52.--_Border in Crochet and Tatting_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 26.

This border is formed of circles in tatting and crochet leaves, which are joined together by rows of crochet work; a narrow

[Ill.u.s.tration: 52.--Border in Crochet and Tatting.]

border in tatting forms the lower edge. Omitting this edge, the border forms a strip of insertion. Each of the rosettes or circles is begun in the centre; work first 2 double (a double st.i.tch is formed by pa.s.sing the thread over the back of the hand, and then pa.s.sing the shuttle upwards between the forefinger and second finger, and drawing it up, then work a st.i.tch of plain tatting; this completes the double st.i.tch, and whenever so many double st.i.tches are directed it means the 2 st.i.tches), 1 purl, repeat 9 times, join the st.i.tch into a circle, work at a small distance * a smaller ring consisting of 3 double, 5 purl, divided each by 2 double st.i.tches, 4 double, draw the cotton through the purl of the first circle, and repeat 8 times more from *, only each following circle must be fastened on to a purl of the preceding circle after 3 double st.i.tches, and having completed each circle the thread must be drawn through the purl of the first circle, which forms the centre of the rosette. The beginning and the end of the thread are knotted together. For the tatted border, make at short distances 1 loop with 5 double, 1 purl, 5 double; after having worked a sufficient number of such loops, wind another thread round the thread between the loops, turning always 1 loop on the right side and 1 on the left. Now begin the crochet part with the leaves. Make for each of these a foundation chain of 12 st.i.tches, crochet back over this chain 2 double in the last st.i.tch but one, 1 double in the next st.i.tch, 1 treble in each of the following 7 chain, 2 treble in the next st.i.tch, 2 treble, 1 long treble, and 2 treble in the next following st.i.tch of the foundation chain. Work on the other side of the chain the same pattern, only the reverse way; then 3 double in the point of the leaf thus formed, and edge the whole leaf with a round of double st.i.tches, always working 2 double in each st.i.tch of the preceding row, and 3 in the long treble st.i.tch. In working this last round, the circles must be joined to the leaves by taking up the purl st.i.tch of the circle before casting off the corresponding double st.i.tch of the leaf; then work the stem which joins the 2 rows of circles and leaves with a row of chain st.i.tches, on which a row of double is worked. Then comes the border which forms the upper edge. Make a row of chain st.i.tches, joining leaves and circles together, then work 3 rows of treble, work 3 more rows over the tatted border, the first row entirely in chain st.i.tches, after every fourth st.i.tch take up the purl of the loops on one side. 2nd row: 1 treble in the middle st.i.tch of the 3 chain, 2 treble, divided by 3 chain. 3rd row: 1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1 under the last. In the last row the leaves and circles must be fastened on the border, as seen in ill.u.s.tration.

53.--_Diamond in Tatting_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 10; tatting-pin No. 2; any sized shuttle.

[Ill.u.s.tration: 53.--Diamond in Tatting.]

1st oval: Fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from the reel, as a double thread is required, and commence by working 5 double st.i.tches, 1 purl, then (3 double, 1 purl 10 times), 5 double, draw up.

Double thread: Putting the thread attached to the reel round the left hand, work 7 single st.i.tches, taking care to do them tightly.

2nd oval: 4 double, join to the last purl of 1st oval, then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up.

Double thread: 12 single st.i.tches tightly worked.

3rd oval: 4 double, join to last purl of 2nd oval, 3 double, join to next purl of 2nd oval, then (3 double, 1 purl 5 times) 4 double, draw up.

Double thread: 12 single st.i.tches.

4th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 8 times) 4 double, draw up.

Double thread: 12 single st.i.tches.

5th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up.

Double thread: 12 single st.i.tches.

6th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 4 times) 4 double, draw up.

Double thread: 7 single st.i.tches.

7th oval: 5 double, join to last purl of last oval, then (3 double, 1 purl, 10 times) 5 double, draw up.

Double thread: 7 single st.i.tches.

8th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up.

Double thread: 12 single st.i.tches.

9th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to next purl then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up.

Double thread: 12 single st.i.tches.

10th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 8 times) 4 double, draw up.

Double thread: 12 single st.i.tches.

11th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up.

Double thread: 12 single st.i.tches.

12th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 3 times) 3 double, join to 1st purl of 1st oval, 4 double, draw up.

Double thread: 7 single st.i.tches.

Now cut off both threads, and with a needle fasten off neatly at the back of first oval by sewing 1 thread over the other.

