AMOUNT OF SEED TO PURCHASE FOR FAMILY OF SIX[2]

-------------------------+------------------------ Vegetable

Amount to purchase -------------------------+------------------------

Asparagus

66 plants Beans, snap (in variety)

2 to 3 pounds Beans, bush lima

1 pound Beet

4 ounces Cabbage:

Early

1 packet Late

1/2 ounce Carrot

1 ounce Cauliflower

1 packet Celery

1 packet Corn, sweet

2 pounds Cuc.u.mber

1 ounce Eggplant

1 packet Kale

1 ounce Lettuce

1/2 ounce Muskmelon

1 ounce Onion sets

4 quarts Onion seed

1 ounce Peas

2 to 4 pounds Parsley

1 packet Parsnip

1 ounce Radish (in variety)

2 ounces Rhubarb

20 plants Salsify

1 ounce Spinach

1 pound New Zealand spinach

1 ounce Summer pumpkin

1 ounce Winter pumpkin

2 ounces Squash

2 ounces Tomatoes

1 packet or 50 plants Turnip

4 ounces Rutabaga

1 ounce Watermelon

2 ounces -------------------------+------------------------

_Planning and Operating a Home Garden._--In planning the home vegetable garden there are a few essential points to be kept in mind. The time to plan the garden is in winter when adequate consideration can be given to the selection of those vegetables that the family likes best and can use in large amounts. Seeds required should be ordered early for the entire garden. By drawing the plan of the garden on paper and following it, the procedure is simplified and the most efficient results attained.

Vegetables should be planted in rows rather than in beds, and those maturing at about the same time should be grouped together to facilitate succession planting. After the early-maturing crops have been harvested, other crops can be sown on the same area, thus fully utilizing the land throughout the growing season. Perennial crops, including asparagus and rhubarb, should be kept by themselves.

A practical farmer wanting to express perfection in soil preparation is apt to say, "It is just like a garden." This implies good fertility, optimum moisture conditions and proper tilth. To attain these conditions in garden soil it is desirable to cover it with strawy manure some time previous to plowing, in order that rains may carry the soluble fertility elements into the surface inches of the soil. In the early spring a thorough job of plowing or spading should be done to reasonable depth, completely covering the surface straw or dead plants. Every two or three years lime should be applied after plowing and worked into the top soil at the rate of 1 pound of hydrated lime to every 25 square feet of soil.

_Fertilizing and Culture._--The fertility supplied through application of manure should be supplemented by the use of commercial fertilizer. This can be purchased in burlap bags from local supply agencies and should contain about 5 per cent nitrogen, 8 per cent phosphoric acid and 7 per cent potash. Moderate variations in a.n.a.lysis from 5-8-7, as above, are not important so long as the amounts of each element are well balanced. The fertilizer should be broadcast over the garden after plowing, at the rate of 1 pound to every 25 square feet and worked into the soil before planting. Poultry or sheep manure may be used as top dressing to alternate with commercial fertilizer. It should be borne in mind that such animal manures are richer in nitrogen than in other elements and if used to excess may stimulate leaf growth at the expense of yield and quality.

Frequent shallow cultivations are desirable. The ordinary wheel hoe will be found helpful in the cultivating procedure. It should be well understood that cultivation is essential to prevent weed growth and conserve moisture.

If watering or irrigating is necessary in dry weather, it should be thoroughly done. One soaking of the soil to a depth of 4 to 6 inches is far more effective than frequent light sprinklings. The latter may be more harmful than beneficial through reestablishing capillary movement, permitting the escape of subsoil moisture. Water should be applied under the same conditions that apply when rain falls--on cloudy days or after sunset to prevent "baking" or encrusting of the surface soil as well as to conserve the amount of water needed.

_Meeting the Insect Problem._--The sponsor of a garden in which diversified vegetables are grown must be prepared to meet the onslaught of equally diversified insect species. While it is true that insects are multiplying as to species and voraciousness, it is equally true that methods of control are becoming available to cope adequately with most of them. One unfamiliar with our insect infestations will be amazed to find that certain species apparently have had advance notice of his intentions and are sitting about the planted rows awaiting the appearance of the tender shoots.

One of the best methods of combating insects is to create ideal conditions for plant growth. Plants that are underfed through inadequate soil fertility or are weakened by other causes suffer severely from insect attack, while vigorous plants will come through with much less damage. It is advisable to insure rapid germination of seed through careful soil preparation, to seed at the proper time for a quick and vigorous start and to have sufficient available fertility to stimulate growth once the plants have started.

