a, reconstruction of end-to-end warp locking, shown in d, by methods which make possible the change from monochrome to stripes; b, close-texture, semibasket weave with three heavy loomstring wefts at end selvage, whipped seam (16-1292); c, end selvage reinforced with needleknitting (16-1217) (cf. pl. 8,f, g); d, fine cotton garment material with stripes below monochrome section (16-1225), right-hand striped section faded; e, section of textile (2) with turn of fill-in straightening wefts indicated by black threads (4-4056) (cf. pl. 8,a). Width of b and c, 3 inches.

Plate 6

a-e, border stripes on Chincha cloths (16-1268, 16-1277, 16-1214, 16-1251, 16-1255a), colors, brown and blue; f, section of plaid with border stripe (4-3973d). Selvages at left. Width of narrowest border stripe, one-fourth inch; others in proportion.

Plate 7

a, reconstruction of border stripes of fabric in plate 6,e; b, reconstruction of stripe found on several specimens; c, section of fabric (2) showing variations in plain weave and amount of twist given to weaving elements (16-1240); d, section of fabric (2) showing two-and-two basket weave varied in appearance by arrangement of colored yarns (4-3962).

Plate 8

Reconstructions, a, fill-in weft to straighten working edge (cf. pl.

5,e); b, plain running st.i.tch; c, double running st.i.tch shown in two colors for clarity; d, seam in saddler's or baseball st.i.tch, also called antique seam; e, seam in whipping st.i.tch: f, g, top and side view of needleknitting type found on Chincha edge (pl.

5,c), alternate st.i.tches plain whipping st.i.tches; h, i, two views of reinforced selvage showing strand of twining through tops of whipping st.i.tches.

Plate 9

Weaving and sewing equipment: a-g, undressed thorns, 3.5 to 6 inches long (4-3653); h-o, bunch of fine wooden needles (n shows eye) 4.5 inches long, black and pale color wood (4-3651); p, copper needle (4-4094); q, headed and pointed stick, possibly a warp-lifter (4-3865f); r-w, sticks, some of cane including pointed and headed tools (4-3865a-e, g, h): s, u, weaving swords; t, loom bar; x, weaving sword, 18 inches long.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Plate 1. Chincha Doll]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Plate 2. Loomstring Ends]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Plate 3. Chincha Fabrics]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Plate 4. Textures of Fine Fabrics]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Plate 5. Weaving Techniques]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Plate 6. Pattern: Stripes and Plaids]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Plate 7. Pattern: Stripes and Variations in Plain Weaves]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Plate 8. Reconstructions of St.i.tches]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Plate 9. Weaving and Sewing Equipment]