1872. Materials used in Embroidery and Canvas Work.

The materials for canvas work and embroidery may be cla.s.sed under the names of wool, silk, chenille, and braid; beads, straw, and a variety of other fancy materials, are also brought into use. A knowledge of the proper mode of using them, and the varieties of each which are made, is one of the most useful things it is possible for the amateur needle-woman to become acquainted with. We will, therefore, take them in their order.

1873. Wool.

German wool (or Berlin wool, as it is commonly called) is the most beautiful material manufactured for canvas-work. The vast variety of shades, the exquisite tints produced, the softness and evenness of the fabric, are beyond all praise. We speak of Berlin wool _as it ought to be_; for no article is more frequently of inferior quality. From damp, or bad packing, or many other causes, it is frequently crushed and injured, and in that state is not fit to be used for good work. Berlin wool is supposed to be all dyed, as well as made, abroad; at present a large proportion is entirely produced in our own country, which is little, if at all, inferior to the foreign. Berlin wool is made only in two sizes, 4-thread and 8-thread; unless the latter is specified in directions, the other is always implied.

Berlin wools are either dyed in one colour, or in shades of the same colour, or (_very rarely_) in shades of several colours. Technically, a silk or wool dyed in shades of the same colour, going gradually from light to dark, and from dark to light again, is termed an _ombre_, or _shaded_ wool or silk, whereas _chine_ is the term employed when there are several _colours_ used. There are, also, what are called _short_ and _long_ shades; that is, in the former the entire shades, from the lightest to the lightest again, will occur within a short s.p.a.ce, a yard or so; whereas, in _long_ shades the gradation is much more gradually made.

We notice these apparently trifling differences that readers may comprehend the importance of obtaining precisely the proper materials for each design. If we prescribe a certain article, it is because _it_ and no other will give the effect. Transparent, white, or silver beads are usually worked with white silk, but clear gla.s.s beads, threaded on cerise silk, produce a peculiarly rich effect by the coloured silk shining through transparent gla.s.s. The silk used must be extremely fine, as the beads vary much in size. A change of material, which might appear of no consequence whatever, would completely spoil the effect of the design.

1874. Fleecy Wool.

Fleecy wool is the sort of wool used for jackets and other large articles. Some of the tints are quite as brilliant as those of Berlin wool. It is made in 3, 4, 6, 8, and 12 threads, and is much cheaper than German wool. It does very well for grounding large pieces of canvas work.

1875. Shetland Wool.

Shetland wool is very fine and soft, is much used, and prized for shawls and neckties and for veils.

1876. Eis Wool.

A pure German wool of silky brightness, is used for the same purpose as Shetland wool excepting for veils. It is also used instead of silk for embroidering on velvet, as tea cosies, &c.

1877. Andalusian Wool.

Andalusian wool is a medium wool, less thick than Berlin wool, is used for cuffs and shawls.

1878. Other kinds of Wool.

There are also other names given to wools by the vendors or manufacturers of them: for instance, "The Peac.o.c.k Wool" and "The Coral Wool" are trade marks, and not particular wools.

1879. Scotch Fingering Wool.

Scotch fingering wool is used for knitting stockings and socks, and gentlemen's kilt hose.

1880. Thin Lambs' Wool and Wheeling Yarn.

Scotch yarns, used princ.i.p.ally for children's socks and stockings.

1881. Merino Wool.

Merino wool is the produce of a Spanish breed of sheep. The wool was introduced into this country about the close of the last century.

George III. was a great patron of this breed. French Merino is made from this peculiarily soft wool; so also Berlin wool, used for canvas embroidery.

1882. Angola Wool.

The produce of an African breed of sheep; is a soft hairy wool. Is used for making Angola shawls and gloves, valued for their extreme softness and warmth. These were popular till the cotton manufacturers introduced a very poor imitation make entirely of cotton.

1883. Camel-hair Wool.

Camel-hair wool is the production of the llama, or al-lama, a native of South America. This ruminant animal resembles in its nature, but not in its form, a camel. The back and sides of the llama are clothed with fine long woolly hairs, becoming smooth, silky, and shining towards the tips, the general colours being of a uniform bright brown.

The native Indians use it in the manufacture of stuffs, ropes, bags, and mats.

1884. Alpaca.

Al-Paco produces the alpaca wool. This creature is also a species of camel, though different in shape. Cavier regarded the paco as a variety of the llama; so also the vicugua. The llama is generally used as a beast of burden, while the former are used chiefly for their flesh and wool.

1885. Yak Lace and Fringe.

This is said to be made from the tail hair of an animal resembling an ox, a horse, and sheep; the first for its shape, the next for its tail, and the third for its wool. The tail, under the Indian name of _Chowrie_, is often mounted in horns and silver, and used as a switch to keep off flies. The yak inhabits the coldest parts of Tibet, India.

1886. Silk.

This well known production of the silk-worm in its natural state, as reeled from the coc.o.o.n, is termed "raw silk;" and before this can be used for weaving it requires to be twisted, or, as it is technically termed, "thrown;" that is to say, it is not two threads twisted one over the other, but the single filament itself is twisted so as to render it firmer; this is termed "singles." The next process is termed "tram." This is two threads loosely twisted together. This usually const.i.tutes the "weft" silk, which is thrown by the shuttle across the long threads, or "warp," of the piece-silk.

1887. Organzine.

Organzine, or hard silk, generally const.i.tutes the "warp," or length of the silk. This is made by first twisting each individual thread of silk, and then two or more of the threads are twisted together by the "throwing" mill (throw one thread over the other). In this state it must be boiled, to discharge the gum which renders the silk hard to the touch, and unfit to receive the dye. It is now boiled in soap and water for four hours, and then boiled in clear water to discharge the soap; after which it is glossy, soft, and fit for wearing.

1888. Filoselle Silk.

Filoselle silk was formerly a "spun silk," and the product chiefly of the silkworm, which naturally eats its way through its coc.o.o.n. It is only comparatively of late years that this silk has been used. The short filaments are spun in the same way that cotton and wool are spun, and is afterwards woven. A great deal of this silk is used for stockings and socks, and for weaving in with wool-fabrics, but there is also another kind of Filoselle used in needlework. This is two-thread silk, or "tram." Eight or ten of these slightly twisted threads form a strand of silk, so that, according to the purpose required, one, two, or more threads of it can be used for embroidery.

This is glossy as satin.

1889. Floss Silk.

Floss silk consists of several filaments of untwisted silk sufficient to make a strand of silk. It is used for working on the surface of wool st.i.tches to heighten the effect and give brilliancy.

1890. Tusseh Silk.