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SWEET-AND-SOUR ONION MARMALADE.

There are so many ways to use this marmalade, you can never have too much of it on hand. However, my favorite use is on the top of focaccia or grilled pizza. It takes about a half hour to make, so you will need to plan ahead. You can store it in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.Makes about 2 cups cup olive or vegetable oil4 large yellow or white onions, cut into thin strips cup sugar cup balsamic vinegar teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper1. In a large frying pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onions and saute for 20 to 25 minutes, or until they begin to turn a light golden brown. (Do not cook over high heat, as the outside of the onions will char too quickly before the insides have softened and sweetened.) Add the sugar and continue cooking and stirring for about 3 minutes, or until the sugar melts and begins to bubble.2. As the onions turn a richer brown, clear a s.p.a.ce in the center of the pan, pour the vinegar directly onto the hot pan, and then stir the vinegar into the onions. When the vinegar has reduced, leaving a syrupy coating on the onions, remove from the heat, stir in the salt and pepper, and let cool completely before using or storing.

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SAUTeED MUSHROOMS.

Mushrooms, especially porcini and other wild mushrooms, are wonderful on a pizza bianca pizza bianca (pizza with white sauce). They are actually pretty wonderful on almost any kind of pizza, especially in conjunction with savory herbs and vegetables like arugula, glazed onions, and spinach. (pizza with white sauce). They are actually pretty wonderful on almost any kind of pizza, especially in conjunction with savory herbs and vegetables like arugula, glazed onions, and spinach.Makes about cup, enough for 1 pizza2 tablespoons olive oil5 porcini or other mushrooms (about 4 ounces), cut into -inch-thick slices1 clove garlic, minced (optional)Salt and freshly ground black pepper1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley or arugula (optional)1. In a frying pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the mushrooms and garlic and saute for 2 to 3 minutes, or just until the mushrooms begin to sweat. Season to taste with salt and pepper and remove from the heat.2. Let the mushrooms cool completely. Spread the mushroom mixture over the top of the pizza, either before or after baking. Garnish the pizza with the parsley when it comes out of the oven.

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b.u.t.tERNUT SQUASH PUReE.

Make this puree during the late fall and winter, when winter squashes and root vegetables are abundant and are appreciated on the dinner table. You can use the same method to make similar purees with turnips, parsnips, carrots, acorn squashes, or pumpkins, but I think b.u.t.ternut squash is the king of this category. The yield will depend on the size of the squash; for example, a 3-pound squash will yield about 5 cups puree.1 b.u.t.ternut squash, any size, cut into 8 sections and seeds discarded1 cup waterSalt and freshly ground black pepper1. In a large saucepan, combine the squash and water, cover, and bring to a boil over high heat. (If you have an expandable steamer insert, you can use it if you like, although it is not necessary.) Lower the heat to low and simmer for about 20 minutes, or until the squash is fork-tender. Remove from the heat and drain off the water, reserving it.2. When the squash pieces are cool enough to handle, scoop out the flesh into a bowl and discard the skin. Working in batches, process the squash flesh in a food processor until smooth and creamy, adding the reserved cooking water if necessary to achieve a good consistency. Package the puree in zippered snack-sized freezer bags and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks or freeze for up to 6 months.

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WHITE SAUCE.

This sauce is especially good on white pizzas, particularly mushroom pizzas. It makes them deliciously creamy and rich.Makes about cup, enough for 1 or 2 pizzas, depending on size2 tablespoons olive oil1 small yellow onion, diced1 clove garlic, minced or pressed cup heavy cream teaspoon minced fresh thyme or marjoramSalt and freshly ground black pepper1. In a heavy saucepan or frying pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and saute for 5 or 6 minutes, or until translucent. Add the garlic and stir for 1 minute longer. Add the cream, lower the heat to medium-low, and cook for about 3 minutes, or until the cream thickens and reduces slightly.2. Remove from the heat, stir in the thyme, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Let cool completely before using. It will keep tightly covered in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

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CRAB AND CREAM CHEESE TOPPING.

Although this topping has the consistency of cream cheese, it melts into a creamy sauce when you bake it on pizza. It can also be served straight from the refrigerator as a dip for crackers. If you do not have an organic lemon, blanch a regular lemon in boiling water for 15 seconds to remove any pesticide residue before zesting. When zesting, use either a rasp-style zester, such as a Microplane, or the finest rasps on a box grater. Also, do not remove any of the white of the peel with the colored portion, as it will impart a bitter flavor.Makes about 2 cups1 can (6 ounces) crabmeat, drained and picked over for sh.e.l.l fragments, or an equal amount of fresh cooked crab pound full-fat cream cheese, at room temperature cup finely minced Vidalia, Walla Walla, Maui, or other sweet onionFinely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon, preferably organic teaspoon Tabasco or other hot-pepper sauce teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to tasteIn a bowl, combine the crabmeat, cream cheese, onion, half of the lemon zest, all of the lemon juice, and the hot-pepper sauce. Using a st.u.r.dy spoon, beat until well blended. (Alternatively, combine the ingredients in an electric stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and beat on low speed until blended.) Mix in teaspoon pepper and adjust the seasoning, adding more lemon zest to taste. Cover and refrigerate for up to 1 week.

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DILL AND CHIVE SAUCE.

Here is a wonderful low-fat sauce for smoked salmon or other seafood pizzas, drizzled under the toppings or over them. It can also be used as a dip for vegetables and crackers. You can make it thicker and richer by subst.i.tuting sour cream for the yogurt.Makes about 1 cup1 cup low-fat plain yogurt2 tablespoons minced fresh chives or 1 tablespoon dried chives2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill1 tablespoon capers teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepperIn a small bowl, combine all the ingredients, mix well, and then taste and adjust the seasoning. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour before using to meld the flavors. It will keep refrigerated for up to 1 week.

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TAPENADE.

