A Guide to the Virginia Springs.

by John Jennings Moorman.

PREFACE.

So frequent has been the demand for some Guide to the Virginia Springs, of portable dimensions, and nothing of the kind having as yet appeared, we have been induced to _compile_ the following little work, hoping to meet, in some measure, the wants of visiters to these Watering-Places.

In giving the various routes, we have endeavoured to describe the Springs, and also the Natural Curiosities, as we proceed.

Other matter than that for which we are indebted to the proprietors of the Springs, has been gathered from various publications.

A number of books and pamphlets have been written about the Mineral Waters of Virginia, but in _no single one_, we believe, has an account been given of so many watering-places as in this.

There are many other Springs in the State whose waters, no doubt, contain valuable medicinal qualities, perhaps even exceeding several of which an account has been given in this work; but as we have not been able to get information with regard to them,--not knowing, in fact, even their localities,--we must, of course, much as we regret it, omit them.

There are, doubtless, also, many other great natural curiosities beside those of which we have given a description; but as we lay no claim to authorship,--_merely being a compiler_,--and having no information concerning them, we will have to leave them as we have done the Springs referred to in our last paragraph.

February, 1851.

GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS.

ROUTES TO THE VIRGINIA SPRINGS.

From Washington City to the Virginia Springs there are two main leading routes. One is down the Potomac River (pa.s.sing in sight of Mount Vernon) to Acquia Creek, forty-five miles; thence by railroad to Fredericksburg, fourteen miles; to the Junction, thirty-seven miles; to Louisa Court-House, thirty-seven miles; to Gordonsville, thirteen miles; and to Charlottesville, twenty-one miles. One mile west of this place is the University of Virginia, one of the most flourishing inst.i.tutions in the Union. The buildings are fine, and in full view from the road.

Three miles southeast of Charlottesville is Monticello, the seat of Thomas Jefferson. The railroad not having, as yet, been completed beyond Charlottesville, we proceed thence by stage via c.o.x, Brookesville, Rockfish Gap, Waynesboro, and Fishersville to Staunton, thirty-eight miles. In this place are the Western Insane Asylum, and the Inst.i.tution for the Deaf and Dumb and Blind, two n.o.ble state inst.i.tutions. Staunton is much resorted to during the summer by persons from the tide-water region of the state.

Stopping here, we have an opportunity of visiting WEYER'S CAVE and the Chimneys, two natural curiosities of this county (Augusta).

Weyer's Cave, the most celebrated of these curiosities, is 17 miles northeast of Staunton. "This is the most remarkable cavern at present known, surpa.s.sing the Grotto of Antiparos, Fingal's Cave in Staffa, and the far-famed Mammoth Cave of Kentucky, which are remarkable only for dimensions.

"Weyer's Cave, for its extent and variety, the singularity of its stalact.i.tic concretions, the disposition of its festooning, the fantastic displays of its drapery, and the sublimity and grandeur of its scenery, is not surpa.s.sed by anything in nature.

"The Guide's House is situated about eight hundred yards from the entrance to the Cave. In going from the house to the cave, you pa.s.s near Madison's Cave, which is in the same ridge, and only three hundred yards from it. Madison's Cave was known and visited as a curiosity long before the discovery of Weyer's Cave, but is now pa.s.sed by and neglected, as being unworthy of notice, compared with its more imposing rival, although it has had the pen of a Jefferson to describe its beauties.

"Weyer's Cave is about 2500 feet in length, yet its exploration does not in a direct line exceed 1800 feet. It is divided into several apartments of various sizes, some of which have received the names of 'Washington's Hall,' 'Congress Hall,' 'Jefferson's Hall,' 'The Senate Chamber,' 'Solomon's Temple,' &c. A distinguished Bostonian, in writing of this Cave, says,--'I have twice visited the Caverns of Matlock and Castleton, in Derbyshire, England, and have twice walked in the subterranean streets of Herculaneum, in the Catacombs of Rome, the tombs of the Scipios, and seen the subterranean wonders of the old world; but must confess Weyer's Cave in Virginia exceeds them _all_, in the beauty of its natural ornaments, and in its general effect. It is as dry, as well graded, and as easy of access, as European caverns. Washington's Hall, with its splendid hangings, its well-wrought fretwork, and the wonderful freak of Nature in placing a statue in the centre, is alone worth a pilgrimage to behold.'

"'Veni vidi victus sum!'

"The temperature of the Cave is 54-1/2 of Fahrenheit, and never changes. It is therefore apparently warm in winter, and cool in summer.

"Ladies should be provided with a light shawl, and thick shoes, in visiting this Cave."

The other curiosity mentioned--the Cyclopean Towers, for many years known by the name of "The Chimneys," is about 16 or 18 miles north of Staunton. These summits or towers, of which there are seven, appear like so many antique chimneys in the midst of a grove. They rise almost perpendicularly from the bed of a stream, to the height of about 60 or 70 feet, with projections like Gothic cornices.

SPRINGS.

There are several Mineral Springs in this county, none of which are much visited by persons from a distance. The most noted of these are the Augusta Springs, (formerly called Stribling's Springs,) about 13 miles northeast from Staunton. "The water is strongly impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen, and is said to equal the celebrated Harrowgate, in England."

Crawford's Springs, 17 miles west of Staunton, on what is called the Free Turnpike, are also visited by persons from the neighbourhood, and said to contain valuable medicinal qualities.

Union Spring is on the west side of the Blue Ridge, 20 miles east of Staunton; and the Lebanon White Sulphur about 20 miles northwest of Staunton, on the road leading from Harrisonburg to the Warm Springs.

