SERVES 4 4.

4 whole mackerel, scaled and gutted cup (1 stick) b.u.t.ter, softened to room temperature 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper 2 teaspoons sweet smoked paprika 1 teaspoon ground coriander 1 tablespoon sugar teaspoon dry English mustard 2 teaspoons red-or white-wine vinegar Horseradish potatoes: 1 pound small boiling potatoes, washed and halved if large 2 shallots, minced 2 tablespoons sour cream 2 tablespoons cream-style horseradish few sprigs of fresh dillweed, roughly chopped Tomato and fennel salad: 1 large fennel bulb 2 ripe plum or Roma tomatoes handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley, leaves roughly chopped few sprigs of fresh dillweed, roughly chopped teaspoon sugar juice of lemon 3 tablespoons olive oil

First, make the horseradish potatoes: Cook the potatoes (skin on) in boiling salted water until tender when pierced with a sharp knife, 1012 minutes. Drain and tip into a large bowl. Let cool slightly, then stir in the shallots, sour cream, and horseradish. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Finally, fold in the dill. Set aside to serve warm or at room temperature.

For the fennel salad, trim off the base of the fennel, then shave into very thin slices using a mandoline. Immerse the slices in a bowl of ice water and let crisp up for about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, cut the tomatoes into thin wedges. Put the tomatoes into a large bowl. Drain the fennel and add to the bowl along with the chopped herbs. Mix together the sugar, lemon juice, olive oil, and some seasoning for the dressing. Pour it over the tomatoes and fennel and mix well. Let the flavors infuse for 1015 minutes before serving.

Heat the broiler. Slash each mackerel on both sides, making the cuts every inch or so, then place in a baking dish. Mix all the remaining ingredients together in a bowl to make a thick spiced b.u.t.ter, seasoning well with salt and pepper. Rub the b.u.t.ter all over the mackerel, including inside the cavity. If the b.u.t.ter firms up on contact with the chilled fish and you find it difficult to spread, then slightly melt it in a saucepan and pour it over the fish instead.

Broil the mackerel, 45 inches from the heat source, until the fish is just firm and cooked through, 45 minutes on each side.

Serve immediately with the tomato and fennel salad and the horseradish potatoes.

Grilled scallop and shrimp brochettes with cilantro-chili b.u.t.ter These are lovely, and fun to eat with your fingers. Take care not to overcook the scallops and shrimp or they'll turn rubbery. The recipe makes more cilantro-chili b.u.t.ter than you need, but it keeps for about a week in the refrigerator and is also good with grilled meats and fish.

SERVES 4 4.

Scallop and shrimp brochettes: 23 tablespoons olive oil sprig of fresh rosemary, leaves minced small handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley, leaves chopped grated zest and juice of lemon 12 sea scallops 12 large raw shrimp, peeled and deveined Cilantro-chili b.u.t.ter: cup (1 stick) b.u.t.ter, softened to room temperature finely grated zest of 1 lemon 1 small, fresh, red chili pepper, deseeded and minced small handful of cilantro, leaves chopped 1 large garlic clove, finely crushed

First, prepare the cilantro-chili b.u.t.ter. Place all the ingredients in a bowl along with a generous seasoning of salt and pepper. Beat with a fork until well combined. Spoon the b.u.t.ter along the length of a large sheet of plastic wrap and roll up in the wrap to shape the b.u.t.ter into a log. Holding the sides of the wrap, roll the log on the work surface to even out the thickness. Refrigerate for a few hours until firm.

Soak 12 bamboo skewers in cold water for about 20 minutes. This will help to prevent them from burning too quickly during grilling.

Mix the olive oil, chopped herbs, and lemon zest and juice together in a bowl. Thread two scallops and two shrimp alternately on each soaked skewer, then brush with the lemon and herb marinade. Place the skewers on a tray, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 2030 minutes.