Wonderful tangy tapenades, or relishes made from savory ingredients like olives and capers, are now widely available and are showing up in all sorts of creative, nontraditional variations. They make excellent pizza toppings, and my wife, Susan, has come up with her own version, which is now a refrigerator mainstay for topping pizzas and for eating with crackers. It is not only easy to prepare, but also, packed into small jars, makes a wonderful gift at holiday time. We use it primarily on grilled pizzas, but it will deliver a flavor burst on any kind of oven pizza as well. If you cannot locate dry-packed sun-dried tomatoes (buy the reddest ones you can find), you can use marinated ones. Drain off and discard the oil and seasonings unless the olive oil is of high quality. If you do not have an organic lemon, blanch a regular lemon in boiling water for 15 seconds to remove pesticide residue before zesting.Makes about 1 cup pound dry-packed sun-dried tomatoes, coa.r.s.ely chopped20 Kalamata olives, pitted cup extra virgin olive oil1 teaspoon red wine vinegar3 large cloves garlic teaspoon dried oreganoFinely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon, preferably organicSaltIn a food processor, combine the sun-dried tomatoes, olives, olive oil, vinegar, garlic, oregano, and lemon zest and juice and process until a smooth paste forms, stopping to sc.r.a.pe down the sides of the bowl as necessary. Taste and season with salt, though it may not need any. Store in a tightly covered container in the refrigerator for up to several months.

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ROASTED EGGPLANT, TOMATO, AND LEMON TOPPING.

