Cornish crab soup This crab soup instantly transports me to lovely vacations by the coast in Cornwall, in the southwest of England. It may seem like a lot of effort to pick the meat from the crabs and use the sh.e.l.ls to make your own stock, but trust me, the results are well worth it.

SERVES 4 4.

1 or more cooked crabs, depending on type, 34 pounds in total 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 onion, minced 1 large carrot, minced 2 celery ribs, minced 1 large garlic clove, sliced 1 lemongra.s.s stalk, roughly chopped 1 tablespoon tomato paste splash of brandy or Cognac scant 1 cup Noilly Prat or dry white wine 3 plum or Roma tomatoes, chopped sprig each of fresh basil, tarragon, and parsley 34 tablespoons creme fraiche handful of cilantro leaves for garnish

Remove the meat from the crab bodies, legs, and claws (be sure to discard the small spongy sac and furry gray gills that are known as dead man's fingers). Use the back of a Chinese cleaver, a strong chef's knife, or a pestle to break up the crab sh.e.l.ls into small pieces. Place them in a large bowl.

Now make the crab stock: Heat the oil in a large pot and add the onion, carrot, celery, garlic, and lemongra.s.s. Stir over high heat until the vegetables are golden and beginning to soften, 46 minutes. Add the crab sh.e.l.ls, tomato paste, and a splash of brandy or Cognac and stir well. Fry for 45 minutes longer, stirring frequently. Add the Noilly Prat and boil for a few minutes until reduced by two-thirds. Pour in enough water to cover (about 3 cups) and bring to a simmer. Skim off any sc.u.m or froth from the surface of the liquid, then add the tomatoes and herbs. Simmer for 20 minutes.

Strain the stock through a fine sieve into a clean pot. Discard the sh.e.l.ls and vegetables. Bring the stock to a boil and let it bubble vigorously until reduced by a third, to about 2 cups. Stir in a few tablespoons of creme fraiche and season well to taste.

Spoon the crabmeat into the center of warmed bowls and pour the piping hot soup around. (You could also add the crabmeat to the gently simmering soup to warm through before serving.) Garnish with cilantro leaves and serve.Oxtail soup Oxtail is still a relatively cheap cut, and the gelatinous nature of the meat makes it ideal for soups and stews. I remember it as one of my favorite soups when I was growing up, and I think it's a shame this warming and delicious soup isn't as popular as it used to be.

SERVES 4 4.

1 oxtail, about 3 pounds, disjointed 4 tablespoons all-purpose flour 23 tablespoons olive oil 1 large carrot, roughly chopped 1 turnip, roughly chopped 1 celery rib, roughly chopped 1 large onion, roughly chopped 1 bay leaf few sprigs of fresh thyme 1 teaspoon black peppercorns 2 teaspoons tomato paste 1 cups red wine 5 cups hot beef stock (see Chapter 9) 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, softened handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley, leaves chopped

Trim off any excess fat from the oxtail pieces. In a shallow bowl, mix 2 tablespoons of the flour with some salt and pepper. Heat half the oil in a large, heavy-based or cast-iron pot until hot. Coat the oxtail pieces with the seasoned flour, shaking off any excess, and fry until evenly browned all over, 22 minutes on each side. Remove the oxtail to a plate and set aside.

Add the remaining oil to the pot along with the chopped vegetables, herbs, and peppercorns. Cook until the vegetables begin to soften, 45 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and remaining seasoned flour, adding a little more oil as necessary. Cook for 12 minutes, stirring frequently.

Pour in the red wine and sc.r.a.pe the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon to dislodge the sediment. Boil for a few minutes. Return the oxtail to the pot and pour in the stock to cover. Bring to a simmer and skim off any sc.u.m that rises to the surface. Partially cover the pot and cook gently until the oxtail meat is very tender and comes off the bone easily, about 3 hours. With a pair of kitchen tongs, lift out the oxtail pieces to a large bowl and let cool slightly.

Strain the soup through a fine sieve into a clean pot, pushing down on the vegetables with the back of a ladle to extract as much liquid as possible. To thicken the soup, mix the remaining 2 tablespoons of flour with the b.u.t.ter, then whisk into the simmering soup a little at a time. Simmer for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, pull the meat from the oxtail bones and shred into small pieces. Taste and adjust the seasoning of the soup, then add the shredded meat to warm through. Sprinkle with parsley before serving.

Summer soup Most summer soups are served smooth and creamy, and usually cold, but I like some to be rustic-chunky vegetables in a light broth. If you decide to puree the soup, mix in some heavy cream after blending, to add richness and to give a silky texture.

