SERVES 4 4 fillets bream (each weighing 7 to 8 ounces), skin left on1 teaspoon ground c.u.minsaltjuice of 1 lemon1/3 cup chopped coriander1 to 4 garlic cloves, crushed chili pepper, seeded and finely chopped (optional)4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oilflourolive oil for frying Rub the fish with a mixture of c.u.min and salt.

Prepare a sauce by mixing the lemon juice with the chopped coriander, crushed garlic (I like the larger amount but you may prefer to use only one clove), the chili pepper, if using, a little salt, and the oil.

Dredge the fish fillets in flour, turning to cover them lightly all over. Deep-fry very briefly in sizzling oil until golden, turning the pieces over once. Test the fish by cutting into one piece with a pointed knife. When the flesh begins to flake, lift out and drain on paper towels.

Serve hot with the sauce poured over. If serving cold, turn the fish in the sauce and leave to marinate, covered, in the refrigerator for an hour or longer.

TUNA with with RED BELL PEPPER SAUCE RED BELL PEPPER SAUCE Hout Bil Felfla Tuna steaks are best seared quickly, leaving the flesh still pink and almost raw inside. The sauce is also good with other grilled or pan-fried fish.

SERVES 4 FOR THE SAUCE4 fleshy red bell peppers2 garlic cloves, unpeeled3 tablespoons red or white wine vinegar3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil3 tablespoons olive oil4 thick tuna steakssalt1 to 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley Prepare the sauce first. Place the peppers and garlic on a sheet of foil on an oven tray and place under a preheated broiler, 2 to 6 inches from the broiler. Turn the peppers until their skins are black and blistered all over. Remove the garlic when it feels soft. Alternatively-and more easily-roast both the peppers and garlic in the hottest oven for about 30 minutes (take out the garlic much sooner, when it feels soft), or until the peppers are soft and their skins blistered and blackened, turning them once after 15 minutes.

To loosen their skins further, put the peppers in a strong plastic bag, twist it shut, and leave for 10 to 15 minutes. Another old way that has the same effect is to put them in a pan with a tight-fitting lid for the same length of time. When the peppers are cool enough to handle, peel them and remove and discard the stems and seeds. Peel the roasted garlic cloves.

Blend the roasted peppers and garlic in a food processor with the rest of the sauce ingredients.

Heat the oil in a large, preferably nonstick, skillet. Put in the tuna steaks and cook over high heat for less than 1 minute on each side, sprinkling lightly with salt. The time depends on the thickness of the piece. Cut into a steak with a pointed knife to test it; it should be soft and still pink inside.

Serve the tuna steaks on top of the sauce, sprinkled with the chopped parsley.

ROAST SEA Ba.s.s with with HERBS HERBS and and ONION CONFIT ONION CONFIT Hout Bil Ba.s.sal M'Zgueldi Other large white fish such as sea bream and turbot can be cooked in this way. When you buy the fish, ask the fishmonger to scale and clean the fish but to keep the head on.

SERVES 4 1 pound onions, sliced4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oilpinch of saffron threads1 tablespoon clear honeysalt and plenty of black pepper1 large sea ba.s.s (about 3 to 4 pounds)2 to 3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley2 to 3 tablespoons chopped coriander4 garlic cloves, crushedjuice of 1 lemonTo serve: 1 lemon, cut into quarters In a covered pan, cook the onions in 2 tablespoons oil over a very low heat, for about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until they are very soft and lightly colored. Stir in the saffron and honey, and season with salt and pepper. Cook, uncovered, for another 10 minutes, or until most of the liquid has evaporated, then spread over the bottom of an overproof dish.

Slash the fish in a few places across the thickest part to ensure that it cooks evenly. Rub the fish with salt and the remaining olive oil, then stuff with a mixture of the parsley, coriander, garlic, lemon juice, and a little salt and pepper.

Place the stuffed fish on the bed of onions and roast in an oven preheated to 375F for about 25 minutes, or until the flesh flakes away from the bone when you cut into the thickest part with the point of a knife. Serve with the lemon quarters.