You will need to set aside a little time to make this rustic, full-flavored topping, but it is time well spent, as it can be used in many ways. We often serve it over hot or cold pasta or over rice, or sometimes we just eat it on crackers. But a pizza is its best medium. Use it in small dollops-the flavor is too intense to use over the entire surface-on oven or grilled pizzas. You can make a large batch and keep it in the refrigerator for about 2 weeks, or freeze it in zippered plastic bags for up to 6 months. If you can find only nonorganic lemons, blanch them for 15 seconds in boiling water to remove any pesticide residue before zesting.Makes about 4 cups1 large eggplant, cut crosswise into -inch-thick slices1 large yellow or white onion, cut into thin strips4 large tomatoes, cut into -inch-thick slices1 pound Kalamata olives, pitted1 tablespoon coa.r.s.e sea salt or kosher saltFinely grated zest and juice of 3 lemons, preferably organic cup olive oil teaspoon freshly ground black pepper1. Preheat the oven to 500F. In a large bowl, combine all of the ingredients except the pepper and mix thoroughly. Spread the mixture in an even layer on a sheet pan.2. Place the pan in the oven and roast the mixture, stirring it every 15 minutes for even cooking, for about 50 minutes, or until the eggplant is easily pierced with a fork. Turn the oven dial to the broiler setting and cook on the middle shelf under the broiler for about 8 minutes, or until the ingredients char slightly, crisp, and caramelize. Remove from the oven, stir in the pepper, and then taste and adjust the seasoning. Let the mixture cool before using or storing.Pizza-Cheese PrimerMany cheeses taste good on pizza, so you should feel unrestrained in trying a variety of types and combinations. Italian cheeses are a pizza maker's first thought, of course, but cheeses from elsewhere will work beautifully, too. For instance, low-moisture mozzarella and Monterey Jack cheese are often interchangeable, or Sonoma dry Jack is a wonderful option to replace Parmesan or pecorino Romano cheese.The following list briefly describes some of the Italian cheeses that appear in the recipes that follow, or in other pizza recipes you may have seen. If you know of other cheeses, domestic or international, with similar characteristics, you should be able to make subst.i.tutions freely.Asiago: Named for a plateau in northeastern Italy, Asiago is a DOC cow's milk cheese produced in areas around Padua and Treviso and in the provinces of Trento and Vincenza. It is sold at a variety of ages, from very young, aged about three weeks, to more than a year old, the latter called Named for a plateau in northeastern Italy, Asiago is a DOC cow's milk cheese produced in areas around Padua and Treviso and in the provinces of Trento and Vincenza. It is sold at a variety of ages, from very young, aged about three weeks, to more than a year old, the latter called Asiago stravecchio Asiago stravecchio. The longer-aged versions are excellent for grating and can be used in place of Parmesan-type cheesesBel Paese: Literally "beautiful country," this soft, slightly tangy cow's milk cheese is growing in popularity. A very b.u.t.tery cheese-made from milk with a b.u.t.terfat content that can be as high as 50 percent-it originated in Lombardy, although an American-made version is also widely sold. Bel Paese can be subst.i.tuted for full-fat low-moisture mozzarella. Literally "beautiful country," this soft, slightly tangy cow's milk cheese is growing in popularity. A very b.u.t.tery cheese-made from milk with a b.u.t.terfat content that can be as high as 50 percent-it originated in Lombardy, although an American-made version is also widely sold. Bel Paese can be subst.i.tuted for full-fat low-moisture mozzarella.Caciocavallo: This southern Italian cheese has a long history; as the story goes, it was originally made from mare's milk, thus the name, "cheese on horseback." Another tale attributes the name to how the cheeses are traditionally ripened, hung from poles in pairs, as if carried on horseback. In any case, today This southern Italian cheese has a long history; as the story goes, it was originally made from mare's milk, thus the name, "cheese on horseback." Another tale attributes the name to how the cheeses are traditionally ripened, hung from poles in pairs, as if carried on horseback. In any case, today caciocavallo caciocavallo is a cow's milk cheese and is in the same family of cheeses as provolone and mozzarella, meaning that it is stretched and shaped by hand. It is available plain or smoked, and may be young and smooth or aged and granular. is a cow's milk cheese and is in the same family of cheeses as provolone and mozzarella, meaning that it is stretched and shaped by hand. It is available plain or smoked, and may be young and smooth or aged and granular.Crescenza: Sometimes called Sometimes called crescenza stracchino crescenza stracchino, this is a fresh cow's milk cheese from northern Italy with a rich, delicate flavor and a creamy texture similar to American cream cheese. Italian crescenza crescenza is difficult to find in this country because it is highly perishable. Bellwether Farms, an artisa.n.a.l cheese maker in northern California, produces an excellent American version. is difficult to find in this country because it is highly perishable. Bellwether Farms, an artisa.n.a.l cheese maker in northern California, produces an excellent American version.Fontina: This cheese originates in the Aosta Valley, in the northern corner of Italy, near Switzerland. It is a medium-ripened cow's milk cheese that has a b.u.t.tery texture, a delicate flavor, and melts nicely. This cheese originates in the Aosta Valley, in the northern corner of Italy, near Switzerland. It is a medium-ripened cow's milk cheese that has a b.u.t.tery texture, a delicate flavor, and melts nicely.Gorgonzola: A soft, blue-veined cheese native to Lombardy, Gorgonzola is made from cow's milk with a high b.u.t.terfat content and has a pleasantly piquant flavor. A soft, blue-veined cheese native to Lombardy, Gorgonzola is made from cow's milk with a high b.u.t.terfat content and has a pleasantly piquant flavor.Grana: This is the name of a cheese group, of which the most famous members are Parmigiano-Reggiano, This is the name of a cheese group, of which the most famous members are Parmigiano-Reggiano, grana padano grana padano, and pecorino Romano. The word grana grana means "grain" or "of granular quality," which aptly describes the texture of these aged cheeses. means "grain" or "of granular quality," which aptly describes the texture of these aged cheeses. Grana padano Grana padano is generally aged for a shorter period than Parmigiano-Reggiano. is generally aged for a shorter period than Parmigiano-Reggiano.Mascarpone: A fresh, very rich cheese that has a texture similar to that of sour cream. It is made from cow's milk and was originally produced only in Lombardy, but now is made throughout Italy. Traditionally, it was commonly used in desserts, but it has become popular in savory dishes as well. A fresh, very rich cheese that has a texture similar to that of sour cream. It is made from cow's milk and was originally produced only in Lombardy, but now is made throughout Italy. Traditionally, it was commonly used in desserts, but it has become popular in savory dishes as well.Mozzarella: The most well-known pizza cheese, mozzarella is made by the process known as The most well-known pizza cheese, mozzarella is made by the process known as pasta pasta filata filata, in which the milk curds are dipped into hot water and then kneaded, stretched, and squeezed into shape. This process gives the cheese its unique texture. Originally mozzarella was made only from the milk of water buffalo, but now it is primarily made from cow's milk. It is usually, but not always, produced from whole milk and may be sold as a fresh cheese, called fior di latte fior di latte if made from cow's milk and if made from cow's milk and mozzarella di bufala mozzarella di bufala if made from water buffalo's milk. It can also be made into a low-moisture cheese. Fresh mozzarella is typically sold in b.a.l.l.s packed in water (called the governing liquid). Small mozzarella b.a.l.l.s if made from water buffalo's milk. It can also be made into a low-moisture cheese. Fresh mozzarella is typically sold in b.a.l.l.s packed in water (called the governing liquid). Small mozzarella b.a.l.l.s (bocconcini) (bocconcini) are also sold marinated in olive oil or smoked are also sold marinated in olive oil or smoked (affumicata) (affumicata). Even though the fresh and low-moisture versions have very different melting and flavor properties, they are often used interchangeably or in concert.My friend Paula Lambert, who owns the Mozzarella Company in Dallas, Texas, explained to me that in the world of fresh mozzarellas, there are two distinct production methods. One is the traditional method and the other is the deli (or direct-acidification) method. The traditional method uses cultures and enzyme-rich rennet to set the curds, while the deli method uses acids like vinegar or lemon juice. The difference is that the traditional method requires careful monitoring of the pH levels and allows the cheese to develop natural lactic acids through biological fermentation. The deli method is more foolproof, is faster, and yields a cheese with a more milky taste because the lactose in the curds is not transformed into lactic acid. Though the deli mozzarella is quite tasty, it does not melt as well as traditional mozzarella, nor does it have the complexity of flavor. This may be one reason why pizzas in Naples almost always seem to be a little better than Naples-style pizzas in America, where most of the fresh mozzarella is made by the deli method.Parmigiano-Reggiano: This member of the grana family comes from Emilia-Romagna, specifically the provinces of Parma, Bologna, Modena, Mantua, and Reggio Emilia. It has been made the same way for at least seven centuries from nonpasteurized cow's milk and is aged for at least nine months, but usually longer. This member of the grana family comes from Emilia-Romagna, specifically the provinces of Parma, Bologna, Modena, Mantua, and Reggio Emilia. It has been made the same way for at least seven centuries from nonpasteurized cow's milk and is aged for at least nine months, but usually longer.Pecorino Romano: Pecorino is a cheese made from sheep's milk. There are many types of pecorino cheeses, ranging from soft to hard, lean to rich, but pecorino Romano, from the region of Lazio, is a dry aged cheese with properties similar to the cheeses of the Parmesan family, yet with a sharper flavor. Pecorino is a cheese made from sheep's milk. There are many types of pecorino cheeses, ranging from soft to hard, lean to rich, but pecorino Romano, from the region of Lazio, is a dry aged cheese with properties similar to the cheeses of the Parmesan family, yet with a sharper flavor.Provolone: Not unlike an aged mozzarella, since it is made by the same method, provolone is a cow's milk cheese from southern Italy. The intensity of flavor is determined by how long it has been aged, and in what size and shape it has been molded. Not unlike an aged mozzarella, since it is made by the same method, provolone is a cow's milk cheese from southern Italy. The intensity of flavor is determined by how long it has been aged, and in what size and shape it has been molded.Ricotta: The word The word ricotta ricotta means "recooked," and true ricotta is not a cheese, but rather a cheese by-product. It is made by cooking the whey that is expelled from Parmesan and other cheeses, salvaging all the remaining tiny curds and milk solids that escaped the primary cheese. American ricotta is more like cottage cheese because it is a first-generation collection of curds from fresh milk, combined with whey. Ricotta has many applications, few of them on pizza, although it is being used more and more as a topping for white pizzas. means "recooked," and true ricotta is not a cheese, but rather a cheese by-product. It is made by cooking the whey that is expelled from Parmesan and other cheeses, salvaging all the remaining tiny curds and milk solids that escaped the primary cheese. American ricotta is more like cottage cheese because it is a first-generation collection of curds from fresh milk, combined with whey. Ricotta has many applications, few of them on pizza, although it is being used more and more as a topping for white pizzas.Robiola: A family of cheeses from northern Italy, each of which has a creamy texture and a delicate flavor. One fine example is A family of cheeses from northern Italy, each of which has a creamy texture and a delicate flavor. One fine example is robiola di Roccaverano robiola di Roccaverano, made from a combination of cow's and goat's milk in the Piedmont region.Stracchino: A generic term for a family of fresh, creamy cheeses of northern Italy, usually made from milk with a 50 percent b.u.t.terfat content. Among them are A generic term for a family of fresh, creamy cheeses of northern Italy, usually made from milk with a 50 percent b.u.t.terfat content. Among them are crescenza crescenza and Taleggio and Taleggio. Stracchino cheeses tend to be more acidic than American cream cheese and do not travel or age well. Any of the cheeses tend to be more acidic than American cream cheese and do not travel or age well. Any of the stracchino stracchino cheeses can be used for cheeses can be used for focaccia col formaggio di Recco focaccia col formaggio di Recco, depending on the time of year and availability.Taleggio: Another in the Another in the stracchino stracchino family of cheeses, Taleggio is named for a small town in Lombardy, near Bergamo. This cow's milk cheese is mild, very soft-sometimes almost runny-and high in b.u.t.terfat. family of cheeses, Taleggio is named for a small town in Lombardy, near Bergamo. This cow's milk cheese is mild, very soft-sometimes almost runny-and high in b.u.t.terfat.

