"Child, Beck, and Bertholle": Raymond Sokolov, Why We Eat: What We Eat Why We Eat: What We Eat (NY: Summit, 1991): 9495. (NY: Summit, 1991): 9495.

"No previous": Evan Jones, American Food: The Gastronomic Story American Food: The Gastronomic Story (Woodstock, NY: Overlook Press, 1991): 178. (Woodstock, NY: Overlook Press, 1991): 178.

"What JC did": Camille Paglia quoted in Christopher Lydon, "Queen Julia," The Improper Bostonian The Improper Bostonian (March 27April 9, 1996): 12. (March 27April 9, 1996): 12.

"A JC job": Robert Clark, James Beard: A Biography James Beard: A Biography (NY: HarperCollins, 1993): 205. (NY: HarperCollins, 1993): 205.

"so complicated": MFKF, Conversations with M. F. K. Fisher Conversations with M. F. K. Fisher, ed. David Lazar (Jackson: Univ. Press of Mississippi, 1992): 102.

"academic tribal reservation": Robert Manning, The Swamp Root Chronicle: Adventures in the World of Trade The Swamp Root Chronicle: Adventures in the World of Trade (NY: Norton, 1992): 312. (NY: Norton, 1992): 312.

"a carbuncle of cabals": Wallace Stegner, The Uneasy Chair: A Biography of Bernard DeVoto The Uneasy Chair: A Biography of Bernard DeVoto (Garden City, NY: Doubleday, 1954): 214. (Garden City, NY: Doubleday, 1954): 214.

"brother and sister": Jones, Epicurean Delight Epicurean Delight, 272.

CHAPTER 17.

LET THEM EAT QUICHE (19631964) Unpublished Sources Interviews: JC, David O. Ives 1/29/97, Elizabeth (Betty) Kubler 9/26/94, Russell and Marian Morash 12/14/94, Ruth Lockwood 5/7/93 and 12/18/94, Charlotte Snyder Turgeon 5/23/94, Charles Williams 2/21/95, Barbara Kafka 9/22/94, Jeffrey Steingarten 10/29/96, Barbara Ketcham Wheaton 11/17/93, Mari and Peter Bicknell 3/21/94, Jean deSola Pool 4/19/96. Group interview with Barbara Ketcham Wheaton and Barbara Haber 12/94. Barbara Sims-Bell interview with JC 7/1/89.

Correspondence: Marian Morash to JC, 10/5/82; Lizbeth Fisher to NRF, 2/17/95; Peter Davison to NRF, 1/15/96; Jack Savenor to JC, 10/1/82 (courtesy Peter k.u.mp).

Archives: Schlesinger: Schlesinger: correspondence of JC, SB, LB, AD, James Beard, Helen Evans Brown, Elizabeth David, and Ruth Norman; PC letter-diary to CC, 196364; mss. of correspondence of JC, SB, LB, AD, James Beard, Helen Evans Brown, Elizabeth David, and Ruth Norman; PC letter-diary to CC, 196364; mss. of The French Chef The French Chef programs, JC to WGBH 4/26/62 (initial proposal). programs, JC to WGBH 4/26/62 (initial proposal). WGBH: WGBH: tapes of tapes of The French Chef TVFN The French Chef TVFN (Sue B. Huffman): tapes of James Beard, Dione Lucas, and JC TV shows. (Sue B. Huffman): tapes of James Beard, Dione Lucas, and JC TV shows. Private: Private: JC and PC datebooks, 1963, 1964. AD, "Memoir About Julia," 10/16/88 (courtesy Mark DeVoto). JC and PC datebooks, 1963, 1964. AD, "Memoir About Julia," 10/16/88 (courtesy Mark DeVoto). Smith College: Smith College: JC oral history transcript, 10/10/72. JC oral history transcript, 10/10/72.