There are two distinct cla.s.ses of insects, the division being based upon their feeding habits. The larger group, both in the size of the insects themselves and in the number of species, is the leaf-chewing group. These can be destroyed by the application of stomach poisons to the plants under attack. The other group consists of the sucking insects, which penetrate the veins carrying nourishment to the leaves and appropriate it for themselves. Such insects multiply with extreme rapidity, generally feed on the underside of the leaves and may cause complete wilting of the plant before their presence is suspected. In such cases a "contact" spray or dust must be used. This is based on the principle of causing the insect to "inhale" the material through breathing pores along its body. The insecticide must be composed of extremely fine particles or must be of such an oily nature that it will readily penetrate such pores. In addition to these, certain repellent materials are being developed which cause the insect to seek food where the disagreeable conditions do not prevail.

TABLE III

PRINc.i.p.aL INSECTS AND REMEDIES[3]

-----------------+--------------+---------------+--------------------- Plants attacked

Chewing

Character

Treatment

insects

of damage

-----------------+--------------+---------------+--------------------- Tomato, pepper,

Flea Beetles

They gnaw or

Dust or spray with eggplant, turnip,

eat small holes

a prepared nicotine cabbage, etc.

in the leaves.

or pyrethrum mixture.

Bordeaux mixture

sprayed, or dusting

for disease is also

effective as

a repellent.

Asparagus

Asparagus

Feeds on the

Dust with either

Beetle

shoots and

a.r.s.enate of lead or

brush.

calcium a.r.s.enate,

mixed with 1 part of

wheat flour. Spray

with a.r.s.enate of lead

or calcium a.r.s.enate,

1 tablespoonful if a

paste or 1/2

tablespoonful if a

powder, and 1

tablespoonful of lime

to 1 gallon of water.

All kinds of

Mexican Bean

Eats the under

Dust with 1 part of beans

Beetle

side of leaves

magnesium a.r.s.enate

mixed with 3 parts of

lime, or dust the

yellow larva under

the leaves with a

pyrethrum dust.

{

Cabbage Maggot

Keep the ground {

thoroughly cultivated {

around the base of Early cabbage {

the plant or use tar and cauliflower {

paper discs for {

larger plantings.

{

{

Common Cabbage

Feed on the

Same as for asparagus {

Worm

shoots and

beetle. Pyrethrum {

and Cabbage

brush.

dust is also very {

Looper

effective.

Cuc.u.mber, squash,

Striped

Eats the leaves

Protect with a and melons.

Cuc.u.mber

and the stem of

cheesecloth or do the

Beetle

the very young

same as for the

plants.

asparagus beetle.

Pumpkins and

Squash Vine

Kills the vines

Take a sharp squashes

Borer

by eating in

thin-bladed penknife

the stem.

and slit the stem

lengthwise, opening

it and killing the

borer. Then bank the

ground around the

stem of the plant.

Tomato, eggplant,

Potato Beetle

Eats the

Same as for Cabbage potato

leaves.

Worm.

Tomato

Tomato Horn

Eats the

Same as for Common

Worm

leaves.

Cabbage Worm.

Tomato fruits

Tomato Fruit

Eats the tomato

Same as for Cabbage

Worm

fruits.

Worm.

Tomato, eggplant,

Cutworms

Cut the plants

Protect with paper pepper, cabbage,

off near

collars placed and other crops.

the surface

around the stem of

of the ground.

the plant, extending

2 or 3 inches above

the ground, or

distribute poisoned

bran mash, placing

it near the plant.

Thoroughly mix

2 level

tablespoonfuls of

paris green in

5 pounds of dry bran,

then add from 4 to 6

quarts of water in

which 1/2 pint of

cheap mola.s.ses has

been mixed. Cutworms

work at night,

therefore apply the

mash in the late

afternoon or

evening.

-----------------+--------------+---------------+--------------------- Plants attacked

Sucking

Character

Treatment

insects

of damage

-----------------+--------------+---------------+--------------------- Tomato, potato,

Leaf Hopper

Feeds under the

Dust or spray with strawberries,

leaf, causing

a prepared nicotine and beans.

a whitening and

or pyrethrum mixture.

curve of the

Bordeaux mixture is

leaves with

also effective as

a dying of the

a repellent.

edges.

Practically all

Aphis

Sucks the

Either dust or spray garden vegetable

(plant lice)

juices on the

with a nicotine or plants.

under side of

pyrethrum mixture as

the leaves and

recommended on the

on the stems.

package. Be sure to

hit the insects on

the under side of the

leaves.

