When I first caught hold of this eagle's nest, I feared that I had not much probability of finding any conveniences for travellers, and every step further confirmed this opinion. Ravandus was one of the most miserable towns I ever saw. Ali conducted me over a beggarly bazaar to a dirty court, which I took for a stable, but was the chan; and, after I had dismounted, took me into a dark recess, in which the merchant, to whom I had a letter, sat upon the ground before his stall. This merchant was the most considerable of his cla.s.s in Ravandus. Mr. Mansur, that was the merchant's name, read over the letter which I had brought, for full a quarter of an hour, although it only consisted of a few lines, and then greeted me with a repeated salaam, which means "you are welcome."

The good man must have concluded that I had not tasted any food today, for he very hospitably ordered breakfast immediately, consisting of bread, sheep's cheese, and melons. These were eaten all together. My hunger was so great that I found this plan excellent. I ate without ceasing. The conversation, on the contrary, was not so successful; my host did not understand any European language, nor I any Asiatic language. We made use of signs, and I took pains to make him understand that I was desirous of going on further as soon as possible. He promised to do his utmost for me, and also explained that he would see to me during my stay; he was not married, and therefore could not receive me into his own house, but would take me to one of his relations.

After breakfast was ended he took me to a house resembling those of the Arabs at Kerkil, except that the court-yard was very small, and completely filled with rubbish and puddles. Under the door-way, four ugly women with half-ragged clothes, were seated upon a dirty rug, playing with some little children. I was obliged to sit down with them, and undergo the usual curious examination and staring.

For some time I put up with it, but then left this charming society, and looked about for a place where I could arrange my toilette a little. I had not changed my clothes for six days, having been exposed, at the same time, to a heat which was far greater than that under the line. I found a dirty and s.m.u.tty room, which, in addition to the disgust it excited, made me fear the presence of vermin and scorpions; of the latter I had a particular dread. I thought at first that they were to be found in every place, as I had read in many descriptions of travels that they were innumerable in these countries. My fear lessened afterwards, as I did not meet with any, even in the dirtiest places; in ruins, court-yards, or sardabs.

Altogether I only saw two during my whole journey, but I suffered a great deal from other vermin, which are only to be removed by burning the clothes and linen.

I had scarcely taken possession of this beggarly room, when one woman after the other came in; the women were followed by the children, and then by several neighbours, who had heard of the arrival of an Inglesi; I was worse off here than under the gateway.

At last, one of the women luckily thought of offering me a bath, and I accepted the proposal with great joy. Hot water was prepared, and they made a sign for me to follow them, which I did, and found myself in the sheep-stall, which, perhaps, had not been cleaned for years, or indeed as long as it had stood. In this place they pushed two stones together, upon which I was to stand, and in the presence of the whole company, who followed me like my shadow, allow myself to be bathed with water. I made signs to them to go out, as I wished to perform this office myself; they did indeed leave me, but as misfortune had it, the stall had no door, and they were all able to look in just the same.

I pa.s.sed four days among these people, the day time in dark recesses, the evenings and nights upon the terraces. I was obliged, like my hostess, constantly to squat down on the ground, and when I wanted to write anything I had to make use of my knees instead of a table. Every day they told me there was a caravan going away to- morrow. Alas! they said so only to quiet me, they saw, perhaps, how disagreeable the stay was to me. The women lounged about the whole day sleeping or chattering, playing with, or scolding the children.

They preferred going about in dirty rags to mending and washing them, and they allowed their children to tyrannize over them completely.

When the latter wanted anything and did not get it, they threw themselves on the ground, struck about with their hands and feet, howling and shrieking until they obtained what they desired.

They had no fixed meal-times during the day, but the women and children were constantly eating bread, cuc.u.mbers, melons and b.u.t.termilk. In the evenings they bathed very much, and every one washed their hands, faces, and feet, which ceremony was frequently repeated three or four times before prayers; but there was a great want of real devotion: in the middle of the prayers they chattered right and left. However, there is not much difference with us.

