Narrative of a Mission to Central Africa Performed in the Years 1850-51 - Volume Ii Part 6
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Volume Ii Part 6

Our servant shot a large vulture to-day. En-Noor having bad eyes, ordered the eyes of this bird of prey to be scooped out for a medicine.

This is not the first time that I have heard of the various parts of animals being eaten, or otherwise used, to cure or strengthen the corresponding parts in human beings. It seems to be an idea natural to people in a rude or semi-barbarous state.

En-Noor related a pretty anecdote of himself and his younger days in our tent to-day. After saying, that formerly the Asbenouee people were the only folks considered bad in these parts, he observed, that now he himself and the Asbenouee were certainly much improved in their manners and dispositions; "for," added he, "there were once four fighis (charm-writers) who employed people to speak against me, and bring me into disrepute. What did I do? I called them to me, gave them fine presents of burnouses and a great supper, with an apartment in which to pa.s.s the night. But when they were fast asleep I dug a large hole, fetched them all out of the room, killed them, and covered them up in the hole. Now, however," continued his highness, "we do not go so far as this, but content ourselves with taking away an enemy's camels."

_15th._--Weather cold this morning. Thermometer at sunrise, 43. I hang the thermometer on the tent-ropes, just outside, at about a foot from the ground.

Hamma (son-in-law of En-Noor) returned this morning from the salt-caravan. He marked on the sand that the caravan would be thirty-five days before it returned; so, I imagine, we have still from this time some thirty days to wait here. He left the caravan on its entering the Hamadah, between this and Bilma.

TOWNS AND VILLAGES OF TESAOUA.

(_From Amankee's relation._)

1. Tesaoua: people 1400; residence of the governor. Two large wells and one small one.

2. Harmaua: 500. A little water.

3. Ungua Korna: 400. One well, much water.

4. Haidaua: 500. One well, and much water.

5. Nuwala: 500 or 600. No water; but only half an hour from Haidaua.

6. Nachira: 800, scattered about in small groups. Much water.

7. Ungua-guka: 500. One well.

8. Ungua-tallai: 400. Much water.

9. Gindaua: 1000. Large wells; few trees.

10. Saulawa: 40 or 50.

The capital and nearly all this country is full of trees. Not a stone is to be seen, and the soil is sandy.

The Sultan, or Governor of Tesaoua, is subject to the sovereign of Maradee, who is the only independent black prince in this part of Africa. The inhabitants are mixed, pagans and Muslims, but these last are not bigoted.

En-Noor visited us this evening, and I asked him if he recollected earthquakes in this country. The old Sheikh emphatically replied, _Babo_, "There are none."

_16th._--Barth has picked up a good many words in Aghadez, mostly correct.

_17th._--It was colder this morning, although yesterday was very pleasant. Thermometer at sunrise, 41.

It is expected that we shall still remain here thirty days, which time, if divided half between Haussa and half between Bornouee, will help me on in these languages, the princ.i.p.al of the interior of Africa. Mohammed Tunisee is now the servant of Barth alone. Overweg has given him up.

Yesterday morning I gave Overweg the presents for the Sultan of Maradee, to whom he intends to go on a mission, in the same way as Barth went to Aghadez. The presents consist of a fine burnouse, a fine shasheeah (five mahboubs), two pieces of coloured cotton cloth, two heads of white sugar, knives, scissors, cinnamon, looking-gla.s.ses, beads, &c. I hope he will not return without bringing back the treaty signed. He is also to make some arrangement for the establishment of the missionaries in Maradee.

To-day we had prayers in Overweg's tent. I read several short prayers from the Church of England prayer-book, and also the Gospel and Epistle for the Sunday.

_18th._--Yesterday evening it was cloudy, and the moon had, for several hours, an immense elliptical ring round it--a common phenomenon in the northern Sahara.

To-day Yusuf got up in a rage, and threw down his writing, because I told him he did not take pains to obtain from the people the several meanings of the words. This has been the case for most of the time we have been occupied with the vocabulary. I have therefore left him to himself, since he insulted me in this manner before the servants, and I fear I cannot trust myself to go with him to Sakkatou. It is a great inconvenience, but I must search for a kateb (writer) at Zinder. There are many poor men of this profession in Bornou, and very faithful people.

_19th._--His highness En-Noor continues to visit us. Yesterday I gave him an English silver fourpenny piece, an English farthing, and a small French silver coin, with all of which he was greatly delighted. He summed up their value in wada; fifty wadas are an English penny. He admired her majesty's face on the silver fourpence; but his shadow, the man who generally comes with him, said,--"Oh, no, the face of the woman for a Sultan is not good. _This_ is good," pointing to the head of Louis Philippe.

The news came yesterday evening that a razzia had just been made on Tintaghoda, the a.s.sailants carrying away everything before them, and the inhabitants of the town fleeing to the mountains. This razzia was made by the people whom the Sultan of Aghadez has lately punished for the depredations committed on us and other caravans on the road. When this took place there were a few people at Tintalous, who, on hearing the news, came off immediately to us after En-Noor, so that now there does not remain a single inhabitant in the village. The people of the razzia were much disappointed at finding no more camels, all those of the villages hereabouts, and indeed through all Aheer, being gone to fetch salt from Bilma. They wished to make up the number of camels which the Sultan of Aghadez took away from them. Of course, when the salt-caravan returns, an effort will be made to avenge this insult on the holy city of Aheer--this profanation of the abode of marabouts! It is singular, nevertheless, that only a year ago some neighbouring tribes, thinking these holy men had too much wealth, carried off a large number of their camels. This is the much-vaunted place amongst the credulous Moorish merchants of the coast, where theft and robbery are unknown!

