_Friday, 8th._ Cloudy and remarkably cold; the river has risen 6 feet since yesterday, and the water is muddy and thick. Started early. The effect of sudden rises in this river is wonderful upon the sand-bars, which are no sooner covered by a foot or so of water than they at once break up, causing very high waves to run, through which no small boat could pa.s.s without imminent danger. The swells are felt for many feet as if small waves at sea. Appearances of rain. The current very strong; but we reached Fort Pierre at half-past five, and found all well.

_Sat.u.r.day, 9th._ Rain all night. Breakfasted at the fort. Exchanged our boat for a larger one. Orders found here obliged Mr. Culbertson to leave us and go to the Platte River establishment, much to my regret.

_Sunday, 10th._ Very cloudy. Mr. Culbertson gave me a _parfleche_[37]

which had been presented to him by "L'Ours de Fer," the Sioux chief. It is very curiously painted, and is a record of a victory of the Sioux over their enemies, the Gros Ventres. Two rows of horses with Indians dressed in full war rig are rushing onwards; small black marks everywhere represent the horse tracks; round green marks are shields thrown away by the enemy in their flight, and red spots on the horses, like wafers, denote wounds.

_Monday, 11th._ Cloudy; the men at work fitting up our new boat. Rained nearly all day, and the wind shifted to every point of the compa.s.s.

Nothing done.

_Tuesday, 12th._ Partially clear this morning early, but rained by ten o'clock. Nothing done.

_Wednesday, 13th._ Rainy again. Many birds were seen moving southwest.

Our boat is getting into travelling shape. I did several drawings of objects in and about the fort.

_Thursday, 14th._ Cloudy and threatening. Mr. Laidlow making ready to leave for Fort Union, and ourselves for our trip down the river. Mr.

Laidlow left at half-past eleven, and we started at two this afternoon; landed at the farm belonging to the fort, and procured a few potatoes, some corn, and a pig.

_Friday, 15th._ A foggy morning. Reached Fort George. Mr. Illingsworth left at half-past ten. Wind ahead, and we were obliged to stop on this account at two. Fresh signs of both Indians and Buffaloes, but nothing killed.

_Sat.u.r.day, 16th._ Windy till near daylight. Started early; pa.s.sed Ebbett's new island. Bell heard Parrakeets. The day was perfectly calm.

Found _Arvicola pennsylvanica_. Landed at the Great Bend for Black-tailed Deer and wood. Have seen nothing worthy our attention.

Squires put up a board at our old camp the "Six Trees," which I hope to see again. The Deer are lying down, and we shall not go out to hunt again till near sunset. The note of the Meadow Lark here is now unheard.

I saw fully two hundred flying due south. Collected a good deal of the Yucca plant.

_Sunday, 17th._ We had a hard gale last night with rain for about an hour. This morning was beautiful; we started early, but only ran for two hours, when we were forced to stop by the wind, which blew a gale.

Provost saw fresh signs of Indians, and we were told that there were a few lodges at the bottom of the Bend, about two miles below us. The wind is north and quite cold, and the contrast between to-day and yesterday is great. Went shooting, and killed three Sharp-tailed Grouse. Left our camp about three o'clock as the wind abated. Saw ten or twelve Antelopes on the prairie where the Grouse were. We camped about a mile from the spot where we landed in May last, at the end of the Great Bend.

The evening calm and beautiful.

_Monday, 18th._ The weather cloudy and somewhat windy. Started early; saw a Fish Hawk, two Gulls, two White-headed Eagles and abundance of Golden Plovers. The Sharp-tailed Grouse feeds on rose-berries and the seeds of the wild sunflower and gra.s.shoppers. Stopped at twenty minutes past nine, the wind was so high, and warmed some coffee. Many dead Buffaloes are in the ravines and on the prairies. Harris, Bell, and Sprague went hunting, but had no show with such a wind. Sprague outlined a curious hill. The wind finally shifted, and then lulled down. Saw Say's Flycatcher, with a Grosbeak. Saw two of the common t.i.tlark. Left again at two, with a better prospect. Landed at sunset on the west side.

Signs of Indians. Wolves howling, and found one dead on the sh.o.r.e, but too far gone to be skinned; I was sorry, as it was a beautiful gray one.

These animals feed on wild plums in great quant.i.ties. Tried to shoot some Doves for my Fox and Badger, but without success. Pea-vines very scarce.