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The Pizzas True Napoletana Napoletana pizza is experiencing a renaissance. Of course, it never went out of fashion in Naples, where it has been made much the same way for over 125 years. But when Neapolitan pizza took hold in the United States at the turn of the twentieth century, it took on a new style, what is called neo-Neapolitan, a long-used term that did not originate with me. Many pizzerias still describe their pizzas as Neapolitan, even though they bear no resemblance to those made in Naples. I think it is their way of saying, "We make a thin-crusted pizza." Ironically, I found the crust in the pizzerias in Naples not to be particularly thin, at least by American standards of the term, but instead somewhat breadlike, especially around the pizza is experiencing a renaissance. Of course, it never went out of fashion in Naples, where it has been made much the same way for over 125 years. But when Neapolitan pizza took hold in the United States at the turn of the twentieth century, it took on a new style, what is called neo-Neapolitan, a long-used term that did not originate with me. Many pizzerias still describe their pizzas as Neapolitan, even though they bear no resemblance to those made in Naples. I think it is their way of saying, "We make a thin-crusted pizza." Ironically, I found the crust in the pizzerias in Naples not to be particularly thin, at least by American standards of the term, but instead somewhat breadlike, especially around the cornicione cornicione, where it puffs up and has big air holes. This quality is extremely appealing and is what sets true Napoletana Napoletana pizza apart from American neo-Neapolitan, which may have a puffy edge, but rarely one with large, irregular holes and the cool, creamy texture of the original. pizza apart from American neo-Neapolitan, which may have a puffy edge, but rarely one with large, irregular holes and the cool, creamy texture of the original.

But most Americans have not eaten pizza in Naples, and if they have had a true Napoletana Napoletana pizza here, they are often less than enthusiastic about it. A few notable exceptions to this general apathy exist, such as what is typically said after a visit to Pizzeria Bianco and a growing number of newer pizza here, they are often less than enthusiastic about it. A few notable exceptions to this general apathy exist, such as what is typically said after a visit to Pizzeria Bianco and a growing number of newer Napoletana- Napoletana-style pizzerias like Pizzetta 211. But such reactions are rare indeed.

The reason why a Napoletana Napoletana pizza frequently elicits such cool responses is because the neo-Neapolitan is the definitive American pizza. People tend to like what they know. Even neo-Neapolitan has its subcategories, however. It is turned out in both independent and chain pizzerias. Domino's, Pizza Hut, Papa Gino's, Papa John's, and even frozen supermarket brands are all variations of the original Neapolitan pizza as it was reinterpreted in the United States. Even the so-called gourmet or California-style pizzas with their fancy toppings are just logical extensions of the American interpretation of Neapolitan pizza. pizza frequently elicits such cool responses is because the neo-Neapolitan is the definitive American pizza. People tend to like what they know. Even neo-Neapolitan has its subcategories, however. It is turned out in both independent and chain pizzerias. Domino's, Pizza Hut, Papa Gino's, Papa John's, and even frozen supermarket brands are all variations of the original Neapolitan pizza as it was reinterpreted in the United States. Even the so-called gourmet or California-style pizzas with their fancy toppings are just logical extensions of the American interpretation of Neapolitan pizza.

I have divided the neo-Neapolitan category into three subcategories, each of which has emerged as a distinctive style. The first generation neo-Neapolitan-variations on the sauce and mutz (mozzarella) style-leads the pack. Everybody I know has a favorite sauce and mutz pizzeria in their past. I grew up on the East Coast where many of the pizzerias were connected to first-generation immigrants. Tomato pie, as it was often known, with or without cheese, did not have to compete with chains and standardized concepts, so there were many local versions from which to choose. All of them, for better or for worse, made indelible impressions on the palate memories of anyone who patronized them.

The second generation neo-Neapolitan includes the pizzas from most of the pizza chains, independents (including those that use sourdough crusts), frozen pizzas, and even New Yorkstyle pizza, or pizza by the slice. Most of the pizza made and sold across the country is a distinctive American hybrid with a wide range of manifestations. For this reason, I think of this subcategory under the umbrella term pizza americana pizza americana, and have provided a recipe for an all-purpose dough under that name, as well as one for New Yorkstyle dough, which is similar. A rough working of the numbers would probably reveal this Americana Americana subcategory to be well over 90 percent of all pizza consumed in the United States. DiGiorno alone sells more than 350 million dollars worth of pizza a year, or over 65 million pies. Much as we love to rhapsodize about the legendary pizzas of our youth, or even of our present, this is the category that most people consume. Within this category, by the way, are some pretty impressive pizzas and pizzerias, not just middle-of-the-road chains. subcategory to be well over 90 percent of all pizza consumed in the United States. DiGiorno alone sells more than 350 million dollars worth of pizza a year, or over 65 million pies. Much as we love to rhapsodize about the legendary pizzas of our youth, or even of our present, this is the category that most people consume. Within this category, by the way, are some pretty impressive pizzas and pizzerias, not just middle-of-the-road chains.