SERVES 46 46 cup olive oil 2 small onions, chopped into -inch dice 2 large potatoes, about 1 pound in total, chopped into -inch dice (about 3 cups) 8 ounces zucchini, chopped into -inch dice (about 2 cups) leaves stripped from a few sprigs of fresh thyme 4 cups hot vegetable or chicken stock (see Chapter 9) 1 head of romaine, finely shredded handful each of fresh mint and flat-leaf parsley, leaves chopped

Heat a large pot with the oil and add the onions and potatoes. Cook over medium heat for 45 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the zucchini, thyme leaves, and some salt and pepper and cook for a couple of minutes longer.

Pour in the stock and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Add the lettuce and remove from the heat as soon as the lettuce has wilted. Scatter half of the chopped herbs over the soup. Ladle into warm bowls and garnish with the remaining chopped herbs.

Crayfish chowder Crayfish (or crawfish as they are known in the southern U.S.) are delicious in salads, in rice and pasta dishes, and in soups, such as this New England-style chowder. Although you can buy cooked and sh.e.l.led crayfish tails, you will miss out on the flavor from the sh.e.l.ls and heads. So buy whole crayfish (frozen ones if you are too squeamish to cook them alive). This chowder is quite substantial. With sourdough bread and a light salad, it will make a good, satisfying lunch.

SERVES 4 4.

Crayfish stock: 34 pounds live crayfish 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 onion, chopped 1 carrot, chopped 1 celery rib, chopped 2 bay leaves few sprigs of fresh thyme 2 tablespoons tomato paste 1 cup dry white wine 1 plum or Roma tomato, chopped Chowder: 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 1 leek, minced 1 carrot, minced 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 potato, finely diced 1 cup corn kernels, thawed if frozen squeeze of lemon juice, to taste cup creme fraiche for serving (optional) handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley, leaves chopped

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Cook the crayfish in two batches: Add half to the pot and bring the water back to a boil. Cook for 3 minutes, then remove with tongs and drop into a large bowl of ice water. Repeat with the remaining crayfish.

Drain the crayfish and remove the meat: First, pull out the claws. Snip the sh.e.l.l underneath the tail with kitchen scissors, take out the tail meat, and set aside. If you have the time and patience, crack the claws and extract the small pieces of meat. Set aside with the meat from the tails. Place the heads and sh.e.l.ls in a large bowl and bash them with a pestle or the end of a rolling pin to break them into smaller pieces.

Pour the water from the pot, then heat the oil in it. Stir in the onion, carrot, celery, and herbs. Cook over high heat until the vegetables are lightly browned, 46 minutes. Add the tomato paste and crayfish sh.e.l.ls. Stir over high heat for 45 minutes.

Pour in the white wine and boil until it has almost all evaporated and the pot is quite dry. Add the chopped tomato and pour in enough water to cover the sh.e.l.ls. Bring to a simmer and cook gently for 1520 minutes. When ready, strain the stock through a fine sieve into a clean pot and discard the sh.e.l.ls and vegetables. Boil the stock until reduced to about 3 cups.

For the chowder, melt the b.u.t.ter in a large pot and stir in the leek, carrot, and a little salt and pepper. Saute over medium heat until the vegetables begin to soften, 46 minutes. Add the flour and cook for a couple of minutes longer, stirring frequently. Pour in the crayfish stock and tip in the potatoes. Simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 5 minutes. Add the corn and cook until tender, 23 minutes.

Adjust the seasoning, adding a little lemon juice to taste. Add the crayfish meat to the soup and heat for a few minutes to warm through. Ladle into warm bowls and serve immediately, garnished with a dollop of creme fraiche and a sprinkling of chopped parsley.

Baked potato soup with sour cream This soup was inspired by one I had many years ago at the acclaimed El Bulli restaurant in Spain. The clear broth is infused with the flavor of baked potatoes and served with homemade potato gnocchi: a surprising and delightful mouthful of flavors and textures.

SERVES 46 46 AS A FIRST COURSE AS A FIRST COURSE 4 large baking potatoes, about 1 pounds in total, scrubbed and dried 3 cups clear chicken or vegetable stock (see Chapter 9) 2/3 cup sour cream cup sour cream handful of fresh chives, minced Gnocchi: 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon fine sea salt 2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for drizzling 1 large egg, lightly beaten

Preheat the oven to 350F. Wrap the potatoes in a large sheet of foil. Bake until tender when pierced with a skewer, about 1 hours. Remove from the oven and turn down the heat to 300F. Wearing rubber gloves to protect your hands, peel the skins off the potatoes while still hot. Spread the skins out on a baking sheet and bake until dry and crisp, 1520 minutes. Turn off the oven, but leave the skins inside to continue drying.