COD STEAKS in in TOMATO SAUCE TOMATO SAUCE with with GINGER GINGER and and BLACK OLIVES BLACK OLIVES Hout Bil Tamatem Wal Zaytoun I like to make this dish with cod, but other fish such as bream, turbot, monkfish, and grouper may also be used.

SERVES 4 4 thick cod steaks (each weighing pound) or fillets (each weighing 7 to 8 ounces)salt4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil5 to 6 garlic cloves, chopped1 small chili pepper, seeded and finely chopped (optional)1 to 2 pounds ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped2 teaspoons sugar teaspoon ground gingerpeel of 1 preserved lemon, chopped (see page 7)12 or more black olives, pitted Sprinkle the fish lightly with salt.

In a large skillet, heat the oil with the garlic and chili, if using, for moments only, stirring, until the aroma rises. Add the tomatoes, a little salt, sugar, and ginger and simmer for 20 minutes.

Add the lemon peel and olives and put in the fish. Simmer for about 3 to 8 minutes (depending on the type of fish and thickness of the steak or fillet), or until the flesh begins to flake when you cut into it with a pointed knife. Turn the fish over once during the cooking.

Serve hot with the sauce poured over.

SKATE with with PRESERVED LEMON PRESERVED LEMON and and GREEN OLIVES GREEN OLIVES Hout Bil Laymoun M'Rakade Wal Zaytoun All kinds of white fish fillets can be cooked in this way, but I am particularly fond of skate wings with these flavors. The flesh is fine and delicate and easily parts from the layer of soft cartilaginous ribs. Small skate wings can be sauteed but the thicker, more prized wings of the larger fish must be poached (see Variations).

SERVES 4 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil4 small skate wings, skinned (about 2 pounds)saltjuice of 1 lemonpeel of 1 preserved lemon, chopped (see page 7)8 to 12 large green olives, pitted and chopped2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley or corianderTo serve: 1 lemon, cut into quarters Heat the oil in a nonstick skillet and put in the skate wings. Sprinkle lightly with salt and cook over a low heat for 4 minutes, then turn over, add the lemon juice, and cook for another 4 minutes, or until the flesh begins to come away from the long soft bones. The time depends on the thickness of the wings.

Add the preserved lemon peel, green olives, and chopped parsley or coriander and let them heat through in the oil and juices. Serve with the lemon wedges.

VARIATIONS For a spicy version using small wings, stir into the oil, just before you put in the fish, 2 crushed garlic cloves, a pinch of ground ginger, a pinch of ground c.u.min, and a pinch of ground chili pepper.

Instead of olives, you can add 1 to 2 tablespoons capers.

If using larger wings, buy 4 thick middle strips weighing about pound each (they are sold skinned) rather than side wedge pieces. Poach them in salted water, just below simmering point, for 15 to 20 minutes, then drain thoroughly. Heat the oil and lemon juice with the preserved lemon peel, olives, and herbs and pour over the fish.

PRAWNS in in SPICY TOMATO SAUCE SPICY TOMATO SAUCE Kimroun Bil Tamatem These prawns are deliciously rich in flavor and are good hot or cold. Serve them with mashed potatoes (see page 168 168 ) or with a little couscous (page ) or with a little couscous (page 112 112 ) moistened with olive oil. ) moistened with olive oil.Use raw king prawns: they are gray and turn pink when they are cooked. Some supermarkets sell them fresh and ready-peeled. You can also buy them frozen with their heads off from some fishmongers. The weight of these packs is inclusive of a thick ice glaze, which means that you need to double the weight-that is, for 1 1 pound of peeled prawns (about pound of peeled prawns (about 25 25 ), you need a ), you need a 2- 2- pound package. pound package.

