VARIATIONS For a spicy Moroccan version, add 1 crushed garlic clove, a pinch of cayenne, teaspoon paprika, teaspoon ground c.u.min, and 1 tablespoon chopped cilantro leaves.

For a Lebanese version, mix in 1 to 2 tablespoons of pomegranate mola.s.ses (see page 7), plus 2 crushed garlic cloves and 3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley.

EGGPLANT PUReE with with YOGURT YOGURT Yourtlu Patlican Salatasi Yogurt softens the flavors and adds to the creamy texture of this refreshing puree.

SERVES 6 TO 8 2 or 3 eggplants (weighing about 1 pounds)juice of to 1 lemon2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil1 cup strained Greek-style yogurt2 to 3 garlic cloves, crushed (optional)saltTo garnish: 1 to 2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley or mint (optional) p.r.i.c.k the eggplants with a pointed knife to prevent them from bursting in the oven. Place them on a large piece of foil on a baking sheet and roast them in a hot oven pre-heated to 475F for about 45 to 55 minutes, or until they feel very soft when you press them and the skins are wrinkled. When cool enough to handle, peel and drop them into a strainer or colander with small holes. Press out as much of the water and juices as possible. Still in the colander, chop the flesh with a pointed knife, then mash it with a fork or wooden spoon, letting the juices escape through the holes.

Beat in the lemon juice, olive oil, yogurt, garlic, if using, and a little salt. Serve garnished, if you like, with parsley or mint.

TARAMA Gray mullet roe was originally used in Turkey for this famous dip (also known under the Greek name taramasalata taramasalata ) but smoked cod's roe has now generally replaced it. This is a world away from what you can buy ready-prepared and is really worth making. Serve it with Turkish or pita bread. ) but smoked cod's roe has now generally replaced it. This is a world away from what you can buy ready-prepared and is really worth making. Serve it with Turkish or pita bread.

SERVES 6 TO 8 1 slice of white bread, crusts removed7 ounces smoked cod's roejuice of 1 lemon3 tablespoons sunflower oil2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Soak the bread in water. Skin the smoked cod's roe and blend in the food processor. Add the bread, squeezed dry, the lemon juice, sunflower oil, and olive oil and blend to a creamy consistency that should still be a little rough, adding 1 or 2 tablespoons of water, if necessary.

CUc.u.mBER and and YOGURT SALAD YOGURT SALAD Cacik This salad is popular throughout the Middle East. Unless it is to be eaten as soon as it is made, it is best to salt the cuc.u.mber and let the juices drain before mixing with the yogurt; otherwise it gets very watery. If possible, use the small cuc.u.mbers sold in Middle Eastern and Asian stores-they have a finer flavor than the large ones. Cacik Cacik is served as part of a is served as part of a meze meze and also as a side dish-to be eaten with spoons from little individual side bowls-to accompany pies, meat dishes, and rice. It even makes a lovely cold summer soup. Use plain whole-milk yogurt. and also as a side dish-to be eaten with spoons from little individual side bowls-to accompany pies, meat dishes, and rice. It even makes a lovely cold summer soup. Use plain whole-milk yogurt.

SERVES 4 TO 6 4 small cuc.u.mbers or 1 large onesalt2 cups plain whole-milk yogurt2 garlic cloves, crushed (optional)2 sprigs of finely chopped mint or dill, or 2 teaspoons dried, crushed mint Peel and dice or grate the cuc.u.mbers, or cut them in half lengthwise, and then into half-moon slices. Unless the salad is to be served immediately, sprinkle with salt and leave for to 1 hour in a colander for the juices to drain.

Beat the yogurt in a serving bowl with the crushed garlic, if using, and the mint or dill, and fold in the cuc.u.mber. Add a little salt, taking into account the saltiness of the cuc.u.mber if you have salted it, although most of the salt will have gone with the drained juices.

