VARIATION If you want the chicken pilaf but do not want to bother with a pastry crust, press the pilaf in a ring-or dome-shaped mold and heat it through in the oven. Turn it out and surround it with the chicken pieces.

PUFF PASTRY MEAT PIES with with RAISINS RAISINS and and PINE NUTS PINE NUTS Talas Boregi These individual pies are tasty, elegant, and very easy to prepare. They make a perfect light meal, accompanied by a salad.

SERVES 4 1 large onion, chopped2 tablespoons sunflower oil1 pound ground lamb or beefsalt and black pepper teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon ground allspice3 tablespoons pine nuts2 tablespoons currants or small black raisins3 to 4 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley14 ounces puff pastry1 egg, separated First, make the filling. Fry the onion in the oil until soft and golden. Add the ground meat, the seasoning, and spices. Turn the meat over, and crush it with a fork to break up any lumps. Cook for about 8 to 10 minutes, until the meat is no longer pink and the juices have been absorbed. Stir in the pine nuts, currants or raisins, and chopped parsley, then let it cool.

Cut the puff pastry into 4 pieces. Roll each piece out into a square or rectangle, large enough to make an eventual flat parcel of about 7 inches [.dotmath] 4 inches. Roll out the pastry on a floured surface with a floured rolling pin, turning the sheets often and dusting them each time with flour. Spread a quarter of the meat filling onto one half of one of the pieces of pastry, leaving a -inch margin around the three edges. Brush the edges with egg white to make them stick better. Fold the pastry over to cover the filling. Trim any superfluous pastry from around the pie with a knife and pinch firmly to seal. Place the pies, turned over with the smooth side up, on an oiled baking sheet and brush the tops with the egg yolk mixed with a drop of water.

Bake in an oven preheated to 350F for 25 to 30 minutes, until puffed up and golden.

SHISH KEBAB Sis Kebabi Meats grilled on skewers over the dying embers of a fire are a symbol of Turkish cuisine. They are said to be a legacy of nomadic times, perfected in the conquering era of the Ottomans, when soldiers camping out in tents skewered their meats on swords and cooked them on the campfire.Years ago, I went on a tour of kebab houses in Istanbul. It was a grand eating marathon. At the fifth establishment they opened the refrigeration room and showed me all the prize cuts, which were later presented to me straight from the fire on a huge platter. As well as lamb kebabs and ground meat kebabs on skewers, there were small lamb chops, kidneys, slices of calf 's liver, beef steaks, sucuk (spicy beef sausages), and pieces of chicken. It was a gourmand's dream, but for me at the time, afraid to give offence by not eating everything, it was a nightmare. (spicy beef sausages), and pieces of chicken. It was a gourmand's dream, but for me at the time, afraid to give offence by not eating everything, it was a nightmare.Serve the kebabs with pita bread or with other bread from a Middle Eastern store, such as Turkish flat bread like an Italian focaccia focaccia or a sesame bread, and with one or more of the garnishes below. or a sesame bread, and with one or more of the garnishes below.

SERVES 6 2 pounds boned leg of lamb2 large onions, quartered6 tablespoons mild extra virgin olive oilsalt and black pepper Cut the meat into 1- to 1-inch cubes. Liquefy the onions in the food processor and prepare a marinade by mixing the onion juice with the oil, salt, and pepper. Leave the meat in this for 1 hour in the refrigerator, keeping it covered with plastic wrap, and turning the pieces over at least once.

Thread the pieces of meat onto 6 skewers. These need to be the type with a flat, wide blade so that the meat does not slide. Grill them over charcoal or wood embers, on a well-oiled grill. Or cook them under a preheated gas or electric broiler. Cook them for about 7 to 10 minutes, turning them over once, until the meat is well browned on the outside but still pink and juicy inside.

For an alternative marinade: Blend 1 onion to a puree, then add 1 cups yogurt, salt, and pepper.

GARNISHES AND ACCOMPANIMENTS Thread 1 piece of onion, 1 piece of tomato, and 1 piece of sweet pepper-cut to the same size as the meat-between each piece of meat. Alternatively, put quartered onions and peppers and small whole tomatoes separately onto the grill to be served at the same time.