From Staunton to the Springs in western Virginia the route is, via Buffalo Gap 10 miles, Deerfield 12 miles, Cloverdale 8 miles, thence to BATH ALUM SPRINGS, 15 miles.

"This new and elegant establishment is situated at the eastern base of the Warm Spring Mountain, on the route through Virginia by way of the Valley of the great Kanawha to Point Pleasant and Guyandotte on the Ohio River. It is very pleasantly located both in point of climate and scenery; the atmosphere is pure, bracing, and exhilarating; the mountain scenery diversified and picturesque. To the west and northwest is the Big Piney Mountain; on the southwest is Little Piney Mountain.

These ranges lie parallel with the Warm Spring Mountain, and nature seems to have separated them for a road to the Far West. Through the 'gap' in these mountains the visiter enjoys a fine view of the celebrated 'Flag Rock,' the gap in the Warm Spring Mountain, and of the turnpike road (for about three-fourths of a mile) as it winds its way along the sides and finally reaches the summit of the mountain.

"Eastward stretches McClung's Mountain, through which Thompson's Creek, sparkling and rapid, forces its way, giving view to Mill Mountain in the distance, whilst in the foreground rises Mayo's Hill, with its rich and beautiful laurel groves.

"The buildings are situated on ground slightly undulating, of which 10 acres are enclosed and ornamented with shade trees, shrubbery, &c.; and in the rear is an extensive forest reaching to the base of the mountain. The houses are disposed in the form of a crescent, of which the centre and princ.i.p.al is the Hotel. This is three stories high besides the bas.e.m.e.nt, 90 feet front by 50 deep, and contains a suite of parlours, very handsomely furnished reception-room, reading-room, the ball-room, and a number of double and single chambers.

"The front is ornamented with a very elegant and airy double portico of 'fretwork,' furnishing an agreeable promenade to ladies and gentlemen above, and to the gentlemen below or on the first floor.

"This central edifice is flanked east and west by two buildings, one at either end, corresponding with it in general appearance--but smaller in size, being but two stories high exclusive of bas.e.m.e.nt, and 63 feet front by 40 deep. Each of these also has a portico of 'fretwork,'

proportioned to its size as compared with the main Hotel. These buildings again are flanked at either extremity by four blocks of cabins or cottages, one story high, having small lattice porches in front, and harmonizing in general appearance with their larger and more imposing neighbours. But that which is of the most importance to the comfort of the sojourner is, that these chambers, besides being new, airy, and well ventilated, are furnished with the best of hair mattra.s.ses. In this respect Bath Alum is probably not surpa.s.sed anywhere in the mineral regions of Virginia. Running back from the centre of the Hotel, in the rear of it, is the s.p.a.cious dining-room 25 feet wide by 115 feet long, adapted for a double row of tables if necessary. The tea and store-rooms, kitchen and baker's rooms are east of the dining-room, and connected with it at the centre.

"These buildings are all of brick, of superior workmanship, and handsomely furnished. Besides these, are provided in the background comfortable rooms for servants; and across the creek ample stabling and carriage room. Attached to the establishment are the plunge-baths, one 16 feet square, the other 12 feet square.

"Although these improvements are all new, and have been put up since this property, two years ago, pa.s.sed into the hands of its present energetic and liberal proprietor (Mr. John W. Frazier), yet the _Alum Springs_ themselves have long been known for their highly medicinal qualities, and resorted to by people of this region of country, and even from distant parts, in spite of the want of all accommodations for visiters in the immediate vicinity.

"The Springs are formed by water percolating through a high slate bank or bluff, and which thus becoming impregnated with its mineral properties, is collected into basins or springs at the base of the rock. These are six in number: three Alum Springs of different degrees of strength, one Magnesia Spring, one Chalybeate, and one Sulphur; sulphate of iron and alum, suiting themselves to most of the chronic diseases to which the human system is subject. For all derangements of the stomach, liver, and kidneys, chronic diarrhoea, chronic thrush, and for delicate females, these waters enjoy a wide and rapidly-growing reputation; while for diseases of the skin, or cutaneous affections of whatever sort, they are invaluable, and perhaps not surpa.s.sed by any mineral waters known.

"To beginners the Alum Water is unpalatable and even repulsive; but as with the Sulphur, Saratoga and other mineral waters, so here, a longer acquaintance makes better friends, insomuch that 'old stagers' long for it as the toper for his bottle, and meeting with it in the cities would not give it in exchange for the finest soda-water, or the best iced lemonade."

WARM SPRINGS.

Five miles west of Bath Alum are the Warm Springs. This watering-place is delightfully situated in a fertile valley, immediately at the western base of the Warm Spring Mountain. The view from the top of the Mountain is very beautiful and extensive. The accommodations at these Springs are very good, and sufficient for about 100 persons.

The following a.n.a.lysis of the water is by Professor Rogers: "The bath is an octagon, 38 feet in diameter, and 16 feet 9 inches wide--its area is 1163.77 feet. The ordinary depth of water being 5 feet, the cubic capacity is 5818.86 feet, or 43533.32 gallons. Notwithstanding _the leaks_, this quant.i.ty of water will flow into the reservoir in one hour. The average temperature of the bath is 98 Fahrenheit. The gas which rises in the bath consists of nitrogen, with minute quant.i.ties of _sulphuretted hydrogen_ and _carbonic acid_.

"Besides this gas, each gallon of water contains 45 cubic inches of gas, consisting of nitrogen, 3.25 cubic inches: sulphuretted hydrogen, 0.25 cubic inches; carbonic acid 1.00 cubic inch. The saline contents of one gallon of the water are as follows: muriate of lime, 3.968; sulphate of magnesia, 9.984; carbonate of lime, 4.288; sulphate of lime, 5.466; a trace of soda, no doubt in the state of muriate.