SERVES 6 1 pound raw king prawns, peeled, or a 2-pound package frozen prawns1 medium onion, chopped2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil3 garlic cloves, chopped finely14 ounces tomatoes, peeled and chopped teaspoon ground gingerpinch of saffron threads (optional)pinch of chili peppersalt1 to 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley1 to 2 tablespoons chopped coriander If using frozen prawns, defrost them thoroughly. Pull the legs off the prawns, then peel off the sh.e.l.ls and pull off the tails (they are usually sold headless). If you see a dark vein along the back, make a fine slit with a pointed knife and pull it out.

In a large skillet, fry the onion in the oil, stirring, until it begins to color. Add the garlic and cook until the aroma rises. Then add the tomatoes, ginger, saffron, if using, chili pepper, and some salt and cook for about 20 minutes, until the sauce is reduced.

Now put in the prawns and cook them for 3 to 5 minutes, until they turn pink, turning them over once. Stir in the chopped parsley and coriander at the end.

CHICKEN with with CARAMELIZED BABY ONIONS CARAMELIZED BABY ONIONS and and HONEY HONEY Djaj Bil a.s.sal This is one of the cla.s.sics of Moroccan cooking and this version, with shallots or baby onions, is sensational. The art is to reduce the sauce at the end until it is rich and caramelized. It is important to taste it in order to get the right balance between sweet and savory.

SERVES 4 1 pound shallots or baby onions1 onion, chopped4 tablespoons sunflower oilgood pinch of saffron threads1 teaspoon ground ginger1 teaspoon ground cinnamon1 chicken, cut up in 6 or 8 piecessalt and black pepper1 to 1 tablespoons clear honeyTo garnish: cup blanched almonds or a handful of sesame seeds (optional) To peel the shallots or baby onions, blanch them in boiling water for 5 minutes, drain, and when cool enough to handle, peel off the skins and trim the root ends.

Saute the chopped onion until softened in the oil over a medium heat in a pan or ca.s.serole large enough to hold the chicken pieces in one layer. Stir in the saffron, ginger, and cinnamon, then put in the chicken pieces. Season with salt and pepper, and turn to brown them lightly all over.

Add about 1 cup water and cook, covered, over a low heat, turning the pieces over, for 15 minutes, or until the chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s are done. Lift out the b.r.e.a.s.t.s and put them to one side. Add the shallots or baby onions and continue to cook, covered, for about 25 minutes, or until the remaining chicken pieces are very tender. During the cooking, turn the chicken pieces and stir the onions occasionally; add a little water, if necessary.

Lift out the chicken pieces and set to one side. Stir the honey into the pan. Check the seasoning. You need quite a bit of pepper to mitigate the sweetness. Cook, uncovered, until all the water has evaporated, and the onions are brown, caramelized, and so soft that you could crush them, as they say in Morocco, "with your tongue."

Return the chicken pieces to the pan, spoon the onions on top of them, and heat through. A few minutes should be enough. Serve, if you wish, sprinkled either with blanched almonds fried in a drop of oil until they are lightly golden, or with toasted sesame seeds.

CHICKEN with with CARAMELIZED BABY ONIONS CARAMELIZED BABY ONIONS and and PEARS PEARS Djaj Bil Bouawid This is one of my favorites. You will be surprised by just how good it is. Follow the recipe on the preceding page for Chicken with Caramelized Baby Onions and Honey. Choose firm pears; if the fruit is too soft, they tend to collapse during the cooking. Comice and Bosc are good varieties.Cook the chicken as on the preceding page. Peel, quarter, and core 4 small or 2 large pears. Over medium heat, saute the pieces in a large skillet in about 1/3 to stick (3 to 4 tablespoons) unsalted b.u.t.ter and 1 tablespoon sunflower oil until they are soft and lightly colored.

When serving, present them on top of the chicken pieces or beside them.

CHICKEN with with CARAMELIZED BABY ONIONS CARAMELIZED BABY ONIONS and and QUINCES QUINCES Djaj Bil Sfargal I love quinces and love this dish. Quinces are now available for a good part of the year since they are imported from several countries where their seasons vary. Follow the recipe for Chicken with Caramelized Baby Onions and Honey (page 85 85 ). ).