Serve with an onion relish made by slicing 4 medium onions as thinly as possible using a food processor. Sprinkle the slices generously with salt, and leave them in a bowl for at least an hour. Rinse and drain them and mix with 4 tablespoons chopped parsley and, if you like, 1 tablespoon of the sharp, red spice called sumac (see page 71).

Serve with a salad of diced tomato, cuc.u.mber, and red onion with chopped mint and parsley, dressed with olive oil and lemon juice.

Serve the kebabs with a yogurt sauce made by beating 2 cups yogurt with 1 or 2 crushed garlic cloves and 1 tablespoon dried crushed mint.

Grill whole, small eggplants at the same time as the kebabs, turning them until they are soft inside, and serve them cut open with a sprinkling of salt and pepper, a drizzle of olive oil, and a squeeze of lemon juice.

KOFTE KEBAB KEBAB with with TOMATO SAUCE TOMATO SAUCE and and YOGURT YOGURT Yogurtlu Kofte Kebabi This is a mainstay of Turkish kebab houses, where it is often dramatically served in a dish with a dome-shaped copper lid, the type that was once used at the sultan's palace. I serve it in a large, round, clay dish, which can be warmed in the oven.This is a multilayered extravaganza. There is toasted pita bread at the bottom with tomato sauce poured over. This is topped with yogurt and sprinkled with fried pine nuts. Grilled ground meat kebabs or shish kebab (see above), or both, are laid on top. It requires organization and must be a.s.sembled at the last minute as the pita should remain a little crisp. The tomato sauce and meat should be very hot while the yogurt should be at room temperature.

SERVES 4 TO 6 F O R THE TOMATO SAUCE1 small onion, chopped2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil2 garlic cloves, chopped1 chili pepper, seeded and chopped1 pounds tomatoes, peeled and choppedsalt and black pepper1 to 2 teaspoons sugar2 pita breads1 pounds ground beef or lambsalt and black pepper1 medium onion, finely chopped (optional) to 1/3 cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley1 teaspoon sumac, plus a pinch more (see page 7)2 cups plain whole-milk yogurt2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or extra virgin olive oil2 to 3 tablespoons pine nuts Make the tomato sauce first. Fry the onion in the oil until soft. Add the garlic and chili pepper, and stir for a moment or two. Put in the tomatoes, season with salt, pepper, and sugar, and cook over a medium heat for 10 minutes, until they soften and the sauce is reduced.

Open out the pita and toast them until they are crisp, then break them into small pieces in your hands.

For the kofta kofta kebabs, season the ground beef or lamb with salt and pepper, and work it into a soft dough with your hands. Add the onion, if using, and the parsley, and work into the meat. Shape into sausages about inch thick and 2 inches long. Arrange them on an oiled sheet of foil on a baking sheet and cook them under a pre-heated broiler for about 8 minutes, turning them over once, until well browned outside but still pink and moist inside. kebabs, season the ground beef or lamb with salt and pepper, and work it into a soft dough with your hands. Add the onion, if using, and the parsley, and work into the meat. Shape into sausages about inch thick and 2 inches long. Arrange them on an oiled sheet of foil on a baking sheet and cook them under a pre-heated broiler for about 8 minutes, turning them over once, until well browned outside but still pink and moist inside.

Spread the pieces of toasted pita at the bottom of the serving dish and sprinkle over a pinch of sumac. Pour the hot tomato sauce all over and top with a layer of the yogurt beaten with a fork.

Heat the b.u.t.ter or oil with the pine nuts and stir in the remaining teaspoon of sumac. When the b.u.t.ter or oil sizzles, sprinkle it all over the yogurt. Arrange the meat on top and serve at once.

VARIATION For a rural yogurtlu yogurtlu kebab, saute small pieces of lamb in b.u.t.ter or oil with chopped onion, salt, and pepper. Serve on a bed of toasted and broken pita bread and pour warmed yogurt over the top. Mix a little paprika in sizzling b.u.t.ter and drizzle over the yogurt. kebab, saute small pieces of lamb in b.u.t.ter or oil with chopped onion, salt, and pepper. Serve on a bed of toasted and broken pita bread and pour warmed yogurt over the top. Mix a little paprika in sizzling b.u.t.ter and drizzle over the yogurt.