The third generation neo-Neapolitan encompa.s.ses the increasingly popular gourmet-style pizza that was pioneered at Spago, California Pizza Kitchen, and many upscale restaurants. This style can be made on any type of dough, sometimes even on an original dough with an unusual flour combination. The focus, however, is usually more on the creativity of the topping than on the crust, and as a result the toppings are typically more time-consuming to prepare than they are for the other neo-Neapolitan pies. This subcategory is often called California-style pizza, even though it exists everywhere.

Some pizza genres don't fit into any of the neo-Neapolitan styles, such as Chicago deep-dish and stuffed pizzas; grilled pizza; focaccia, pizza al taglio pizza al taglio (otherwise known as "pizza by the meter"), and other thicker-crusted pizza types; the Sardinian (otherwise known as "pizza by the meter"), and other thicker-crusted pizza types; the Sardinian carta di musica carta di musica cracker-style crusts; and the traditional Greek pita variations, which may very well be the progenitor of cracker-style crusts; and the traditional Greek pita variations, which may very well be the progenitor of Napoletana Napoletana pizza. I provide recipes for all of these styles in the second half of the pizza chapter. pizza. I provide recipes for all of these styles in the second half of the pizza chapter.

Choosing a Dough These dough recipes are master recipes that will make excellent pizzas of any style. The main difference among them is the type and amount of flour and hydration. For example, some call for stronger (higher-protein) flour and less water, making them easier to handle and to stretch without tearing. Another difference is the addition of an enrichment such as olive oil, sugar, honey, or milk, all of which contribute flavor and texture. By applying the are master recipes that will make excellent pizzas of any style. The main difference among them is the type and amount of flour and hydration. For example, some call for stronger (higher-protein) flour and less water, making them easier to handle and to stretch without tearing. Another difference is the addition of an enrichment such as olive oil, sugar, honey, or milk, all of which contribute flavor and texture. By applying the long-fermentation principles long-fermentation principles, all of the dough recipes will produce crusts comparable to those found at quality pizzerias. In the recipes, I have indicated which dough to use with a specific topping, but you can mix and match them as you like, letting your flavor preferences and your comfort level with making a specific dough determine the final decision.

As you work with the doughs, you will find yourself drawn to certain ones, a preference that may change over time. Many people like to start with an easier-to-handle firmer, stronger dough, rather than a softer, stickier one like the cla.s.sic Napoletana. Napoletana. Each dough has its charms and challenges, and you should feel confident making any of the recipes within a short time. Each dough has its charms and challenges, and you should feel confident making any of the recipes within a short time.

Topping a Pizza Topping choices are as numerous and as creative as you wish, but I recommend first making a simple pizza of sauce and cheese to become comfortable with the process at its most prosaic. Then, feel free to top your pies as you like. Keep in mind that sometimes toppings are put on before baking, which is common for a Napoletana Napoletana pie, for example, and other times the toppings are added after the pizza is pulled from the oven, which protects the toppings from burning and makes a particularly beautiful presentation. pie, for example, and other times the toppings are added after the pizza is pulled from the oven, which protects the toppings from burning and makes a particularly beautiful presentation.

When topping any style of pizza, a harmony of flavors is the goal. Here are a few guidelines and suggestions to help you achieve that ideal marriage of flavors.

Consider the rule of three, which states that more than three toppings creates confusion, muddling the flavors. How you count to three is up to you. That is, you can count the sauce and cheese and then add three other toppings, or you can be a topping minimalist and count the sauce and cheese as two toppings and then limit yourself to one additional topping. Remember that more is not always better, however.

Always reach for good-quality vegetables, meats, and cheeses and don't disguise them. Sometimes just seasoning some simply roasted or sauteed garden-fresh vegetables with salt, pepper, and garlic will take them to the next level. Vegetables like mushrooms, peppers, and onions can be applied raw, but they will deliver better flavor and stay more tender if lightly sauteed or roasted first, a step that opens their cell walls, releasing excess moisture.

The better the cheese, the better the pizza, is an obvious principle. But not as obvious is the fact that more cheese does not always mean a better pizza. Nor does a blend of more cheeses always mean a better pizza. Some cheeses are perfect as they are, or maybe need just a small amount of another supporting cheese, such as full-fat mozzarella blended with a little a dry aged cheese. Dry aged cheeses do not melt like full-fat moist cheeses, such as mozzarella, Cheddar, or Jack. They are also saltier and more intense; plus, if too much is applied, they may burn before the pizza finishes baking. Smoked cheeses, which are growing in popularity, add a wonderful wood-fired flavor and are excellent on certain types of pizza.

While pepperoni is the most popular pizza topping (I recommend sauteing or even boiling it in advance to release some of the fat), there are some even better cured meats available. Generically known in Italy as salumi salumi, cured meats include the many varieties that we call Italian salami, of which pepperoni is but one. A few of my favorites are coppa coppa and Genoa salami, as well as and Genoa salami, as well as soppressata soppressata, a Calabrese-style salumi salumi that, along with other paprika and chileinfused cured meats from the south of Italy, were the forerunners of pepperoni (which was actually developed here in the United States). In addition to the Italian family of that, along with other paprika and chileinfused cured meats from the south of Italy, were the forerunners of pepperoni (which was actually developed here in the United States). In addition to the Italian family of salumi salumi, there are many other excellent spicy cured meats of Creole, Spanish, and Portuguese lineage, such as chaurice chaurice, chorizo, linguica, and andouille, not to mention the array of new sausage creations available at gourmet markets.

