Uncover the couscous and fork to fluff up the grains. Add the contents of the frying pan to the couscous and mix well. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Finally, stir through the chopped mint. Serve warm.

Linguine with lemon, feta, and basil The light and zesty flavor of this pasta dish makes it ideal for the summer. It's also quick and easy for supper during the week, because you are likely to have the ingredients on hand.

SERVES 4 4.

1 pound fresh (or 10 ounces dried) linguine cup olive oil grated zest and juice of 1 lemon 1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan cup freshly grated Parmesan handful of fresh basil, leaves only 7 ounces feta cheese, crumbled 2 tablespoons toasted pine nuts

Cook the fresh pasta in a large pot of salted boiling water for 2 minutes. If using dried pasta, cook according to package directions until al dente. Tip the pasta into a colander, leaving about 2 tablespoons of the cooking water in the pot.

Immediately return the pasta to the pot and add the olive oil, lemon zest and juice, Parmesan, basil, and three-quarters of the crumbled feta. Toss well and check the seasoning. Divide among warm plates and scatter the remaining feta and the pine nuts over the top. Serve at once.

Smoked haddock with white beans and parsley A little bacon enhances the flavor of smoked fish in this surf-and-turf combination. If you cannot find smoked haddock, you can subst.i.tute other smoked white fish.

SERVES 4 4.

White beans and parsley: 4 cups soaked dried white beans (cannellini or navy) 3 thick slices of lean bacon, roughly chopped few sprigs of fresh thyme head of garlic, cut horizontally handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley, leaves chopped Smoked haddock: 2 thick slices of lean bacon, chopped 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 skinless fillets of smoked haddock, about 1 pounds in total 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, cut in pieces few sprigs of fresh thyme handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley, leaves only

Put the beans, bacon, thyme, and garlic in a pan and add water to cover. Bring to a boil and boil until the beans are soft, 11 hours. Use a slotted spoon to transfer half the beans to a blender. Add a ladleful or two of the cooking liquid and blitz to a fine puree. Transfer the puree to a clean saucepan. Drain the remaining beans, reserving the cooking liquid, and add to the puree. Remove and discard the bacon, thyme stems, and garlic. Stir to mix the beans with the puree, adding a little more cooking liquid if the mixture is too thick. Keep warm.

For the smoked haddock, fry the bacon in half the oil until crisp. Drain on paper towels.

Heat another frying pan with the remaining oil until hot. Add the haddock fillets to the pan and fry for a minute. Add the b.u.t.ter, then throw in the thyme sprigs and parsley leaves. As the b.u.t.ter melts and foams, spoon it over the fish to baste. Fry until the fish is just cooked through, 12 minutes longer. Remove from the heat and transfer to a warm plate, reserving the excess b.u.t.ter and oil. Let the fish rest for a couple of minutes.

Meanwhile, reheat the beans if necessary, and stir through the chopped parsley. Season to taste with black pepper. (You probably won't need salt because of the bacon and haddock.) Spoon the beans onto warm plates and lay the smoked haddock fillets on top. Add the crisp bacon and a little oil and b.u.t.ter from the pan in which you cooked the fish. Garnish with parsley leaves and serve.

Gordon's posh kedgeree I've cooked many versions of Anglo-Indian kedgeree in my life. This is the one I make when we have guests staying over the weekend. It makes a great Sat.u.r.day or Sunday brunch-rice is ideal if you have a hangover.

SERVES 46 46 2 cups chicken or fish stock (see Chapter 9) few sprigs of fresh thyme pinch of saffron strands 9 ounces skinless, lightly smoked salmon fillet 7 ounces large raw shrimp, peeled and deveined 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 large shallots, minced 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, cut in pieces 1 teaspoon mild curry powder 2 cups basmati rice 12 quail eggs, at room temperature handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley, leaves chopped lemon wedges for garnish

Put the stock, thyme, saffron, and a little salt and pepper into a saucepan. Bring to a simmer, then gently lower the salmon fillet into the stock and poach for 4 minutes. Lift the fish out with a slotted spatula onto a warm plate. Add the shrimp to the stock and poach just until they turn firm and opaque, about 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the shrimp to the plate of salmon. Cover with foil and keep warm.

Strain the stock and discard the thyme; set aside. Return the pan to the heat and add the olive oil, shallots, and some seasoning. Fry, stirring occasionally, until the shallots are soft but not browned, 46 minutes. Add the b.u.t.ter and curry powder. Cook, stirring, for 2 minutes, then tip in the rice. Stir and cook for 2 minutes longer, to toast the rice lightly.

Add a generous seasoning of salt and pepper and pour in the stock. Stir and bring to a simmer. Cover the pan with a lid and let simmer for 10 minutes. Without lifting the lid, remove the pan from the heat and let the rice stand for 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, cook the quail eggs in boiling water for 3 minutes. Drain and refresh under cold running water. Crack and peel off the skins, then cut each egg in half.

Fluff the rice with a fork to separate the grains, then taste and adjust the seasoning, adding a bit more b.u.t.ter if you wish. Break the salmon fillet into large flakes and add to the rice, along with the shrimp and most of the chopped parsley. Gently mix the ingredients through the rice. Pile onto warm plates and garnish with the quail eggs, remaining parsley, and lemon wedges. Serve at once.

Spinach, mushroom, and ricotta cannelloni Like the grilled vegetable lasagne on Chapter 2, this is another delicious dish that's definitely not just for vegetarians. It can be prepared in advance, and then put into the oven about 20 minutes before you're ready to eat.

