1833. Instructions in Tatting, or Frivolite.

1834. Implements for Tatting.

The only necessary implements for tatting are a thin shuttle or short netting-needle, and a gilt pin and ring, united by a chain. The cotton used should be strong and soft. There are three available sizes, Nos.

1, 2, and 3. Attention should be paid to the manner of holding the hands, as on this depends the grace or awkwardness of the movement.

Fill the shuttle with the cotton (or silk) required, in the same manner as a netting needle. Hold the shuttle between the thumb and first and second fingers of the right hand, leaving about half a yard of cotton unwound. Take up the cotton, about three inches from the end, between the thumb and first finger of the left hand, and let the end fall in the palm of the hand; pa.s.s the cotton round the other fingers of the left hand (keeping them parted a little), and bring it again between the thumb and forefinger, thus making a circle round the extended fingers. There are only two st.i.tches in tatting, and they are usually done alternately; this is therefore termed a _double st.i.tch_.

1835. English St.i.tch.

The first st.i.tch is called the _English st.i.tch_, and made thus:--Let the thread between the right and left hands fall towards you; slip the shuttle under the thread between the first and second fingers; draw it out rather quickly, keeping it in a horizontal line with the left hand. You will find a slipping loop is formed on this cotton with that which went round the fingers. Hold the shuttle steadily, with the cotton stretched tightly out, and with the second finger of the left hand slip the loop thus made under the thumb.

1836. French St.i.tch.

The other st.i.tch is termed _French st.i.tch_; the only difference being, that instead of allowing the cotton to fall _towards_ you, and pa.s.sing the shuttle _downwards_, the cotton is thrown in a loop over the left hand, and the shuttle pa.s.sed under the thread between the first and second fingers _upwards_. The knot must be invariably formed by the thread which pa.s.ses round the fingers of the _left_ hand. If the operation is reversed, and the knot formed by the cotton connected with the shuttle, the loop will not draw up. This is occasioned by letting the cotton from the shuttle hang loosely instead of drawing it out and holding it tightly stretched. When any given number of these double st.i.tches are done, and drawn closely together, the st.i.tches are held between the first finger and thumb, and the other fingers are withdrawn from the circle of cotton, which is gradually diminished by drawing out the shuttle until the loop of tatting is nearly or entirely closed. The tatted loops should be quite close to each other, unless directions to the contrary are given.

1837. Ornamental Edging.

The pin is used in making an ornamental edge, something like purl edging, thus:--Slip the ring on the left-hand thumb, that the pin attached may be ready for use. After making the required number of double st.i.tches, twist the pin in the circle of cotton, and hold it between the forefinger and thumb, whilst making more double st.i.tches; repeat. The little loops thus formed are termed _picots._

1838. Trefoil Tatting.

This is done by drawing three loops up tightly, made close together, and then leaving a short s.p.a.ce before making more. The trefoil is sewed into shape afterwards with a needle.

1839. To Join Loops.

When two loops are to be connected, a _picot_ is made in the _first_, wherever the join is required. When you come to the corresponding part of the _second_ loop, draw the thread which goes round the fingers of the left hand through the _picot_ with a needle, pulling through a loop large enough to admit the shuttle. Slip this through, then draw the thread tight again over the fingers, and continue the work. In many patterns a needle is used to work over, in b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tch, the thread which pa.s.ses from one loop to another. A long needleful of the same cotton or silk used for the tatting is left at the beginning of the work, and a common needle used to b.u.t.tonhole over bars wherever they occur.

1840. Alternative Picots.

Picots are also sometimes made with the needle and cotton in working over these bars.

1841. Instructions in Knitting.

1842. Improvements in Process.

Although the art of knitting is known perhaps more generally than almost any other kind of fancy work, still as the knowledge is not universal, and there have been of late years great improvements in many of the processes, we hope that a short account of all the st.i.tches, and the elementary parts of the craft, will be welcomed by many of our friends--and most seriously would we recommend them to attain _perfection_ in this branch of work, because, above all others, it is a resource to those who, from weak eyes, are precluded from many kinds of industrial amus.e.m.e.nt, or who, as invalids, cannot bear the fatigue of more elaborate work. The fact is that knitting does not require eyesight at all; and a very little practice ought to enable any one to knit whilst reading, talking, or studying, quite as well as if the fingers were unemployed. It only requires that the fingers should be properly used, and that one should not be made to do the duty of another.

1843. Implements for Knitting.

These are rods or pins of ivory, bone, or steel. The latter are most commonly used, and should have tapered points, without the least _sharpness_ at the extremity.

1844. Casting On.

The first process in knitting is casting on. To effect this, hold the end of cotton between the first and second fingers of the left hand; bring it over the thumb and forefinger, and bend the latter to twist the cotton into a loop; bend the needle in the loop; hold the cotton attached to the reel between the third and little fingers of the right hand, and over the point of the forefinger; bring the thread round the needle by the slightest possible motion; bend the needle towards you, and tighten the loop on the left-hand finger, in letting it slip off to form the _first_ st.i.tch.

1845. Formation of St.i.tches.

Now take that needle with the loop on it in the left hand, and another in the right. Observe the position of the hands. The left hand needle is held between the thumb and the second finger, leaving the forefinger free, to aid in moving the points of the needles. This mode of using the forefinger, instead of employing it merely to hold the needle, is the great secret of being able to knit without looking at the work, for so extremely delicate is the sense of touch in this finger, that it will, after a little practice, enable you to tell the sort of st.i.tch coming next, in the finest material, so that knitting becomes merely mechanical. Insert the point in the loop, bringing it behind the other needle, slip the thread round it, bring the point in front, and transfer the loop to the left-hand needle without withdrawing it from the right hand. Repeat the process for any number of st.i.tches required.

1846. Plain Knitting.

Slip the point of the right-hand needle in a loop, bring the thread round it, and with the forefinger push the point of the needle off the loop so that the thread just twisted round forms a new one on the right hand.

1847. Purling.

The right-hand needle is slipped in the loop _in front of_ the left-hand one, and the thread, after pa.s.sing between the two, is brought round it; it is then worked as before. The thread is always brought forward before beginning a purled st.i.tch, unless particular directions to the contrary are given.

1848. Mode of making St.i.tches.

To make one, merely bring the thread in front before knitting, when, as it pa.s.ses over the needle, it makes a loop; to make two, three, or more, pa.s.s the thread _round the needle in addition_, once for 2, twice for 3, and so on.

1849. To Decrease.

Take one st.i.tch off without knitting; knit one, then slip the point of the left-hand needle in the unknitted st.i.tch and draw it over the other. It is marked in receipts d. To decrease 2 or more, slip 1, knit 2, 3, or more together, _as one_, and pa.s.s the slip st.i.tch over.

1850. How to Join a Round.

Four or five needles are used in round work, such as socks, stockings, &c. Cast on any given number of st.i.tches on one needle, then slip another needle in the last st.i.tch, before casting any on it; repeat for any number. When all are cast on, knit the first 2 st.i.tches off on to the end of the last needle. One needle is always left unused in casting on for a round.

1851. How to Join Toe of Sock, &c.

Divide all the st.i.tches on to two needles, hold both in the left hand, as if they were one, and in knitting take a loop off each one, which knit together.

1852. To Cast off.

Knit 2 st.i.tches; with the left-hand needle draw the first over the second; knit another; repeat. Observe that the row before the casting off should never be very tightly knitted.