Beeton's Book of Needlework - Part 37
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Part 37

_315 and 316.--Netted Fichu or Cape._

Material: Fine wool, or white and blue silk; netting needle and meshes.

This fichu or cape is made either with fine wool or with silk used three or four times double. It may be worn as an evening wrap, either over a cap or on the hair, or as a necktie. The ground in our pattern is white, the border blue. The ill.u.s.tration of the ground and of the border, in full size, will serve as a guide for the size of the meshes to be used.

For the ground cast on the first mesh, with white silk, 56 st.i.tches; work 2 rows on the 56 st.i.tches. From the 3rd row, always miss the last st.i.tch, so that each row is decreased 1 st.i.tch. Continue in this manner till the 39th row, when there will be but 19 st.i.tches left. From the 40th row, miss 2 st.i.tches at the end of each row. The ground is completed with the 46th row. The 1st row of the work is the _cross-way side_; the last, the _point at the bottom_; fasten on the blue silk to the 1st st.i.tch of the 1st row, and on a larger mesh work 1 row round the ground of the fichu, not forgetting that the st.i.tch on the outer edge at the sides must always be taken, and 2 st.i.tches made in the 5th, 10th, 14th, [Ill.u.s.tration: 315.--Netted Fichu, or Cape, for Evening Dress.]

18th, 21st, 23rd, and 25th st.i.tches at the sides, as well as in each of the 2 middle st.i.tches of the last row; in each of the other st.i.tches 1 st.i.tch should be made. On the corners of the sides increase _once_, on the cross-way side, seven times in all. This forms the 1st round of the edging or lace.

[Ill.u.s.tration: 316.--Showing the Netting full size for Border of Fichu.]

2nd round of the lace: In each st.i.tch make 2 st.i.tches--still on the larger mesh. 3rd round: Always miss the small flat scallop formed in last row, and work 2 st.i.tches in the st.i.tch which forms a tight loop.

Keep thus the same number of st.i.tches, with which work 6 more rounds.

For the last round, work 1 st.i.tch in each _tight_ loop.

_317.--Lady's Knitted Purse._

Materials: 2 skeins of black purse silk; 2 skeins of scarlet ditto; black jet beads; a steel clasp with chain; a ta.s.sel of black beads; 5 steel knitting-needles.

[Ill.u.s.tration: 317.--Lady's Knitted Purse.]

This purse is knitted with black and scarlet purse silk, and ornamented with black beads and a black bead ta.s.sel. Begin the purse with the black silk in the centre of the bottom part, and cast on for one part of it 7 st.i.tches. Knit 14 rows on these backwards and forwards, in such a manner that the work is knitted on one side and purled on the other. The 1st st.i.tch of every row is slipped, the 1st row of this part is purled. * On that side where hangs the thread with which you work take the back chain of the 7 selvedge st.i.tches of the part you have just knitted on a separate needle, and knit another part, which must have 15 rows, and the 1st row of which is knitted. Repeat 10 times more from *. The st.i.tches of several parts can be taken on the same needle, so as not to be hindered in working by too many needles. When the 12th part is completed, take the selvedge st.i.tches on the left hand on another needle, cast them off together with the cast on st.i.tches of the 1st part, and fasten the silk thread. Then take the 7 right-hand selvedge st.i.tches of one black part on a needle, take the red silk on which the beads have been strung and work 15 rows on these st.i.tches, the 1st row from the wrong side, and therefore purled; in the 1st, as well as in all the other purled rows, the last st.i.tch must be purled together with the next st.i.tch of the next black part. In the purled rows, moreover, excepting in the first and last one, a bead must be worked in after casting off the 2nd, 4th, and 6th st.i.tches. The st.i.tch must be worked by inserting the needle into the back part, and in drawing through the silk which has been thrown forward, let the bead slide through the st.i.tch so that it is on the right side of the work. In the following knitted row, the needle must also be inserted into the back part of the bead st.i.tch.