EGGPLANT SLICES with with WALNUTS WALNUTS and and GARLIC GARLIC Cevizli Patlican This strongly flavored version of a very common meze meze originates in Georgia, where walnut trees abound. There is plenty of garlic, but it is not overpowering because it is fried. The eggplant slices can be deep-fried, but I prefer them roasted in the oven. They should be served cold, and they can be made in advance. originates in Georgia, where walnut trees abound. There is plenty of garlic, but it is not overpowering because it is fried. The eggplant slices can be deep-fried, but I prefer them roasted in the oven. They should be served cold, and they can be made in advance.

SERVES 6 2 pounds eggplants.e.xtra virgin olive oil2 to 3 tablespoons wine vinegarsalt6 to 7 garlic cloves, crushed1/3 cup walnutshandful of chopped flat-leaf parsley Wash the eggplants and cut them lengthwise into slices a little more than a quarter of an inch thick. Place them on a well-oiled piece of foil on an oven tray and brush them with olive oil on both sides. Cook in an oven preheated to 475F for about 20 minutes, or until lightly browned and soft, turning them over once.

Arrange them on flat serving plates, then brush with vinegar and sprinkle lightly with salt.

Soften the garlic in 1 tablespoon of olive oil over medium heat until the aroma rises, but do not let it color. Finely chop the walnuts in a food processor and mix with the chopped parsley in a bowl. Add the garlic with another tablespoon of olive oil and a sprinkling of salt, mix well, and spread this paste on the eggplant slices.

PEPPERY BULGUR SALAD Kisir Kisir is a salad from Gaziantep. You need the fine-ground (not medium) bulgur, which you can find in Middle Eastern stores. The chili pepper gives it a thrilling zing but you can leave it out. Serve the salad with little lettuce leaves that can be used as scoops. is a salad from Gaziantep. You need the fine-ground (not medium) bulgur, which you can find in Middle Eastern stores. The chili pepper gives it a thrilling zing but you can leave it out. Serve the salad with little lettuce leaves that can be used as scoops.

SERVES 6 1 cup fine bulgur cup boiling water1 tablespoon tomato pastejuice of 1 lemons5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil to 1 fresh red or green chili pepper, finely choppedsalt5 to 7 scallions3 tomatoes (about 11 ounces), diced cup chopped flat-leaf parsley2 tablespoons chopped mint leavesTo serve: 2 Little Gem (baby romaine) lettuces Put the bulgur into a bowl, pour the boiling water over it, stir, and leave for 15 to 20 minutes, until the grain is tender. Don't be tempted to add more water since the juice from the lemons and tomatoes will soften it further.

Add the tomato paste, lemon juice, olive oil, chili pepper, and some salt and mix thoroughly. Trim the green tops off the scallions, then slice them finely. Add them and the diced tomatoes to the bulgur mixture, together with the parsley and mint and mix well.

Serve with the small lettuce leaves stuck around the edges of the salad. Another way is to roll the bulgur mixture into oval b.a.l.l.s the size of a small egg and to place each one in the hollow of a lettuce leaf.

VARIATION Add 1 to 2 tablespoons of pomegranate mola.s.ses (see page 7) to the dressing. This gives the grain a sweet-and-sour flavor.

LEEKS with with EGG EGG and and LEMON SAUCE LEMON SAUCE Terbiyeli Pirasa An egg and lemon sauce is one of Turkey's culinary signature tunes. A touch of sugar gives it a slight sweet-and-sour taste. I like making this dish, which can be served hot or cold, with baby leeks, but larger ones can be used instead.

SERVES 4 TO 6 1 pounds baby leekssalt2 egg yolksjuice of 1 lemons1 teaspoon sugar Wash the leeks in running water, making sure you remove any dirt trapped between the leaves. Trim the root ends and the tough tops of the green leaves.

Boil the leeks in salted water until tender, then drain, reserving 1 cup of the cooking water. Pour this cooking water back into the pan and bring to the boil.

In a small bowl, beat the egg yolks and lemon juice with the sugar. Pour in a little of the hot cooking water and beat well, then pour the egg and lemon mixture into the pan, beating vigorously, for seconds only until the sauce thickens slightly. Be careful not to let it boil or it will curdle. Add a little salt, if necessary, to taste.