LAMB STEW with with EGGPLANT SAUCE EGGPLANT SAUCE Hunkar Begendi One legend surrounding the name of the sauce, hunkar begendi, which means "Her Majesty's delight," places it in which means "Her Majesty's delight," places it in 1869 1869 when the Sultan Abdul Aziz entertained Empress Eugenie (my Istanbul grandmother was named after her), wife of Napoleon III, in his white rococo palace of Beylerbey on the Asian side of the Bosphorus. The empress was so enchanted by the pale, creamy, eggplant puree that she asked for the recipe to be given to her cooks. The sultan's cook explained that he could not pa.s.s on the recipe because he "cooked with his eyes and his nose." when the Sultan Abdul Aziz entertained Empress Eugenie (my Istanbul grandmother was named after her), wife of Napoleon III, in his white rococo palace of Beylerbey on the Asian side of the Bosphorus. The empress was so enchanted by the pale, creamy, eggplant puree that she asked for the recipe to be given to her cooks. The sultan's cook explained that he could not pa.s.s on the recipe because he "cooked with his eyes and his nose."In Turkey, they use mature kasar, kasar, a hard yellow cheese, or Gruyere in the sauce, but mature Cheddar can be used too. Serve it with rice pilaf (page a hard yellow cheese, or Gruyere in the sauce, but mature Cheddar can be used too. Serve it with rice pilaf (page 193 193 ). ).

SERVES 6 1 large onion, chopped3 tablespoons sunflower oil2 pounds boned leg or neck fillet of lamb1 pound tomatoes, peeled and chopped1 teaspoon sugar, or to tastesalt and black pepperFOR THE EGGPLANT SAUCE3 pounds eggplants stick (6 tablespoons) b.u.t.ter3 tablespoons flour2 cups milksaltgood pinch of nutmeg cup grated cheese (see above) For the stew, fry the onion in the oil until soft. Cut the meat into 1-inch cubes, add them to the pan, and cook, turning to brown lightly all over. Add the tomatoes, sugar, salt, and pepper. Cover with water and simmer, with the lid on, for 1 hour, until the meat is very tender, adding water if it becomes dry, but letting the sauce reduce at the end.

For the eggplant sauce, p.r.i.c.k the eggplants with a pointed knife to prevent them from bursting in the oven. Place them on a large piece of foil on a baking sheet and roast them in a hot oven preheated to 475F for about 45 to 55 minutes, or until they feel very soft when you press them and the skins are wrinkled. When cool enough to handle, peel and drop them into a strainer or colander with small holes. Press out as much of the water and juices as possible. Still in the colander, chop the flesh with a pointed knife, then mash it into a puree with a fork or wooden spoon, letting the juices escape through the holes.

Make a bechamel sauce by melting the b.u.t.ter in a saucepan, add the flour, and stir over low heat for about 2 minutes, until it is well blended. Take the pan off the heat and add the milk gradually, beating vigorously all the time to avoid lumps forming. Add salt and nutmeg, and cook over low heat, stirring constantly for about 15 minutes, until the sauce thickens.

Off the heat, mix the eggplant puree into the bechamel sauce, then return to the heat, beating vigorously until it is well blended. Add the grated cheese and stir until it has melted. Add a little salt if necessary.

Serve the meat stew in a wide shallow dish with the eggplant sauce in a circle around it.

LAMB STEW with with SHALLOTS SHALLOTS and and CHESTNUTS CHESTNUTS Kestaneli Kuzu This is a dish you can prepare well in advance. In Turkey, they may add a little grape mola.s.ses called pekmez, pekmez, which you can buy in Turkish stores, but, for me, the dish is sweet enough as it is with the onions, chestnuts, and sugar. which you can buy in Turkish stores, but, for me, the dish is sweet enough as it is with the onions, chestnuts, and sugar.Serve it hot with plain rice or rice with chickpeas (see Variation page 193 193 ). ).

SERVES 6 TO 8 1 pounds shallots or baby onions3 pounds boned shoulder or neck fillet of lamb cup sunflower oil1 teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon ground allspice1 teaspoon sugarsalt and black pepper1 pound frozen or vacuum-packed peeled chestnuts To peel the shallots or baby onions more easily, blanch them in boiling water for 5 minutes. This loosens their skins. When they are cool enough to handle, peel them and trim the roots.

Cut the meat into 6 to 8 pieces. Remove any skin, and trim some but not all of the fat.

In a large saucepan, fry the shallots or onions in the oil over a medium heat, turning them, until they are brown all over. Then lift them out and put in the meat. Turn the pieces to brown them on all sides.

