A Portrait of Old George Town - Part 10
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Part 10

The bridge over Rock Creek at Bridge (M) Street, was built in 1788, and one night when a storm of wind and rain was raging, gave way while a stage-coach was pa.s.sing over it. The coach was precipitated into the water but only the driver and the horses were drowned. Ever afterwards it was said that on stormy nights the ghost of the driver haunted the spot.

Peter Casanave had a stone house near the bridge and close by was the house of the French's. Mrs. French had been Arianna Scott, sister of Mrs. Robert Peter. The house, which is still remembered by many old residents, was a fine, large brick mansion of the prevailing type at that time.

It was surrounded by trees--some of them being cherries--and a garden.

One large room was hung with very unusual paper representing scenes of Indian life. It is still remembered by a gentleman who lived there when he was quite young, who says he remembers pa.s.sing when the house was being demolished and again admired the very handsome and remarkable paper. At that time the place was entered by a gate from the Pennsylvania Avenue side, and then there was a flight of steps to reach M Street on the other side.

Mrs. French evidently owned several houses nearby, for she advertised:

For sale or rent:

The house opposite the Bank of Columbia lately occupied by Mrs.

Suter, and the house lately occupied by John M. Gantt, Esqur., adjoining Dr. Weem's house are for sale or rent. The house opposite the bank is very eligibly situated for a commercial character having an excellent storeroom and counting room with every convenient compartment for a private family. The house adjoining Dr. Weems' can accomodate very comfortably a small family and from its situation will soon be very valuable. The terms of sale or rent may be known on application to Dr. Weems.

9th January 1799 A. FRENCH.

Also, Mrs. Pick had a millinery store just about here.

On the corner of Bridge (M) and Greene (29th) Streets, was where David Reintzel lived, who was mayor several times.

A block or two further west, on the north side of the street, stood the very modest home of Jacob Schoofield, the Quaker with whom William Wirt was put to board when he was sent in 1779 to George Town to attend school. He speaks of how Mrs. Schoofield comforted him the first night he was there, a home-sick little boy, by telling him the story, from the Bible, of Joseph being sold by his brother and carried off into Egypt.

He said "I remember, also, to have seen a gentleman, Mr. Peter, I think, going out gunning for canvas-backs, then called white-backs, which I have seen whitening the Potomac and which, when they arose, as they sometimes did for half a mile together, produced a sound like thunder."

Just a few doors from this house was the famous Union Tavern, of which I have already said so much. The building was standing until a few years ago when it was replaced by a filling station. When it became Crawford's Hotel after John Suter, Jr., gave it up, again William Wirt comes into the picture:

Here I am at Crawford's. I am surrounded by a vast crowd of legislators and gentlemen a.s.sembled for the races, which are to commence tomorrow. The races amidst the ruins and desolation of Washington.

These gentlemen used to ride to and from the capitol in a large stage-coach with seats on top called the "Royal George."

Among the other notable guests of the old hostelry were Louis Philippe, Jerome Bonaparte, Talleyrand, ex-Bishop of Autun when he was driven from France, John Adams, when as President in the early summer of 1800, he came down to look over his new field; Anthony Merry, Minister from England to the United States; Washington Irving, Count Volney, Humbolt, the geographer; Robert Fulton, the inventor of the steamboat; Lorenzo Dow, the eccentric preacher; several young naval officers from the Tripolitan War; and John Randolph of Roanoke. I wonder if it was from this old tavern that that brilliant but erratic statesman went out across the Chain Bridge to fight his duel with Henry Clay? It is recorded by a marker, just at the end of the bridge on the Virginia side, and reads thus: "Near here Henry Clay and John Randolph of Roanoke fought a duel April 8, 1826. Randolph had called Clay a 'Blackleg' in a speech. Both men were unhurt, but Randolph's coat was pierced by a bullet."

John Randolph spent the night before the duel in quoting poetry and playing whist while his will was being amended.

John Randolph must have liked George Town, for years afterwards when he lay very ill in his boarding place on Capitol Hill, he insisted on his body servant, Juba, getting him some water from George Town, no other would do. He called it "The water of Chios."