Published Sources "the forces of art and reason": Lewis Lapham, "Everyone's in the Kitchen with Julia," Sat.u.r.day Evening Post Sat.u.r.day Evening Post (Aug. 815, 1964): 20. (Aug. 815, 1964): 20.

"I rushed through that program": JC, The French Chef Cookbook The French Chef Cookbook (NY: Knopf, 1975): xii. (NY: Knopf, 1975): xii.

"Mrs. Child ... thinks": Lapham, Sat.u.r.day Evening Post Sat.u.r.day Evening Post, 21.

"The best free lunch": Alyne E. Model, "JC and Her Runaway Blender," Boston Boston (May 1966): 3134. (May 1966): 3134.

"quiet persistence": Elizabeth David, "Capability's Child," The Spectator The Spectator (Nov. 1, 1963): clipping. (Nov. 1, 1963): clipping.

"As long as I can get": Michael Barrier, "Food for Thought," Nation's Business Nation's Business (Dec. 1989): 34. (Dec. 1989): 34.

"from professors to policemen": TV Guide TV Guide (Aug. 2228, 1964): 9. (Aug. 2228, 1964): 9.

"more men than women": Fred Storm, "Cook's Night In," San Francisco News Call Bulletin San Francisco News Call Bulletin (Feb. 4, 1965): 32. (Feb. 4, 1965): 32.

"possesses none": Lapham, Sat.u.r.day Evening Post Sat.u.r.day Evening Post, 21.

"television's most reliable": Terrence O'Flaherty, "Miss Bavarian Cream," San Francisco Chronicle San Francisco Chronicle (Sept. 30, 1964): 43. (Sept. 30, 1964): 43.

"She's like a fairy G.o.dmother": Jane Harriman, "This Fairy G.o.dmother Waves a Neat Spatula," Boston Sunday Globe Boston Sunday Globe (April 28, 1963): 26A. (April 28, 1963): 26A.

"to turn Boston": "Plain and Fancy," Newsweek Newsweek (July 25, 1963): 77. (July 25, 1963): 77.

"Child's predecessors" and "a droll six-footer": Robert Clark, James Beard: A Biography James Beard: A Biography (NY: HarperCollins, 1993): 211, 212. (NY: HarperCollins, 1993): 211, 212.

"began to sag": JC, From JC's Kitchen From JC's Kitchen (NY: Knopf, 1975): 192. (NY: Knopf, 1975): 192.

"She provokes a rating": "How to Sell Broccoli, Time Time (March 20, 1964): 56. (March 20, 1964): 56.

"many requests": Jane Benet, "Look at the French Chef," San Francisco Chronicle San Francisco Chronicle (Nov. 13, 1963): F7. (Nov. 13, 1963): F7.

CHAPTER 18.

PROVENcAL WINTERS (19651967) Unpublished Sources Interviews: JC, DC, Mimi Sheraton 12/3/95, Barbara Kafka 9/22/94, Emily (Wendy) Beck 3/96, France Thibault 6/8/94, Jean-Francois Thibault 6/34/93, Kathie Alex 7/11/93, Elizabeth (Betty) Kubler 9/26/94, Philadelphia Cousins 3/31/95, Jean deSola Pool 4/19/96, Anne Willan 7/25/93, Ruth Lockwood 12/18/94, Judith Jones 10/7/93, Harriet Healy 5/5/96, Ailene Martin Berrard 6/8/94, Douwe Yntema 4/96, Fisher Howe 9/28/94, John L. Moore 5/20/94, Charlotte Snyder Turgeon 5/23/94, Charles Williams 2/21/95, Michael Hargraves 3/27/96, Joan Reardon 4/28/96, Peter k.u.mp 9/22/94, Patricia and Herbert Pratt 5/24/94.

