When cooked, drain the potatoes in a colander and let cool slightly. If you wish, peel off the skins using a small knife (wear rubber gloves to protect your hands). Put the potatoes into a large bowl and, while still warm, toss with the dressing to coat. Stir in the peas and fava beans. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Garnish with a few dill sprigs and serve.

Grilled eggplant with balsamic, feta, and mint Although you can pan-grill the eggplant on a ridged cast-iron grill pan, I like to grill the slices over hot coals, where they take on a lovely smoky quality. However, if you prefer to pan-grill, add a little sweet paprika to the olive oil and brush this over the eggplant slices to give them a smoky flavor.

SERVES 45 45 2 medium eggplants cup olive oil, plus extra for drizzling 1 fat garlic clove, minced 1 heaped cup cherry tomatoes, halved 4 ounces feta cheese, crumbled good-quality aged balsamic vinegar for drizzling small handful of fresh mint, leaves chopped

Prepare the barbecue. Trim and thinly slice the eggplants. Mix the olive oil with the minced garlic and some seasoning in a small bowl. Brush the oil on both sides of the eggplant slices, then grill them until tender, about 2 minutes on each side.

Overlap the grilled eggplant slices on a platter and scatter the cherry tomatoes and feta cheese over them. Drizzle on a little balsamic vinegar and finish off with a generous grinding of black pepper and a sprinkling of chopped mint.

Mixed mushroom salad The earthy flavor of wild mushrooms is unbeatable. When they are not in season, use a mixture of shiitake, oyster, portabello, and/or cremini mushrooms.

SERVES 4 4.

2 shallots, thinly sliced 1 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for drizzling 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 1 pounds mixed mushrooms (see above), thinly sliced squeeze of lemon juice 12 tablespoons walnut oil large handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley, leaves roughly chopped 4 ounces small arugula or mixed salad leaves

Place a wide frying pan over medium heat. Saute the shallots in the olive oil until soft, 46 minutes. Add the b.u.t.ter to melt. As it begins to foam, add the mushrooms and some salt and pepper. Toss over high heat until the mushrooms are lightly browned and any liquid released has evaporated, 23 minutes.

Tip the sauteed mushrooms and shallots into a bowl. Squeeze a little lemon juice over them and drizzle on the walnut oil. Add the chopped parsley and season to taste.

Just before serving, toss the arugula or salad leaves with a little lemon juice and olive oil, then place neat piles on each serving plate. Divide the mushrooms among the plates and serve.

Braised red cabbage with apple This gorgeous braised cabbage, which features again and again on our restaurant menus, is a fantastic accompaniment to game or other rich red meat. It keeps well in the refrigerator for about a week.

SERVES 4 4.

1 small head of red cabbage, about 1 pounds 1 large baking or other tart apple 2/3 cup b.u.t.ter cup b.u.t.ter cup packed light brown sugar 2/3 cup cider vinegar or clear malt vinegar cup cider vinegar or clear malt vinegar 2 cinnamon sticks teaspoon ground cloves

Preheat the oven to 350F. Quarter, core, and finely shred the cabbage. Peel, core, and thickly slice the apple. Set aside.

Put the b.u.t.ter, sugar, and vinegar in a stovetop-to-oven ca.s.serole and stir over medium heat until the sugar has dissolved. Add the cinnamon, cloves, and a seasoning of salt and pepper. Tip in the cabbage and apple and toss well to coat. Put a wet, crumpled piece of parchment paper on top and transfer the pan to the oven.

Braise until tender, about 1 hours. Every 30 minutes during the cooking, carefully lift the parchment paper and give the mixture a stir, dampening the paper again each time to prevent it from burning.

Remove the paper and continue braising, stirring after 10 minutes, until the cabbage is tender and the liquid in the pan has reduced to a syrupy glaze, 1520 minutes longer.

Pickled onions There's nothing quite like homemade pickled onions! Be sure to use canning jars with two-piece screwband lids, and for longer storage, process in a simmering hot-water bath.

MAKES 1 1 POUND POUND.

1 cups coa.r.s.e pickling salt 1 pound pearl or boiling onions 3 cups malt vinegar 1 cup cider vinegar 2 teaspoons each of coriander seeds, mustard seeds, whole allspice, black peppercorns, and mace 2 bay leaves 1-ounce piece of fresh ginger, bruised 1 tablespoon sugar

First, make a brine. Put the salt and 2 cups water in a saucepan and stir over low heat until fully dissolved. Pour into a large bowl and let cool completely.

Meanwhile, peel the onions. (It will be easier to remove the skins if you quickly blanch the onions in boiling water for 30 seconds, then refresh in cold water and drain well.) Add the peeled onions to the brine. Place a plate on top to keep them submerged in the liquid. Let soak in a cool part of the kitchen, or the refrigerator, for 24 hours.

Put the vinegars, dried spices, bay leaves, and ginger into a nonreactive pot (such as stainless steel or enameled) with the sugar. Boil for 2025 minutes, then strain the vinegar through a fine sieve and discard the flavorings. Let cool completely.