Meanwhile, make the gnocchi. Mash the potatoes using a potato ricer, then spread out on a sheet pan lined with parchment paper and let cool completely. You need 14 ounces or about 2 heaped cups (save the rest for another dish). Mix in the flour, salt, Parmesan, and olive oil. Slowly incorporate the egg until the mixture comes together to form a dough; you may not need all the egg. Lightly knead the dough on a floured surface until smooth. Divide into four b.a.l.l.s. Roll each ball into a long sausage about inch thick. Cut into -inch pieces. Roll each piece lightly between your palms to neaten the shape (you don't have to make perfect rounds).

Bring a pot of salted water to a boil and have ready a bowl of ice water. Blanch the gnocchi in batches until they float to the surface, 23 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and immediately plunge into the ice water. Drain well, then toss in a bowl with a generous drizzle of olive oil and some seasoning.

For the soup, bring the stock to a boil in a pot with a little salt and pepper. Tip in the crisp potato skins. Cover the pot and gently simmer until the skins have imparted their color and flavor to the stock, 3040 minutes. Strain through a fine sieve into a clean pot. Discard the skins. When ready to serve, reheat the gnocchi in the potato-infused broth and simmer for a minute. Divide among warm bowls and garnish with spoonfuls of sour cream and minced chives.Creamy sorrel soup There is no match for the distinctive zesty and peppery flavor of sorrel. I cook with it as much as possible when it is in season. This soup is one of my favorites, and is equally delicious hot or cold. Make sure the stock is piping hot when you add the sorrel to the pan so that the leaves wilt quickly and you retain their vibrant green color.

SERVES 4 4.

2 large bunches of sorrel, 56 ounces in total, washed 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 large Spanish or mild onion, chopped 2 cups peeled and finely diced potatoes 3 cups hot chicken or vegetable stock (see Chapter 9) 2/3 cup sour cream cup sour cream handful of red-vein sorrel leaves for garnish (optional)

Roughly chop the sorrel and set aside. Heat the oil in a pot and add the onion, potatoes, and some seasoning. Stir well and cover the pot with a lid. Cook over medium to low heat for 10 minutes, lifting the lid every once in a while to give the vegetables a stir.

When the potatoes are soft, pour in the hot stock and boil for a few minutes. Tip in the sorrel. As soon as the leaves begin to wilt, immediately remove the pot from the heat. In two batches, transfer the soup to a blender and blitz until very smooth. (Hold a dish towel over the lid of the blender to protect your hands from any hot soup that might splash out.)

Stir in half of the sour cream and reheat the soup, if necessary. Pour into warm bowls and garnish with the remaining sour cream and, if you wish, some red-vein sorrel.

pasta and grains Tana has begun to feed the kids a vegetarian meal once a week, which means being creative in combining beans and other legumes, grains, and pasta with a variety of vegetables. The kids love it when she experiments. When the weather is cold we use a lot of pearl barley, adding it to soups, stews, and winter salads. Barley can even take the place of rice in a risotto. The excellent barley risotto here has featured many a time on our restaurant menus.

My love affair with pasta stems from the time I spent in Sicily and Sardinia as a young chef. When I finally returned to London and opened Aubergine back in October, 1993, I was determined to include handmade pasta on the menu. Fresh pasta can be mind-blowing, and any young chef joining our brigade had to master the art of making it. It is a fundamental skill in our kitchens.

Farfalle with bacon, peas, and sage Fresh tagliatelle with Stilton and mushrooms Grilled vegetable lasagne Conchiglie with meaty tomato ragu Penne with baked pumpkin and rosemary Spaghetti with broccoli, garlic, and chili Chorizo, fava bean, and mint couscous Linguine with lemon, feta, and basil Smoked haddock with white beans and parsley Gordon's posh kedgeree Spinach, mushroom, and ricotta cannelloni Goat cheese, beet, and lentil salad Wild mushroom-barley risotto Herby rice pilaf with pistachios and almonds

Farfalle with bacon, peas, and sage This is an easy version of pasta carbonara, without any egg yolks, so there is no chance of the sauce splitting. My kids must have this for supper once a week-they love it!

SERVES 4 4.