Add water to barely cover the meat. Bring it to the boil, remove any sc.u.m, then add the cinnamon, allspice, sugar, salt, and pepper. Simmer, covered, for about 1 hours, until the meat is very tender, turning it over and adding a little water so that it does not dry out. Put back the onions and cook for 15 minutes more. Finally, add the chestnuts and cook for 10 minutes more.

LAMB SHANKS COOKED in in YOGURT YOGURT Yogurtlu Kuzu The dish can be made with small lamb shanks or with knuckle of veal (os...o...b..co (os...o...b..co ) or slightly fatty, cubed meat. I have used lamb shanks, a cut not normally available in supermarkets. But butchers sell fresh ones from the foreleg weighing about ) or slightly fatty, cubed meat. I have used lamb shanks, a cut not normally available in supermarkets. But butchers sell fresh ones from the foreleg weighing about 10 10 ounces and frozen ones from New Zealand from the back leg weighing from ounces and frozen ones from New Zealand from the back leg weighing from 14 14 to to 16 16 ounces. Serve it with plain or Vermicelli Rice (see page ounces. Serve it with plain or Vermicelli Rice (see page 304 304 ). The yogurt makes a wonderful, soupy sauce so provide spoons, too. ). The yogurt makes a wonderful, soupy sauce so provide spoons, too.

SERVES 6 6 small or 4 large lamb shankssalt and white pepper1 pound shallots or baby onions8 cups plain whole-milk yogurt2 tablespoons cornstarch3 garlic cloves (optional)To serve: crushed dried mint Put the lamb shanks in a large pan and cover them with water. Bring to the boil, remove any sc.u.m, and add salt and pepper. Cook them with the lid on for 2 hours, adding water to keep them covered. Peel the shallots or baby onions; drop them in boiling water and poach them for 5 minutes to loosen the skins, then drain and peel them while still warm. Add them to the meat and cook for 30 minutes more, until they are soft and the meat is so tender that it falls off the bone.

You need to prepare or stabilize the yogurt to prevent it from curdling during cooking. Pour it into a large saucepan and beat well until it is liquid. Mix the cornstarch to a light paste with 3 to 4 tablespoons water and add this to the yogurt, beating vigorously until well mixed. Now bring the yogurt to the boil slowly, stirring constantly in one direction only in one direction only, then reduce the heat to as low as possible and let it barely simmer, uncovered, for about 10 minutes. Do not cover the pan with a lid: they say that a drop of steam falling back into the yogurt could ruin it. I am not sure that is true.

Drain the cooked shanks-you can remove the bones or not, as you wish-and the onions and add them to the yogurt. Stir in a little salt and the garlic, if using, and simmer gently, uncovered, for 10 to 15 minutes.

When serving, pa.s.s around a little bowl of dried mint so people can stir a teaspoonful or so into their sauce, if they wish.

LAMB SHANKS with with EGG EGG and and LEMON SAUCE LEMON SAUCE Terbiyeli Kuzu Incik This dish can be made with lamb shanks, knuckle of veal (os...o...b..co (os...o...b..co ), or with cubed meat such as shoulder of lamb. Butchers sell fresh lamb shanks from the foreleg weighing about ), or with cubed meat such as shoulder of lamb. Butchers sell fresh lamb shanks from the foreleg weighing about 10 10 ounces and frozen ones from New Zealand from the back leg weighing from ounces and frozen ones from New Zealand from the back leg weighing from 14 14 to to 16 16 ounces. Lamb shanks cooked for a long time have a wonderful tenderness and texture without being stringy, and they produce a rich stock. Although they take a long time to cook, they don't need any attention. The sauce is the cla.s.sic Turkish egg and lemon ounces. Lamb shanks cooked for a long time have a wonderful tenderness and texture without being stringy, and they produce a rich stock. Although they take a long time to cook, they don't need any attention. The sauce is the cla.s.sic Turkish egg and lemon terbiyeli terbiyeli sauce. sauce.