_Tuesday, 19th._ Dark and drizzly. Did not start until six. Reached Cedar Island, and landed for wood to use on the boat. Bell went off hunting. Wind north. Found no fit trees and left. Pa.s.sed the burning cliffs and got on a bar. The weather fine, and wind behind us. Wolves will even eat the frogs found along the sh.o.r.es of this river. Saw five, all gray. At three o'clock we were obliged to stop on account of the wind, under a poor point. No game.

_Wednesday, 20th._ Wind very high. Tracks of Wild Cats along the sh.o.r.e.

The motion of the boat is so great it makes me sea-sick. Sprague saw a Sharp-tailed Grouse. We left at half-past twelve. Saw immense numbers of Pin-tailed Ducks, but could not get near them. Stopped on an island to procure pea-vines for my young Deer, and found plenty. Our camp of last night was only two miles and a half below White River. Ran on a bar and were delayed nearly half an hour. Shot two Blue-winged Teal. Camped opposite Bijou's Hill.

_Thursday, 21st._ Wind and rain most of the night. Started early.

Weather cloudy and cold. Landed to examine Burnt Hills, and again on an island for pea-vines. Fresh signs of Indians. Saw many Antelopes and Mule Deer. At twelve saw a bull on one side of the river, and in a few moments after a herd of ten cattle on the other side. Landed, and Squires, Harris, Bell, and Provost have gone to try to procure fresh meat; these are the first Buffaloes seen since we left Fort Pierre. The hunters only killed one bull; no cows among eleven bulls, and this is strange at this season. Saw three more bulls in a ravine. Stopped to camp at the lower end of great Cedar Island at five o'clock. Fresh signs of Buffaloes and Deer. We cut some timber for oars. Rain set in early in the evening, and it rained hard all night.

_Friday, 22d._ Raining; left at a quarter past eight, with the wind ahead. Distant thunder. Everything wet and dirty after a very uncomfortable night. We went down the river about a mile, when we were forced to come to on the opposite side by the wind and the rain. Played cards for a couple of hours. No chance to cook or get hot coffee, on account of the heavy storm. We dropped down a few miles and finally camped till next day in the mud, but managed to make a roaring fire.

Wolves in numbers howling all about us, and Owls hooting also. Still raining heavily. We played cards till nine o'clock to kill time. Our boat a quagmire.

_Sat.u.r.day, 23d._ A cloudy morning; we left at six o'clock. Five Wolves were on a sand-bar very near us. Saw Red-shafted Woodp.e.c.k.e.rs, and two House Swallows. Have made a good run of about sixty miles. At four this afternoon we took in three men of the steamer "New Haven" belonging to the Opposition, which was fast on the bar, eight miles below. We reached Ponca Island and landed for the night. At dusk the steamer came up, and landed above us, and we found Messrs. Cutting and Taylor, and I had the gratification of a letter from Victor and Johnny, of July 22d.

_Sunday, 24th._ Cloudy, windy, and cold. Both the steamer and ourselves left as soon as we could see. Saw a Wolf on a bar, and a large flock of White Pelicans, which we took at first for a keel-boat. Pa.s.sed the Poncas, L'Eau qui Court, Manuel, and Basil rivers by ten o'clock.[38]

Landed just below Basil River, stopped by wind. Hunted and shot one Raven, one Turkey Buzzard, and four Wood-ducks. Ripe plums abound, and there are garfish in the creek. Found feathers of the Wild Turkey. Signs of Indians, Elks, and Deer. Provost and the men made four new oars. Went to bed early.

_Monday, 25th._ Blowing hard all night, and began raining before day.

Cold, wet, and misty. Started at a quarter past ten, pa.s.sed Bonhomme Island at four, and landed for the night at five, fifteen miles below.

_Tuesday, 26th._ Cold and cloudy; started early. Shot a Pelican. Pa.s.sed Jack's River at eleven. Abundance of Wild Geese. Bell killed a young White Pelican. Weather fairer but coldish. Sprague killed a Goose, but it was lost. Camped a few miles above the Vermilion River. Harris saw Racc.o.o.n tracks on Basil River.

_Wednesday, 27th._ Cloudy but calm. Many Wood-ducks, and saw Racc.o.o.n tracks again this morning. Pa.s.sed the Vermilion River at half-past seven. My Badger got out of his cage last night, and we had to light a candle to secure it. We reached the Fort of Vermilion at twelve, and met with a kind reception from Mr. Pascal. Previous to this we met a barge going up, owned and commanded by Mr. Tybell, and found our good hunter Michaux. He asked me to take him down, and I promised him $20 per month to St. Louis. We bought two barrels of superb potatoes, two of corn, and a good fat cow. For the corn and potatoes I paid no less than $16.00.