Serve the leeks hot or cold with the sauce poured over.

CELERIAC with with EGG EGG and and LEMON SAUCE LEMON SAUCE Terbiyeli Kereviz Celeriac is a popular winter vegetable in Turkey. The creamy, gently sweet-and-sour sauce enhances its delicate flavor. It is as good cold as it is hot.

SERVES 4 1 celeriac (weighing about 2 pounds)juice of 1 lemonsalt1 teaspoon sugar2 egg yolks Cut away the k.n.o.bbly skin of the celeriac and cut the flesh into -inch cubes. (It is a very hard root and you will need to use a big strong knife and quite a bit of force.) Put the celeriac cubes in a pan and barely cover with water. Add the juice of lemon, some salt, and the sugar, and simmer, covered, for 15 to 20 minutes, or until just tender.

Just before serving, beat the egg yolks with the remaining lemon juice in a little bowl. Beat in 2 to 3 tablespoons of the cooking water, then pour the egg and lemon mixture into the pan, stirring vigorously. Heat through, stirring constantly, but do not let it boil or the egg will curdle.

Serve hot or cold with the sauce poured on top.

ROASTED EGGPLANTS and and BELL PEPPERS BELL PEPPERS with with YOGURT YOGURT and and PINE NUTS PINE NUTS This is one of my favorites. It makes a good first course as well as a vegetarian main dish. The vegetables can be served hot or cold and the yogurt should be at room temperature. I mix the two kinds of yogurt-plain whole-milk and strained Greek-style yogurt-to get a thick creamy texture that still pours well.

SERVES 6 4 small eggplants (about 2 pounds)3 large red bell peppers1 tablespoon lemon juice4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oilsalt and black pepper cup plain whole-milk yogurt cup strained Greek-style yogurt2 garlic cloves, crushed cup pine nuts p.r.i.c.k the eggplants with a pointed knife to prevent them exploding in the oven. Place them and the peppers on a large piece of foil on a baking sheet and roast in an oven pre-heated to 425F for about 45 to 60 minutes, until the eggplants feel soft when you press them. Turn the peppers one half turn after 25 minutes and take them out before the eggplants when they are soft and their skins are blackened in places.

As the peppers come out of the oven, drop them in a strong plastic bag and twist to seal it closed. When cool enough to handle, peel them, remove and discard the stems and seeds, and cut them in half or in 4 lengthwise.

When they are cool enough to handle, peel the eggplants and drop into a colander. Press the flesh gently to let the juices run out. Cut each into 4 pieces and turn them in a little lemon juice to prevent them from discoloring.

Put the eggplants and peppers on one side of a shallow serving plate. Dress with 3 tablespoons olive oil, salt, and pepper and mix gently. Mix the two types of yogurt together, beat in the garlic and some salt, and pour onto the other side of the plate.

Just before serving, fry the pine nuts in the remaining oil, stirring, until very lightly browned, and sprinkle over the yogurt. Pa.s.s the dish round for people to help themselves.

ROASTED VEGETABLES with with YOGURT YOGURT and and FRESH TOMATO SAUCE FRESH TOMATO SAUCE A very traditional meze meze is fried eggplants served with yogurt and tomato sauce. I like to do the same with a mix of roasted vegetables, and I serve them either hot or cold. It is the kind of thing you can do easily in large quant.i.ties for a party. It can be done a day in advance, cooking the vegetables in batches, if necessary, and reheating them, if you wish, on the day. The yogurt should be at room temperature. The tomato sauce has a sweet-and-sour flavor and is served cold. is fried eggplants served with yogurt and tomato sauce. I like to do the same with a mix of roasted vegetables, and I serve them either hot or cold. It is the kind of thing you can do easily in large quant.i.ties for a party. It can be done a day in advance, cooking the vegetables in batches, if necessary, and reheating them, if you wish, on the day. The yogurt should be at room temperature. The tomato sauce has a sweet-and-sour flavor and is served cold.