Cabbage group,

Red Spider

Sucks the

Apply a dusting strawberries,

juices from the

sulfur.

and beans.

under side of

the leaves,

producing

a whitish cast

on the cabbage

group and

a brownish cast

on the other

groups.

Especially

prevalent

during

prolonged dry

hot spells.

-----------------+--------------+---------------+---------------------

Table III (pages 107-108) describes the character of damage done by both groups of insects, the plants attacked and the most effective methods of control.

_Do's_

Grow vegetables for health, recreation and economy.

Organize the vegetable garden for a maximum of output, variety of foods and to facilitate its care.

Use lime and chemical fertilizer or manure liberally for intensive culture.

Combat insects by stimulating plant growth and by using appropriate lethal products.

_Don'ts_

Don't plant a garden in hit-or-miss fashion, if maximum food return is expected.

Don't neglect first appearances of insect damage. Find out the cause of injury and use recommended measures for control.

_Chapter_ VIII

HOME FRUITS AND BEES

A wide variety of fruits may be grown satisfactorily for home use. Where no fruit trees are growing the best plan is to set out individual trees or bush fruits of the standard types and varieties, adding to the collection later as the needs of the family develop and the adaptability of the area for varieties manifests itself through crop production.

All fruits thrive best on a deep, well-drained soil. It is difficult to secure good results where the area is depressed and air drainage is poor.

Elevation of the area planted is desirable therefore from the standpoint of both water and air drainage.

A number of questions confront the prospective grower of fruits. He needs to know, among other things, the kind of fruit to plant, the necessary distance between the trees or plants and the probable yield. The following planting guide will be found helpful in answering these questions.

HOME FRUITS AND BEES

PLANTING GUIDE[4]

-------+----------------+--------+--------+------------------------- Average

number

Estimated yield of

Distance

Distance

at maturity plants

Kind of fruit

between

between +------------+------------ to

rows,

plants,

Average

Average the

feet

feet

per acre

per plant acre

-------+----------------+--------+--------+------------+------------ 27

Apples

40

40

135 bushels

5 bushels 90

Pears

22

22

90 bushels

1 bushel 200

Quinces

16

16

100 bushels

1/2 bushel 90

Peaches

22

22

90 bushels

1 bushel 90

Nectarines

22

22

90 bushels

1 bushel 90

Plums

22

22

90 bushels

1 bushel 90

Cherries (sour)

22

22

90 bushels

1 bushel 48

Cherries (sweet)

30

30

50 bushels

1 bushel 6,000

Strawberries

3-1/2

2

2,250 quarts

3/4 pint

(matted row)

per stool 1,800

Raspberries

8

3

2,000 quarts

1 quart 1,800

Blackberries

8

3

2,400 quarts

1-1/4 quarts 1,200

Dewberries

6

6

1,800 quarts

1 quart

(hill system)

1,800

Gooseberries

8

3

5,400 quarts

3 quarts 1,800

Currants

8

3

3,600 quarts

2 quarts 680

Grapes

8

8

4,000 pounds

6 pounds -------+----------------+--------+--------+------------+------------

The selection of varieties of tree fruits is highly important. Some sorts are preeminently adapted to home use because of their high quality of edibility while others are preferred for commercial production on account of their good shipping qualities and high yields per acre. It is advisable for the grower to inquire of his state agricultural college regarding varieties to plant. Responsible nursery firms will also advise on varieties that will best meet the needs of the purchaser from the standpoint of family use and adaptability to soil and climatic conditions.

The following varieties are recommended for general home use in north-central areas of the United States, subject to check by local authorities. The apple and peach varieties are given in the order of ripening.

Apples: William Wealthy McIntosh Rome Stayman Peaches (all freestone): Golden Jubilee Georgia Belle Elberta J. H. Hale Pears: Bartlett Seckel Cherries: Montmorency or Early Richmond (sour) Black Tartarian (sweet) Plums: Damson (blue) Burbank (red)

About fifty strawberry plants will be needed for a row 100 feet long.

Because of weed infestations in old beds, it will be more satisfactory to set a new row each year and destroy the old one. The plants during the season of setting should be trained to form a matted row about 2 feet wide. Mulching the plants after a freeze in the fall with straw or other similar material will prevent injury caused by "heaving" of the soil.

Currants and gooseberries should be pruned annually and only the one- or two-year-old wood retained for production. Thinning out in this manner will give better size and quality. Where the currant worm is troublesome the foliage should be dusted with a.r.s.enate of lead or Paris green as soon as it is well developed and before the fruit is started. About thirty currant or gooseberry plants will be needed for a 100-foot row, and they can be planted along a fence or other boundary line.