to stir. With your hands, knead the dough in the bowl for a few minutes until it comes together. The dough will be soft and elastic, but not sticky. Divide it into two equal portions, one slightly larger than the other, and set both aside while you prepare the filling.

To make the filling: In a large, heavy skillet or wok over medium heat, warm the olive oil. Add the onion and cook, stirring until soft and fragrant, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, until fragrant. Add the spinach and a few pinches of salt and stir until it is wilted and cooked down (you may need to add the greens gradually and let them cook down before adding more). Add the dill, stir, and continue to cook for 1 to 2 minutes, until fragrant. Transfer the spinach mixture to a colander set in the sink and drain for a few minutes, pushing down on it with the back of a wooden spoon to release excess moisture. Transfer the spinach mixture to a cutting board and chop coa.r.s.ely. Transfer it to a bowl, add the cheese, and mix together until well blended, seasoning with salt and pepper.

Select a 2-quart, 2-inch-deep baking dish of any shape. On a lightly floured surface, roll out one portion of dough in the shape of the baking dish, but slightly larger. Lay it carefully in the dish, stretching and shaping it with your hands if needed, so it comes up and over the sides of the dish. Transfer the spinach-ricotta mixture to the dish, distributing it evenly over the dough. Roll out the other piece of dough in the size and shape of the dish and place it carefully over the filling so it meets the edge of the dish, stretching and shaping if needed, and tr.i.m.m.i.n.g if it's too large. Pinch the edges to the edge of the dish to seal. Puncture the top of the crust with the tines of a fork in several places.

Transfer the pie to the oven and bake until it is brown and crisp all over, 50 minutes to 1 hour. Brush the top of the pie with oil about 15 minutes before the end of the cooking time. Cut and serve immediately or at room temperature. Cover any leftovers and refrigerate for up to 4 days, reheating in a low (250-degree-F) oven until hot.

Fresh Cheese Crepes [image]

The batter for these easy crepes is enriched with the sweet, b.u.t.tery homemade Fresh Whole-Milk Soft Cheese. They're great for desserts and savory preparations. For dessert, fill them with Plum-Verbena Jam Plum-Verbena Jam, fresh fruit, Mascarpone Cheese Mascarpone Cheese, or caramelized apples, or simply drizzle with honey or maple syrup and Creme Fraiche Creme Fraiche. For filling savory crepes, try cured or smoked meats and fish or roasted or grilled seasonal vegetables. If making a savory crepe, skip the sugar. You'll need waxed paper or oiled parchment to separate the finished crepes as you cook them.

TIME REQUIRED: about 30 minutes active; 20 minutes pa.s.sive (excluding cheese and b.u.t.ter preparation) about 30 minutes active; 20 minutes pa.s.sive (excluding cheese and b.u.t.ter preparation) YIELD: 8 or 9 crepes 8 or 9 crepes 1 cup whole milk[image] cup unbleached all-purpose flour cup unbleached all-purpose flour cup Fresh Whole-Milk Soft Cheese Fresh Whole-Milk Soft Cheese3 large eggs3 tablespoons Cultured b.u.t.ter Cultured b.u.t.ter or store-bought b.u.t.ter, melted, plus more for cooking or store-bought b.u.t.ter, melted, plus more for cooking1 tablespoon sugar (omit for savory crepes) teaspoon vanilla extractPinch of salt Put all of the ingredients in a blender and blend until well combined, about 2 minutes. Set aside for 20 minutes to allow the flour to absorb the liquid thoroughly.

Heat a crepe pan or an 8-inch nonstick pan with low, sloped sides over medium-high heat. Add about teaspoon b.u.t.ter. When the b.u.t.ter melts, use a spatula to distribute it evenly. Pour[image] cup batter into the pan and swirl quickly with a few flicks of the wrist before the batter fully sets, so that the batter covers the bottom of the pan entirely. Return to the heat and cook until the edges become brown and lacy, about 2 minutes. Flip, using a small spatula and your fingers, very carefully to avoid tearing, and cook until set on the second side, 15 to 20 seconds more. Stack the crepes between sheets of waxed paper while you finish cooking the remainder of the batter. Fill as desired and serve immediately. You can reheat them in a 250-degree-F oven wrapped in foil. Or wrap them well and store for 3 days in the refrigerator or up to 2 months in the freezer. cup batter into the pan and swirl quickly with a few flicks of the wrist before the batter fully sets, so that the batter covers the bottom of the pan entirely. Return to the heat and cook until the edges become brown and lacy, about 2 minutes. Flip, using a small spatula and your fingers, very carefully to avoid tearing, and cook until set on the second side, 15 to 20 seconds more. Stack the crepes between sheets of waxed paper while you finish cooking the remainder of the batter. Fill as desired and serve immediately. You can reheat them in a 250-degree-F oven wrapped in foil. Or wrap them well and store for 3 days in the refrigerator or up to 2 months in the freezer.