Start with the quinces, as they take a long time to cook. Wash and scrub 2 quinces, then boil them whole for about 1 hour, or until they feel soft. The time varies greatly depending on their size and degree of ripeness, so watch them and don't let them fall apart. Drain them, and when the chicken is nearly ready, cut them into quarters and cut away the cores, but do not peel them. Then cut each quarter in half so you end up with fat slices.

Fry the slices in shallow sunflower or vegetable oil until they are brown on the cut sides. This gives them a delicious caramelized taste. Lift them out and drain on paper towels. Serve the chicken surrounded by the quince slices.

CHICKEN with with CHESTNUTS CHESTNUTS Djaj Bil Kastal There are some excellent varieties of vacuum-packed or frozen chestnuts now available, making this dish very easy.

SERVES 4 stick (2 tablespoons) b.u.t.ter1 tablespoon sunflower oil2 large onions, sliced1 teaspoon ground gingergood pinch of saffron threads1 teaspoon ground cinnamon1 chicken, cut up in 4 to 6 piecessalt and black pepper1 to 2 tablespoons clear honey1 pound chestnuts, vacuum-packed, or frozen and defrosted Heat the b.u.t.ter and oil in a large pan. Put in the onions, cover, and let them soften slowly over medium heat, stirring from time to time. When they begin to color, stir in the ginger, saffron, and cinnamon. Put in the chicken pieces, season with salt and pepper, and turn to brown them lightly all over.

Add 1 cup water and cook, covered, turning the chicken pieces over at least once. Lift out the b.r.e.a.s.t.s when they are done, after about 15 to 20 minutes, and put them to one side. Lift out the remaining chicken pieces about 25 minutes later, when they are very tender.

Let the onions reduce to a rich, brown sauce. Stir in the honey (I use only 1 tablespoon) and taste to make sure you have enough salt to balance the sweetness and enough pepper to mitigate it.

Put in the chestnuts and simmer for 5 to 10 minutes, or until they are tender, adding a little water, if necessary. Return the chicken pieces to the pan and simmer for a few minutes until the chestnuts are soft, and the chicken has absorbed the honeyed flavors.

CHICKEN with with DATES DATES Djaj Bil Tmar Morocco is a country of dates and there are several varieties. Use cup dates of a soft, moist variety such as the Tunisian Deglet Nour or Californian ones that you can find in supermarkets. Remove the stones, replacing each one with a blanched almond. cup dates of a soft, moist variety such as the Tunisian Deglet Nour or Californian ones that you can find in supermarkets. Remove the stones, replacing each one with a blanched almond.

Follow the recipe on the preceding page for Chicken with Chestnuts until the sauce has reduced but omit the honey. At this point, add the dates instead of the chestnuts. Cook 2 to 5 minutes, turning them over once; take care that the dates do not fall apart. Put the chicken pieces back into the sauce under the dates and heat through.

CHICKEN with with FRESH FIGS FRESH FIGS and and WALNUTS WALNUTS Djaj Bil Karmous Wal Joz Follow the recipe on page 88 for Chicken with Chestnuts until the sauce has reduced and become caramelized. At this point, add cup walnut halves and 4 to 8 fresh figs (4 black ones or 8 little green ones), peeled or simply washed, and cut in half. Cook them for 2 to 5 minutes, turning them over once. Take care that the figs do not fall apart. Put the chicken pieces back into the sauce under the figs, and cook a few minutes more to heat through and to absorb the honey flavors.

Another appealing way with the figs is to slash their stalk ends, making a cross. Sprinkle inside with a little lemon juice and a little superfine sugar, and put them under the broiler for a few minutes to barely caramelize. Then serve them as a garnish on top of the chicken pieces.