Even though ground beef is an everyday topping, it can be a great one, too. I like to cook it until it begins to brown and crisp, then I drain it well and season it with salt and pepper. I protect it on the pizza by placing it under the cheese, rather than on top. Using the cheese as a protective layer is a good trick with many toppings, including meats like smoked turkey and chicken, anchovies, and uncooked vegetables like onions, mushrooms, and bell peppers. I prefer to cook most vegetables lightly first (see above), but you if want to add them raw, top them with cheese for the best result.

And finally, don't use too much sauce, but don't use too little either. Also, make sure it is a good sauce-neither too thick nor too thin.

Shaping and Baking a PizzaBefore you start using the pizza recipes, read through the shaping and baking techniques that follow. Most of the pizzas are made essentially the same way, so it is good to familiarize yourself fully with these general instructions before you set to work.How a kitchen is equipped will vary among readers, so rather than explain every oven situation in each recipe, I have written the recipes for baking the pizza on a baking stone in a conventional home oven. If your kitchen setup is different, read the discussion of various oven situations discussion of various oven situations and make the necessary adjustments in the recipes. and make the necessary adjustments in the recipes.

1. There are many ways to shape pizza dough, some of them dictated by the wetness or strength of the dough. Dough made with high-gluten flour can be tossed and spun, while softer dough, made with all-purpose flour, is better shaped on a floured counter or gently over the knuckles.

2. Whether you are shaping the dough by the spin-and-toss method or on a counter, remove the dough from the refrigerator 2 hours before you plan to shape the crusts; this gives the yeast time to wake up and gives the dough greater extensibility.

3. To shape the dough by the toss-and-spin method, first place a bowl of flour near at hand. Dip your hands in the flour, being careful to the coat the back as well as the palm completely, and lay the dough on top of your knuckles, with the back of your hands serving as a platform of support. Gently pull and stretch, using only your knuckles and working only from the outer edge (the inside or center of the dough will follow on its own). Then toss the dough an inch or two off your hands, spinning it just slightly. When it lands back on your knuckles, gently stretch it out a bit more and repeat the toss, dusting your knuckles with more flour as needed to prevent sticking, until the dough achieves the desired diameter and thickness. Resist the urge to toss the dough high or to spin it wildly, at least until you have developed confidence in your feeling for its properties. Short tosses and spins may take longer, but they are less risky. The center of the dough will follow the gentle pull from the edges, becoming thinner and thinner. If you try to pull from the center instead of the edge, the dough will rip. The shaped dough should be slightly thicker around the edge than it is toward the center. It does not have to form a perfect circle.[image][image]

4. To shape the dough on a counter, have a bowl of flour near at hand and liberally dust the counter with flour. Lay the dough ball on the counter and roll it over so that the entire ball is coated with flour. Dip your hands in the bowl of flour to coat them thoroughly, and firmly but gently press down on the dough to flatten it into a disk about 1 inch thick. Using your fingertips, press into and around the edge of the dough, turning it as you do, and continue in a spiral fashion, turning and pressing as you work your way to the center of the disk. Stop occasionally to dust your hands and the counter with more flour as needed to prevent sticking. Hang the dough over the edge of the dusted counter so that half of it is suspended. Working with the portion of the dough still on the counter, use your fingertips to press around the inner lip of the dough, about inch from the edge, and continue rotating the disk; gravity will stretch it as you press and rotate. You may also lift the entire piece, drape it over your flour-dusted knuckles, and gently pull from the edges as you carefully rotate it. Continue until the dough has reached the desired diameter and thickness. The edge should be slightly thicker than the center. It does not have to form a perfect circle.

5. If during shaping the dough tears, you may be able to patch it by overlapping the torn edges. Be sure that there are no holes when you lay it down on the peel to apply the toppings. If the dough will not patch or if it becomes stuck while you are shaping it, just start over by re-forming it into a ball, rubbing it with oil, covering it with plastic wrap, and setting it aside for at least 30 minutes. While waiting, begin shaping another piece of dough.

6. If the shaped dough is going to be transferred from a peel to a baking stone, evenly dust the peel with flour, cornmeal, or semolina, or a combination of any two or all three, before laying the dough on it. When the dough is in place, jiggle the peel to be make sure the dough is not sticking to it. Wooden peels are better than metal peels for loading dough because the dough slides better on wood, but if all you have is metal, then by all means use it, making sure that it is well dusted. (Metal peels are better for removing pizzas from the oven because they are thinner and slip more easily between the crust and the oven deck.) If you do not have a peel, use an inverted sheet pan, dusting it well with flour. To transfer the dough to the baking stone, use short vibratory pulses, rather than one long jerking stroke. The pulsing method gives you more control if the dough should stick to the peel; a longer thrust may flip the dough over or send it beyond the baking stone.

7. Apply the sauce and toppings only after the dough is on the peel. Periodically jiggle the peel slightly to be sure the dough still slides. If it sticks, use a pastry blade or plastic sc.r.a.per to release the stuck part and sprinkle more flour under it.

8. If there is any doubt in your mind about your ability to slide the dough off the peel or sheet pan, cover the surface with baking parchment, mist the parchment with nonstick cooking spray, and set up the pizza on the parchment. It will then slide very easily off the peel onto the stone. After about 5 minutes in the oven, slip a metal spatula between the paper and the dough, pulling out the paper as you do.

9. To prepare the oven for baking, review the five oven situations five oven situations, and set yours up accordingly. Preheat the oven to its highest setting for at least 1 hour, occasionally turning on the broiler to heat the baking stone or other surface from above. The best placement for baking stones or pans will depend on your oven, so you may need to experiment a few times before you settle on the position. Until you figure it out, always have on hand a few extra dough b.a.l.l.s and topping ingredients in case you need to redo a pizza.

10. Baking times will vary from oven to oven and also from pizza to pizza. Wetter, thicker, or heavily topped dough takes longer than drier, thinner dough. Make note of the range of baking times for pizza in your oven for future reference. If your oven does not bake evenly, as is common, be prepared to rotate the pizza halfway though baking. If your topping is finished baking before the crust is sufficiently browned, you can buy a couple of extra minutes in the oven by loosely covering the top of the pizza with a sheet of aluminum foil, nonstick if possible, to protect the cheese or other topping.