SERVES 6 2 medium eggplants3 fleshy red or green bell peppers3 fat zucchini4 medium red or white onions.e.xtra virgin olive oilsalt2 cups plain whole-milk yogurt2 teaspoons dried mint1 to 2 garlic cloves, crushed (optional)FOR THE TOMATO SAUCE3 garlic cloves, chopped1 to 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil1 pounds tomatoes, peeled and chopped1 tablespoon sugarsaltgood pinch of ground chili pepper or flakes2 tablespoons wine vinegar Cut the eggplants in half lengthwise and then into -inch-thick slices. Cut the peppers in half through the stem end, remove the seeds, and cut them in half again, lengthwise. Cut the zucchini into -inch slices crosswise. Cut the onions into quarters.

Each type of vegetable should be placed on separate pieces of foil on baking trays since they take different times to cook. Sprinkle the vegetable pieces generously with olive oil and with a little salt and turn them around with your hand so that they are lightly oiled all over.

Roast them in your hottest preheated oven for about 25 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender and lightly browned, taking each type of vegetable out as they are done.

Serve the roasted vegetables hot or cold. They should be placed on a large serving dish and pa.s.sed around with a bowl of yogurt into which you have beaten a little salt, dried mint, and, if you like, crushed garlic, and a bowl of the following tomato sauce.

Heat the chopped garlic in the oil for a few seconds only, stirring, until the aroma rises. Add the tomatoes, sugar, salt, and chili pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 20 minutes, until reduced and thick. Add the vinegar toward the end.

ZUCCHINI FRITTERS Kabak Mucveri Fried onions, feta cheese, and herbs lift what is otherwise a bland vegetable. These little fritters can be served hot or cold. They can be made in advance and reheated.

SERVES 4 1 large onion, coa.r.s.ely chopped3 tablespoons vegetable or sunflower oil, plus more for frying1 pound zucchini, finely chopped3 eggs3 tablespoons all-purpose flourblack pepper2 to 3 sprigs of mint, chopped2 to 3 sprigs of dill, chopped7 ounces feta cheese, mashed with a fork Fry the onion in 3 tablespoons oil over medium heat until it is soft and lightly colored. Add the zucchini and saute, stirring, until they, too, are soft.

In a bowl, beat the eggs with the flour until well blended. Add pepper (there is no need of salt because the feta cheese is very salty) and the chopped herbs, and mix well. Fold the mashed feta into the eggs, together with the cooked onions and zucchini.

Film the bottom of a preferably nonstick frying pan with oil and pour in the mixture by the half ladle (or 2 tablespoons) to make a few fritters at a time. Turn each over once, and cook until both sides are browned a little. Drain on paper towels.

BEETS with with YOGURT YOGURT Pancar Salatasi Beets may be boiled or roasted, but I think roasting, which takes much longer, gives them a deliciously intense flavor. It is best to buy small ones because they take less time to cook. Or, of course, you can buy them already cooked.

SERVES 6 TO 8 2 pounds beets2 garlic cloves, crushed (optional)2 cups strained Greek-style yogurt2 tablespoons lemon juice6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oilsalthandful of chopped mint or flat-leaf parsley Cut the stems and leaves about of an inch above the beets. To boil them, cook them in plenty of boiling salted water until tender-small ones will take about 30 minutes, larger ones about 1 hours. To roast them, put them on a sheet of foil on a baking sheet, cover them with foil, and roast in the oven at 400F for 2 to 3 hours, depending on their size, until one feels tender when you cut right through with a pointed knife. You could cut them in half (lay them cut side down) and reduce the cooking time considerably.

When cool enough to handle, peel and cut the beets into less than -inch-thick rounds or half-moon slices. Wear rubber gloves to avoid staining your hands.

Beat the crushed garlic, if using, into the yogurt and spread the mixture on a serving plate. Arrange the beet slices on top. Beat the lemon juice with the oil and a little salt, stir in the chopped mint or parsley, and spoon over the beet slices.