Notwithstanding all these glaring and gross defects I found these people very amiable: they willingly permitted themselves to be taught, admitted their failings, and always allowed me to be right when I said or explained anything to them. For example, the little Ascha, a girl seven years of age was very intractable. If she was denied anything she threw herself on the ground, crying miserably, rolling about in the filth and dirt, and smearing with her dirty hands the bread, melons, etc. I endeavoured to make the child conscious of her misbehaviour, and succeeded beyond all expectation.

I, in fact, imitated her. The child looked at me astounded, upon which I asked if it had pleased her. She perceived the offensiveness of her conduct, and I did not often need to imitate her. It was just the same with regard to cleanliness. She immediately washed herself carefully, and then came running joyfully to me showing her hands and face. During the few days I was here the child became so fond of me that she would not leave my side, and sought in every way to make friends with me.

I was not less fortunate with the women; I pointed out their torn clothes, brought needles, and thread, and taught them how to sew and mend. They were pleased with this, and I had in a short time a whole sewing school round me.

How much good might be done here by any one who knew the language and had the inclination, only the parents must be taught at the same time as the children.

What a fine field is here open to the missionaries if they would accustom themselves to live among these people, and with kindness and patience to counteract their failings! As it is, however, they devote at the utmost only a few hours in the day to them, and make their converts come to them, instead of visiting them in their own houses.

The women and girls in the Asiatic countries receive no education, those in the towns have little or no employment, and are left to themselves during the whole day. The men go at sunrise to the bazaars, where they have their stalls or workshops, the bigger boys go to school or accompany their fathers, and neither return home before sunset. There the husband expects to find the carpets spread out on the terraces, the supper ready, and the nargilly lighted, he then plays a little with the young children, who, however, during meal-time are obliged to keep away with their mothers. The women in the villages have more liberty and amus.e.m.e.nt, as they generally take part in the housekeeping. It is said that the people in the country here are, as among ourselves, more moral than in the towns.

The dress worn by the richer Kurds is the Oriental, that of the common people differs slightly from it. The men wear wide linen trousers, over them a shirt reaching to the hips, and fastened round the waist by a girdle. They frequently draw on, over the shirt, a jacket without sleeves, made of coa.r.s.e brown woollen stuff, which is properly cut into strips of a hand's breath, and joined together by broad seams. Others wear trousers of brown stuff instead of white linen; they are, however, extremely ugly, as they are really nothing more than a wide shapeless sack with two holes, through which the feet are put. The coverings for the feet are either enormous shoes of coa.r.s.ely woven white sheeps' wool, ornamented with three ta.s.sels, or short, very wide boots of red or yellow leather, reaching only just above the ankle and armed with large plates an inch thick. The head-dress is a turban.

The women wear long wide trousers, blue shirts, which frequently reach half a yard over the feet, and are kept up by means of a girdle; a large blue mantle hangs from the back of the neck, reaching down to the calves. They wear the same kind of plated boots as the men. On their heads they wear either black kerchiefs wound in the manner of a turban, or a red fez, the top of which is very broad, and covered with silver coins arranged in the form of a cross. A coloured silk kerchief is wound round the fez, and a wreath made of short black silk fringe is fastened on the top. This wreath looks like a handsome rich fur-tr.i.m.m.i.n.g, and is so arranged that it forms a coronet, leaving the forehead exposed. The hair falls in numerous thin tresses over the shoulders, and a heavy silver chain hangs down behind from the turban. It is impossible to imagine a head dress that looks better than this.

Neither women or girls cover their faces, and I saw here several very beautiful girls with truly n.o.ble features. The colour of the skin is rather brown, the eyebrows and lashes were black, and the hair dyed reddish-brown with henna. Among the lower orders small nose rings are sometimes worn here.