ROAST CHICKEN with with COUSCOUS, RAISIN, COUSCOUS, RAISIN, and and ALMOND STUFFING ALMOND STUFFING Djaj M'Ammar Bil Kesksou The couscous stuffing is the traditional one used for all birds, especially Mediteranean pigeons (the French pigeonneaux pigeonneaux or squabs) and chickens. A generous amount of stuffing is made, enough to fill the chicken and to have some on the side, but it makes more sense not actually to bother stuffing the chicken. It is best to use the fine-ground couscous called or squabs) and chickens. A generous amount of stuffing is made, enough to fill the chicken and to have some on the side, but it makes more sense not actually to bother stuffing the chicken. It is best to use the fine-ground couscous called seffa seffa (see page (see page 28 28 ) but you can use the ordinary medium one. ) but you can use the ordinary medium one.

SERVES 4 1 chicken (about 3 to 3 pounds)1 tablespoons extra virgin olive oiljuice of lemon teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon ground cinnamonsalt and black pepper2 tablespoons clear honeyFOR THE STUFFING1 cups fine couscous1 cups warm watersalt2 tablespoons sunflower oil1 tablespoon superfine sugar1 teaspoon ground cinnamon1 tablespoon orange blossom water2 tablespoons raisins, soaked in water for 10 minutes cup blanched almonds stick (4 tablespoons) b.u.t.ter Rub the chicken with a mixture of olive oil, lemon juice, ginger, cinnamon, salt, and pepper. Put it breast side down in a roasting dish so that the fat runs down and prevents the b.r.e.a.s.t.s from drying out. Pour about 4 to 5 tablespoons water into the dish.

Cook in an oven preheated to 400F for about 1 hours. Turn the chicken breast side up after about 50 minutes, brush it with the honey, and continue to cook until it is well done and brown. Test that it is ready by cutting into a thigh with a pointed knife. The juices should run clear, not pink. You will find that most of the honey will have slid down the chicken to mix with the juices and make a delicious honey sauce.

For the stuffing, put the couscous in a baking dish and moisten with 1 cups warm water mixed with teaspoon salt. Stir vigorously so that it is evenly absorbed. After about 10 minutes, add the oil and rub the couscous between your hands to air it and break up any lumps. Stir in the sugar, cinnamon, orange blossom water, and drained raisins. Fry the almonds in the remaining oil until lightly colored, coa.r.s.ely chop them, and mix them into the stuffing. The b.u.t.ter will be stirred in later, just before serving.

Put the couscous stuffing in the oven with the chicken 20 to 30 minutes before you are ready to serve. Stir in the b.u.t.ter, cut into small pieces, and fluff up the couscous with a fork. Taste, since you might like to add a little salt.

Carve the chicken and serve with the sauce poured over, accompanied by the stuffing.

TAGINE of CHICKEN CHICKEN with with PRESERVED LEMON PRESERVED LEMON and and OLIVES OLIVES Tagine Djaj Bi Zaytoun Wal Hamid This is the best-known Moroccan chicken dish. It was the only one, apart from appetizers, served during an evening of Arab poetry and storytelling, accompanied by musicians, that I attended in a Paris restaurant. The olives do not have to be pitted. If you find them too salty, soak them in 2 2 changes of water for up to an hour. changes of water for up to an hour.

SERVES 4 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil2 onions, grated or very finely chopped2 to 3 garlic cloves, crushed teaspoon crushed saffron threads or saffron powder to teaspoon ground ginger1 chicken, cut up in 6 or 8 piecessalt and black pepperjuice of lemon2 tablespoons chopped coriander2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsleypeel of 1 large or 2 small preserved lemons (see page 7)12 to 16 green or violet olives (see above) In a wide ca.s.serole or heavy-bottomed pan that can hold all the chicken pieces in one layer, heat the oil and put in the onions. Saute, stirring over low heat, until they soften, then stir in the garlic, saffron, and ginger.

Put in the chicken pieces, season with salt and pepper, and pour in about 1 cups water. Simmer, covered, turning the pieces over a few times and adding a little more water if it becomes too dry. Lift out the b.r.e.a.s.t.s after about 15 minutes and put them to one side. Continue to cook the remaining pieces for another 25 minutes or so, after which time return the b.r.e.a.s.t.s to the pan.