Prepare the barbecue or heat a cast-iron grill pan until hot. Season the scallops and shrimp with salt and pepper. Grill over coals or on the hot pan until the scallops and shrimp are opaque and lightly charred, 12 minutes on each side. During cooking, baste occasionally with any leftover marinade. Remove to a serving plate and top with slices of the cilantro-chili b.u.t.ter. Serve immediately.

meat and poultry While we may use expensive cuts of meat and poultry in the restaurants, at home I'm more interested in cooking with less popular cuts. It is more exciting and challenging to convert cheap cuts of meat or ordinary chicken legs into something appealing and scrumptious than it is to grill a filet mignon. The cheaper cuts usually require slow-cooking methods, such as poaching, braising, and stewing, to tenderize them. A long and gentle cooking process is also an opportunity to infuse the meat with extra flavor.

As you can see from this chapter, I sometimes like to add a sweet element to meat and poultry dishes. Fresh or dried fruit can help to cut the richness of the meat.

Poached rabbit legs with gremolata Pork tenderloin stroganoff Homemade bangers Cla.s.sic mixed grill Angus beef olives Chicken legs with braised peas and onions Goat curry Roast loin of pork with apple sauce Sweet potato and duck rosti with fried duck eggs Honey-roast ham Cider and honey roast leg of lamb Lamb shank ca.s.soulet Roast rib-eye with caramelized shallot and red wine gravy Lamb stew with bacon, sweet onions, and prunes Braised chicken legs with honey and five-spice Duck b.r.e.a.s.t.s with port and cherry sauce

Poached rabbit legs with gremolata Rabbit legs benefit from slow cooking, and this is also one of the simplest ways to cook them-gently poached in a light and delicate broth. For a deeper-flavored broth, use homemade chicken stock instead of water. You could also add chunks of potatoes or some pearl barley to bulk up the dish for a rustic one-pot meal. Serve with warm chunks of baguette or pain de campagne.

SERVES 4 4.

4 rabbit legs (hindquarters) 2 large carrots, cut into large chunks 1 Spanish or mild onion, roughly chopped 1 large leek, cut into large chunks 2 celery ribs, cut into large chunks head of garlic, cut horizontally handful of fresh thyme 1 bay leaf teaspoon black peppercorns teaspoon coriander seeds Gremolata: cup olive oil 2 garlic cloves, finely grated grated zest and juice of 1 lemon handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped

Season the rabbit legs well and put them in a cast-iron or other heavy-based ca.s.serole. Arrange the vegetables, garlic, herbs, and spices on top and fill with cold water to cover. Bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and place a lid on top. Gently simmer until the meat is tender and comes off the bone easily, 5060 minutes. Try not to overcook, or the meat will become quite dry.

To make the gremolata, mix the olive oil, garlic, lemon zest and juice, and chopped parsley together in a bowl. Season well with salt and pepper to taste.

When ready, remove the rabbit legs to a warm plate and let rest for a few minutes. Scoop the vegetables into warmed bowls. Pull the meat off the rabbit legs in large pieces, then divide among the bowls. Pour a ladleful of hot broth into each. Finally, spoon the gremolata over the rabbit legs and vegetables and serve immediately.Pork tenderloin stroganoff This is a lovely, unfussy dish to make for supper. Serve with b.u.t.tered pasta or fluffy steamed rice.

SERVES 4 4.

1 pound pork tenderloin 1 teaspoon sweet smoked paprika, plus an extra pinch 4 tablespoons olive oil 1 onion, finely sliced 2 garlic cloves, finely sliced 7 ounces cremini mushrooms, sliced (about 3 cups) splash of brandy cup sour cream or heavy cream squeeze of lemon juice handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley, leaves chopped

Trim off any fat or sinew from the pork tenderloin, then slice thinly. Season with salt, pepper, and 1 teaspoon of paprika.

Heat half of the olive oil in a wide frying pan until hot. Add the onion and fry over medium heat, stirring frequently, until soft and translucent, 68 minutes. Add the garlic and mushrooms and increase the heat slightly. Fry until the mushrooms are tender, 34 minutes. Tip the contents of the pan onto a plate and set aside.