SERVES 6 4 large or 6 small lamb shanks3 garlic cloves, peeledsalt and black pepper14 ounces baby onions or shallots3 large carrots, sliced1 celeriac, peeled and cubed3 medium new potatoes, quartered2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley2 tablespoons chopped dill2 egg yolksjuice of 1 lemon1 teaspoon sugar Put the lamb shanks in a large pan and cover with water. Bring them to the boil, remove any sc.u.m, and add the garlic cloves, salt, and pepper. Cook, with the lid on, over very low heat for 2 to 2 hours, adding water if necessary to keep the meat covered, until the meat is so tender it can be pulled off the bone. Lift out the shanks and when cold enough to handle, remove the meat from the bones and set it aside in a bowl with a little stock to keep it moist. Ladle off as much fat as you can. If you are left with too much stock (you need only enough to cover the meat and vegetables), reduce it by boiling it down.

Put the vegetables into the stock (to peel the shallots or baby onions more easily, place them in boiling water and poach for a few minutes to loosen their skins; then peel them while still warm) and cook for 20 minutes, until all the vegetables are very tender. Return the meat to the pan and stir in the parsley and dill.

Just before serving, beat the egg yolks with the lemon juice and sugar in a bowl.

Pour in a ladle of boiling stock from the stew, beating vigorously. Return this mixture to the stew, stirring constantly, and heat through for a moment or two, without letting the liquid boil again or the eggs will curdle.

NOTE It sometimes makes sense to start the dish a day ahead because of the time the shanks take to boil. In that case, let them simmer for the 2 to 2 hours, then let them cool in their broth and refrigerate. Remove the solid fat, which collects on the surface, before heating through and continuing as above.

STUFFED EGGPLANTS with with MEAT MEAT Karniyarik These eggplants stuffed with ground meat-their name, karniyarik, means "slashed belly"-are served as a hot main dish with rice pilaf (page means "slashed belly"-are served as a hot main dish with rice pilaf (page 193 193 ). Use a good-quality tomato juice. ). Use a good-quality tomato juice.

SERVES 6 6 thin and long medium-size eggplantssaltsunflower oil, for frying2 onions, chopped14 ounces ground beef or lamb1 tablespoon tomato paste2 large tomatoes1 teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon ground allspiceblack pepper1/3 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley1 cup tomato juice Trim the caps but leave the stems on the eggplants. Peel -inch-wide strips off the skins lengthwise, leaving alternate -inch strips of peel. Soak the eggplants in water mixed with 1 tablespoon of salt for 30 minutes, then drain and dry them. Fry them very briefly in hot shallow oil, 2 or 3 in the skillet at a time, turning to brown them lightly all over. Drain them on paper towels.

For the filling, fry the onion in another pan in 2 to 3 tablespoons oil until it is soft. Add the meat and cook for about 5 minutes, crushing it with a fork and turning it over until it changes color. Add the tomato paste and one of the tomatoes, peeled and chopped, and the cinnamon, allspice, salt, pepper, and chopped parsley. Stir well and simmer for about 10 minutes, until the liquid is reduced.

Place the eggplants side by side in a single layer in a baking dish. With a sharp pointed knife, make a slit in each one, lengthwise, along one of the bare strips on the top until about 1 inch from each end. Carefully open the slits and, with a dessertspoon, press against the flesh on the insides to make a hollow pocket.

Fill each of the eggplants with some of the filling, and place a slice of the remaining tomato on top. Pour the tomato juice into the dish, cover with foil, and bake in an oven preheated to 350F for about 40 minutes, or until the eggplants are soft.

STUFFED QUINCES Ayva Dolmasi This is truly exquisite. Quinces are now available for quite a long period in Middle Eastern and Asian stores. In this recipe, the fruits are stuffed with a meat filling and served hot. Quinces are hard and take a long time to cook in the oven before you can cut them up and stuff them, but you can do this in advance-even the day before. I used very large quinces because those were the ones available at the time, but you can use 4 4 smaller ones, in which case the baking time will be less. smaller ones, in which case the baking time will be less.Serve hot with rice pilaf (page 193 193 ) or rice with chickpeas (Variation page ) or rice with chickpeas (Variation page 193 193 ). ).

SERVES 4 2 large quinces (each weighing about 1 pound)1 medium onion, chopped1 tablespoons vegetable oil3 tablespoons pine nuts7 ounces lean ground lamb or beef1 teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon ground allspicesalt and black pepper Wash the quinces and rub off the light down that covers their skin in patches. Put them on a piece of foil on a baking sheet and bake in an oven preheated to 325 F for 1 to 2 hours (the time varies considerably), until they feel soft when you press them.