11. Remove the pizza from the oven with a peel (preferably metal) if you have one, or with two long metal spatulas. If the pizza is a 9-inch Napoletana Napoletana-style pizza, you can serve it whole (usually 1 pizza per person); otherwise, let the pizza cool for a few minutes before slicing and serving.

12. Using an oven brush or a wadded paper towel, sweep off any flour, semolina, or cornmeal from the baking surface onto a baking pan or other receptacle. Allow a few minutes for the oven to recover its heat before loading another pizza.

NAPOLETANA-STYLE PIZZAS.

The following recipes are based on the authentic DOC pizzas of Naples and the variations they have inspired, both in Italy and abroad.

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PIZZA MARGHERITA.

Plain and simple, this is the standard by which every serious pizzaiolo pizzaiolo is judged. My favorite version of this pizza was easily the one made at the fabled Da Michele in Naples, where the dough was stretched out a couple of inches wider than at the other pizzerias we visited. The result is a thinner, slightly crisper crust, with the puffy is judged. My favorite version of this pizza was easily the one made at the fabled Da Michele in Naples, where the dough was stretched out a couple of inches wider than at the other pizzerias we visited. The result is a thinner, slightly crisper crust, with the puffy cornicione cornicione I've come to love. If it was easy to do everyone would be doing it, so start with a cla.s.sic 9-inch version, and as your skill develops, try stretching the dough out to 10 to 12 inches. I've come to love. If it was easy to do everyone would be doing it, so start with a cla.s.sic 9-inch version, and as your skill develops, try stretching the dough out to 10 to 12 inches.Makes two 9-inch pizzas2 Napoletana Napoletana Pizza Dough Pizza Dough b.a.l.l.s, 6 ounces each b.a.l.l.s, 6 ounces eachUnbleached all-purpose flour, cornmeal, or semolina flour, or a combination, for dusting peel cup Crushed Tomato Sauce Crushed Tomato Sauce16 fresh basil leaves pound fresh mozzarella cheese, preferably mozzarella di bufala mozzarella di bufala, sliced into rounds, coa.r.s.ely shredded, or cut into small chunks2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, pecorino Romano, Asiago, or other dry aged cheese (optional)1. Place a baking stone on the middle shelf of the oven (unless you know your oven well enough to place it on a different shelf) and preheat on the highest setting for at least 1 hour. Make 1 pizza at a time unless your peel and oven can accommodate both pizzas. Shape the dough ball on a counter on a counter, and transfer it to a peel or an inverted sheet pan that has been dusted with flour.2. Spread cup of the tomato sauce over the surface of the dough, leaving a -inch border uncovered. Place 4 basil leaves on top of the sauce, one in each quadrant. Arrange half of the mozzarella over the top of the sauce and basil, and sprinkle with 1 tablespoon of the grated aged cheese.3. Carefully slide the pizza from the peel onto the baking stone. It should take 7 to 9 minutes to bake. When it is done, the crust should be puffy and slightly charred on the edge and thinner in the center, and the cheese should be fully melted and just beginning to brown in spots. The underside of the crust should be brown and crisp, not white and soft. If the underside is not ready when the top is finished, lower the shelf for the next pizza.4. Remove the finished pizza from the oven and immediately lay 4 additional basil leaves on top, placing one in each quadrant but not directly on top of the previous basil leaves. Serve the pizza whole (usually 1 pizza per person), or let it cool for about 2 minutes before slicing and serving. Repeat with the remaining ingredients to make the second pizza.

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PIZZA ALLA MARINARA.

The predominant herb in this pizza should be oregano, and the distinguishing characteristic is the absence of cheese, at least of mozzarella cheese. I have had versions that include a sprinkle of a Parmesan-style or other hard grating cheese just prior to baking, which adds a nice flavor. Pizza without cheese is gaining in popularity, but I think it only works if the sauce is vibrant and the crust is superb. If you have All-Purpose All-Purpose Marinara Marinara Pizza Sauce Pizza Sauce on hand, you can use it here, although I prefer the Crushed Tomato Sauce with this pie. on hand, you can use it here, although I prefer the Crushed Tomato Sauce with this pie.Makes two 9-inch pizzas2 Napoletana Napoletana Pizza Dough b.a.l.l.s Pizza Dough b.a.l.l.s, 6 ounces eachUnbleached all-purpose flour, cornmeal, or semolina flour for dusting peel1 cup Crushed Tomato Sauce Crushed Tomato Sauce4 cloves garlic, slivered or thinly sliced cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, pecorino Romano, Asiago, or other dry aged cheese (optional)2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil1 teaspoon dried oregano or 2 teaspoons chopped fresh oregano leaves1. Place a baking stone on the middle shelf of the oven (unless you know your oven well enough to place it on a different shelf) and preheat on the highest setting for at least 1 hour. Make 1 pizza at a time unless your peel and oven can accommodate both pizzas. Shape the dough ball on a counter on a counter, and transfer it to a peel or an inverted sheet pan that has been dusted with flour.2. Spread cup of the tomato sauce over the surface of the dough, leaving a -inch border uncovered. Spread half of the garlic over the sauce, then top with 2 tablespoons of the grated cheese. Drizzle 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over the surface, spiraling it out from the center. Sprinkle half of the oregano evenly over the top.3. Carefully slide the pizza from the peel onto the baking stone. It should take 7 to 9 minutes to bake. When it is done, the crust should be puffy and slightly charred on the edge and thinner in the center. The underside of the crust should be brown and crisp, not white and soft. If the underside is not ready when the top is finished, lower the shelf for the next pizza.4. Remove the finished pizza from the oven and serve it whole (usually 1 pizza per person), or let it cool for about 2 minutes before slicing and serving. Repeat with the remaining ingredients to make the second pizza.