Add the remaining oil to the pan and fry the pork over high heat until golden brown, 12 minutes. Return the onions, garlic, and mushrooms to the pan. Add a splash of brandy and let it boil, or flambe, until almost all reduced. Stir in the cream and bring to a gentle simmer. Adjust the seasoning with a little more salt, pepper, and a squeeze of lemon juice. Throw in the chopped parsley and remove the pan from the heat. Serve immediately, sprinkled with a pinch of paprika.

Homemade bangers I admit that it takes a bit of effort to make your own "bangers" (link sausages), but the flavor and texture are superlative. For the ground pork, I like to use an equal amount of fresh belly and shoulder or leg meat. As homemade bangers are free from preservatives, eat them as soon as they are made (or you can freeze them). Serve on a bed of mustard mash with onion gravy.

MAKES ABOUT 20 20.

sausage casings (enough to make 20 large link sausages) juice of lemon 1 large Spanish or mild onion, minced 3 large garlic cloves, minced 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra to fry the sausages 2 pounds ground pork 1 cup fresh bread crumbs, lightly toasted large handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley, leaves chopped handful of fresh lemon thyme, leaves stripped 6 large, fresh sage leaves, minced finely grated zest of 2 lemons 2 teaspoons fine sea salt 23 teaspoons cracked black peppercorns, to taste teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional)

First, rinse the casings under cold running water for 510 minutes (keep a good hold on the slippery things). Then let soak in a bowl of water with the lemon juice for about 30 minutes.

Sweat the onion and garlic in the olive oil with some seasoning until soft, 68 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl and let cool completely. Mix in the rest of the ingredients-it's probably easiest to use your hands to do this.

Drain the casings and squeeze out any excess water. Pat dry with paper towels. If you don't have a sausage-stuffer or stuffing tube on a meat grinder, push the end of a funnel (or a pastry bag fitted with a plain round tip) through one end of the casing and keep threading on the casing until you get to the other end, where you tie a knot. Now squeeze or push the filling through the casing, trying not to tear it along the way. Keep stuffing until you end up with a long coil. (You'll need another pair of hands to help with this.) Next, twist 4- to 5-inch lengths of the sausage in alternate directions to make individual sausages. Cut and separate the sausages just before cooking.

Gently fry the sausages in a lightly oiled nonstick pan for 1520 minutes, turning them occasionally. Use very low heat to ensure that the sausage remains succulent. Do not pierce the skins, because this would only let the juices to escape.

Cla.s.sic mixed grill The simplicity of a mixed grill makes it perfect for outdoor entertaining. All you need to complete the al fresco meal are a few large bowls of salads and some bread.

SERVES 68 68 12 homemade bangers (see Chapter 4) or good-quality fresh pork link sausages olive oil for brushing 12 large tomatoes, halved 12 cremini mushrooms, cleaned and stems removed 12 thick slices of lean bacon 1 pounds blood sausage (about 12 links) 12 small lamb chops, bone-in, about 4 ounces each 2 pounds boneless sirloin steak, about -inch thick, cut into 12 portions 12 lamb kidneys, halved few sprigs of watercress for garnish

Heat the oven to 350F. Put the bangers in a lightly oiled roasting pan and cook in the oven until they are golden and just cooked through, 1520 minutes, turning them over halfway. Set aside.

Prepare the barbecue.

First, cook the tomatoes and mushrooms: Place the tomatoes (cut-side up) and the mushrooms (gill-side up) on a lightly oiled baking sheet. Drizzle some olive oil over them and season well with salt and pepper. Place the baking sheet on the grill and cook until the tomatoes are just soft and the mushrooms are golden brown, 57 minutes, turning the vegetables over halfway through the cooking. Transfer to a large, warm platter and keep warm, preferably in a low oven, or simply covered with a piece of foil.

Place the bacon and bangers on the grill. Cook for 22 minutes on each side, turning them occasionally. Brush the blood sausages with a little oil, add to the grill, and cook for 23 minutes on each side. Remove them all to a large platter and keep warm.