Correspondence: Lyne S. Few to NRF, 4/28/94 and 5/9/95; Martha Culbertson to NRF, 3/18/95; Peter Davison to NRF, 1/15/96; Peter and Mari Bicknell to NRF, 3/21/94; Sally Bicknell Miall to NRF, 4/4/94; Joseph C. Sloane to NRF, 11/13/95, Helen Kirkpatrick Milbank to JC, 10/4/82 (courtesy Peter k.u.mp); MFKF to JC, 9/9/82 (courtesy Fisher estate).

Archives: Schlesinger: Schlesinger: PC letter-diary to CC, 195667; correspondence JC, Ruth Norman, Judith Jones, AD, and MFKF; AD notes on her trip to Provence, 1/3/67; Knopf business. PC letter-diary to CC, 195667; correspondence JC, Ruth Norman, Judith Jones, AD, and MFKF; AD notes on her trip to Provence, 1/3/67; Knopf business. Beinecke: Beinecke: Robert Penn Warren and Eleanor Clark Papers. Robert Penn Warren and Eleanor Clark Papers. Private: Private: datebooks of JC and PC, 1965, 1966, 1967; family sc.r.a.pbooks (courtesy JC and DC); correspondence JC and Michael Field; Peter k.u.mp video of Bramafam and SB, 8/2425/90 (courtesy Christopher k.u.mp); Michael Field ms. (courtesy Jean-Francois Thibault). datebooks of JC and PC, 1965, 1966, 1967; family sc.r.a.pbooks (courtesy JC and DC); correspondence JC and Michael Field; Peter k.u.mp video of Bramafam and SB, 8/2425/90 (courtesy Christopher k.u.mp); Michael Field ms. (courtesy Jean-Francois Thibault).

Published Sources "I'm tough and I speak": Quoted in Betty Fussell, Masters of American Cookery Masters of American Cookery (NY: Times, 1983): 52. (NY: Times, 1983): 52.

"educational TV's answer": Joan Barthel, "How to Avoid TV Dinners While Watching TV," New York Times Magazine New York Times Magazine (Aug. 7, 1996): 30. (Aug. 7, 1996): 30.

"hamming it up": Jane Howard, "Close-Up: JC, the Master Chef: Hamming It Up in the Haute Cuisine," Life Life (Oct. 21, 1966): 45. (Oct. 21, 1966): 45.

"last year alone" and "our lady of the ladle": "Everyone's in the Kitchen" (cover), Time Time (Nov. 25, 1966): 74. (Nov. 25, 1966): 74.

"watershed": Robert Clark, James Beard: A Biography James Beard: A Biography (NY: HarperCollins, 1993): 226. (NY: HarperCollins, 1993): 226.

"French cooking now rose": Harvey Levenstein, Revolution at the Table Revolution at the Table (NY: Oxford, 1988): 206. (NY: Oxford, 1988): 206.

"the nation's greatest": Jeremy MacLancy, Consuming Culture Consuming Culture (London: Chapmans, 1992): 188. (London: Chapmans, 1992): 188.

"The same working mother": Walter Kiechel III, "Two-Income Families Will Reshape the Consumer Markets," Fortune Fortune (March 10, 1980): 119, cited in Levenstein, 210. (March 10, 1980): 119, cited in Levenstein, 210.

"the stakes in food writing": Clark, Beard Beard, 225.

"If it weren't for Paul": Howard, Life Life, 52.

"WGBH has to turn away": Alyne E. Model, "JC and Her Runaway Blender," Boston Boston (May 1966): 32. p. (May 1966): 32. p. 312 312 "Not since the late Gracie Allen": Model, "Not since the late Gracie Allen": Model, Boston Boston, 31.

"JC is the Chuck Berry": Tony Hendra, "The Heart and Soul of Toque 'n' Roll," Vanity Fair Vanity Fair (June 1993): 88. (June 1993): 88.

"119 black-and-white programs": According to her records, 134 shows were taped. The first 13 were never saved, but 12 of the recipes were redone. One tape was "wiped" ("Bringing in the New Year") and several were repeated (e.g., "Buche de Noel").