_21st._--A foggy _November_ morning! But this change of the atmosphere is very rare, and soon pa.s.ses away. It is amazing how steady the seasons are, and how they roll, each bringing its accustomed weather and tunes.

Yesterday I began my Bornou studies, not knowing whether I shall go first to Bornou or Soudan. I intend, if my health be preserved, to make a dictionary of the Bornou and Soudan languages together, for the sake of commerce and general information. I hope Government will print it, or if not Government, the Philological Society.

_Abizgen_ is a fruit which abounds in Aheer. It is half the size of small currants, and has not a disagreeable taste--a sort of bitter-sweet clammy taste. This fruit may be called Aheer currants.

In the neighbourhood of our encampment have been seen gazelles, ostriches, and monkeys, in considerable numbers.

_22d._--En-Noor went off yesterday morning early, to visit a great marabout in the neighbourhood. This will enable us to apply ourselves closely to the languages, all day long. Occupied as I am with Soudanese and Bornouese, all the days fly away swifter than arrows shot by the most expert archers. En-Noor is expected to return in the course of four or five days. We have now all the village of Tintalous with us. It is Tintalous encamped out in the valley.

_23d._--The orient sky flamed this morning with a pure yellow flame, amidst a somewhat murky atmosphere.

Most of the people have a fire all night. In the morning they cower over it like inhabitants of the poles. Of course we as well as they, having been baked in the summer's sun, now feel the cold most acutely.

There is a species of people scattered through Soudan which correspond to our gipsies, called Maguzawa (sing. Bamaguzai). These are essentially a merry, care-nothing people, always half tipsy, and always full of fun. They, however, work a little in agriculture; differing from our gipsies, who are little more than itinerant tinkers. A boy was shown to me to-day, whom his parents had christened _Butu_, "worthless." It is related that his mother had many children before him, all of whom died, and when he came into the world the people or neighbours all cried, "_Butu! Butu!_" i.e. "He will come to nothing." Then, it is added, "G.o.d seeing the people gave him a bad name, determined in compa.s.sion to preserve his life, and so his life was preserved to this day."

En-Noor returned this evening from his visit to the marabout.--It is my intention to send home fifty thousand African words for this expedition.

What future expeditions may do, if my life be spared, I cannot tell. I speak for this. I imagine I have already sent to the Foreign Office six thousand. I shall have five thousand, I hope, by the time I get to Zinder--three of Soudanese, and two of Bornouese. I must try to get a few words of the Aghadez language. These I can get, probably, at Sakkatou. I must have another writer, or fighi. My present Bornouese fighi is a very poor fellow.

_24th._--The Sunday soon came again, with the study of languages. Now the time of our waiting here does not appear to be long enough. I have a commercial dictionary to make.

En-Noor came to us after his return from his visit to his marabout friend. He says of the late razzia at Tintaghoda, that the marabouts of that town brought it all upon themselves, being the first to begin to countenance attacks upon caravans (that is, ours). He does not pity them; he does not care for them; and, he added, "They have now lost all their reputation amongst the people." The fact is, when we came the marabouts did not know what course to take, whether to attack us or to receive us; so they chose the former, in their blinded judgment, and brought all this evil upon their heads.

The Fadeea, or Kalfada, have decamped with their booty and their families to the Hagar, beyond the reach of recapture or revenge.

A scorpion was found in my tent to-day, running across the sandy floor.

We look upon them now as nearly harmless, whilst the cold weather has deprived them of all force.

_25th._--Occupied with the languages. Time pa.s.ses quickly.

_26th._--Began the Bornou grammar.

_27th._--A visit from En-Noor. He put on one of my gloves, and was much amused with it. He held out his hand, and put it on the face of his courtiers--showing fight. It was very white, which gave him occasion to pa.s.s to my skin, and pity my being so white. I made several useful remarks on Haussa grammar, and begin to understand the genius of the language.

A caravan of ghaseb has arrived from Damerghou, by which we learn that the Sfaxee and Fezzan merchants are arrived in that country. We have been trying to buy ghaseb of the people, or of En-Noor; but it appears we were too late, for it is said to be all gone. The dollars are worth only 1750 wadas here, whilst in Kanou they pa.s.s for 2500. Every article is depreciated in value in Aheer, because food is scarce. We have, however, managed to purchase a bullock--a great beast.

_28th._--I did not feel so well after the meat-eating; we have had so little of it, and so seldom, that a little extra quite upsets me, and the gnawing it makes all my teeth bleed. Thermometer, 50. The weather has changed to mistiness, haziness. It is now reported that we still remain here twenty-five days longer, the caravan arriving only in twenty days, and five being allowed to rest the camels. So we have time enough for the Haussa and Bornou languages. I wish to master the grammar of each, so as to superintend some translation of the Scriptures.

_29th._--The weather is still hazy, and warmer; but whilst it is warmer in the morning it is cooler in the mid-day, on account of the clouds and haze. Half an hour after sunrise, thermometer 56.

En-Noor says we shall start in seventeen days, but ten days more or less for these people are nothing. Our courier for the money has just been gone thirty-three days. If, happily, he arrive to day, he will save a week of the Shantah from Mourzuk to Tripoli. If we remain here now twenty-five days, and are thirty-five days more before we arrive at Zinder, that will be sixty days. I shall then have only twenty days more to wait till the expiration of the four months, when I may expect the courier to return. Thus I hope to have the money to pay the Sfaxee before I go to Sakkatou. But, alas! such calculations are extremely uncertain, and we cannot tell what a day may bring forth. For our support and safety we must repose firmly in the goodness of an Almighty Providence.