Stir into the sauce the lemon juice, the chopped coriander and parsley, the preserved lemon peel cut into quarters or strips, and the olives. Simmer uncovered for 5 to 10 minutes, until the reduced sauce is thick and unctuous. If there is too much liquid, lift out the chicken pieces and set aside while you reduce the sauce further, then return the chicken to the pan and heat through.

Present the chicken on a serving dish with the olives and lemon peel on top of the meat.

VARIATION Add chili pepper, seeded and chopped, with the onions at the start, and the juice of lemon (instead of ) toward the end of cooking.

TAGINE of CHICKEN CHICKEN with with ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, PRESERVED LEMON, ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, PRESERVED LEMON, and and OLIVES OLIVES Djaj Bil Korni This is marvelous! I use frozen artichoke bottoms that come from Egypt and are available here in Middle Eastern and Asian stores. You get about 9 9 in a in a 14- 14- ounce package and that is enough for ounce package and that is enough for 4 4 servings. servings.

Follow the recipe above for Tagine Tagine of Chicken with Preserved Lemon and Olives. Ten minutes before the end, when you put in the coriander and parsley, lemon peel, and olives, lift the chicken pieces and put the artichoke bottoms in the sauce beneath them. Add a little water, if necessary, and cook about 10 minutes, or until the artichokes are tender. of Chicken with Preserved Lemon and Olives. Ten minutes before the end, when you put in the coriander and parsley, lemon peel, and olives, lift the chicken pieces and put the artichoke bottoms in the sauce beneath them. Add a little water, if necessary, and cook about 10 minutes, or until the artichokes are tender.

MEDITERRANEAN PIGEONS, SQUABS, or or POUSSINS POUSSINS with with COUSCOUS STUFFING COUSCOUS STUFFING L'Hamam M'Ammar Bil Kesksou Because they are small birds, with one per person, it is worth stuffing them. A few butchers sell the special baby Mediterranean pigeons or pigeonneaux pigeonneaux or squabs. Otherwise, buy the smallest poussins possible. or squabs. Otherwise, buy the smallest poussins possible.

Make the same couscous stuffing as in the recipe for Roast Chicken with Couscous, Raisin, and Almond Stuffing (page 92) 92). Fill each pigeon or poussin with about 3 tablespoons of stuffing-they should not be too tightly filled, or the stuffing may burst out- and use toothpicks to secure the openings.

Rub the birds with double the quant.i.ties of olive oil, lemon juice, ground ginger, ground cinnamon, salt and pepper as given above. Roast them in an oven preheated to 400F, breast side down for the first half hour, then turn them breast side up, and brush them with 3 to 4 tablespoons honey. Return the birds to the oven for another hour (it takes longer to cook them than usual because they are stuffed).

Heat through the remaining stuffing for 20 to 30 minutes in the same oven and serve alongside the pigeons.

MEDITERRANEAN PIGEONS or or SQUABS STUFFED SQUABS STUFFED with with DATE DATE and and ALMOND PASTE ALMOND PASTE L'Hmam Bel Tamr Wal Loz This is great and also easy to make. Use a moist variety of dates such as the Deglet Nour of Tunisia or Californian ones. If you cannot get the special pigeons or squabs use small poussins.

SERVES 4 FOR THE STUFFING cup blanched almonds5 ounces dates (a little more than cup), pitted2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter4 small Mediterranean pigeons, squabs, or small poussins cup extra virgin olive oiljuice of 1 lemonsalt teaspoon ground ginger1 tablespoon clear honey For the stuffing, grind the almonds in the food processor. Add the dates and the b.u.t.ter and blend to a paste. Stuff the birds with this, and close the openings with toothpicks.

Rub the birds with a mixture of oil, lemon juice, and salt, and place them breast side down in a baking dish. Roast them in an oven preheated to 400F. The time depends on their size. I used 12-ounce poussins (not very small), and it took as long as 1 hours. The reason they take so long is because they are stuffed. Small Mediterranean pigeons or squabs take less time. Turn them over after 1 hours, when their backs are brown, and brush their b.r.e.a.s.t.s with a mix of ginger and honey. Put them back into the oven until the juices run clear when the inside leg is cut with a pointed knife.