The diamond is now finished. The centre must be filled up with lacework, using fine sewing-cotton.

Arranged in groups of 7 or 8, 3 diamonds form a very pretty tr.i.m.m.i.n.g for the skirts of silk dresses, the body being trimmed with single diamonds.

54.--_Linen Collar trimmed with Tatting_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100, tatting-pin No. 3; 1 piece of very fine cord.

This collar is ornamented with a triangle and a border of a very effective pattern. The triangle is begun in the centre, by working for each of the three leaves 5 double st.i.tches, 5 purl divided one from the other by 2 double st.i.tches, and 5 more double st.i.tches. When the third leaf is completed, fasten off and cut the cotton. Now take, instead of the cotton wound upon the shuttle, a piece of extremely fine cord, over which work with the cotton from the reel the following row of st.i.tches:--1 double st.i.tch, fasten the cotton to the centre purl of one of the three leaves, * 2 double st.i.tches, 5 purl divided one from the other by 2 double st.i.tches, 3 double st.i.tches, fasten the cotton to the centre purl of the nearest leaf, 2 double st.i.tches, 9 purl divided one from the other by 3 double st.i.tches, 2 double st.i.tches fastened to the same purl as before. Repeat from * twice more, then fasten off, and cut the cord and the cotton. Begin afresh, and work 3 small circles, each composed of 12 plain st.i.tches placed quite close together (these form one of the corners of the triangle), then at small distances one from the other work 13 similar circles, every second one of which is fastened to one purl of the row of

[Ill.u.s.tration: 54.--Linen Collar trimmed with Tatting.]

st.i.tches worked over the cord (see ill.u.s.tration). Cut away from the collar the piece of linen which is to be replaced by the triangle, fold in the edges and work them round in b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tch, and fill up the s.p.a.ce with the triangle. For the border, work first * one circle composed of 3 double st.i.tches, 4 purl divided one from the other by 2 double st.i.tches, 3 more double st.i.tches; take up the cord once more and work over it, 3 double st.i.tches, then, without cord, 1 circle composed of 2 double st.i.tches, 12 purl divided one from the other by 2 double st.i.tches, 2 more double st.i.tches; take up the cord again and work over it 3 double st.i.tches, 4 purl divided each by 2 double st.i.tches, 3 double st.i.tches. Fasten the cotton to the third purl (reckoning from the last) of the second circle worked without cord; 3 double st.i.tches fastened to the fourth purl of the row of st.i.tches worked over the cord (see ill.u.s.tration), 2 double st.i.tches, 6 purl divided each by 2 double st.i.tches, 3 double st.i.tches fastened to the purl of next circle, 3 double st.i.tches fastened to the last purl of the row, 2 double st.i.tches, 3 purl divided each by 2 double st.i.tches, 3 double st.i.tches; fasten the cotton to the sixth purl of the circle (reckoning from the beginning), 4 double st.i.tches. Repeat from *. Work over the top of the border a crochet edging similar to that round the diamond pattern of collar No.

49. For the point of the border, at the corner of the collar, see ill.u.s.tration No. 54.

55.--_Tatted Collar_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100; tatting-pin No. 1.

This collar is worked with very fine tatting cotton. It consists of four branched tatted patterns and of separate tatted circles, fastened on to one another as seen in ill.u.s.tration. The four branched patterns are worked as follow:--3 double, 1 purl, 7 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 3 double, and join the knots into a circle. Work 3 similar leaves close to this 1st leaf, but instead of working the 1st purl, fasten them on to the last purl of the preceding leaf; besides this, instead of

[Ill.u.s.tration: 55.--Tatted Collar.]

working the last purl of the 4th branch, fasten it on to the first purl of the 1st branch. When 1 such four-branched pattern is completed, knot both ends of the cotton together and cut them off. Make a row of similar patterns by joining them on to the 2 middle purl of a branch of the preceding pattern, instead of working the 2 middle purl of the last branch (see ill.u.s.tration). Two rows of similar patterns are joined by the above-mentioned circles, consisting of 32 double st.i.tches, by fastening these circles from ill.u.s.tration between four branched patterns. Begin each circle with 2 double st.i.tches, fasten it on to the corresponding purl of the four-branched pattern, work again 2 double, fasten on to the next purl, and continue in the same manner till the circle is sufficiently large. Each circle is ornamented with lace st.i.tch. The collar is edged round the neck with close b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tches.