19. Turkey.

In choosing poultry, the age of the bird is the chief point to be attended to. An old turkey has rough and reddish legs; a young one smooth and black. Fresh killed, the eyes are full and clear, and the feet moist. When it has been kept too long, the parts about the vent have a greenish appearance.

20. Common Domestic Fowls,

when young, have the legs and combs smooth; when old these parts are rough, and on the breast long hairs are found when the feathers axe plucked off: these hairs must be removed by singeing. Fowls and chickens should be plump on the breast, fat on the back, and white-legged.

21. Geese.

The bills and feet are red when old, yellow when young. Fresh killed, the feet are pliable, but they get stiff when the birds are kept too long. Geese are called green when they are only two or three months old.

22. Ducks.

Choose them with supple feet and hard plump b.r.e.a.s.t.s. Tame ducks have yellow feet, wild ones red.

23. Pigeons

are very indifferent food when they are kept too long. Suppleness of the feet shows them to be young; the flesh is flaccid when they are getting bad from keeping. Tame pigeons are larger than wild pigeons, but not so large as the wood pigeon.

24. Hares and Rabbits

when old, have the haunches thick, the ears dry and tough, and the claws blunt and ragged. A young hare has claws smooth and sharp, ears that easily tear, and a narrow cleft in the lip. A leveret is distinguished from a hare by a k.n.o.b or small bone near the foot.

25. Partridges,

when young, have yellowish legs and dark-coloured bills. Old partridges are very indifferent eating.

26. Woodc.o.c.ks and Snipes,

when old, have the feet thick and hard; when these are soft and tender, they are both young and fresh killed. When their bills become moist, and their throats muddy, they have been too long killed.

(See FOOD IN SEASON, Pars. 30--42.)

27. Names and Situations of the Various Joints.

28. Meats.

In different parts of the kingdom the method of cutting up carcases varies. That which we describe below is the most general, and is known as the English method.

i. Beef.

Fore Quarter Fore rib (five ribs); middle rib (four ribs); chuck (three ribs).

Shoulder piece (top of fore leg); brisket (lower or belly part of the ribs); clod (fore shoulder blade); neck; shin (below the shoulder); cheek.

Hind Quarter. Sirloin; rump; aitch-bone these are the three divisions of the upper part of the quarter; b.u.t.tock and mouse-b.u.t.tock, which divide the thigh; veiny piece, joining the b.u.t.tock; thick flank and thin flank (belly pieces) and leg.

The sirloin and rump of both sides form a baron.

_Beef is in season all the year; best in winter._

[THE MISER FASTS WITH GREEDY MIND TO SPARE.]

ii. Mutton.

Shoulder; breast (the belly); over which are the loin (chump, or tail end): loin (best end): neck (best end); neck (scrag end); leg; haunch, or leg and chump end of loin; and head.

A chine is two necks; a saddle, two loins.

_Mutton is best in winter, spring, and autumn._

iii. Lamb

is cut into fore quarter and hind quarter; saddle; loin; neck; breast; leg; and shoulder.

_Gra.s.s lamb is in season from Easter to Michaelmas; house lamb from Christmas to Lady-day._

iv. Pork

is cut into leg, hand or shoulder; hind loin; fore loin; belly-part; spare-rib, or neck; and head.

_Pork is in season nearly all the year round, but is better relished in winter than in summer._

v. Veal

is cut into neck (scrag end); neck (best end); loin (best end); loin (chump, or tail end); fillet (upper part of hind leg); hind knuckle, which joins the fillet; knuckle of fore leg; blade (bone of shoulder); breast (best end); and breast (brisket end).

_Veal is always in season, but dear in winter and spring._

vi. Venison

is cut into haunch; neck; shoulder; and breast.

_Doe venison is best in January, October, November, and December, and buck venison in June, July, August, and September._

vii. Scottish Mode of Division.