Serve hot.

ROAST DUCK with with APRICOTS APRICOTS Bata Bil Mashmash I have used the ingredients of a chicken tagine tagine as a relish to accompany duck (which is not a Moroccan bird) because the combination of fatty duck with sharp apricots is great. as a relish to accompany duck (which is not a Moroccan bird) because the combination of fatty duck with sharp apricots is great.

SERVES 4 1 duck (about 5 pounds)salt and black pepper1 teaspoon ground ginger3 tablespoons sunflower oil1 pound baby onions or shallots teaspoon ground cinnamon stick (2 tablespoons) b.u.t.ter1 pounds fresh apricotsjuice of lemon3 tablespoons clear honey Sprinkle the duck with salt, pepper, and teaspoon ginger, then rub with 1 tablespoon oil. p.r.i.c.k the skin with a fork or pointed knife in several places so that the melting fat can ooze out. Put the duck, breast side down, on a rack in a baking dish or roasting pan and into an oven preheated to 400F.

Cook for 1 hour, then pour off the fat and turn over the duck. Return the duck to the oven and cook for another hour, or until the juices run clear, not pink, when you cut into the inside leg with a pointed knife. The skin should be crisp and brown and the flesh still soft and juicy.

Blanch the onions or shallots in boiling water for 5 minutes, and when cool enough to handle, peel off the skins and trim the roots. Saute them in the remaining 2 tablespoons oil for about 15 minutes, covered, over a low heat until softened; shake the pan occasionally so the onions brown all over. Stir the remaining ginger and the cinnamon into the oil, add the b.u.t.ter and put in the apricots. Cook, covered, over low heat until the apricots begin to collapse. Add the lemon juice and honey and cook, stirring, for about 15 minutes, until jammy.

Serve the duck accompanied by the apricots and onion relish.

GROUND MEAT KEBAB Kefta Kebab In Morocco, men are masters of the fire, in charge of the brochettes, brochettes, the small kebabs threaded on little wood or metal skewers, which are traditional street food. the small kebabs threaded on little wood or metal skewers, which are traditional street food.The ground meat kebabs are deliciously aromatic-full of fresh herbs and spices. The meat is usually pressed around skewers and cooked over dying embers, but it is easier simply to pat the meat into sausage or burger shapes and cook them under the broiler or on a griddle. There should be a good amount of fat (it melts away under the fierce heat), enough to keep the meat moist and soft. Otherwise, work 3 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil into the paste. tablespoons extra virgin olive oil into the paste.Bite-size kefta kefta s can be served as appetizers at a party, but s can be served as appetizers at a party, but en famille en famille burger-size ones, accompanied by a salad, represent a main dish. burger-size ones, accompanied by a salad, represent a main dish.

SERVES 4 TO 6 2 pounds fatty ground lamb or beef1 small onion, finely chopped or gratedlarge handful of chopped flat-leaf parsleylarge handful of chopped corianderhandful of chopped mint teaspoon ground c.u.min teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon ground gingergood pinch of ground chili peppersalt Put all the ingredients together in a bowl. Mix well and work with your hands into a soft paste. Wash your hands and rub them with oil. Take lumps of paste the size of a tangerine and roll them into sausage shapes about inch thick, then press them around flat wooden skewers. Alternatively, shape the meat into burgers.

Place the kefta keftas on a heat-proof serving dish or on a piece of foil on a baking tray and cook under the preheated broiler for about 10 minutes, turning them over once, until browned on the outside but still pink inside.

Serve hot with good bread and a salad of cuc.u.mber, tomato, and red onion, dressed with lemon juice and olive oil.