"'JC' ... is actually": Paul Levy, Out to Lunch Out to Lunch (NY: Harper & Row, 1986): 205. (NY: Harper & Row, 1986): 205.

"I'm part of the iceberg": Mary Daniels, "A Supercook and Her Superman," Chicago Tribune Chicago Tribune (Aug. 20, 1977): 3. (Aug. 20, 1977): 3.

"the tradition of Brillat-Savarin": Joan Reardon, MFKF, JC, and Alice Waters: Celebrating the Pleasures of the Table MFKF, JC, and Alice Waters: Celebrating the Pleasures of the Table (NY: Harmony, 1994): xiii. (NY: Harmony, 1994): xiii.

"Like most other humans": MFKF, "Foreword," The Gastronomical Me The Gastronomical Me (1943), in (1943), in The Art of Eating The Art of Eating (NY: World, 1954): 353. (NY: World, 1954): 353.

"penciled Betty Grable brows": Molly O'Neill, "Wishes and Reminiscences from a Culinary Olympian," New York Times New York Times (Feb. 28, 1990): B1, 6. (Feb. 28, 1990): B1, 6.

CHAPTER 19.

THE MEDIA ARE THE MESSAGE (19671968) Unpublished Sources Interviews: JC, Jean deSola Pool 4/19/96, Patricia and Herbert Pratt 5/24/94, Jean-Francois Thibault 6/3/93, France Thibault 6/8/94, Peter k.u.mp 9/22/94, Kathie Alex 7/11/93, Ailene Martin Berrard 6/8/94, Emily (Wendy) Beck 4/96, William A. Truslow 4/20/95, William Koshland 10/8/93, Russell and Marian Morash 12/14/94, Ruth Lockwood 5/7/93, Philadelphia Cousins 3/31/95, Helene Baltrusaitis 7/28/93.

Correspondence: Peggy Brown to JC, 10/5/82 (courtesy Peter k.u.mp); Benjamin H. Brown to NRF, 4/10/96; Jane Owen Molard to NRF, 9/21/96; Judith Jones to NRF, 3/5/97.

Archives: Schlesinger: Schlesinger: PC letter-diary to CC, 196768; correspondence of JC, SB, AD, MFKF, William Koshland and Knopf Publishers; ms. for "The White House Red Carpet;" mss. and business for PC letter-diary to CC, 196768; correspondence of JC, SB, AD, MFKF, William Koshland and Knopf Publishers; ms. for "The White House Red Carpet;" mss. and business for The French Chef Cookbook. WGBH: The French Chef Cookbook. WGBH: "The White House Red Carpet." "The White House Red Carpet." Boston University: Boston University: Conversation with JC and Jacques Pepin," Boston University, 4/17/96. Conversation with JC and Jacques Pepin," Boston University, 4/17/96. Private: Private: JC and PC datebooks, 1967 and 1968. JC and PC datebooks, 1967 and 1968.

Published Sources "a raid on": "The JC Way to Play Your Own Ready-Ahead Dinner," Ladies' Home Journal Ladies' Home Journal (Oct. 1967): 88. (Oct. 1967): 88.

"Simca is a great improvisationalist": Michael James, Slow Food: Flavors and Memories of American's Hometowns Slow Food: Flavors and Memories of American's Hometowns (NY: Warner Books, 1992): 41. (NY: Warner Books, 1992): 41.

"a Roosevelt Democrat": Christopher Lydon, "Queen Julia," The Improper Bostonian The Improper Bostonian (March 27April 9, 1996): 14. (March 27April 9, 1996): 14.

"culinary reputation": JC, typescript for article on the White House for New York Times New York Times (Dec. 1, 1976): 1. (Dec. 1, 1976): 1.

"Napalm" and "chaotic": E. J. Kahn, Jr., Harvard: Through Change and Through Storm Harvard: Through Change and Through Storm (NY: Norton, 1969): 78, 375. (NY: Norton, 1969): 78, 375.