When 12 such red parts have been completed, work again 12 black parts on the selvedge st.i.tch of the same, in which the beads are not knitted in, but sewn on afterwards, when the purse is completed. Then work 3 times more alternately 12 red and 12 black parts; when the last 12 black parts have been completed cast off the st.i.tches of the last black part together with the selvedge st.i.tches, the 1st on the wrong side; the st.i.tches of the 6th part are cast off in the same manner together with the selvedge st.i.tches of the 7th. The red parts which remain to be worked on the black part are thus lessened by 2; the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th, and the 7th, 8th, and 9th of these parts must be by 6 rows longer. Then gather all the st.i.tches and selvedge st.i.tches of the 10 parts on 2 needles, in such a manner that the 2 black parts, the st.i.tches and selvedge st.i.tches of which have been cast off together, are placed on the sides of the purse, and knit as follows with black silk, first on the st.i.tches of the one needle, and then on those of the other:--1 row knitted, knitting together every 3rd and 4th st.i.tch; then work 3 rows backwards and forwards on the same number of st.i.tches, which must be knitted on the right side; then work 8 rows more in the same manner, casting off the 2 first st.i.tches of the 8 rows. Then cast off all the remaining st.i.tches, sew the beads on the black parts from ill.u.s.tration; also the clasp and bead ta.s.sel.

318 to 320.--_Knitted Antimaca.s.sar or Berceaunelle Cover._

Materials: Grey and violot fleecy wool.

[Ill.u.s.tration: 318.--Square for Antimaca.s.sar.]

This antimaca.s.sar, part of which is seen on No. 320, smaller than full size, is made of rosettes and small squares, which are knitted separately with violet and grey fleecy wool with fine knitting-needles.

In the middle of each rosette sew on a tatted circle of grey wool. The edge of the antimaca.s.sar is ornamented with a grey woollen fringe. For each rosette cast on 6 st.i.tches with violet wool, and knit 12 rows backwards and forwards in such a manner that the work is knitted on one side and purled on the other: the first of these 12 rows is purled, the first st.i.tch of every row is slipped; * then take the first five selvedge st.i.tches of the knitted part on a separate needle (on the side where the end of wool hangs down, leaving it unnoticed for the present), inserting the needle into the back chain of the st.i.tch (the selvedge st.i.tch which is next to the cast-on st.i.tch remains, therefore, unworked upon), and knit on these a new part, which must have 13 rows; the first row is knitted, and in this row work 2 st.i.tches in the first st.i.tch, one purled and one knitted, so that this new part is equally six st.i.tches wide. Repeat 8 times more from *. After having worked several parts, the st.i.tches can, of course, be taken on the same needle, so as not to increase the number of needles. When the 10th part is com-* *pleted, take the selvedge st.i.tches of the left-hand side of the same on a separate needle, cast them off with the cast-on st.i.tches of the first part, and fasten the wool. Then take the 6 selvedge st.i.tches on the right hand of one part on a separate needle; take the grey wool, and work on these st.i.tches 13 rows backwards and forwards; the first row is knitted; it is worked on the right side of the work; in this, and in every following _knitted_ row, knit the last st.i.tch together with the next st.i.tch of the next violet part. When 10 such grey parts are completed (each of the remaining 9 parts consists of 13 rows, and begins with one knitted row), take all the st.i.tches and the selvedge st.i.tches of these parts on four needles and knit with these st.i.tches, also with grey wool 1 row knitted, in which the 6 selvedge st.i.tches must be decreased to 3 by knitting always 2 st.i.tches together as 1 st.i.tch; each of the other st.i.tches is knitted as usual. Then purl 2 rows with violet wool, and cast off.

[Ill.u.s.tration: 319.--Rosette for Antimaca.s.sar.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: 320.--Part of Antimaca.s.sar.]

For the tatted circle in the centre of the rosette, work with grey wool a circle consisting of 1 double, and 11 times alternately 1 purl 3-10ths of an inch long, 2 double, then 1 purl and 1 double. The circle is sewn on the rosette, from ill.u.s.tration, with grey wool. No. 319 shows such a rosette full size. The small squares (_see_ No. 318) are worked with grey wool; cast on 36 st.i.tches, join the st.i.tches into a circle, and purl 2 rows. To form the corners, knit together 4 times 2 st.i.tches after every 7 st.i.tches in the first of these two rounds, in the second round knit together 2 st.i.tches after every 6 st.i.tches; these decreasings and those of the other rounds must always take place, at the same places as in the preceding round. Then take the violet wool, and knit 7 rows; in the first of these knit 4 times 2 st.i.tches together after intervals of 5 st.i.tches; no decreasings take place in the 2nd, 4th, and 6th rows; in the 3rd row knit together 4 times 3 st.i.tches as 1 st.i.tch, and in the 5th and 7th rows 4 times 2 st.i.tches as 1 st.i.tch. After the 7th round, the remaining st.i.tches are cast off together as 1 st.i.tch. Then fasten the wool and cut it off. Lastly, sew the rosettes and squares together from No. 320 for a cover, and edge it round the border with a fringe of grey wool.