VARIATION A Lebanese version uses 1 tablespoons tahina tahina (see page 7) beaten into the yogurt. This, too, is delicious. (see page 7) beaten into the yogurt. This, too, is delicious.

MASHED POTATOES with with OLIVE OIL, SCALLIONS, OLIVE OIL, SCALLIONS, and and PARSLEY PARSLEY Patates Salatasi This is as good hot as it is cold and can be served as part of a meze meze or as a side dish. or as a side dish.

SERVES 6 1 pounds baking potatoes6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oilsalt and pepperabout 6 scallions, choppedhandful of chopped flat-leaf parsley Peel and boil the potatoes in salted water until soft. Drain, keeping about cup of the cooking water.

Mash the potatoes and beat in the olive oil. Add salt and pepper to taste and a little of the cooking water-enough to make a soft, slightly moist texture. Then stir in the scallions and the chopped parsley.

EGGPLANTS STUFFED with with ONIONS ONIONS and and TOMATOES TOMATOES Imam Bayildy Imam Bayildi is one of the most famous Turkish dishes. Conflicting stories are told about the origin of its name, which means "the Imam fainted." Some say it came about when an is one of the most famous Turkish dishes. Conflicting stories are told about the origin of its name, which means "the Imam fainted." Some say it came about when an Imam Imam (Muslim priest) fainted with pleasure when it was served to him by his wife. Others believe that the (Muslim priest) fainted with pleasure when it was served to him by his wife. Others believe that the Imam Imam fainted when he heard how much of his expensive olive oil had gone into its making. It is best cooked in a saucepan, but you may find it easier in the oven. Serve it cold. fainted when he heard how much of his expensive olive oil had gone into its making. It is best cooked in a saucepan, but you may find it easier in the oven. Serve it cold.Small, elongated eggplants-at most 5 5 inches long, each weighing about inches long, each weighing about 4 4 to to 4 4 ounces-are best for this dish. You will find them in Asian and Middle Eastern stores. ounces-are best for this dish. You will find them in Asian and Middle Eastern stores.

SERVES 6 FOR THE FILLING1 large onions, sliced thinly2 to 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil5 garlic cloves, chopped4 tomatoes, peeled and chopped3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsleysalt6 small eggplants (see above)1 cup good-quality tomato juice1 teaspoon sugar, or more to tastesaltjuice of 1 lemon2/3 cup extra virgin olive oil Make the filling first. Soften the sliced onions gently in the oil, but do not let them color. Add the chopped garlic and stir for a moment or two until the aroma rises. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the tomatoes and the chopped parsley. Season to taste with salt, and mix well.

Trim the caps from the ends of the eggplants (you may leave the stalks on). Peel off 1/3-inch-wide strips of skin lengthwise, leaving alternate strips of peel and bare flesh. Make a deep cut on one side of each eggplant lengthwise, from one end to the other, but not right through, in order to make a pocket.

Stuff the pocket of each eggplant with the filling and place them tightly side by side, with the opening face up, in a wide shallow pan. Mix the tomato juice with a little sugar, salt, and the lemon juice and pour this and the oil over the eggplants. Cover the pan and simmer gently for about 45 minutes, or until the eggplants are soft and the liquid much reduced.

Alternatively, you can cook the stuffed eggplants in the oven. Arrange them, cut side up, in a baking dish, with the rest of the ingredients poured over. Cover with foil and cook in the oven preheated to 400F for 1 hour, or until soft. Allow to cool before arranging on a serving dish.

EGGPLANT PILAF Patlicanli Pilav This is a cold pilaf to serve as a first course. It has an exciting combination of ingredients and flavors, while a mix of cinnamon and allspice lend a beautiful light brown color.

SERVES 4 1 pound eggplantssaltabout 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil1 medium onion, chopped3 tablespoons pine nuts1 cup long-grain rice2 medium tomatoes, peeled and chopped1 teaspoons sugar2 tablespoons currants or small black raisinssalt and black pepper1 teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon ground allspice4 tablespoons chopped dill Peel the eggplants and cut them into 1-inch cubes. Place them on a sheet of foil on a baking tray. Sprinkle with salt and pour over enough olive oil so that when the eggplant pieces are turned, they are well covered with oil. Preheat the oven to its highest temperature, and bake the eggplants for 25 minutes, or until they are soft and lightly browned.