ROAST SHOULDER of of LAMB LAMB with with COUSCOUS COUSCOUS and and DATE STUFFING DATE STUFFING Dala M'Aamra Bi Kesksou Wa Tmar This is sumptuous and extremely easy. The meat is cooked very slowly for a long time until it is meltingly tender and you can pull the meat off the bones with your fingers. The stuffing-it is the traditional stuffing for a whole lamb-is sweet with dates and raisins and crunchy with almonds. (In Morocco, they add sugar or honey but that makes it too sweet for me.) The couscous needs plenty of b.u.t.ter as there is no sauce, but you can subst.i.tute oil if you prefer. Try to get the fine-ground variety of couscous called seffa seffa (see page (see page 28 28 ), otherwise use the ordinary medium-ground one. For the dates, use the Tunisian Deglet Nour or Californian varieties that you can find in supermarkets. ), otherwise use the ordinary medium-ground one. For the dates, use the Tunisian Deglet Nour or Californian varieties that you can find in supermarkets.A shoulder of spring lamb is always fatty but most of the fat melts away during the long cooking. If it appears too fatty, as might be the case with an older lamb, carefully remove some of the fat before cooking.

SERVES 4 TO 5 1 shoulder of lamb (about 3 to 4 pounds)salt and black pepper1 cups couscous1 tablespoon orange blossom water1 teaspoon ground cinnamon2 tablespoons sunflower or vegetable oil5 ounces (not quite 1 cup) dates, pitted and cut into small pieces1/3 cup raisins cup blanched almonds, chopped coa.r.s.ely2/3 stick (5 tablespoons) b.u.t.ter, cut into small piecesTo garnish: 8 dates and 8 blanched almonds Put the lamb skin side up in a baking dish or roasting pan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and roast in an oven preheated to 475F for 15 minutes. Then lower the heat to 350F and cook for 3 hours, until the skin is crisp and brown and the meat is juicy and meltingly tender. Pour off the fat after about 2 hours.

For the stuffing, put the couscous in another baking dish, and add the same volume of warm water, about 1 cups, mixed with a little salt, the orange blossom water, and cinnamon. Stir well so that the water is absorbed evenly. After about 10 minutes, add the oil, and rub the couscous between your hands to air it and break up any lumps. Mix in the remaining ingredients, apart from the b.u.t.ter, cover with foil, and put in the oven with the lamb for the last 20 minutes, or until it is steaming hot.

Before serving, stir in the b.u.t.ter so that it melts in and is absorbed evenly. With a fork, fluff up the couscous stuffing, breaking up any lumps. Add a little salt to taste, if necessary.

For the garnish, remove the pits from each date and replace them with the blanched almonds. Serve the meat with the couscous stuffing decorated with these dates.

ROAST SHOULDER of of LAMB LAMB with with CARAMELIZED BABY ONIONS CARAMELIZED BABY ONIONS and and HONEY HONEY Dala Bil Basal Wal Asal A favorite joint for a family roast in Morocco is a shoulder of lamb, and honeyed onions are a specially delicious accompaniment. The lamb is cooked very slowly for a long time, until it is so tender that the meat can be pulled away from the bone with the fingers. In the past, the lamb was cooked on the spit in the family courtyard or taken to the public oven.A shoulder roast of young spring lamb is always fatty, but most of the fat melts away during the long cooking, keeping the meat moist and succulent. If an older lamb is too fatty, carefully remove some of the fat with a sharp knife before cooking. Use the smaller amount of honey to begin with, and add more, to taste.

SERVES 4 TO 5 1 shoulder of lamb (about 3 to 4 pounds)salt and black pepper2 pounds (about 4 cups) baby onions or shallots4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil2 to 4 tablespoons clear honey Put the lamb skin side up in a baking dish or roasting pan. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and roast in an oven preheated to 475F for 15 minutes. Then lower the heat to 350F and cook for 3 hours, until the skin is crisp and brown and the meat is juicy and meltingly tender. Pour off the fat after about 2 hours.

Blanch the baby onions or shallots in boiling water for 5 minutes, drain, and when they are cool enough to handle, peel off the skins and trim the roots.