Joseph Crawford, the proprietor of this hotel, was the princ.i.p.al manager in the unloading of the records and furniture belonging to the government when the ships bringing it from Philadelphia docked at Lear's Wharf. Abraham Bradley, who, as a.s.sistant Postmaster General, had charge of the removal of that department, and Joseph Nourse, who was Registrar of the Treasury, may also have stopped at Crawford's until settled in their homes.

Just opposite on the southeast corner of Bridge (M) and Washington (30th) Streets stood, until 1878, the Presbyterian Church, whose founder, Dr. Stephen Bloomer Balch, was its pastor for fifty-two years.

When it was first built in 1782, it was only about thirty feet square.

In 1793 it was enlarged by extending the north front. In 1801-'02, it was further enlarged by extending it on the west side. For this purpose Thomas Jefferson helped by subscribing $75.00. In 1806 the trustees of the congregation were incorporated by Congress. They were: Stephen B.

Balch, William Whann, James Melvin, John Maffitt, John Peter, Joshua Dawson, James Calder, George Thompson, Richard Elliott, David Wiley, and Andrew Ross. The first and only elder for some time was James Orme, son of Reverend John Orme, of Upper Marlborough. In 1821 a new building was erected. When Dr. Balch died in 1833, he was buried there, but when the congregation moved in 1878 and the church was torn down, his remains were taken to Oak Hill, where, with the original gravestone, they lie not far from the chapel and just north of the grave of John Howard Payne.

[Ill.u.s.tration: OLD PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH]

On the northwest corner of Bridge (M) and Washington (30th) Streets lived a Mr. Lee; probably Thomas Sim Lee, whose home was the gathering place for the Federalists. Just beyond here, still on the north side where the two lovely old carved doorways remain unchanged, are the houses once owned by Henry Addison, who served as mayor of the Town from 1845 to 1857 and again from 1861 to 1867. He was a hardware merchant, and in 1827 it was for him that the first steam fire engine was named.

Mr. Hill lived in one of these houses and next door on the east lived Mr. Vanderwerken. He owned the line of omnibuses that ran along Bridge (M) Street and over to the city before there were street cars. The omnibuses bore the names of prominent people.

There was a pump in the back yard on the line between these two houses.

On each side of the fence was a handle on the pump so that it could be worked by both families. The water flowed smoothly until something caused a fuss between the two men, and one day, when Mr. Hill, who was a very large man, protruded over the fence, Mr. Vanderwerken got out his shotgun and peppered his shoulder!

Across the street at number 3012 lived John Abbott, who came from Philadelphia with the transfer of the government in 1800.

At number 3016 lived John Mountz who was Clerk of the Corporation for sixty-seven years, from the time of its beginning in 1789 up to 1856.

Across the street again is the quaint little Stone House which has caused so much discussion. For many years tradition had said it was there that Major L'Enfant had his headquarters while he was mapping the new capital city. Then, someone said it had never been proved. So now we are waiting for proof. From its looks it was most certainly standing in those early days. If only it could speak and tell its own history!

We do know it was bought as lot 3 in June, 1762, by John Boone for one pound, ten shillings. Two years later, as he had not improved it, it was bought by Christopher Leyhman for the same amount, and presumably, a house was built about that time. Apparently, by inheritance, it came to Rachel Furvey (formerly Rachel Leyhman), and in June, 1767, by deed, it became the property of Ca.s.sandra Chew, who made it over to her two daughters, Harriot, who married Richard Bruce, and Mary, who first married Richard Smith, and later, Mr. Bromley. Mary's daughter, Barbara Smith, married John Suter, Jr., and they lived in this house. This is supposed to have something to do with the claim that has been made that this building on lot 3 was Suter's Tavern.

Almost next door on the west Mr. Claggett had a house. Again, across the street, on the southeast corner, is the building which, until recent years, housed the Farmers and Mechanics Bank. It was founded in 1814.

When the Mexican War came, this bank enabled the government to pay the war debt. It has now been absorbed by the Riggs National Bank and moved further up the street. Before the building of the bank, John Peter, a nephew of Robert Peter, had a house on that corner. His house was a simple frame one, and back of it he had rabbit warrens and pigeon houses. He used to go often in the evenings the short distance to his uncle Robert's house for a game of whist, of which the old gentleman was very fond.

Just above Bridge (M) Street on Congress (31st) Street stands the Georgetown post office, an imposing granite building. It is also the custom house of the District of Columbia.