For the stuffing, fry the onion in the oil until soft. Add the pine nuts and stir, turning them over, until golden. Put the ground meat in a bowl and add the cinnamon, all-spice, salt, and pepper. Mix and work well to a smooth paste with your hands. Add the fried onions and pine nuts and work them into the paste.

When the quinces are cool enough to handle, cut them open lengthwise through the stem end. Remove the cores with a pointed knife and discard them. With a pointed spoon, scoop out about one-third of the pulp and mix it into the meat mixture. Heap a quarter of this mixture into each quince half and press it down.

Return the 4 stuffed quince halves to the baking sheet and bake at 350F for 30 minutes.

Desserts A wide range of nutty, syrupy pastries, milk puddings, and fruit compotes are the most typical and essential part of Ottoman gastronomy. Traditionally served at every festive event, be it a wedding, the birth of a baby, a circ.u.mcision, or the inauguration of a new home, sweets are the first item of food that is decided upon when a celebration is planned. They symbolize the hope that a marriage will be happy, that a child will be healthy, that a family will prosper. They also signal that a guest is welcome. Some sweets are famously attached to particular religious festivals.

APRICOTS STUFFED with with CREAM CREAM Kaymakli Kayisi Tatlisi Use large dried apricots for this famous Turkish sweet. You need to soak them in water overnight (even if you are using a semi-dried moist variety). The cream used in Turkey is the thick kaymak kaymak made from water-buffaloes' milk. The best alternatives in this country are clotted cream or mascarpone. made from water-buffaloes' milk. The best alternatives in this country are clotted cream or mascarpone.

SERVES 4 TO 6 pound (1 cups) large dried and pitted apricots, soaked in water overnight1 cups water1 cups sugar1 tablespoon lemon juice1 cup clotted cream or mascarpone3 tablespoons pistachios, finely chopped Drain the apricots. Make a syrup by boiling the water with the sugar and lemon juice. Add the apricots and simmer for 20 minutes, or until the apricots are soft and the syrup is reduced and thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Leave to cool.

Enlarge the slit along one side of each apricot and stuff with a little cream or mascarpone. Arrange the apricots on a dish and serve, sprinkled with the chopped pistachios.

COMPOTE of of FRESH APRICOTS FRESH APRICOTS Kayisi Compostosu Compotes of dried or fresh fruits in syrup are popular desserts. At parties in Turkey, they are the last thing to be served, signaling that there is nothing more to follow. This sharp-tasting compote with fresh apricots is especially delicious. I add pistachios for their color as well as for their taste, and they should be peeled for this dish. To do this most easily, poach them in water for 1 1 to to 2 2 minutes and drain; when they are cool enough to handle, pull off or squeeze away the skins. minutes and drain; when they are cool enough to handle, pull off or squeeze away the skins.

SERVES 6 OR MORE 2 pounds apricots, washed and pits removed2 cups water1 cup sugar cup blanched almonds or pistachios cup pine nutsTo serve: 1 cup plain whole-milk yogurt or heavy cream (optional) Put the apricots in a wide pan with the water and sugar. Bring to the boil and simmer for a few minutes, until the apricots soften, turning them once if the water does not entirely cover them. Lift them out and put them to one side while you reduce the syrup by simmering it until it is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Return the apricots to the pan, add the almonds or pistachios and pine nuts and cook 1 to 2 minutes more. Serve cold, with yogurt or cream, if you wish.

ORANGE PUDDING Portakali Tatlisi This orange jelly with orange slices can also be made with the juice of freshly squeezed blood oranges or clementines. Many supermarkets and stores now sell these juices freshly squeezed, which makes it an easy pudding to prepare. It is set with cornstarch and is not as firm as a jelly set with gelatine.

SERVES 8 4 cups orange or tangerine juice, freshly squeezed cup sugar1/3 cup cornstarch3 large orangesseeds of 1 pomegranateTo serve: 1 cup whipping or heavy cream, whipped Bring the orange or tangerine juice to the boil with the sugar. Dissolve the cornstarch in 1 cup water and pour it into the simmering juice, stirring vigorously. Continue to stir, in one direction only, until the mixture thickens, then cook over a low heat for about 15 minutes.

Peel the oranges, taking care to remove all the white pith. Cut each orange into thick slices and each slice into 4 pieces. Remove the pips.