Mr. Mansur furnished me with a very good table in the morning, I had b.u.t.termilk, bread, cuc.u.mber, and on one occasion dates roasted in b.u.t.ter, which, however, was not very palatable; in the evening mutton and rice, or a quodlibet of rice, barley, maize, cuc.u.mber, onions and minced meat. I found it all very good as I was healthy, and had a good appet.i.te. The water and b.u.t.termilk are taken very cold, and a piece of ice is always put into them. Ice is to be met with in abundance not only in the towns, but also in every village.

It is brought from the mountains in the neighbourhood, the people eat large pieces of it with great relish.

In spite of the endeavours of Mr. Mansur and his relations to render my stay bearable, or perhaps, indeed, pleasant, according to their ideas, I was agreeably surprised when Ali came one morning bringing the news that he had met with a small freight to Sauh-Bulak (seventy miles) a place which laid on my road. That same evening I went to the caravansary, and the next morning, 18th July, was on the road before sunrise.

Mr. Mansur was to the last very hospitable. He not only gave me a letter to a Persian living in Sauh-Bulak, but also provided me with bread for the journey, some melons, cuc.u.mbers, and a small bottle of sour milk. The latter was particularly acceptable to me, and I would advise every traveller to remember this nourishing and refreshing drink.

Sour milk is put into a small bag of thick linen, the watery part filters through, and the solid part can be taken out with a spoon, and mixed with water as desired. In the hot season, indeed, it dries into cheese on the fourth or fifth day, but this also tastes very well, and in four or five days you come to places where the supply may be renewed.

On the first day we pa.s.sed continually through narrow valleys between lofty mountains. The roads were exceedingly bad, and we were frequently obliged to cross over high mountains to pa.s.s from one valley into another. These stony valleys were cultivated as much as was possible. We halted at Tschomarichen.

19th July. The road and country was the same as those of yesterday, except that we had more hilly ground to ascend. We very nearly reached the height of the first snow region.

Towards evening, we came to Raid, a miserable place with a half- ruined citadel. Scarcely had we encamped, when several well-armed soldiers, headed by an officer, made their appearance. They spoke for some time with Ali, and at last the officer introduced himself to me, took his place at my side, showed me a written paper, and made several signs. As far as I could understand, he meant to say that I was now in Persia, and that he wanted to see my pa.s.sport.

However, I did not wish to take it out of my portmanteau in the presence of the whole of the villagers, who were already a.s.sembled round me, and, therefore, explained to him that I did not understand him. With this a.s.surance he left me, saying to Ali: "What shall I do with her? She does not understand me, and may go on further."

{279} I do not think that I should have been so leniently dealt with in any European state!

In almost every village, a great part of the people immediately a.s.sembled round me. The reader may imagine what a crowd had gathered together during this discussion. To be continually stared at in this way was one of the greatest inconveniences of my journey.

Sometimes I quite lost my patience, when the women and children pressed round me, handling my clothes and head. Although quite alone among them, I gave them several slight blows with my riding- whip. This always had the desired effect; the people either went away altogether or drew back in a ring. But here, a boy about sixteen was inclined to punish my boldness. As usual, I went to the river to fill my leathern flask, to wash my hands and face, and bathe my feet. This boy slipped after me, picked up a stone, and threatened to throw it at me. I dare not, of course, evince any fear; and I went, therefore, quite composedly into the river. The stone came flying, although I observed, by the way in which it was thrown, that he was more desirous of frightening than hitting me; it was not thrown with force, and fell several feet away. After throwing a second and third, he went away; perhaps because he saw that I did not heed him.

20th July. Immediately outside Raid, we had to ascend a rather considerable mountain by a bad and dangerous road, and then came out upon an extensive elevated plain. We left the high mountains further behind, the headlands were covered with short gra.s.s, but there was again a great deficiency of trees. We met great numbers of herds of goats and sheep. The latter were very large, with thick wool and fat tails; the wool is said to be particularly good and fine.