Fry the onion in 2 tablespoons olive oil until it is soft and golden. Add the pine nuts and when they begin to color, add the rice and stir until it is well coated with oil. Add the tomatoes and the sugar and simmer for 5 minutes.

Add the currants or raisins and 1 cups water. Season with salt, pepper, cinnamon, and allspice and stir gently. Cook, covered, over a low heat until the liquid is absorbed and the rice is tender. It can take up to 20 minutes. (Some brands that claim not to be parboiled or precooked now take as little as 8 to 10 minutes, so read the information on the package.) Remove the lid toward the end if it is too moist.

Stir in 4 to 5 tablespoons olive oil and the chopped dill. Very gently fold in the eggplants and serve cold.

GRAPE LEAVES STUFFED with with RICE, RAISINS, RICE, RAISINS, and and PINE NUTS PINE NUTS Zeytinya gli Yaprak Dolmasi gli Yaprak Dolmasi Stuffed grape leaves were served at the court of King Khusrow II in Persia in the early seventh century. Their popularity spread through the Muslim world when the caliphs of Baghdad adopted Persian cooking traditions, while the Ottomans introduced them throughout their empire. There are numerous versions of this delicacy today, which is popular in every country throughout the Middle East. The following, with raisins and pine nuts, is a Turkish version. It is served cold.Short-grain or risotto rice is used because the grains stick together. Grape leaves can be bought preserved in brine and vacuum-packed, but if you can get hold of young fresh tender ones, do use them. They freeze well raw, wrapped in foil.

SERVES 8 OR MORE pound grape leaves2 large onions, finely chopped2/3 cup extra virgin olive oil2 tablespoons pine nuts1 teaspoons tomato paste1 cup short-grain or risotto rice2 tablespoons currants or tiny black raisinssalt and black pepper1 teaspoon ground allspice2 to 3 tablespoons chopped mint2 to 3 tablespoons chopped dill2 tomatoes, sliced1 teaspoon sugarjuice of 1 lemon, or to taste If using grape leaves preserved in brine, remove the salt by putting them in a bowl and pouring boiling water over them. Make sure that the water penetrates well between the layers. Leave them to soak for 20 minutes, then rinse in fresh, cold water and drain. If using fresh leaves, plunge a few at a time in boiling water for a couple of seconds only, until they become limp, then lift them out. Cut off and discard the stalks.

For the filling, fry the onions in 3 tablespoons of the oil until soft. Add the pine nuts and stir until they are golden. Stir in the tomato paste, then add all the rest of the ingredients down to and including the chopped dill. Mix well.

On a plate, place the first leaf, vein side up, with the stem end facing you. Put one heaped teaspoonful of filling in the center of the leaf near the stem end. Fold that end up over the filling, then fold both sides toward the middle and roll up like a small cigar. Squeeze the filled roll lightly in the palm of your hand. Fill the rest of the leaves in the same way. This process will become very easy after you have rolled a few.

Line the bottom of a large, heavy-bottomed pan with tomato slices and any leftover, torn, or imperfect grape leaves, then pack the stuffed grape leaves tightly on top.

Mix the remaining olive oil with 2/3 cup water, add the sugar and lemon juice, and pour over the stuffed leaves. Put a small plate on top of the leaves to prevent them from unrolling, cover the pan, and simmer very gently for about 1 hour, until the rolls are thoroughly cooked, adding more water occasionally, a small coffee cupful at a time, as the liquid in the pan becomes absorbed. Let the stuffed grape leaves cool in the pan before turning them out.

BELL PEPPERS STUFFED with with RICE, RAISINS, RICE, RAISINS, and and PINE NUTS PINE NUTS Zeytinyagli Biber Dolmasi This is the cla.s.sic Turkish rice filling for vegetables to be served cold. Choose plump bell peppers that can stand on their base. I prefer to use red peppers because they are sweeter and for the color, but in Turkey green ones are more often used.