CHAPTER 20.

CELEBRITY AND SOLITUDE (19681970) Unpublished Sources Interviews: JC, DC, Jacques Pepin 12/5/95, Judith Jones 10/7/93, Jean deSola Pool 4/19/96, Peter k.u.mp 9/22/94, Karen Hess 12/1/95, Barbara Kafka 9/22/94, Mimi Sheraton 12/3/95, Clark Wolf 4/23/96, Jeffrey Steingarten 10/29/96, Lynne Rossetto Kasper 4/27/95.

Correspondence: JC to John White, 11/30/85; Judith Jones to NRF, 3/5/97.

Archives: Schlesinger: Schlesinger: correspondence JC, SB, MFKF, James Beard, Narcisse and Samuel Chamberlain, Sybille Bedford, Madeleine Kamman (JC to Dorothy Crandall of the correspondence JC, SB, MFKF, James Beard, Narcisse and Samuel Chamberlain, Sybille Bedford, Madeleine Kamman (JC to Dorothy Crandall of the Boston Globe Boston Globe, on behalf of Kamman, 9/6/70), Gladys Christopherson; PC letter-diary to CC, 196870. Smith College: Smith College: Oral History of JC, 10/10/72. Oral History of JC, 10/10/72. Private: Private: uncatalogued carbon copies of correspondence and menus of JC and SB related to uncatalogued carbon copies of correspondence and menus of JC and SB related to Mastering II; Mastering II; datebooks of JC and PC, 1968, 1969, 1970. datebooks of JC and PC, 1968, 1969, 1970.

Published Sources "The only national television female": Marya Mannes, TV Guide TV Guide [1968] clipping. [1968] clipping.

"sour dough": Hess (The Taste of America (The Taste of America, 188) appears to equate sour dough with wild-yeast leavened bread. If there is any disagreement between Child and Hess, notes Steven Sullivan of the Acme Bread Company in Berkeley, it is both "semantic and substantive": no one "invented" acidic bread, but "the American taste for highly acidic breads is revolutionary."

"gay camp culture": Robert Clark, James Beard: A Biography James Beard: A Biography (NY: HarperCollins, 1993): 234. (NY: HarperCollins, 1993): 234.

"It's a world of self-generating hysteria": Nika Hazelton quoted by Nora Ephron's September 1968 article in New York New York magazine, reprinted in her magazine, reprinted in her Wallflower at the Orgy Wallflower at the Orgy (NY: Viking, 1980): 4. (NY: Viking, 1980): 4.

"French's mustard people": Ephron, Wallflower at the Orgy, 5 Wallflower at the Orgy, 5, 78.

"Julia is essentially": PC quoted by Edith Efron, "Dinner with JC," TV Guide TV Guide (Dec. 5, 1979): 48. (Dec. 5, 1979): 48.

"nutritional terrorism": Harvey Levenstein, Paradox of Plenty Paradox of Plenty (NY: Oxford, 1993): 160. (NY: Oxford, 1993): 160.

CHAPTER 21.

RIDING THE SECOND WAVE (19701974) Unpublished Sources Interviews: JC, Jean deSola Pool 4/19/96, Karen Hess 12/1/95, Jacques Pepin 12/5/95, Marc Meneau 5/94, Peter k.u.mp 9/22/94, Richard Olney 6/26/95, Patricia and Herbert Pratt 5/24/94, Carol and B. J. Cutler 7/94, Sally [Bicknell] Miall 3/25/94, Anne Willan 7/25/93, Jane Friedman 10/31/96, Judith Jones 10/7/93, William A. Truslow 4/20/95, Jan Weimer 1/94, Philadelphia Cousins 3/31/95, Paul Levy 3/22/94, Sylvia and Jacques Delecluse 7/95, Mimi Sheraton 12/3/95, Russell Morash 12/14/94, Ruth Lockwood 5/7/93, Rosemary Manell 4/30/93. Madeleine Kamman refused an interview, but the written record of her correspondence with JC is housed at the Schlesinger. Barbara Sims-Bell interview with JC, 7/1/89.