Let the orange mixture cool and pour into a gla.s.s serving bowl. Stir in the pieces of orange, cover with plastic wrap, and chill in the refrigerator for a few hours.

Sprinkle the pomegranate seeds over the pudding and serve with whipped cream.

ROAST QUINCES Ayva Tatlisi I love these roast quinces even more than the famous quinces in syrup that I have written about in other books, because here the fruits keep their natural and unique taste and perfume. Quinces can be small like an apple, and they can be huge and weigh up to 1 1 pound each. You need about pound each. You need about pound per person so a large one is enough for two. Cooking times vary depending on their size and degree of ripeness. Quinces are available in farmers' markets and in Middle Eastern stores. pound per person so a large one is enough for two. Cooking times vary depending on their size and degree of ripeness. Quinces are available in farmers' markets and in Middle Eastern stores.Kaymak (see page (see page 218 218 ) is the cream served with it in Turkey, but clotted cream or mascarpone will do very well. ) is the cream served with it in Turkey, but clotted cream or mascarpone will do very well.

SERVES 6 3 large or 6 small quinces (weighing about 3 pounds)1/3 stick (2 tablespoons) unsalted b.u.t.ter6 tablespoons sugarTo serve: 2/3 cup clotted cream or mascarpone Wash the quinces, rubbing their skins to remove the light down that sometimes covers them in patches. Roast them whole, in an oven preheated to 375F, until they feel soft. Depending on their size and ripeness, it can take from 1 hour up to 2 hours for the largest, so watch them carefully. (The three I cooked, weighing 2 pounds, took 1 hours.) When they are cool enough to handle, cut them in half through the core, and cut away the blackened ends and the cores with a pointed knife. Place them, cut side up, on a baking sheet. Put a sliver of b.u.t.ter on top of each half and sprinkle each with 1 tablespoon sugar.

Put them back in the oven for to 1 hour, until they are very soft and have turned a rich burgundy color. If you like, put them under the broiler for moments only, until the sugar just begins to caramelize. It fills the kitchen with a sweet smell.

Serve hot with clotted cream or mascarpone.

PUMPKIN DESSERT Kabak Tatlisi Pumpkin is frequently used in Turkey in sweet as well as savory dishes. This is a "cheese" with an unusual, delicious flavor. It is best made the night before and keeps very well for days in the refrigerator. You need the large pumpkins with the sweet orange flesh. They are winter vegetables, but you can now buy them most of the year in Asian and Middle Eastern stores, where they are sold by the slice, weighing between 1 1 pound and pound and 2 2 pounds, the seeds and stringy fibers removed. Some greengrocers also sell them by the slice. pounds, the seeds and stringy fibers removed. Some greengrocers also sell them by the slice.In Turkey, this dessert is served with the very thick cream call kaymak kaymak (see page (see page 218 218 ) but clotted cream or mascarpone will do very well. It is very rich, so serve small portions. ) but clotted cream or mascarpone will do very well. It is very rich, so serve small portions.

SERVES 10 4 to 4 pounds pumpkin slices2 cups sugar1 cups walnuts, finely choppedTo serve: 1 cup clotted cream or mascarpone Prepare the pumpkin. Sc.r.a.pe away any remaining seeds or stringy bits. The rind is very thin and hard. It is more easily removed if you first cut the slices into chunks. Lay the chunks, skin side facing you, and cut it away, pressing down with force with a large, heavy knife.

Cut the flesh into pieces of about 1 to 1 inches. Put them in a wide saucepan with 1 cup water, and cook, tightly covered so that they steam, over low heat for about 20 minutes, or until the flesh is very tender. Drain and mash the flesh with a potato masher. Continue to cook, now uncovered, so that most of the liquid evaporates.

Stir in the sugar and continue to cook until all the water is absorbed, stirring often and making sure that the puree doesn't burn.

Spread the paste on a serving plate, cover with plastic wrap, and leave in the refrigerator overnight. Serve cold, sprinkled all over with walnuts, and accompanied by the cream or mascarpone.