_Thursday, 28th._ A beautiful morning, and we left at eight. The young man who brought me the calf at Fort George has married a squaw, a handsome girl, and she is here with him. Antelopes are found about twenty-five miles from this fort, but not frequently. Landed fifteen miles below on Elk Point. Cut up and salted the cow. Provost and I went hunting, and saw three female Elks, but the order was to shoot only bucks; a large one started below us, jumped into the river, and swam across, carrying his horns flat down and spread on each side of his back; the neck looked to me about the size of a flour-barrel. Harris killed a hen Turkey, and Bell and the others saw plenty but did not shoot, as Elks were the order of the day. I cannot eat beef after being fed on Buffaloes. I am getting an old man, for this evening I missed my footing on getting into the boat, and bruised my knee and my elbow, but at seventy and over I cannot have the spring of seventeen.

_Friday, 29th._ Rained most of the night, and it is raining and blowing at present. Crossed the river and have encamped at the mouth of the Iowa River,[39] the boundary line of the Sioux and Omahas. Harris shot a Wolf. My knee too sore to allow me to walk. Stormy all day.

_Sat.u.r.day, 30th._ Hard rain all night, the water rose four inches.

Found a new species of large bean in the Wild Turkey. Mosquitoes rather troublesome. The sun shining by eight o'clock, and we hope for a good dry day. Whip-poor-wills heard last night, and Night-hawks seen flying.

Saw a Long-tailed Squirrel that ran on the sh.o.r.e at the cry of our Badger. Michaux had the boat landed to bring on a superb set of Elk-horns that he secured last week. Abundance of Geese and Ducks.

Weather clouding over again, and at two we were struck by a heavy gale of wind, and were obliged to land on the weather sh.o.r.e; the wind continued heavy, and the motion of the boat was too much for me, so I slipped on sh.o.r.e and with Michaux made a good camp, where we rolled ourselves in our blankets and slept soundly.

_Sunday, October 1._ The wind changed, and lulled before morning, so we left at a quarter past six. The skies looked rather better, nevertheless we had several showers. Pa.s.sed the [Big] Sioux River at twenty minutes past eleven. Heard a Pileated Woodp.e.c.k.e.r, and saw Fish Crows. Geese very abundant. Landed below the Sioux River to shoot Turkeys, having seen a large male on the bluffs. Bell killed a hen, and Harris two young birds; these will keep us going some days. Stopped again by the wind opposite Floyd's grave; started again and ran about four miles, when we were obliged to land in a rascally place at twelve o'clock. Had hail and rain at intervals. Camped at the mouth of the Omaha River, six miles from the village. The wild Geese are innumerable. The wind has ceased and stars are shining.

_Monday, 2d._ Beautiful but _cold_. The water has risen nine inches, and we travel well. Started early. Stopped at eight by the wind at a vile place, but plenty of Jerusalem artichokes, which we tried and found very good. Started again at three, and made a good run till sundown, when we found a fair camping-place and made our supper from excellent young Geese.

_Tuesday, 3d._ A beautiful, calm morning; we started early. Saw three Deer on the bank. A Prairie Wolf travelled on the sh.o.r.e beside us for a long time before he found a place to get up on the prairie. Plenty of Sandhill Cranes were seen as we pa.s.sed the Little Sioux River. Saw three more Deer, another Wolf, two Swans, several Pelicans, and abundance of Geese and Ducks. Pa.s.sed Soldier River at two o'clock. We were caught by a snag that sc.r.a.ped and tore us a little. Had we been two feet nearer, it would have ruined our barge. We pa.s.sed through a very swift cut-off, most difficult of entrance. We have run eighty-two miles and encamped at the mouth of the cut-off, near the old bluffs. Killed two Mallards; the Geese and Ducks are abundant beyond description. Brag, Harris' dog, stole and hid all the meat that had been cooked for our supper.

_Wednesday, 4th._ Cloudy and coldish. Left early and can't find my pocket knife, which I fear I have lost. We were stopped by the wind at Cabane Bluffs, about twenty miles above Fort Croghan; we all hunted, with only fair results. Saw some hazel bushes, and some black walnuts.

Wind-bound till night, and nothing done.

_Thursday, 5th._ Blew hard all night, but a clear and beautiful sunrise.

Started early, but stopped by the wind at eight. Bell, Harris, and Squires have started off for Fort Croghan. As there was every appearance of rain we left at three and reached the fort about half-past four.