SERVES 6 1 large onion, finely chopped6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil1 cups short-grain or risotto ricesalt and pepper1 to 2 teaspoons sugar3 tablespoons pine nuts3 tablespoons currants or tiny black raisins1 large tomato, peeled and chopped1 teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon ground allspice2 tablespoons chopped mint2 tablespoons chopped dill2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsleyjuice of 1 lemon6 medium green or red bell peppersTo serve: 1 cup plain whole-milk yogurt mixed with 1 garlic clove, crushed (optional) For the filling, fry the onion in 3 tablespoons oil until soft. Add the rice and stir until thoroughly coated and translucent. Pour in 2 cups water and add salt, pepper, and sugar. Stir well and cook for 15 minutes, or until the water has been absorbed but the rice is still a little underdone. Stir in the pine nuts, currants or raisins, tomato, cinnamon, all-spice, mint, dill, parsley, and lemon juice, as well as the rest of the oil.

Retaining the stalk, cut a circle around the stalk end of the peppers and set to one side to use as caps. Remove the cores and seeds with a spoon and discard. Fill the peppers with the rice mixture, and replace the caps.

Arrange the peppers side by side in a shallow baking dish, pour about inch water into the bottom, and bake in the oven preheated to 375F for 45 to 55 minutes, or until the peppers are tender. Be careful that they do not fall apart.

Serve cold, accompanied, if you like, by a bowl of yogurt beaten with or without crushed garlic.

TOMATOES STUFFED with with RICE, RAISINS, RICE, RAISINS, and and PINE NUTS PINE NUTS Zeytinya gli Domates Dolmasi gli Domates Dolmasi Use the same filling as above for 6 firm, large tomatoes (beefsteak tomatoes are best) or 12 medium ones. Cut a small circle around the stem end and cut out a cap from each tomato. Remove and discard the center and seeds with a pointed teaspoon. Fill with the rice stuffing given in Bell Peppers Stuffed with Rice, Raisins, and Pine Nuts above and replace the caps.

Arrange the tomatoes in a shallow baking dish and bake in an oven preheated to 350F for 20 to 30 minutes, until the tomatoes are soft. Watch them carefully, and remove them if they start to fall apart.

Serve cold, accompanied by yogurt flavored, if you like, with the crushed garlic.

ARTICHOKES STEWED in in OIL OIL with with PEAS PEAS and and CARROTS CARROTS Zeytinyagli Enginar This cla.s.sic Turkish combination is gently flavored with dill, lemon, garlic, and a tiny bit of sugar. It looks wonderful on the serving dish.I use the frozen artichoke bottoms from Egypt, which I get in Middle Eastern stores, and fresh young peas that I am lucky enough to find already podded from my supermarket; however, frozen pet.i.ts pois pet.i.ts pois will do very well. If you want to use fresh artichokes, see page will do very well. If you want to use fresh artichokes, see page 8 8 on how to prepare them. on how to prepare them.

SERVES 6 pound carrots, peeled and diced2 garlic cloves, chopped4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oilone 14-ounce package artichoke bottoms, defrostedsalt and pepper7 ounces young peas (sh.e.l.led weight) or frozen pet.i.t pois pet.i.t pois, defrostedjuice of 1 lemon, or to taste1 teaspoon sugar3 tablespoons chopped dill Put the diced carrots in a pan wide enough, if possible, to hold the artichoke bottoms in one layer. Add the chopped garlic, 3 tablespoons oil, and about 1 cups cold water. Bring to the boil and simmer for 5 minutes.

Put in the artichoke bottoms, season with salt and pepper, and simmer for 7 to 10 minutes, until they are just tender, turning them over once. Then add the peas, lemon juice, sugar, and dill, and cook 2 to 5 minutes more (less if they are the tiny pet.i.ts pois pet.i.ts pois), or until the peas are cooked.