Fresh Pasta with Asparagus, Homemade Cheese, and Lemon [image]

This is such a wonderful way to enjoy spring asparagus and homemade cheese! The flavors and textures combine so well, you won't believe how simple it is to make. This recipe is one that represents the principles of the D.I.Y. kitchen perfectly. Store-bought pasta and store-bought ricotta would make a fine dish, but not transformative, as this is.

TIME REQUIRED: 15 minutes active (excluding b.u.t.ter, cheese, and pasta preparation) 15 minutes active (excluding b.u.t.ter, cheese, and pasta preparation) YIELD: 4 to 5 servings 4 to 5 servings 1 bunch (about pound) fresh, in-season medium asparagus2 tablespoons Cultured b.u.t.ter Cultured b.u.t.ter or store-bought b.u.t.ter, softened or store-bought b.u.t.ter, softened pound Fresh Whole-Milk Soft Cheese Fresh Whole-Milk Soft Cheese, drained to a moist, slightly crumbly texture3 tablespoons chopped mixed fresh herbs (parsley, mint, chervil, savory, marjoram-anything you like)1 lemon for zesting1 pound Fresh Pasta Fresh Pasta or store-bought whole-wheat fettuccini or store-bought whole-wheat fettucciniSaltFreshly ground black pepper Grasp one end of each asparagus spear in each hand and bend until it snaps at its natural breaking point. Discard (or compost) the lower fibrous ends. Cut the remaining parts of the spears into bite-sized pieces. In a vegetable steamer, steam the asparagus until tender but still vibrant green, 2 to 3 minutes. Submerge it in ice water to stop the cooking, drain, and pat dry. Set aside.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, put the softened b.u.t.ter in a bowl large enough to hold all the ingredients, and have the cheese, chopped herbs, and lemon ready, as this dish comes together quickly.

Add the fresh pasta to the boiling water and cook until it is tender but still chewy, 2 to 3 minutes (if using store-bought pasta, follow package instructions). Drain immediately, do not rinse, and add the pasta to the bowl with the b.u.t.ter. Toss to coat the pasta, and then add the cooked asparagus, cheese, and herbs to the hot pasta. Toss and season with salt and pepper. Transfer the pasta to plates. Using a Microplane, or the small holes of a cheese grater, grate lemon zest over each serving and top with a few grindings of fresh pepper. Serve immediately.

Creme Fraiche Creme Fraiche is a wonderfully easy dairy product to make yourself. It's perfect for beginners because success is virtually guaranteed. Making your own will save you a lot of money because store-bought creme fraiche is fantastically expensive. The basic technique is simple. Just warm up a little cream, culture it, and let it sit out at room temperature until thick. Creme fraiche is one of the more versatile items in the dairy world. Spoon a little over a creamy pureed vegetable soup like Artichoke Soup Artichoke Soup, drizzle it over Sourdough Buckwheat Pancakes with Caramelized Apples Sourdough Buckwheat Pancakes with Caramelized Apples, use it to top a fresh fruit cobbler, or simply dip fresh strawberries into it. Creme fraiche's other nifty trick is that it can be cooked without curdling. I like to use yogurt as the culturing agent because I generally have it around, but you could also use sour cream or b.u.t.termilk. Ultra-pasteurized cream doesn't culture properly because in pursuit of increased shelf life, it is superheated, which kills all desirable microorganisms.

TIME REQUIRED: 10 minutes active; 12 to 24 hours pa.s.sive 10 minutes active; 12 to 24 hours pa.s.sive YIELD: as desired as desired Fresh heavy cream (not ultra-pasteurized)1 tablespoon yogurt, b.u.t.termilk, or sour cream per cup of cream Pour the cream into a saucepan and turn the heat to low. Heat until slightly warmer than lukewarm (95 to 100 degrees F). Stir in the culturing agent and pour the mixture into a gla.s.s jar, such as a 1-quart mason jar. Fasten the lid and shake to blend. Leave it out in a warm area of your kitchen, such as near a pilot light or on top of the stove, for 12 to 24 hours. Check every 4 hours after the initial 8 hours to see if it has thickened. Remember that it will become even thicker after refrigeration. Taste it. It should taste tangy but not sour and it should smell clean, not funky. Once it is about the thickness of pancake batter, refrigerate it and use within 5 to 7 days.

Dairy Discovery Yogurt can be the mother culture for all the cultured dairy products in this book. If you use yogurt to make your Creme Fraiche, you can use that Creme Fraiche to create two other dairy products in this book. Whip it to make Cultured b.u.t.ter Cultured b.u.t.ter or drain it to make a tangy-style or drain it to make a tangy-style Mascarpone Cheese Mascarpone Cheese.

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