Rinse the onions and drain well. Divide them among sterilized jars, pour in the pickling liquid to cover, and seal the jars tightly. Leave the onions to pickle in a cool, dark place for at least 2 weeks before eating. Refrigerate after opening.

Piccalilli This mustardy pickled vegetable relish is the ultimate accompaniment to a raised game pie (see Chapter 5 for recipe) or cold meat terrine. If you can't find fresh pearl onions, you can use small boiling onions or shallots.

MAKES ABOUT 6 6 CUPS CUPS.

3 tablespoons pickling salt 1 pound pearl onions, peeled 1 small head of cauliflower, about 1 pound, cut into small florets cup sugar 2 cups cider vinegar 2 tablespoons cornstarch 2 tablespoons English mustard powder 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoons ground ginger 1 tablespoons ground turmeric

Dissolve the salt in 4 cups of warm water in a large bowl. Add the onions and cauliflower and place a plate on top to keep the vegetables submerged in the brine. Let soak in a cool part of the kitchen, or in the refrigerator, overnight. Next day, drain the vegetables and rinse under cold running water. Drain well.

Dissolve the sugar in the vinegar in a nonreactive pot over low heat, then boil until reduced by half, 1520 minutes. Add 1 cups water, then bring back to a boil. Mix the cornstarch and mustard powder together, then stir in several tablespoons of the reduced vinegar to make a smooth paste. Whisk this back into the rest of the vinegar.

Heat the oil in a large, nonreactive saucepan and gently fry the ginger and turmeric for 12 minutes. Lower the heat, then gradually add the reduced vinegar mixture, stirring as you pour. Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook until it starts to thicken and coats the back of your spoon, 23 minutes.

Add the vegetables to the pan, bring to a boil, and simmer until the cauliflower has softened and the onions are crisp-tender, about 3 minutes. Add a little salt and pepper to taste. Spoon into sterilized jars and seal. Store in a dark, cool place for 1 month before eating. The flavor improves the longer you keep the piccalilli (for longer storage, process the jars of piccalilli in a simmering hot-water bath). Refrigerate after opening.

desserts and ices Nostalgia is a powerful emotion when it comes to food. Or perhaps I should say that food is a powerful evoker of nostalgia. My work takes me around the world to countries with fascinating and delicious cuisines, but as soon as I reach home, I develop a craving for old-fashioned British desserts.

That traditional desserts are enjoying a revival is clear from the success of my pub menus. Apple pies, rice puddings, and lemon meringue pies always sell out. In many cases, we've updated cla.s.sic recipes, adding a little stem ginger to fruit crumbles and using luscious and creamy lemon tarts as the base for lemon meringue pies. Some recipes, however, I prefer unmodified: my mother's Bakewell tart, for example.

Pear and frangipane tart Autumn fruit salad with thyme and ginger Strawberry and champagne granita Caramelized apple pie Summer berry trifle Peach, raspberry, and ginger crumble Baked gooseberries with honey and almonds Fig ice cream Cinnamon rice pudding with apricot compote Custard tart Lemon meringue tart Bakewell tart Poached rhubarb with ginger ice cream Mixed berry tartlets with vanilla and peach cream Blackberry sorbet with shortbread fingers

Pear and frangipane tart This beautiful and delicious tart is-by a piece of good fortune-quick and easy to make. What could be better? It can be served warm or at room temperature, and is ideal for a lavish picnic.

SERVES 46 46 Tart: 10 ounces puff pastry (see introductory note on Chapter 5), thawed if frozen 1 egg yolk, beaten with 2 teaspoons water, for egg wash 2 large, or 3 medium, ripe pears Sugar syrup: cup granulated sugar cup water 1 cinnamon stick 2 star anise juice of 1 lemon Frangipane: 6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, softened to room temperature 2/3 cup confectioners' sugar, plus extra for dusting cup confectioners' sugar, plus extra for dusting 1 large egg, lightly beaten cup ground almonds 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 teaspoons Amaretto

Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured surface to about 1 1/8-inch thickness and cut out a neat 8-inch-diameter circle. Transfer to a baking sheet, then lightly score a -inch border all around. Brush the border with the egg wash to glaze, then let the pastry rest in the refrigerator while you prepare the filling.

Place all the ingredients for the sugar syrup in a small saucepan and stir over low heat until the sugar has dissolved. Increase the heat and simmer until thickened slightly, about 10 minutes. Let cool.

Meanwhile, beat together the b.u.t.ter and sugar for the frangipane. Slowly add the egg, mixing until fully incorporated. Add the almonds and flour and fold through. Finally, mix in the Amaretto. Let the mixture stand for 5 minutes.

Peel the pears, then cut each in half lengthwise. Remove the cores with a small spoon or a melon baller and discard. Cut each pear lengthwise into thin slices and place in a large bowl. Pour the cooled sugar syrup over the pears. Let macerate for a few minutes while you preheat the oven to 375F. (It is best not to use a convection oven for this recipe.)