My apprehensions on this journey were not quite groundless, as it was seldom that a day pa.s.sed in undisturbed quiet. Today, for instance, a circ.u.mstance occurred which frightened me not a little: our caravan consisted of six men and fourteen pack animals; we were quietly pursuing our way, when suddenly a troop of mounted men came dashing down upon us at full gallop. There were seven well-armed, and five unarmed. The former carried lances, sabres, daggers, knives, pistols, and shields; they were dressed like the common people, with the exception of the turban, which was wound round with a simple Persian shawl. I thought they had been robbers. They stopped and surrounded us, and then inquired where we came from, where we were going to, and what kind of goods we carried? When they had received an explanation, they allowed us to go on. At first I could not understand the meaning of the proceeding at all; but, as we were stopped several times in the course of the day in a similar manner, I concluded that these men were soldiers on duty.

We remained at Coromaduda over night.

21st July. The roads and prospects very similar to those of yesterday. We were again stopped by a troop of soldiers, and this time the affair seemed likely to be of more consequence. Ali must have made some incorrect statements. They took possession of both of his pack animals, threw their loads down on the ground, and one of the soldiers was ordered to lead them away. Poor Ali begged and entreated most pitifully. He pointed to me, and said that everything belonged to me, and requested that they should have some compa.s.sion with me as a helpless woman. The soldier turned to me and asked if it was true. I did not think it advisable to give myself out as their owner, and therefore appeared not to understand him, but a.s.sumed an air of great concern and trouble. Ali, indeed, began to cry. Our position would have been most desperate; for, what could we have done with the goods in this barren uninhabited district without our animals. At last, however, the leader of the party relented, sent after the animals, and returned them to us.

Late in the evening, we reached the little town of Sauh-Bulak. As it was not fortified, we could still enter; however, the chans and bazaars were all closed, and we had much trouble to get the people of one of the chans to receive us. It was very s.p.a.cious and handsome; in the centre was a basin of water, and round it small merchants' stalls and several niches for sleeping. The people--all men--were mostly retired to rest; only a few remained at their devotions. Their astonishment may be imagined when they saw a woman enter with a guide. It was too late to give my letter today, and I therefore seated myself composedly against the luggage, in the belief that I should have to pa.s.s the night so; but a Persian came to me and pointed out a niche to sleep in, carried my luggage there, and, after a little while, brought me some bread and water. The kindness of this man was the more admirable, as it is known how much the Mahomedans hate the Christians. May G.o.d reward him for it. I was truly in want of this refreshment.

22nd July. Today I presented my letter, and the Persian merchant received me with a welcome. He conducted me to a Christian family, and promised to make arrangements for the continuation of my journey as soon as possible. In this instance, also, the conversation was carried on more by the means of signs than words.

There were twenty Christian families in this town, who are under the care of a French missionary and have a very pretty church. I looked forward with pleasure to conversing again in a language with which I was familiar, but learnt that the missionary was on a journey, so that I was not better off than at Ravandus, as the people with whom I lived spoke only Persian.

The man, whose trade was that of a carpenter, had a wife, six children, and an apprentice. They all lived in the same room, in which they gave me a place with great readiness. The whole family were uncommonly good and obliging towards me, were very open- hearted, and if I bought fruit, eggs, or anything of the kind, and offered them any, they accepted it with great modesty. But it was not only towards myself that they were so kind, but also towards others; no beggar went away from their threshold unrelieved; and yet this family was terrible, and made my stay a complete purgatory.

The mother, a very stupid scolding woman, bawled and beat her children the whole day. Ten minutes did not pa.s.s without her dragging her children about by the hair, or kicking and thumping them. The children were not slow in returning it; and, besides that, fought among themselves; so that I had not a moment's quiet in my corner, and was not unfrequently in danger of coming in for my share, for they amused themselves by spitting and throwing large blocks of wood at each other's heads. The eldest son several times throttled his mother in such a way that she became black and blue in the face. I always endeavoured, indeed, to establish peace; but it was very seldom that I succeeded, as I was unfortunately not sufficient master of the language to make them understand the impropriety of their conduct.