[Ill.u.s.tration: 321.--Knitted Border.]

321.--_Knitted Border._

Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s No. 10 or No. 50 knitting cotton.

If knitted with thick cotton, this border will be suitable for tr.i.m.m.i.n.g a quilt or berceaunette cover; if, on the contrary, fine cotton is used, the pattern will form a very pretty collar for a little boy or girl.

To make a collar, begin by a chain of 220 st.i.tches, and work 6 rows backwards and forwards alternately, knitting 4 st.i.tches and purling 2.

In the 2nd, 4th, and 6th rows the 4 st.i.tches are purled, and the 2 are knitted.

7th row: * Purl 2, make 1, knit 2, purl 2. Repeat from *.

8th row: Alternately purl 5, knit 2. All the rows with _even_ numbers are knitted like this, except that the number of the knitted st.i.tches are increased by 2 in each of them. We will not, therefore, henceforth mention these rows.

9th row: * Knit 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2, purl 2. Repeat from *.

11th row: * Knit 2, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2, purl 2. Repeat from *.

13th row: * Knit 2, make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 2, purl 2. Repeat from *. The pattern is continued in the same manner. The small gores formed between the ribs are increased by 2 st.i.tches in every second row. Each of these gores has 13 st.i.tches in the 21st row, which is the last. Cast off all the st.i.tches after this row.

Take a crochet needle, and with the same cotton as that used for the knitting work 1 st.i.tch of double crochet in every st.i.tch of the selvedge, then the 2 following rows for the edging. 1st row: Alternately 1 treble, 1 chain, under which miss 1.

2nd row: Alternately 1 double over 1 treble of preceding row, 1 purl (that is, 5 chain and 1 slip st.i.tch in the first), under which miss 1.

Over the first row of the knitting work 1 row of close double crochet.

The border is now completed.

322.--_Knee-cap in Knitting._

Materials: For 1 pair, 4 oz. pink 4-thread fleecy wool, and a small quant.i.ty of white ditto.

Begin each knee-cap by casting on with pink wool 114 st.i.tches, equally divided upon 4 needles, and joining them into a circle. Upon this number of st.i.tches work 47 rounds, alternately knitting and purling 2 st.i.tches.

In the 48th round begin the gore which covers the knee; it is worked separately backward and forwards, always alternately knitting and purling 2 st.i.tches.

[Ill.u.s.tration: 322.--Knee-cap in Knitting.]

After 2 rows change the pattern, so as to form small squares Knit the first row of this gore upon 26 st.i.tches slipped off from the last row on to a separate needle. At the end of each following row knit the nearest st.i.tch of the nearest needle, so as to increase 1 st.i.tch in each row of the gore.

Continue in this way until only 42 st.i.tches remain of the ribbed part.

After this work the remainder of the gore separately, decreasing once at the beginning and end of each row till only 26 st.i.tches remain; then take up 23 st.i.tches of the selvedge on each side of these 26 st.i.tches, and work 47 rounds, alternately knitting and purling 2 st.i.tches.

The edging at the top and bottom of the knee-cap is worked in crochet.

With white wool make a chain of 50 st.i.tches; turn and work 1 row of crochet _a tricoter_; then work a second row thus: the first part, as usual, with white, but coming back, with pink make 4 chain between each st.i.tch, work in the same way on the other side of the foundation chain, thus forming a small ruche, and sew it on to the edge of the knitting.

323.--_Knitted Neckerchief in Black Shetland Wool._

Material: Black Shetland wool.

This three-cornered neckerchief is knitted in the following pattern (commencing at the corner).

1st row: slip 1, make 1, knit 2 together, inserting the needle into the back part of the st.i.tch, slip 1, make 1, knit 2 together.