The ap.r.o.n to be made is to have a skirt, with a bib and shoulder straps, in order to be a protection to the dress, the skirt, and the waist.[A]

[A] If the pupils are very inexperienced and find the sewing difficult, it may be advisable to omit the bib and straps and to make the simple full-skirted ap.r.o.n. If a machine is not at hand to use for the long seams, the limited time may make the simpler ap.r.o.n necessary. This will give more time for the various steps. Lessons XIV and XV may then be omitted, Lesson XVI made more simple, and less outside work may be required.

METHOD OF WORK

As soon as the cla.s.s meets, the pupils should take the measurements for their ap.r.o.ns. One measurement should be a.s.signed at a time, and the reason for each measurement should be given. The pupils should have explicit directions as to the measurements, as they are apt to become confused if the directions are not clear. They should work carefully, so that the material does not become crumpled or soiled and, at the conclusion of the lesson, they should fold it carefully and put it away neatly. All threads and sc.r.a.ps of material should be carefully picked off the floor and the desks, and the room left in order.

LESSON XII: Ap.r.o.nS OR UNDERGARMENTS--Continued

_Basting the hem for hemming on the machine or by hand. Uneven basting._

SUBJECT-MATTER

An uneven basting forms the better guide for st.i.tching. In uneven basting, the s.p.a.ces are made about three times as long as the st.i.tches.

The st.i.tch should be about one eighth of an inch and the s.p.a.ce three eighths of an inch.

PRELIMINARY PLAN

In addition to the ap.r.o.n material which has been cut out in the previous lesson, each pupil should provide her own spool of thread (number sixty white thread will probably answer for all the work), a piece of cardboard 5 inches wide for a gauge, and pins to use in fastening the hem.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig._ 14.--Uneven basting]

METHOD OF WORK

As soon as the cla.s.s meets, the pupils should prepare a 5-inch gauge, to guide them in turning the hems of the skirts of their ap.r.o.ns. They should make a half-inch notch in the measure for the first turn in the material. A half-inch edge should be turned up from the bottom of the skirt, then a 5-inch hem should be turned, pinned, and basted carefully with uneven basting. The gauge should be used for both measurements.

LESSON XIII: Ap.r.o.nS OR UNDERGARMENTS--Continued

_Gathering the skirt and st.i.tching to the belt._

SUBJECT-MATTER

In gathering, a st.i.tch much like running is employed. Small st.i.tches are taken up on the needle, with s.p.a.ces twice as great between them. The top of the skirt should be divided into halves, and each half gathered with a long thread, fine st.i.tches one quarter of an inch from the edge being used. The middle of the belt and the middle of the top of the skirt of the ap.r.o.n should be determined upon. The belt should be pinned to the wrong side of the ap.r.o.n at these points, and the fulness drawn up to fit (approximately one half of the waist measure). The skirt and the belt should be pinned, basted, and sewn together.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig._ 15.--Gathering]

PRELIMINARY PLAN

If the hems have been completed in the skirts, the pupils are ready to gather the skirts and attach them to the belt. It will be well to have a supply of pins on hand, to use in fastening the skirt and belt together.

METHOD OF WORK

The teacher should first demonstrate the method of gathering and a.s.sign that portion of the lesson. When the skirts have all been gathered, she should show the pupils how to measure, pin, and baste the skirt to the belt.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig._ 16.--Sewing on the belt of the ap.r.o.n]

LESSON XIV: Ap.r.o.nS OR UNDERGARMENTS--Continued

_Making the bib._

SUBJECT-MATTER

A 2-inch hem should be turned across one short end of the bib. This should be basted and hemmed. The bottom of the bib should be gathered, the method employed for the top of the skirt being used, and sufficient thread being left to adjust the gathers easily.

PRELIMINARY PLAN

If the pupils have completed the skirts and attached them to the belts, they are ready to make the bibs. They should be provided with a 2-inch marker, for use in making the hems in the top of the bibs.

METHOD OF WORK

The teacher should guide the pupils carefully in the making of the bibs, reviewing their knowledge of basting, hemming, and gathering.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig._ 17.--Bib and straps of ap.r.o.n]

LESSON XV: Ap.r.o.nS OR UNDERGARMENTS--Continued

_Making the straps._

SUBJECT-MATTER

One end of one of the straps should be placed at the bottom of the bib.

The edge of the strap should be pinned, basted, and sewed to the right side of the bib with a running-st.i.tch. The other long edge of the strap should then be turned in one quarter of an inch and the side turned in one inch. The strap should then be folded through the middle for its entire length and the free side basted to the wrong side of the bib and hemmed. The remaining edges of the strap should be overhanded together.

The other strap should be sewn to the other side of the bib in the same way.

PRELIMINARY PLAN