RICE PUDDING with with ROSE WATER ROSE WATER Sutlac Egg yolks give this version of rice pudding a wonderful creamy texture. It has a delicate taste of rose water and mastic. The mastic-unfortunately labeled "gum mastic"-has nothing at all to do with the waterproof filler called mastic, nor with the glue called "gum arabic" sold in the building trades. It is an aromatic resin from trees that grow on the Greek island of Chios. It comes in tiny translucent grains. Be careful not to use too much as it results in a bitter taste. You must pound and grind the grains with a teaspoon of sugar to a fine powder in a pestle with a mortar. A few drops of vanilla essence are an alternative flavoring if you cannot get gum mastic.The pudding is addictive, homely, comfort food. A brittle caramel topping turns it into a more glamorous option.

SERVES 6 cup Italian short-grain or risotto rice1 cups water5 cups whole milk cup sugar1 to 1 tablespoons rose water teaspoon pulverized gum mastic or 3 drops vanilla essence4 egg yolksFor the caramel topping: 4 tablespoons superfine sugar (optional) Put the rice in a large pan with the water. Bring it to the boil and simmer for 8 minutes, or until the water is absorbed. Add the milk and simmer on very low heat for 30 to 40 minutes, or until the rice is very soft but there is still quite a bit of liquid left. Stir occasionally with a wooden spoon so that the rice does not stick to the bottom of the pan.

Put in the sugar and stir until it has dissolved. Add the rose water, turn off the heat, and sprinkle on the gum mastic, stirring vigorously. If you are using vanilla essence, put it in at the same time as the sugar.

Beat the egg yolks in a small bowl, then beat in a ladleful of the simmering pudding. Add this mixture to the pan, stirring constantly for a few moments only, until the liquid thickens a little (it becomes creamy), but do not let it boil or the yolks will curdle. Pour the pudding into a serving dish-use a heatproof one if you are making the caramel topping-let it cool, and then refrigerate, covered in plastic wrap.

If you are going to add the caramel topping, the pudding must be chilled before you add the sugar. Sprinkle the top with the 4 tablespoons sugar and put under a pre-heated broiler. The sugar will bubble and gradually turn into dark caramel. If it is too near the broiler, burnt spots will appear. If that happens, you can just lift them off when the caramel has cooled and hardened. Refrigerate before serving.

MILK and and ALMOND PUDDING ALMOND PUDDING Keskul Turkey has a very wide range of milk puddings. I once spent much of one night watching specialist milk puddingmakers at work, endlessly stirring creams in giant copper cauldrons. They said they had to work at night because that was when the milk arrived, which was why, they complained, they could not recruit young people to do the job. I don't blame them. This pudding, made with ground almonds, is my favorite.

SERVES 6 cup blanched almonds4 cups whole milk cup rice flour cup sugar2 to 3 drops of almond essenceTo garnish: 2 tablespoons finely chopped or pounded pistachios Grind the almonds finely in the food processor. Bring the milk to the boil, preferably in a nonstick pan, which prevents the cream sticking and burning at the bottom, then take it off the heat.

In a small bowl, mix the rice flour to a paste with 4 to 5 tablespoons of water, making sure there are no lumps. Add this to the milk, stirring vigorously with a wooden spoon, and cook over low heat, stirring constantly, and always in the same direction, to avoid lumps forming, for about 15 minutes, or until the mixture begins to thicken. (If lumps form, you can save the cream by beating it with an electric beater.) Add the ground almonds and continue to cook on the lowest possible heat, stirring occasionally, for 20 minutes, or until the consistency is that of a thin porridge. Then add the sugar and continue to cook, stirring, until it has dissolved. Always stir in the same direction. Do not sc.r.a.pe the bottom of the pan (in case it sticks and burns a little, you don't want to sc.r.a.pe up any burnt bits).

Stir in the almond essence, let the pudding cool, then pour it into a gla.s.s serving bowl or individual bowls. Serve chilled, sprinkled with the chopped pistachios.

NOTE In Turkey, it is a traditional option to serve this with a heaped teaspoonful of kaymak kaymak (see page 218) but here you can use clotted cream. Make a little slit in the skin of each portion, and slip through it a heaped teaspoon of clotted cream. (see page 218) but here you can use clotted cream. Make a little slit in the skin of each portion, and slip through it a heaped teaspoon of clotted cream.

YOGURT CAKE Yogurtlu Tatlisi There are many versions of Turkish yogurt cake. This one is like a light, airy, fresh-tasting cheese-cake. If you wish, you can make a syrup, which should be pa.s.sed around in a jug for people to help themselves. I prefer the cake pure and simple, without the syrup.