It was only in the evening, when the father returned, that there was any order of peace; they dare not quarrel then, much less fight.

I never met with such conduct among any people--even the poorest or lowest cla.s.ses of the so-called heathens or unbelievers; I never saw their children attempt to strike their parents. When I left Sauh- Bulak, I wrote a letter for the missionary, in which I directed his attention to the failings of this family, and besought him to counteract them, by teaching them that religion does not consist merely in prayers and fasts, in bible-reading, and going to church.

My stay here was far less bearable than at Ravandus. I daily entreated the Persian merchant to help me to go on further, even if the journey should be attended with some danger. He shook his head and explained to me, that there was no caravan going, and that if I travelled alone I might expect either to be shot or beheaded.

I bore it for five days, but it was impossible to do so any longer.

I begged the merchant to hire me a horse and a guide, and made up my mind at least to go as far as Oromia, fifty miles, in spite of all dangers or other circ.u.mstances. I knew that I should find American missionaries there, and that I should then have no more anxiety about proceeding on further.

The merchant came on the following day, accompanied by a wild- looking man, whom he introduced to me as my guide. I was obliged, in consequence of the danger of travelling without a caravan, to pay four times as much; but I was willing to accede to anything to be able to get away. The bargain was made, and the guide pledged himself to start the next morning, and to bring me to Oromia in three days. I paid him half of the money in advance, and retained the other half until we came to our journey's end, so as to be able to fine him in case he did not keep his agreement.

I was partly glad and partly afraid when the contract was concluded, and to overcome my apprehensions, I went into the Bazaars, and walked about outside the town.

This town is situated in a small treeless valley near a range of hills. Although I did not wear anything but the isar, I was never annoyed out of doors. The bazaars are less beggarly than those at Ravandus, the chan is large and comfortable. I found the appearance of the common people very repulsive. Tall and strongly built, with marked features, which were still more disfigured by an expression of wildness and ferocity, they all appeared to me like robbers or murderers.

In the evening I put my pistols in proper order, and made up my mind not to sell my life cheaply.

28th July. Instead of leaving Sauh-Bulak at sunrise, I did not start until towards mid-day. I travelled on with my guide through desolate roads between treeless hills, and trembled involuntarily when any one met us. However, thank G.o.d, there were no adventures to go through. We had to fight indeed, but only with tremendous swarms of large gra.s.shoppers which flew up in some places in clouds.

They were about three inches long, and were furnished with large wings of a red or blue colour. All the plants and gra.s.s in the district were eaten away. I was told that the natives catch these gra.s.shoppers and dry and eat them. Unluckily I never saw any such dish.

After a ride of seven hours we came to a large fruitful and inhabited valley. Today's journey seemed to promise a favourable termination, for we were now in an inhabited neighbourhood, and frequently pa.s.sed villages. Some peasants were still working here and there in the fields, their appearance greatly amused me: they wore the high black Persian caps, which were comically contrasted with their ragged dress.

We remained in this valley, over night, at the village Mahomed-Jur.

If I had not been too idle I might have had an excellent meal of turtle. I saw several of them on the road by the brooks, and even in the fields, and had only to pick them up. But then to hunt for wood, make a fire, and cook! No; I preferred eating a crust of bread and a cuc.u.mber in quiet.

29th July. This morning we reached, in three hours, the village of Mahomed-Schar. To my astonishment my driver made preparations for stopping here. I urged him to continue the journey, but he explained to me that he could not go any further without a caravan, as the most dangerous part of the journey was now before us. At the same time he pointed to some dozens of horses in an adjoining stubble field, and endeavoured to make me understand that in a few hours a caravan was going our way. The whole day pa.s.sed, and the caravan did not appear. I thought that my guide was deceiving me; and was exceedingly irritated when, in the evening, he arranged my mantle on the ground for me to sleep. It was now necessary that I should make a strenuous effort to show the fellow that I would not be treated like a child, and remain here as long as he thought fit.