Found all well, and were most kindly received. We were presented with some green corn, and had a quant.i.ty of bread made, also bought thirteen eggs from an Indian for twenty-five cents. Honey bees are found here, and do well, but none are seen above this place. I had an unexpected slide on the bank, as it had rained this afternoon; and Squires had also one at twelve in the night, when he and Harris with Sprague came to the boat after having played whist up to that hour.

_Friday, 6th._ Some rain and thunder last night. A tolerable day.

Breakfast at the camp, and left at half-past eight. Our man Michaux was pa.s.sed over to the officer's boat, to steer them down to Fort Leavenworth, where they are ordered, but we are to keep in company, and he is to cook for us at night. The whole station here is broken up, and Captain Burgwin[40] leaves in a few hours by land with the dragoons, horses, etc. Stopped at Belle Vue at nine, and had a kind reception; bought 6 lbs. coffee, 13 eggs, 2 lbs. b.u.t.ter, and some black pepper.

Abundance of Indians, of four different nations. Major Miller, the agent, is a good man for this place. Left again at eleven. A fine day.

Pa.s.sed the Platte and its hundreds of snags, at a quarter past one, and stopped for the men to dine. The stream quite full, and we saw some squaws on the bar, the village was in sight. Killed two Pelicans, but only got one. Encamped about thirty miles below Fort Croghan. Lieutenant Carleton supped with us, and we had a rubber of whist.

_Sat.u.r.day, 7th._ Fine night, and fine morning. Started too early, while yet dark, and got on a bar. Pa.s.sed McPherson's, the first house in the State of Missouri, at eight o'clock. Bell skinned the young of _Fringilla harrisi_. Lieutenant Carleton came on board to breakfast with us--a fine companion and a perfect gentleman. Indian war-whoops were heard by him and his men whilst embarking this morning after we left. We encamped at the mouth of Nishnebottana, a fine, clear stream. Went to the house of Mr. Beaumont, who has a pretty wife. We made a fine run of sixty or seventy miles.

_Sunday, 8th._ Cloudy, started early, and had rain by eight o'clock.

Stopped twice by the storm, and played cards to relieve the dulness.

Started at noon, and ran till half-past four. The wind blowing hard we stopped at a good place for our encampment. Presented a plate of the quadrupeds to Lieut. James Henry Carleton,[41] and he gave me a fine Black Bear skin, and has promised me a set of Elk horns. Stopped on the east side of the river in the evening. Saw a remarkably large flock of Geese pa.s.sing southward.

_Monday, 9th._ Beautiful and calm; started early. Bell shot a Gray Squirrel, which was divided and given to my Fox and my Badger. Squires, Carleton, Harris, Bell, and Sprague walked across the Bend to the Black Snake Hills, and killed six Gray Squirrels, four Parrakeets, and two Partridges. Bought b.u.t.ter, eggs, and some whiskey for the men; exchanged knives with the lieutenant. Started and ran twelve miles to a good camp on the Indian side.

_Tuesday, 10th._ Beautiful morning, rather windy; started early. Great flocks of Geese and Pelicans; killed two of the latter. Reached Fort Leavenworth at four, and, as usual everywhere, received most kindly treatment and reception from Major Morton. Lieutenant Carleton gave me the Elk horns. Wrote to John Bachman, Gideon B. Smith, and a long letter home.

_Wednesday, 11th._ Received a most welcome present of melons, chickens, bread, and b.u.t.ter from the generous major. Lieutenant Carleton came to see me off, and we parted reluctantly. Left at half-past six; weather calm and beautiful. Game scarce, paw-paws plentiful. Stopped at Madame Chouteau's, where I bought three pumpkins. Stopped at Liberty Landing and delivered the letters of Laidlow to Black Harris. Reached Independence Landing at sundown; have run sixty miles. Found no letters.

Steamer "Lebanon" pa.s.sed upwards at half-past eight.

_Thursday, 12th._ Beautiful and calm; stopped and bought eggs, etc., at a Mr. Shivers', from Kentucky. Ran well to Lexington, where we again stopped for provisions; ran sixty miles to-day.

_Friday, 13th._ Heavy white frost, and very foggy. Started early and ran well. Tried to buy b.u.t.ter at several places, but in vain. At Greenville bought coffee. Abundance of Geese and White Pelicans; many Sandhill Cranes. Harris killed a Wood-duck. Pa.s.sed Grand River; stopped at New Brunswick, where we bought excellent beef at 2 cents a pound, but very inferior to Buffalo. Camped at a deserted wood yard, after running between sixty and seventy miles.