SERVES 6 6.

10 ounces fresh lasagne sheets (about 12) 23 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan Cheese sauce: 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon English mustard pinch of cayenne pepper 1 cups milk cup grated Cheddar 2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan 1 cup creme fraiche or heavy cream Filling: 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter 14 ounces spinach leaves, washed nutmeg for grating 23 tablespoons olive oil 1 pound cremini mushrooms, sliced 2 cups ricotta 2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan

First, prepare the sauce. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a saucepan and stir in the flour, mustard, and cayenne. Stir over low heat for 23 minutes. Slowly whisk in the milk until smooth. Simmer, stirring, for 5 minutes to cook out the flour. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the cheeses until they have melted and the sauce is smooth. Transfer to a bowl and let cool. Once cooled, stir in the creme fraiche. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

To prepare the filling, melt the b.u.t.ter in a pan and add the spinach, some seasoning, and a light grating of nutmeg. Cook over high heat until the spinach has wilted, then tip into a colander set over a large bowl and let cool. Return the pan to the heat and add the olive oil, mushrooms, and some seasoning. Saute the mushrooms until tender and any juices released have evaporated, 34 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl and let cool. Give the spinach a light squeeze to remove excess moisture and add to the mushrooms. Stir in the ricotta and Parmesan. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

Roll the cannelloni one at a time: Place a lasagne sheet on a cutting board. Spoon 2 tablespoons of filling along one end, leaving a bit of s.p.a.ce at both edges, and roll up. Place on a tray, joined-side down. Repeat with the remaining pasta and filling.

Preheat the oven to 425F. Spread half the cheese sauce over the bottom of a large baking dish and arrange the cannelloni in a single layer on top. Spread the remaining sauce over the cannelloni to cover, then sprinkle with the Parmesan. Bake until the topping is golden brown, 1520 minutes. Bring to the table and serve at once.

Goat cheese, beet, and lentil salad Baking beets in a salt crust intensifies the flavor. This salad combines sweet roasted beets with earthy lentils and creamy goat cheese. The marinated beet slices are optional, but they do add to the beauty of the salad.

SERVES 4 4.

Baked beets: 1 pound red or mixed beets of similar size rock salt or coa.r.s.e sea salt leaves stripped from a few sprigs of fresh thyme Lentils: cup Umbrian castelluccio or Puy lentils, rinsed and drained cup chopped lean bacon 1 carrot 2 celery ribs few sprigs of fresh thyme Marinated beets (optional): 2 baby beets, preferably Chioggia or candy cane variety 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar For serving: handful of mixed salad leaves handful each of fresh flat-leaf parsley and mint, leaves chopped 7 ounces goat cheese, crumbled or chopped

Preheat the oven to 350F. Wash and dry the beets, then trim off the tops. Spread a thin layer of rock salt on a large piece of foil. Scatter on the thyme leaves and put the beets in the middle. Bring up the edges of the foil to seal in the beets and salt. Bake until tender when pierced with a small sharp knife, 3040 minutes.

Prepare the lentils by putting all the ingredients in a pan with enough water to cover by 2 inches. Bring to a simmer and cook until the lentils are tender, 1520 minutes. When cooked, drain the lentils. Discard the bacon, vegetables, and thyme sprigs.

Meanwhile, if making the marinated beets, peel them and thinly slice with a mandoline. Place in a bowl. Drizzle the olive oil and balsamic vinegar over the beet slices and season. Let marinate in the refrigerator for at least 1520 minutes.

Unwrap the beet parcel and let some of the heat disperse. While the beets are still warm, peel using a small knife (wear rubber gloves to avoid staining your hands). Cut into quarters. Divide the baked beets and lentils among individual serving plates. Garnish each plate with marinated beet slices, if using, and add salad leaves, herbs, and goat cheese.

Wild mushroom-barley risotto Pearl barley adds a nutty flavor to this risotto, and it provides an interesting base for wild mushrooms. Barley is very easy to cook with-not as high-maintenance as risotto rice-because you can leave it to simmer without needing to stir it constantly.

SERVES 4 4.

14 ounces wild mushrooms (such as cepes or porcini, trompettes de la mort, and chanterelles) 3 cups chicken or vegetable stock (see Chapter 9) 1 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 onion, minced 1 cup pearl barley splash of dry white wine cup freshly grated Parmesan 2 tablespoons mascarpone handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley, leaves minced

Clean the mushrooms and thickly slice the large ones. Set aside while you start the risotto.

Bring the stock to a gentle simmer in a medium saucepan. Meanwhile, heat the b.u.t.ter and a tablespoon of olive oil in a large saucepan or saute pan and add the onion and a little seasoning. Gently fry the onion, stirring occasionally, until it begins to soften, 46 minutes. Tip in the barley and stir well to coat. Toast the barley for 2 minutes, stirring frequently.

Add the splash of wine and let it bubble until reduced by half. Stir in two-thirds of the hot stock and simmer, stirring every once in a while, until the barley has absorbed almost all the liquid. Add more stock, a ladleful at a time, and simmer until the barley is just tender. (You may not need all the stock.) Stir in the Parmesan and mascarpone and season well to taste. Remove the pan from the heat and cover with a lid to keep warm.

Heat the remaining oil in a large frying pan. Fry the mushrooms with some seasoning until they are lightly browned and any moisture released has evaporated, 34 minutes. Add the mushrooms to the risotto and stir well to mix.