Correspondence: Sally Miall to NRF, 4/4/94; Susan Jacobson to NRF, 7/9/96; Richard S. Mowrer to NRF, 2/21/95; Grant C. Thompson to NRF, 7/9/96; Sharon Thompson to NRF, 9/24/96; Jan W. Dietrichson to NRF, 5/23/95; Carol Cutler to NRF, 4/13/95; Susan M. Rogers to NRF, 8/14/96; Judith Jones to NRF, 3/5/97.

Archives: Schlesinger: Schlesinger: PC letter-diary to CC, 197074; correspondence JC, SB, LB, Anne Willan, Elizabeth David, Waverley Root, WGBH, Alfred A. Knopf Publishers, Elizabeth David, Hill & Barlow, Craig Claiborne, and Madeleine Kamman. PC letter-diary to CC, 197074; correspondence JC, SB, LB, Anne Willan, Elizabeth David, Waverley Root, WGBH, Alfred A. Knopf Publishers, Elizabeth David, Hill & Barlow, Craig Claiborne, and Madeleine Kamman. Private: Private: correspondence related to BBC-TV, 1970s. correspondence related to BBC-TV, 1970s. American Heritage Center: American Heritage Center: James Beard Correspondence. James Beard Correspondence. Beinecke: Beinecke: Francis Brennan and Richard Myers Papers, Robert Penn Warren and Eleanor Clark Papers. Francis Brennan and Richard Myers Papers, Robert Penn Warren and Eleanor Clark Papers.

Published Sources "continuation": JC, Mastering the Art of French Cooking II Mastering the Art of French Cooking II (NY: Knopf, 1970): viii. (NY: Knopf, 1970): viii.

"Volume I was mud-pie stuff": Gael Greene, "Julia's Moon Walk with French Bread," Life Life (Oct. 70): 8. (Oct. 70): 8.

"heralded like the second coming": Nika Hazelton, "Genghis Khan's Sauerkraut and Other Edibles," New York Times Book Review New York Times Book Review (Dec. 6, 1970): 96. (Dec. 6, 1970): 96.

"daunting book": Raymond A. Sokolov, Newsweek Newsweek (Nov. 9, 1970): 94. (Nov. 9, 1970): 94.

"He loved the skullduggery": Quoted by Geraldine Baum, "Cooking in the Kitchen with Jim," Los Angeles Times Magazine Los Angeles Times Magazine (Nov. 1, 1996): A25. (Nov. 1, 1996): A25.

"One of the good things": Calvin Tomkins, "Profiles: Good Cooking," New Yorker New Yorker (Dec. 23, 1974): 50. (Dec. 23, 1974): 50.

"birthday queen": PC, Bubbles from the Spring Bubbles from the Spring (n.p.: Antique Press, 1974): [41]. (n.p.: Antique Press, 1974): [41].

"On the Trail": Bill Krauss, "On the Trail of JC," International Herald Tribune International Herald Tribune (March 1971): clipping. See PC to Bill Krauss, March 18, 1971 (Schlesinger): "Now, G.o.d d.a.m.n it, you've blown our cover." (March 1971): clipping. See PC to Bill Krauss, March 18, 1971 (Schlesinger): "Now, G.o.d d.a.m.n it, you've blown our cover."

"A Big Child": Terrence O'Flaherty, "The Perils of Julia," San Francisco Chronicle San Francisco Chronicle (Oct. 6, 1972): 44. (Oct. 6, 1972): 44.

"the lady unleashed" and "Julia breathes hard": Greene, Life Life, 8.

"glid[ing] around her oversized studio kitchen": Philip n.o.bile, "JC: An Offbeat Chef," Pasadena Star-News Pasadena Star-News (Nov. 13, 1972): 1. (Nov. 13, 1972): 1.