Pizza alla Puttanesca Variation Variation It is easy to give a cla.s.sic marinara marinara pizza a pizza a puttanesca puttanesca twist. twist. Puttanesca Puttanesca-in other words, "prost.i.tute style"-is the name given to a southern Italian spicy tomato sauce for pasta that usually includes capers, olives, chile flakes, and sometimes anchovies. Any combination of these, added either to the sauce or distributed over the top of the pizza before it goes into the oven, will give your pie a memorable zing.

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PIZZA QUATTRO STAGIONI.

The idea behind the cla.s.sic "four seasons" pizza is to evoke all of the seasons on a single pie-a form of tribute and thanks for the fruits of the earth enjoyed throughout the year. It makes a striking presentation. There are no rules as to what ingredients should represent each season, or limitations in terms of meats, fish, or vegetables. The following offers options from which you can choose, or you can subst.i.tute a favorite topping of your own.Makes two 9-inch pizzas3 Napoletana Napoletana Pizza Dough b.a.l.l.s Pizza Dough b.a.l.l.s, 6 ounces eachUnbleached all-purpose flour, cornmeal, or semolina flour for dusting peel cup All-Purpose All-Purpose Marinara Marinara Pizza Sauce Pizza Sauce3 ounces fresh mozzarella cheese (fior di latte) (fior di latte), cut into strips, or full-fat low-moisture mozzarella cheese, shredded cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, pecorino Romano, Asiago, or other dry aged cheeseSPRING: 8 asparagus tips, or cup sliced fresh or marinated artichoke hearts (if fresh, blanch the slices and saute lightly in olive oil with garlic)SUMMER: 1 small zucchini or yellow summer squash, cut into -inch-thick slices and blanched for 1 minute, or cup roasted red or yellow bell pepper or pimiento stripsFALL: 10 salt-brined Greek or Italian black olives or cup mushrooms, any kind, thinly sliced and lightly sauteed in olive oilWINTER: 1 potato, peeled, cut into -inch-thick slices, and blanched for 1 minute; 4 slices salami, each inch thick; or 2 thin slices prosciutto or other cured hamANY SEASON: 4 anchovy fillets, or 4 peeled shrimp lightly sauteed in olive oil2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil1. Place a baking stone on the middle shelf of the oven (unless you know your oven well enough to place it on a different shelf) and preheat on the highest setting for at least 1 hour. Make 1 pizza at a time unless your peel and oven can accommodate both pizzas. Shape the dough ball on a counter on a counter, and transfer it to a peel or an inverted sheet pan that has been dusted with flour. Two of the dough b.a.l.l.s are used for making the crusts. Divide the third ball into 4 equal pieces. Lightly flour the counter and your hands. Using your palms and working with 1 dough piece at a time, roll the piece back and forth on the floured surface until it forms a strand about 10 inches long. If it springs back, let it relax for 3 minutes and roll again. Set the 4 strands aside.2. Spread cup of the tomato sauce over the surface of the dough, leaving a -inch border uncovered. Using 2 dough strands, form a cross on top of the dough, dividing it into equal quadrants; the ends should extend just to the edge, but do not need to be crimped onto it. Distribute half of the mozzarella cheese equally among the quadrants, and then sprinkle 2 tablespoons of the grated aged cheese evenly over the mozzarella. Select 1 topping choice from each season, and place half of it in a quadrant. If using prosciutto for the winter quadrant, ripple the slice rather than laying it flat, and place it under the cheese, rather than on top. If using anchovies, you can place anchovy fillet in each quadrant, or 2 fillets in their own quadrant. Drizzle 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over the surface, spiraling it out from the center.3. Carefully slide the pizza from the peel onto the baking stone. It should take 7 to 9 minutes to bake. When it is done, the crust should be puffy and slightly charred on the edge and thinner in the center. The underside of the crust should be brown and crisp, not white and soft. If the underside is not ready when the top is finished, lower the shelf for the next pizza.4. Remove the finished pizza from the oven and serve it whole (usually 1 pizza per person), or let it cool for about 2 minutes before slicing and serving. Repeat with the remaining ingredients to make the second pizza.

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PIZZA ALLA PUGLIESE.

Apulia, which lies across the boot from Naples, has a glorious food tradition that includes pizzas built on the Napoletana Napoletana foundation. The following version gets its distinctive flavor from smoked cheese, such as smoked mozzarella, smoked provolone, or foundation. The following version gets its distinctive flavor from smoked cheese, such as smoked mozzarella, smoked provolone, or caciocavallo affumicato caciocavallo affumicato, a hard, smooth cow's milk cheese from southern Italy.Makes two 9-inch pizzas cup extra virgin olive oil cup sliced onion, any kind teaspoon salt2 Napoletana Napoletana Pizza Dough Pizza Dough b.a.l.l.s, 6 ounces each b.a.l.l.s, 6 ounces eachUnbleached all-purpose flour, cornmeal, or semolina flour for dusting peel6 ounces smoked cheese (see recipe introduction), grated or shreddedFreshly ground black pepper1. Place a baking stone on the middle shelf of the oven (unless you know your oven well enough to place it on a different shelf) and preheat on the highest setting for at least 1 hour.2. While the oven is heating, in a frying pan, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion and saute for 4 to 5 minutes, or until translucent. Season with the salt, remove from the heat, and let cool.3. Make 1 pizza at a time unless your peel and oven can accommodate both pizzas. Shape the dough ball on a counter on a counter, and transfer it to a peel or an inverted sheet pan that has been dusted with flour.4. Sprinkle half of the cheese evenly over the surface of the dough. Spread half of the sauteed onion on top. Drizzle 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over the surface, spiraling it out from the center. Sprinkle the top with pepper to taste.5. Carefully slide the pizza from the peel onto the baking stone. It should take 7 to 9 minutes to bake. When it is done, the crust should be puffy and slightly charred on the edge and thinner in the center. The underside of the crust should be brown and crisp, not white and soft. If the underside is not ready when the top is finished, lower the shelf for the next pizza.6. Remove the finished pizza from the oven and serve it whole (usually 1 pizza per person), or let it cool for about 2 minutes before slicing and serving. Repeat with the remaining ingredients to make the second pizza.

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