Place the artichoke bottoms on a serving plate, and spoon some of the carrots and peas into each. Pour the remaining reduced sauce around them. Serve cold with a drizzle of the remaining olive oil over the top.

VARIATION Instead of peas use fava beans. Although it depends on how young they are, they usually need cooking a little longer, so put them in at the same time as the artichokes.

To add body to the sauce, put a diced potato in 5 minutes before the carrots. It will fall apart by the end of the cooking and thicken the sauce.

BAKED PASTA with with CHEESE CHEESE Peynirli Eriste A pasta like tagliatelle called eriste eriste is a traditional Turkish food that is still made by hand in rural areas. This recipe, with feta cheese, eggs, and milk is easy-to-make comfort food. It can be served as a first or main course and can be made in advance and heated through before serving. is a traditional Turkish food that is still made by hand in rural areas. This recipe, with feta cheese, eggs, and milk is easy-to-make comfort food. It can be served as a first or main course and can be made in advance and heated through before serving.

SERVES 4 2 cups milk4 eggs7 ounces feta cheese, mashed with a forksalt10 ounces dry tagliatelle nests Bring the milk to the boil. Lightly beat the eggs in a bowl, then beat in the milk. Add the mashed feta to the milk and eggs with some salt (it still needs some despite the saltiness of the cheese).

Crush the tagliatelle nests into small pieces with your hands. Throw them into plenty of boiling, salted water and cook until done al dente, about 5 to 8 minutes. Drain and turn into a greased baking dish. Pour the milk, egg, and cheese mixture over the pasta and mix well.

Bake in an oven preheated to 350F for 45 to 60 minutes, until the creamy mixture has set.

VARIATION Another, quicker dish is the same pasta tossed with melted b.u.t.ter and topped with plenty of crumbled feta cheese, and a generous amount of chopped flat-leaf parsley.

LITTLE CHEESE FILLO ROLLS Peynirli Sigara Boregi These dainty little rolls, or "cigars," make ideal appetizers and canapes. The cheese used is beyaz peynir, beyaz peynir, or "white cheese," which is salty and much like feta cheese. Use large sheets of fillo measuring about or "white cheese," which is salty and much like feta cheese. Use large sheets of fillo measuring about 19 19 inches inches [.dotmath] [.dotmath] 12 12 inches, cut into strips, but if the fillo sheets are too thin, the pastry is liable to tear and the filling to burst out during the cooking. In that case, use inches, cut into strips, but if the fillo sheets are too thin, the pastry is liable to tear and the filling to burst out during the cooking. In that case, use 2 2 strips together, brushing with b.u.t.ter in between. You will then need to double the number of sheets. I prefer using strips together, brushing with b.u.t.ter in between. You will then need to double the number of sheets. I prefer using only one strip if possible, as it makes for a lighter pastry. (See page only one strip if possible, as it makes for a lighter pastry. (See page 9 9 for information about fillo.) Serve the rolls hot. They can be made in advance and reheated. for information about fillo.) Serve the rolls hot. They can be made in advance and reheated.

MAKES 16 ROLLS 7 ounces feta cheese, mashed with a fork1 egg, lightly beaten3 tablespoons chopped mint or dill8 large sheets of fillo1 stick (8 tablespoons) b.u.t.ter, melted For the filling, mix the mashed feta with the egg and chopped mint or dill.

Take out the sheets of fillo only when you are ready to use them since they dry out quickly. Cut them into 4 rectangles measuring about 12 inches [.dotmath] 4 to 5 inches and put them in a pile on top of each other. Brush the top strip lightly with melted b.u.t.ter. Take a tablespoon of filling. Place it at one short end of the strip in a thin sausage shape along the edge, about inch from it and inch from the side edges. Roll up the fillo with the filling inside, like a cigar. Fold in the ends about one-third of the way along to trap the filling, and then continue to roll.

Do the same with the remaining strips of fillo and cheese filling. Place the cigars, seam side down, on a baking sheet and brush the tops with melted b.u.t.ter. Bake at 300F for 30 minutes, or until crisp and golden.