Near the corner of Congress (31st) Street lived W. King, and at number 3119 was the house Thomas Corcoran built. He had come from Limerick, Ireland, to Baltimore in 1783 and entered business with his uncle, William Wilson, there. Soon after his marriage to Hannah Lemon, of Baltimore County, he came to George Town, intending to go on to Richmond, but being so impressed with the thriving little town, he decided to settle here. He first rented a house on Congress (31st) Street below Bridge (M) from Robert Peter, and started a business in leather. In 1791 he built this three-story house and there lived for many years. He was mayor five different terms from 1805, and also magistrate and postmaster for fifteen years until his death in 1830. It was in this house that a meeting was held in 1817 to found Christ Church.

The Union Bank was on the north side of this block.

On the southwest corner of Bridge (M) and High Street (Wisconsin Avenue) is the site of Gordon's Inspection House, and just west of here in 1791 were three large tobacco sheds covering three acres. Here was the "Warehouse Lot," used by circuses when they came to town.

Close by was the big warehouse of John Laird. It was after his death in 1833 that the trade in tobacco began to decline.

[Ill.u.s.tration: GENERAL JAMES MACCUBBIN LINGAN]

[Ill.u.s.tration: BENJAMIN STODDERT]

[Ill.u.s.tration: URIAH FORREST]

From 1792 to 1795, number 3221 was the home of Dr. William Thornton, the architect of the Capitol; the Octagon House, built by John Tayloe; of Tudor Place, and also of Woodlawn. He was later the first Superintendent of Patents from 1802 until 1807.

The old market stands where there always has been a market. Its upper stories used to be where the meetings of the Corporation of George Town were held.

At number 3300 was the home of Paymaster David Whann.

Midway between Market (33rd) and Frederick (34th) Streets, on the north side of Bridge (M) Street, General James Maccubbin Lingan had a large piece of property. I wonder if this advertis.e.m.e.nt inserted in a newspaper on April 22, 1801, describes this very place:

The subscriber offers for sale the houses and lots where he now resides. The improvements are a commodious dwelling house, office, kitchen, wash house, meat house, carriage house, a stable for five horses, likewise a large and well cultivated garden and clover lot.

He will also sell the upper wharf and warehouses, all of which have been lately built and well situated for receiving produce that may come down the river.

J. M. LINGAN.

General Lingan was of noted Scotch ancestry, the second child of Dr.

Lingan. He was born in 1751, in Frederick County, Maryland. On his mother's side he was related to the Maccubbins, and to the Carrolls of Maryland. He came to George Town as quite a young man and went directly into the tobacco warehouse of a relative. In 1776 he was commissioned a lieutenant in the army. After the victory of the Battle of Long Island, he was captured at Fort Washington on November 16, 1776, his breast being pierced by a bayonet at that time. He was sent as a prisoner aboard the _Jersey_--the "h.e.l.l," as she was called. The conditions on board were terrific, and many of the prisoners died. When the coffin was brought for the body of one of his friends, it was found to be too short--the guards started to decapitate the body to make it fit. Young Lingan stood over the body and said he would kill them with his bare hands. So they brought a larger coffin.

While he was still a prisoner there, his cousin, Admiral Sir Samuel Hood, of His "Satanic" Majesty's Navy, as Lingan called it, visited him and offered him 2,000 (pounds) and high rank in the British Army if he would return to his former allegiance. Lingan's answer was, "I'll rot here first!" And he almost did! He was cooped up in a s.p.a.ce so short that he could not lie full length, so low that he could not stand erect.

It was many months after his release before his cramped and agonized muscles allowed him to sleep except in an armchair.

The reasons for wishing to obtain his defection were, first, the pride, and perhaps, affection of his connections in England. Lord North, himself, was one of these, and his cousin, Zachariah Hood was _persona gratia_ at the Court of St. James. Also, the affiliations and connections of his family in Maryland made his defection greatly to be desired. One of his sisters had married Thomas Plater, the son of Governor George Plater of Sotterley, and he was also related to the prominent Carroll family.

At the conclusion of the war, General Lingan returned to George Town and farmed two estates he owned, both named after battles in which he had partic.i.p.ated--Harlem and Middlebrook. He also was appointed collector of the port by General Washington himself. He was one of the original members of the Order of the Cincinnati.